Fox W.

Set of two, like new, open box: Set of Two 2 Monroe 902965 Strut Cushion Mounts 90 91 Reatta Many Others | eBay

No takers so far, it is on Ebay now: Buick Reatta Driver Side Power Seat Assembly | eBay

Thanks for the replies. I will check with them if they ever even removed the hood and if not then how or why would this have changed.. They did notice and mentioned 'play' in one hinge when I asked. They are a really good shop despite this mistake. I will take pictures so you all can see what I mean.

Condition: Tan trim in fair to poor condition with one broken plastic part as shown. Some parts have light oxidation. All motors connected to a car and tested working good. Item is pretty heavy. Easy to install. Desc: All tested and working great! This is a great item for someone who has a burned out seat motor (there are 3) or bad cable. See pictures. Installation: "Be sure to put your seat in the full "up" (not forward) position, and adjust the back and forth to the midway position. Do the back and forth adjustment after you've removed the four bolts that attach it to the floor. Reach underneath; you will feel a black tab on one side of the plug. push it away from you to release the plug. If you have a sixteen way seat, pull the tabs back on either side of the white plug." I paid $85, but I'll accept any reasonable offer, thanks.

Hi, after having my car restored I am finding that the hood does not rest the same way. One side is more flush/even slightly lower than the fender, and the other side (driver) is higher than the fender, enough so that it is very noticeable to me as flaw. The body shop said something to the extent that they noticed one of the hinges had 'play' in it. What I find when closing the hood slowly is that the passenger side where it sits lower collapses more, where the driver-side does not fully I think. When it is closed you can push down on the driver-side hood edge near the windshield where it is highest and feel the play I think they meant. The thing is I don't really see how these hinges could go bad like that, does anyone here have actual experience with this and know if the issue is really part(s) or is it adjustment somehow? The bolts that connect the hinge to the hood are unable to make nearly enough alteration to fix this. Simple stuff like that has been tried. Thanks.

I discovered a great replacement for these hex console screws is Dorman 45862.

I've had additional experience with Roger since, he sent me fantastic condition parts.

It is off getting the alignment today and has been running great. I wanted to note something about those Bosch IIIs injectors ; They work great ( I cannot say they are really noticeably better) but will throw off the fuel consumption calculations. For this reason I may have my originals cleaned up/serviced and install them again. Unless I can find out the exact delta of the pulse width/curve and the volume ratio per-pulse, I could not know how to have the calculation values updated for the new injectors. I also do not know if the consumption program is calculated on the EMC or the CRTC. If it were on the CRTC then forget it. Which brings me to another random note.. Many years ago (like 2004-2005) I used to talk about wanting to reverse engineer the CRTC, well it is time to admit that doesn't look likely.. I know big surprise huh.. Sorry. I've got a spare of one and low-level hardware guys I've shown it to say it would be a hell of a challenge.

I do my best with all the people here but I am more of a rural sort. The taxes and other associated costs are offset for me by the greater ratio of pay compared to other places I've been. It is real estate that is out of reach, though I have no interest in buying here anyway. The weather is usually what many may find to be near perfect, but I'm one of the few here who greatly prefer a mix of cloudy and rainy days. Most of the time it is clear, dry and warm though.

The texture is indeed good but unfortunately the light-gray one I ordered is too light for the 88-89 Reatta grey interior. It needs to be darker and slightly more on the blue scale. Maybe it would match the lighter gray used later on.

I'll be posting pictures here of her once we have a clear day and it is washed.

This time I had no trouble for some reason, it was even cold and I didn't have a chance to do any penetrating lube. Anyway, new O2 sensor in, computers reset and now it runs like a champ. Phew! It goes in to closed loop right as soon as it should and the values for the sensors are all normal. During my drive the idle and everything were normal for a recently reset ECU. Now I can get on with the other details like registration/smog, alignment. (The alignment is severely off due to lower front control arm swaps.) This was because the brake reaction rods were rusted out between the bushings. My sincere thanks to all of you for taking interest and for the help.

I'll try to answer some of that tonight after I look at the data. Any advice on changing the O2 sensor? I tried weeks ago but was unable to get it to budge. I was trying it from the top-side using this: Powerbuilt 648691 Oxygen Sensor Offset Puller : Amazon.com : Automotive

That is encouraging. Tonight I drove her around. The result is that the core engine health feels pretty restored. The troubles though are the idle still hunting around, between as low as 400 up to 700. The exhaust also smells strong. I got E044 twice, which I think means the O2 thinks it is lean..? It is possible the O2 sensor is messed up from the previous condition, or something else minor has a problem still. It is progress.

Of course, I will update this thread to the end. Last night was the first new progress where I finally had all my parts and reassembled everything. I had to use a ton of RTV to compensate for that broken valve cover bolt so I am waiting 24 hours for that to all cure before I will run it. This morning though, about 30min ago I did a compression check on #2 ; the result was disappointing, it gets about 100psi. This bothers me indeed. I have little choice but to just run it and drive it for a few days and hope something improves if the valve is possibly wedged with carbon or anything, I don't know. But 50psi down from the others is a lot. This test was done wet so I don't think it's the rings.

But it makes the car just a little more 80's and I love that.

Also I didn't mount it in the rear, and I am betting the engines' electrical field will throw it off, it is likely why they had it mounted back there in the Riviera. I'll move it to the rear if so.

I did this tonight, but found wiring color-code discrepancies between what the electrical manual says and the actual wires. (These were not things mentioned in this thread anyway.) The only things I wanted to make note on listed here are the blue vs. beige termination stay and data wires: For both my harness and my spare CPS that has a connector with cut wires, the blue side is the one that contains a #16 wire that gives + 7v ; the beige (actually gray on both of mine) side is around half populated. The compass module I got used included the factory connector with cut wires, and as shown in the electrical shop manual only pin #2 is used to connect to the BCM (or ALDC as a shortcut in this case, it is all the same UART), so only 1 data wire is needed. While #1 has a pin on the module end, the factory harness only connects numbers 2, 3 and 4. Data, 7V, ground. I tested it all by rotating the module around by hand and it works good.

Good to know. I could only find the L26 version that also works on the LN3: Engine Camshaft & Valve Rocker Cover. BOLT. WASHER. # 24502164, 25530330, 25534746 Comes as a pack of 5 for about $20.

Oh and does anyone know where I can get replacement bolts? I looked in lots of places with no luck. Generic ones wouldn't include the washer that integrates in to and insert around the bolt.

Unfortunately it was already below the level of the hole, making it especially difficult.

I will check if others are bent. I put the new rod in after freeing the valve and turned the engine manually a few cycles, the valve opened normally now. I'm waiting on a couple little parts and also dealing with a broken valve cover bolt that is in the head. It was like that before I opened it, which explained the massive amount of RTV sealant in that area.. it is at a corner, so not as easy to compensate for.. I'd really like to reverse that bolt out, but it won't be easy. I tried drilling it but the steel is too hard. If I don't want to remove the head I may have to just do the previous 'fix' again. (lots of goo)

Awesome, thanks.

Anyone sure what the factory push rod length is? Amazon comes up with 'Sealed Power' ones that are all a bit different.

I completely agree and as I was falling to sleep last night I thought to myself about you saying that earlier regarding air not getting in. I guess it was not intuitive to me because I didn't know there would be that much of a vacuum in there that it couldn't make pressure still.