Fox W.

Those are nice illustrations, and that is a good looking subframe!

Thanks, we'll get to the bottom of this I'm sure.

Welp, 22528668 does not appear to be quite right.. maybe it can work, but it is not the same as what is in there now.. it is shorter, without he big flared ends. It does look like the original is a two-piece system. Anyone changed these before and have pictures of what they look like out?

Just finished changing all bushings for front-sway bar. Harder than I am used to.. but then again what I am used to it mostly a Miata. On the Miata, everything is just daintier to work with. I've change my springs, mounts, struts and sway bars on it and everything just came off/on withe ease. The Reatta suspension however, some things feel like they may as well have just welded it together.. it's heavy-duty, harder to get in or out. This isn't a complaint however, It's just a heavy car.. I am impressed with how tight that front sway bar has to get torqued down. The bolts that hold the inner bushings (the ones going around the bar) will at first seem like it's an impossible fit. The bracket and bolts start very high, and you have to torque it down quite a ways as it forms/squishes the bushing. The end-links won't reach at first.. You really gotta play with it all for a long time.. mainly in my case I have my front jacked up, wheels off, and I had to use a bottle-jack to raise the control arm quite high and hit the top of the end-link bolt to try and get enough through at the bottom in order to thread the nut on. Was not easy.

It's hard to tell based on that one picture, but the new spacers are longer than the original. I could give measurements if you'd like.

Just making a post about the front sway bar end-links. I got the 545-1015 Raybestos Pro ones listed on the Reatta store, and just wanted to show they are a bit longer than the original. That being both the bolts as well as the spacer. I'm trying to picture, would this make it more or less stiff? Does it pre-load the bar more or less by increasing the length? It would cause the bar to be torqued downward less.

Cool.

Just to note, the GE 890 bulbs I had as stock are 540 lumens according to their spec sheet.

Hm I see what you mean.. http://www.opt-7.com/cree-v2-series-led-fog-light-replacement-bulbs/ Now I feel ripped off. I'll see eventually when my car is ready if what I have is good enough. To me it looks much brighter than factory as it is.. it almost over-powers the turn signal light, but the question is if the direction of the light is correct.

I saw that about the Teves car. I totally agree.. and it's good you have some 1627757 spares, because that means you can also work on matching a replacement, if you will. Also consider Smooth-on, you can cast it, and then make your own urethane version. I've done it before, it isn't very hard to get reasonable results even the first couple tries. I mainly just wanted to wrap up the matter of the location of 1627757 ; I realize this was likely redundant info that many knew. I had mine replaced with the restore (Yes I'm the crazy person that did restore a rusty beater... ok not too rusty and not beaten, but it was a daily, including NE Winters) The Reatta is a total survivor next to everything else I saw.. perhaps it is that electroplated primer dip they gave it.. but I'm amazed how minimal the rust was when we took everything apart.. and zero outside sheet-metal rust. No way I'm letting some rubber be the death of this thing. I have one of Daniel's as well (shown as #11, 1627769) ; works good. I think finding a compatible #30 should prove easy enough, and certainly making it. 1627757 on the other hand is a serious bushing, metal insert and takes a lot of wear.. Mine was nearly destroyed.. no other bushing on the car was nearly that bad.

I overhauled my A/C system in 2011, DYI job and it has been flawless since. If you need any help I'll do my best. If your system is already R134, then just go get yourself some UV dye and a R134 recharge kit. Total cost will be around $40 to $60. Also get a UV light, such as https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-TT-FL001-Flashlight-Blacklight-Ultraviolet/dp/B00RV8PREI/ref=zg_bs_6476726011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3EKJTRDF9CJ8DG5RKVD8 Follow the instructions on the recharge kit, bring your system up to nominal pressure. Then add the UV dye (usually just a 3-second injection) while the compressor is engaged.. All of this is done via the low-pressure fitting. Use/drive it around for awhile. Then check with the UV 'black-light' flashlight This will tell you where the leak is coming from. If you don't see anything (except the bits around the port you used to inject it) then check the evaporator by removing the control module (check this forum) and look inside the box with the UV light. If you are using R12, then take it to a pro I guess. Good luck.

I just checked, and as noted back in ( ) You can see Daniel did buy these and it didn't work. GM07-036 seems to be a accurate diagram from what I can physically see on our cars: On which, 1627757 is referred to as the 'BUSHING, RR SUSP SUPT' which matches my experience. If this is right, people want #30 and #11 ( 01628813 & 01627769 ) I just got under the car to check. It was a very hard camera angle without the rear lifted. Here is my best attempt to show.

Good stuff Kdirk. Sounds like what I did exactly to mine in 2012. It was during that experience that I had bought 1627757. ( I believe I bought it from Daniel. He had ordered a set for the rear-sway bar and it turned out to be wrong. I believe these were for the rear suspension cross member (cradle) to-frame bushings. Can you confirm?

Yeah that is what I thought, I remember buying these in the past.. I am going to say 88912731 and 22528668 are the same, and after market is *5298, since that has the greatest consensus and because the part seems like a single-piece from what I can see without taking it apart. It is then a bit of a mystery why GM is listing these two as fitting, I don't see where they would go: 22528801 22528799 Thanks!

Ran in to part confusion. GM Parts direct shows three different bushings fitting the 89 for the same diagram position: It is for part #5 on the below diagram. Part in person shown in red. The numbers are: 22528801 22528799 22528668 And their page shows all of this for #5: #5 22528799 Insulator Lower Control Arm Front Bushing 1ST $20.35 $12.99 #5 22528801 Insulator Lower Control Arm Front Bushing 2ND $9.92 $6.33 #5 22528799 Insulator Bushings INSULATOR; FRONT; BUICK; REATTA $20.35 $12.99 #5 22528801 Insulator Bushings INSULATOR; REAR $9.92 $6.33 #5 22528668 Bushings BUSHING The confusion for me is that in person there seems to be only a single bushing there. It seems to be part 22528668, which is the same as Moog K5298. I'm not sure where they are getting these other parts from, I don't see them. Does anyone know if that bushing on the 89 is a single-piece, or if it is two pieces? They list all of the above despite me specifying my specific year and model. 22528801 doesn't seem to match anything I see on the car. Thanks.

Thanks. I just finished the passenger-side one tonight. It felt like a lot of work. I'm thankful for my plastic-welder to help with the torqx screw receivers that break out from the plastic on the bottom side. But now it looks great.. no more yellow or haze. I haven't taken the car out yet to give a real test of the cornering light, I will let you know and try to take pictures.

I just asked Steele if they will consider it. I doubt it though.

Hm, this is a confusing one.. because in my journey of restoring the rear suspension, I found that despite it being listed as a sway-bar bushing (perhaps for other models) for our car, it is actually the rear suspension cross-member bushing. It's a pretty big one.. These pictures show the bushing, and where it attaches to the body.

Mostly bolts and the upper and lower leaf spring isolators. I'll remember better once I've sorted out my notes and taken a visual again.

I just got really lucky last week and nabbed a NOS driver-side door seal. Still has GM sticker on it. I can't resist buying any NOS rubber for a Reatta, even when I don't yet need it.

I broke my 6 engine-cradle bolts free, and was amazed to find they all came out clean with no rust other than a tad from the cage-nut. I had no problems.. took my time and went slow.. I got lucky that despite my car being from MA, the rust was very minimal. This is in prep. for removing my transmission to replace the main side seal. While there I will replace all engine/transmission mounts as well as the 6 cradle isolators. Also replacing output shaft seals, front sway bar bushings and anything else I find that needs be. Cleaned and polished turn-signal lenses. Cleaning out evaporator. Replacing engine and transmission oil pan seals Replacing fuel filter

Roger of Tucson, AZ had again supplied me with the above. I am trying to get back in to making some sort of write up to help with this, as a compliment to the write up for the front engine cradle mounts. However it's difficult as I was not able to find any new source for several of the parts, I had to settle for finding good used ones.

If you want amazing results, become skilled with a rotary polisher.. You can make it gleam. I still use random-orbital because I mostly do paint and I've never needed more cutting power.. https://www.amazon.com/POLISHFLEX-Compact-Variable-Rotary-Polisher/dp/B004XAN4M4/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1489370356&sr=1-6&keywords=polisher+rotary https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX4-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B003Z9VMX2/ref=pd_sim_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F8MPJZ4CZ8DYGJPPEFBW

I'm not really a red car kind of person, but I must say the Reatta is so striking in it.. Sometimes I wish mine was. I think my silver only really looks nice on cloudy days.. it looks deep then.

Thanks! Body shop did that.. and that was -after- I had melted it somewhat with chemicals, as noted above!