Fox W.

I did the tap test. How much is a MAF? They don't look like much $ on Ebay at least. The wires alone were $100, and everything I did in the past year was 11k, so at this point nothing feels expensive. And no one tell me I could have gotten a minty for that, I know. It isn't the point. I already have a spare ICM on hand as I mentioned earlier. Thanks.

Maybe, I'll likely try other things first since the car without a muffler was flowing so well, was loud and had lots of output. It also has lots of output now withe the new muffler. The car runs poorly even at idle when it doesn't need as much throughput as it needed when I had it at 75Mph.

Just to be more paranoid, here is picture of my car with what I think is correct and as it is wired now. As I understand, the module has its 3 banks of coils and each coil fires two plugs at once. The lowest bank fires 1,4 ; mid fires 2,5 ; top fires 3,6.

Kdirk: Yeah that was the first stuff I checked before touching anything in case the shop touched it, and I used the injector numbers. My engine cover is always off so they are exposed and easy to see already. It was correct. When I replaced the wires I did so one by one in the exact manner the previous ones were connected, and used the injector numbers as my paranoid cross-check. The only thing I did not do was replace the ignition control module, and I do have a spare one on hand, but I really have my doubts. --- Aside from checking fuel pressure and replacing the O2 sensor yet, I think it is important for me to reinforce a few things regarding ignition: This issue occurred before I touched anything at all, it occurred the moment I drove it away from the body shop after it had mostly sat for the past 8 months. ; After I made the listed changes the issue is identical still. I will not switch back to the Magnavox coils (If I even had them still) because I made that swap 7 years ago and had zero issues with the Delco coils/module since. I changed the coils because I happened to have 3 new Jacobs coils that are the same but a bit stronger than the Delco ones. I did this because ignition sounds like the most obvious thing and so it was worth a try. I always cleaned my IAC regularly, and this issue goes well beyond an idle issue, would that really have the ability to cause this much trouble? The car is such that if you floor it while at 35Mph it will not even downshift because there isn't enough power/vacuum to get the transmission to do so. I do appreciate the ideas, and I will replace the O2 sensor, I have 2 new Bosch spares on hand. I hear that unplugging the MAF will make it go in to limp mode, but for me it made it stall entirely. For what that is worth. I forgot to mention I also replaced the air filter first thing, since who knows how much body shop dust may have been in there.

*This issue is resolved. The main problem was a broken intake valve push-rod for Cyl. #2. Freeing the valve and replacing the rod worked out. o2 sensor also ended up needing replacement, I think the damage to that was secondary to the first issue though.* Hi all. A restoration project that kept the car away from me for 8 months is complete. However now I am dealing with an engine problem. When I first took the car it had no muffler, so I didn't drive hard or pay much mind to anything but the noise. After I got that taken care of I could clearly now realize it has a problem. The symptoms are: Idle that is fairly even but pulsing like a boat engine, sorta. (It makes the car vibrate and shake a little.) Main issue is that throttle in neutral and especially under load gets bogged down/shudders; under load it has very poor power. I was able to get on a high way and maintain a tested speed of 75Mph just fine, but getting there takes time and throttle seems to do little after maybe 40%, as though there is not enough fuel. Exhaust seems a bit stronger than usual, but not visible. What it does not do: Has no trouble starting, starts perfectly. Does not diesel when shutting off, shuts off instantly, clean and quick. What I have done so far which has made zero change/improvement (some of this was stuff I was happy to do regardless) Model is 1989: Filled fuel tank to full. New air filter Replaced plugs. Replaced wires. Replaced coils. (I use the later Delco coils, not Magnavox.) Swapped ICM with a used spare I had. Made no change at all. Cleaned MAF Did some seafoam through the intake Checked all vacuum hoses that I could find Listened to each injector with a stethoscope to confirm proper open/close clicking. There are no codes. ; I have tried driving it for a bit but nothing improves. My clues: Plug #2 was wet and fouled looking, other 5 looked normal; have not rechecked since new plugs. ; Fuel tank has been replaced at the shop with a used original that was very clean, and they cleaned it out with gas. Yet possibly fuel delivery issue based on how it feels. Would a lack of fuel behave like that? Perhaps fuel filter next? How can one do a volume test on these modern cars? (Since it doesn't run the pump non-stop until the engine is running.) Thanks guys for any ideas.

I got this done by Auto & Truck Bumpers ; they have tanks for anodizing them. They stripped, polished and anodized them, but it cost me a lot, $550 each. They look factory new again though. I also had my wheels done, they were resurfaced and then put on a lathe to have the original brushed pattern. They were then clear coated. The result again is like the bumpers in that they look original. Cost is higher though than just polishing. It is more work to resurface, re-pattern and then recoat than it is to just resurface. Re-anodizing the bumpers after they are polished is more expensive than just polishing, but original appearance appealed to me.

Thanks everyone for letting me know that the original was shiny/gloss finish. I respect the opinion that matching color is a cleaner and a more modern look, but I guess my brain is weird because I -really- like contrasts, hard angles, lines and the definition it gives. So the 80's look works for me.. (As well as all older styles where the car looked like it had many components (bumpers, trim, chrome, harder lines that metal gave us) rather than a seamless composite form. I think the DeLorean is gorgeous, as an example. I would have been happy with an interior dash on a car that is as busy as an aircraft, (be it glass cockpit or not.) Anyway, thanks again.

Hi Daves89, do you know what the additive was by chance? Thanks.

Hi again, my car is in the home stretch of a restoration and now we are focused on the moulding that wraps around the center of the car. I wish it to be painted since it doesn't look nearly as nice as the rest of the car now. They didn't want to touch it because they thought it was solid black plastic and that paint would make it more fragile than the factory finish, but I am mostly certain that I was right when I pointed out that it is painted, and the edges show that underneath the color of the plastic is similar to the composite fenders.. yellowy/tan. If I am right about the above (plus they were offered as being painted in the body color, not just black) then what is the original finish like? (How matte or glossy.) Mine have always been rather glossy and smooth black. The body shop assumed the original was more matte, like rubber ones would be. Thanks!

I appreciate that, this week will be far too busy for me with work until maybe the weekend, but they may need to do them before then. I just have to see how it goes this week first, but I'll message you otherwise. Thank you again.

Mine certainly was not, it was tape and not even symmetrical on both sides of the car. Yet it still looked fine to me in regards to improving the lines of the car. So I am not worried. I figure on the forum here that people have access to cars they are sure enough have the original paint and pinstripe, and we can between them despite any delta figure roughly what the numbers are, just so we can have some guideline to write down. From there he/she is welcome to artistic liberty.

My guy is a woman. She is a specialist who comes in to the independent body shop who just does hand panting of such things as pinstripe. I don't expect perfection, I just want to at least supply her with images and numbers. What matters most to me are the breaks and merge points being the right lengths. I just don't want a continuous stripe.

That is very helpful for my missing data. Can you confirm about the space? It appears slightly wider than the lower 1/16 stripe.

Hello, the Reatta I have is in the final stage of its restoration and we are about ready to have the pinstripe painted back on. Mine had been aftermarket tape, and was done wrong, so I never had a reference. Below is the information I have for the person to paint it, and I just wanted to do a final check on here that I am not missing anything. Below the details are also my reference pictures, any more pictures of the factory work would be highly appreciated! 1) factory stripes were painted only; no tape. 2) the stripe size is 5/16", with the larger stripe on the top. 3) the stripes merge together toward each end. this merge section (where the stripes are together) is 3" long at all four ends. 4) the front section (fender and door) runs from 1" from the front of the fender tip, and runs 17.5 inches onto the front of the door. 5) the rear section covers a part on the rear of the door, onto the quarter panel, trunk, and around the other side. the distance on the rear section of the door is 9 1/4".

As part of my restoration I too am about to have the bumpers done. I have shops available to me offering everything, including to strip polish and re-anodize them as the factory had. The thing is I haven't decided which coating I would like best based on a combination of longevity and looking close to original. I also am not certain how to describe the original polish level because I have never seen a like-new Reatta bumper. I wish I could see what clear-powder coating looks like, as it seems like a good modern alternative but even I wouldn't want them to look -too- satin. More on that preference is: If wanted them to look 'too nice' I could just chrome them, but not everyone thinks shinier is nicer. (For instance I personally have a preference for brushed-metals over something that to me has too much 'bling.') I have this thing where if I see lots of super shiny stuff it can look a bit chintzy to me in some cases. (Depends on what it is. Obviously though many people out there love it, I see lots of cars around here with blindingly shiny wheels, and as much other shiny stuff as they could get on it.) But since the amount of metal showing on the bumpers is really minor, who knows, maybe I'd like them chrome. Anyone tried that? Also I will want to restore the wheels, so I ask are they originally brushed or perhaps etched? I have a feeling that having a shop make them look like mirrors (not at all my thing) would be easier than making them look factory again, since doing so would be a second process after they managed to bring the metal down even and polished, they then would have to do that brushed-like pattern I see that runs circularly throughout the entire wheel. This makes me think it may be hard to find a shop that does that. Let me know if anyone here has dealt with these making these look original. Thanks!

Does anyone know a source for new front lower control arms? Parts 22527859 & 22527858 ; These have the bushings, joint and 'break reaction rod' on them. Thanks.

Good news, mystery is mostly solved on that 17981778 part shown above. Roger with reattas.com has checked all 4 years of several Reattas and found that part is not applicable to our car. He found it only on some Riviera's, seemingly only the ones equipped with air-ride. So now I know it isn't relevant to the Reatta.. Since the diagram is a bit generic between those two platforms it is inevitable that a couple things here and there will be like this. Thanks.

I managed to get just about everything I needed. The only part that I cannot find, and seems to have vanished during disassembly was this part: 17981778 BUMPER,RR SPR(1986-90)

My recent experience with Roger of Reattas.com was excellent. Roger pulled everything (not easy stuff) I needed in a day and then shipped it all the next day. He was very friendly and easy going, his prices were more than fair.

Well I think we can conclude then that of the inexpensive mufflers that the Walker 18240 is one way to go.

Thanks. I just got a time frame update to when I need things available for the shop to re-assemble stuff, and I am short on time. I don't have much choice that if I don't hear back by late tomorrow'ish I'm going to put another order in that includes these. If you do get a chance to sell them to me though, a picture would be most appreciated so I can be sure they look about right for what I hope they are. Thanks again.

http://forums.aaca.org/members/fox-w-/albums/suspension/ I'll be uploading images and diagrams to the above that I hope will make it a little easier for others to spend less time locating part numbers and sources for common suspension replacement parts. Not much there yet but more to come.

From what I have seen, part 1627757 is #28 on the GM07-036 diagram, which appears to be the two large bushings for bolting two points of the whole rear suspension 'support' to the chassis. If I am right then I need a set, and I would buy them from you if you have no need. Let me know please! Image shows where I think it goes:

Sorry about that, I didn't know '88 had different mounts.

Attached shows the mounts and their GM part numbers. I have found OEM for all of them but they are very expensive. Looking at the anchor site it seems: Anchor 2691 = #20 ( 01646517 ) Anchor 2779 = #26 ( 17996396 ) Anchor 2943 = #13 ( 17998659 ) And of course Anchor 2662 is #4 Another post said that 17998659 had been made by LORD Corp. who makes really good stuff.. I doubt the after-market ones are so nice as the original had been. However I see OEM prices at over $500 for that one now.