Fox W.

Jacobs makes both types, they make upgrades for Delco type, and upgrades for the magnavox type. As I mentioned before I converted to delco coils 7 years ago, so the replacements I got from jacobs are the delco type, 45k volt. "Jacobs 321411 - AC Delco Style."

Alright I'll try.

I'll try to play around with it in a bit in that manner, and the wires are completely new 8.5mm MSD wires, plus I have the previous set which were in good shape still that I also have been able to test with. The fact that none of the ignition alterations I've made (New plugs, new wires, new Jacobs coils, and ICM) caused any difference at all makes me feel I've still missed the mark somewhere.

I know it does, yet everything is new and wired right, so I am stuck still with what is wrong. Remember I've tested every coil. The plugs are Rapidfire #14s, based on your other tread suggestions. I did not re-gap them, I thought I read they were gapped correctly already at .060. I haven't had a chance to do that yet, sorry.

Looks really great. I just had a Reatta restoration finished, and yours makes me wish my car was red. Mine is silver, and I didn't want to pay to change it. Not that silver is bad, I just prefer black or red.

Yeah I just restarted it and it is idling ok now, I think it was my error for not first resetting the ECU after these different injectors. My bad. Overall it revs better than when I started and idles with less pulse, even if it hunts a bit more. But the issue isn't better under load. I just removed 3 plugs, #1, #2, and #4. 1 and 4 both looked the same, kinda black but dry. Wiping them took off some ash but they were still black, except where they arc is clean. #2 which was the wet one when I did the plugs was only a tad damp with black oily stuff, very slight, and when I wiped it off it looked cleaner than the other two had then. I also notice when unplugging each injector, the idle and smoothness suffers, except for #2 injector, which has nearly no change. I checked the voltages on several injector connectors including #2 and they all read about 11.64v. Again everything is wired right and #2 tested normal for spark. Next I will do the snapshot and OBD stuff. Note that the black plugs is maybe from all the injector port cleaning I did, lots of ash and grime from the walls I wire brushed.. It really needs a good run on the high way I imagine.

Actually I noticed it isn't as stable with idle now, in fact it seems like it is hunting a lot and is prone to stalling now without throttle. I reset the ECM and that somewhat improved it, I was thinking maybe it needed to learn something a bit different due to a change in injectors? I don't know, I am getting beyond my experience here. I just checked the fuel pressure under load and found that at idle it is about 38psi, and under load it is about 42psi, very consistently so. (This was tested with brakes on, in reverse, 35% throttle for 4 - 5 second tests.) I also tested the coils under load it they looked consistent and normal. Also I found that with the MAF unplugged it is unable to idle. I can restart it over and over and hold it running with throttle, but it won't idle.

Thanks BJM, I will certainly be doing as you say next. Update: New Bosch III fuel injectors installed, zero change/improvement.

I shouldn't continue this tangent without first refreshing myself very well on all that has been posted about it over the years. If I get serious I will do obsessive research and then ask questions, or as I encounter issues.. I've been without my Reatta long enough that I don't want to start something else that will give it down time. I just know my goal based on personality would be to preserve as much that is original as possible, putting a lower priority on the performance gain itself. Thanks.

Oh yes I remember following all of F14CRAZY's impressive work. He seems to have more time than I do, all that custom work to do a 6-speed. Maybe I could just pay him or someone to do mine.

*Chuckles* I really don't want to go down this road, but it has been in the back of my mind for years. I am soo busy these days that I just know it would take me forever. But I admit a part of me would love to try the result. I guess now as the car is in such nice shape I feel more willing to make such edits. Though I don't want to put such stress on old parts or the transmission, she is 160k old.

Well said. I was actually oblivious that there was so much drama going on until I saw this thread. I've heard of some things but I figured they were just bickering behind backs and outside of the forum, and I felt way too disconnected from it to even understand. I'm mostly posting to say that it is a shame some are encountering issues like that, because I know there are lots of really great people here with a wealth of information who are generous with their time. I hope we do not lose too much cohesion over time.

Off topic, but is this all the major hardware one needs for our LN3 to supercharge it? 3800 supercharger Complete | eBay

6 Gen 3 Bosch injectors on the way, with EV1 connectors. Welcome to FuelInjectorConnection.com

They are running beside it very freely, no pinching. I've followed them and redone them so much now between the plugs, wires and coils. If I am following those shown numbers then I shouldn't be consistently making the same error that many times. Also this issue was happening in the identical way before I touched it, and the wires were in their 'trained' position still, didn't look like anyone touched it at the body shop. Thanks.

Fuel rail off, injectors removed. Waiting for replacements to come in. I believe they will be Bosch type III injectors, which it seems will work on the LN3. Anyone have info on that?

Was the picture I attached which showed my wiring correct?

Hi Padgett, no K&N for me, just generic STP or FRAM type stuff.

Yeah based on what you said it is behaving correctly. It blips higher when the engine throttle is blipped, and it very stable otherwise overall.

Thanks for all the help, here are the latest updates: I got a FI pressure gauge and tested it at the fuel rail, it shows between 36 to 42, mostly holding around 40. I also got a coil tester and now can see for sure that all the coils are firing and look identical to each other. So now it seems I am on to injectors, at least one of them. Seem reasonable?

Should I be testing on the fuel rail, or do I test under the car at the input to the filter? I suppose I should also remove the regulator on the return to see if there is clogging evidence. My fuel lines are a bit rusty in the back at the tank. The body shop was going to replace them but couldn't get a specialist that was confident they could do the fittings, so they left it so not to risk putting the car in a non-running state.

I'd like to also note that it does not surge or buck, it is actually pretty consistent and stable in its current weak and somewhat shuddery state.

Yeah at this point fuel seems likely seeing as I had the tank swapped. The pump is new'ish and AC Delco, but I do not yet know the status of the strainer or filter, so that is next. Too bad I don't have a pressure gauge on hand yet.

Yeah I was looking that over last night, I'll get to that next.

I replaced the ICM with my spare I had, zero change. Only new thing I have to note is that I've noticed if I give it a surge of throttle it will sometimes want to die after, it has twice. However most of the time it compensates. I just took it out after doing the ICM swap and it was the same deal, very weak with a stutter/shudder when you try to accelerate.