fuel pump :(

[Guest Recian]

Well it's always been in the back of my mind as a common issue and the only thing I havent replaced. The reatta fuel pump. It went out on me today going down the highway on the way home. I was going and it just died, lost all pressure. It cranks but wont start. I have no fuel pressure and fuses are all ok. Im hoping it doesnt run through those damned floor splices. I was on a back road with no light or anything and i just happened to stop at the one place in the 5 miles that had a light. Anyone have any advice on replacement? It seems all i can find is generic aftermarket kits for replacement of the pump ranging from $27 to $75 depending on brand.

Edited February 28, 2012 by Recian (see edit history)

[handmedownreatta]

isn't there a fuel pump relay?

[NCReatta]

isn't there a fuel pump relay?

On the firewall I believe. Double check that (it's the one closest to the brake pump AFAIR), and make sure it didn't fall down in the exhaust manifold.

[KDirk]

Recian,

I am starting to feel genuinely bad for you with this car. The CRT, sunroof and the fuel pump (maybe) in under a week? Those on top of all the other issues you've been ironing out here the last few months. You are a real trooper, and I admire your perseverance. I don't think I could do it, I'd probably have ghost-ridden it into a wall by now. Ok, probably not, but I would likely have parted it out in frustration.

Keep up the good fight.

KDirk

[Guest Recian]

i cant afford buying a reatta worth fixing to put all my car's parts into lol One day i'll be done with it. Im in the process of buying a cheap small truck. Im honestly ready to get the 94 toyota beater truck so i can drive it more often. It's never let me or my bro down and gets 25+ mpg. But to be honest as I stare out the front door at the car for the first time I have no desire to fix it. I don't hate the car or want to get rid of it I just don't want to fix it.

Edited February 28, 2012 by Recian (see edit history)

[Guest Recian]

The fsm doesn't say which relay is the pump. I have 2.. I thought there were 3. There's 3 retaining tabs for relays. There's no relay closest to the pass. Side. Also I found theres a pump test connector under the air box I could try.

[2seater]

+12v to the green connector will tell you if the pump will run or not. If not, it's almost surely the pump. I installed a Walbro many years ago and it has been trouble free. Eliminate the pulsator that sits above the pump in the tank and install a short length of hose. Most kits come with the piece of hose. There are good GM replacements as well if you desire to stay GM, but if you are doing the supercharger install, go with the pump for the S/C cars. The Walbro, either the 190 liter of 240 liter are already an upgrade. As sad and disheartening as it is to have this happen, it is better now. Fuel failure on a boosted engine can be very damaging.

[Guest Recian]

My brother has a walboro fuel pump that is new he's not doing anything with. I may try to get it. It was gona go in his boosted eclipse so it should suffice. I'm still unsure about the relay situation atm. I could swear there were 3 on the firewall. The one farthest from the teves is gone but theres a retaining tab for a relay. I just glanced this morning. Didn't have time to dig into it.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

Just a suggestion. Get a pump out of a 9390 s10 blazer with the 4.3 bin code w. It will work with the stock setup and has the correct pressure for the supercharged set up. Plusses it is a direct fit.

[2seater]

Mine has three tabs and two relays also. Probably for an option I don't have, or, normal GM practice to have one assembly for more than one car line?

[Guest Recian]

What's the second relay for? Fuel pump and what else?

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

80s have three relays on the firewall, 90 has two, 91 none?

In 90 the fuel pump relay was relocated to the interior fuse/relay block.

[Guest Recian]

yep got it. Mine was tied above the relay bracket since it fell in the past. I have 12v to the pink. I took that 12v and shorted it (removing the ECM and making an all time 12v to the pump. Still nothing. I lifted the rear end and put stands, slid up underneath and behold the connector is easy to access and when removed it drops far enough to probe. I have 12v at the grey going to the pump and the black/white ground is good. I checked continuity across the 2 wires to the fuel pump pigtail and i've got 28.4 ohms. I was like hmm that's wierd but with power/ground applied it doesnt pump so the pump is fried. The electronics are still good but the mechanical pump portion is either clogged or broken.

[Guest Recian]

so it's decision time. My bro has this pump. HFP-342

HFP 255LPH Fuel Pump Acura CL 1997 - 2003

This company lists the reatta as HFP-343

HFP 255LPH Fuel Pump Buick Reatta 1988 - 1991

Getting this pump from my bro would be cheaper. It's never been used. This company says theyre not as loud as walboros. I dont want loud. I like quiet. Could the 342 work in the reatta? Seeing as the vortec 4.3 is a stock pump I may try finding one of those like daniel mentioned. On that note do you have a p/n for an aftermarket application daniel? the 92 s10 blazer 4.3 lists a W vin and offers a bosch and airtex. I've never had any luck with airtex fuel pumps, they last a year, 2 at most. Most of the electronics on the reatta have a bosch stamp on them somewhere and theyre doing ok.

Edited February 29, 2012 by Recian (see edit history)

[Guest dpannell]

Recian.... FWIW- I had two instances early in my Reatta ownership where the fuel pump connector just forward of the gas tank caused my pump to "just stop". Figured I would mention it as a source to check power at look for corrosion. I wouldn't hesitate to change the pump out though as it brings peace of mind on long trips. Dave

[Guest Recian]

Forward or rear? I found my pump connector where I took my readings but it was attatched to the body behind the tank. In front of the tank is the exhaust and shields.

[harry yarnell]

It's in the rear.

[padgett]

Once I bought something other than a new ACDelco fuel pump. Won't do it again.

[Guest Recian]

Is like to stick with acdelco if possible. I've been looking hard at multiple sources. From what i can find the reatta and 4.3L vortec pumps are the same but have alternate p/ns. Could be due to the exess pressure. Only one auto store lists an ACDelco brand pump and it says that particular pump works for both the reatta and the 92 blazer 4.3L vortec. If it comes down to it, I may just get a reatta pump for now until Im ready to do the s/c swap. Being my only car i cant leave it down too long.

Edited March 1, 2012 by Recian (see edit history)

[SeanR]

Here's another thing to be aware of!!! Fiero owners replacing fuel pumps have discovered the rubber connecting hose is not externally treated to be submersed in gasoline so it turns to gooey rubber and bursts within a short amount of time, resulting in replacing twice.

This thread discussed why the hose will burst and what kind to buy. I'm assuming all AC Delco pumps use this short 2" rubber hose inside the tank.

New Fuel Pump: What kind of connecting hose? - Pennock's Fiero Forum

[padgett]

a) never had a problem with an AC-Delco pump or the parts kit.

b)there are at least two different pumps used in the Reatta alone, the difference is in the end wher the sock attaches, AFAIR one is round and the other more triangular but there is an opening in the end of the holder that only fits one or the other. May be able to force it.

[Barney Eaton]

My fuel pump experience on a friends Reatta.

First it was running poorly and we determined it was the pump.

Pulled the tank, you need to disconnect the sway bar for clearance.

It had bad rust, which probably caused the pump to fail, put in cheap pump and it lasted about 3 weeks (and was noisy) pulled tank, more rust.

This time found a good tank, and I believe a Carter fuel pump. Everything is good for about 3 years.

[padgett]

Agree, have to let the rear sway bar swing (one bolt on each control arm). Also same reason I use only Delco fuelp pumps - had a cheap one do the same thing.

Do rinse tanks but baffles make it hard to do well, also sweep inside (can reach arm in) with a really good magnet.

[Guest Recian]

I ordered a bosch pump today. It was the only name brand pump available I recognize and it wasnt the most expensive but it was far from the cheapest too. I also ordered a new strap kit. My straps were in rough shape and i dnt trust them to re-attatch the tank. Unfortunately I couldnt lift the car high enough off the ground so I bent up the sending unit a bit when I took it out. I'll try to straighten it up when I re-install everything. All in all the removal process was pretty easy. Took me less than an hour in the yard. If it has to come out again i'll do it at work so I can lower the tank straight down and use air tools. That's why the sending unit got bent, i slid the tank to the side so I could get to the locking ring which kept it from lifting straight up due to it's awkward lines (which are rusted to my fuel lines so i dont wana disconnect them)

[padgett]

It is sooo nice not to have to deal with rust. Have almost forgotten what it was like.

[SeanR]

Can someone confirm if their is indeed a rubber connecting hose that gets immersed inside the tank? I would hate for him to have to replace it twice due to improper rubber hose material.

[Guest Recian]

yeah it's wierd my car is pretty clean but it's like the ass end sat in the ocean. From the fuel tank back it's got some bad rust but it's all on the subframe and gas tank, the body only has light white corrosion which im going to take care of. Also i yanked the tank last night. The reatta uses a slide-type connector with rubber insert. Idk how to explain it but it stayed on the sending unit and it slides down and locks to the fuel pump

[Guest Recian]

Correction: that device is called a pulsator. It hooks the pump to the sending unit. I bench tested my old pump. It's still good. Odd thing is the pump has 8 ohms resistance. I have 28 ohms at my tank connector. Looks like my sending unit connection has some issues and those aren't being reproduced anymore.

[padgett]

Last time I went through that I needed three donors (can be any GM as long as one with steel lines is correct) to get both the pump and gas gauge working correctly.

See picture below. Stock sender does not have a rubber hose. I suspect that people have replaced the pusator with hose that is not rated for gasoline (use only hose rated for fuel injection).

The rubber insert goes into the base and wedges the pump in place between it and the pulsator. This insert accomodated the base of the pump and allows the sock to be pushed on from beneath. Teeth in the sock lock it in place. This is a '90 insert, the opening for an 88 is shaped differently but should be included in the kit & matches the pump bottom.

I have seen many variations of kludges on pumps that have failed. I always try to put back correctly and why I use only AC Delco pumps.

Must admit am not sure how long this will continue, am seeing a sharp decline in quality from what used to be GM & was part of the reason I bought a Heep.

Edited March 2, 2012 by padgett (see edit history)