smithbrother Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Hello, I just purchased a 46 Road Master sedan. It is very decent shape, runs and shifts nice.The first issue I need to address is that it seems to LOCK up the right front wheel when working the brakes. Any suggestions to start with, I don't have a manual as yet, need to buy one, HINT.........I noticed it DOESN'T have the external oil filter, was this standard in 46?. I also noticed the heater hose fittings at the water pump have brass plugs in place of hose fittings, I am guessing the under dash heater core LEAKS. Comments WELCOME. I have a 41 Limited too, Dad was general manager for a Buick dealer when he went into the Marines in 41, and came home in 45 just when the 46's were released, so this in in his honor. We had a 46 Road Master, we had 5 kids, so needed big four-door. I have named it, ' MYERS ROADY'. His name was Myers Marshall Smith. Oh how he LOVE Buick's, me toooooooo!Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 I need to drain the block, and radiator of this 320 straight eight. I don't want to trust the fluid and COLD weather is due this weekend.Any suggestions for proper block draining is most welcome.Thank You,Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Dale, there is a block drain on the passenger side, down low between the starter and distributor. Oil filters , if East of Miss river, were optional. Several reasons for the brake problem, most likely fluid ir grease on the shoes. Do your self a favor and pull the drum. Probably scare you !! Congratulations on your buy. I have never owned a Roadmaster, but did own a '48 Super. Great car. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 Thank You...... I have inside my enclosed steel building, no heat in it, so will wait for a warm day and pull drums off front first. I bought the car on Ebay, owner passed away in last month, son was selling. Dad had been preparing for paint, so most body work completed. I am going to put new two part primer on and drive for a year. I will keep it original, but will probably change the color from Black to TWO-TONE. $1,750.00 I felt fair price, and now that I have looked it over real close, I am VERY HAPPY. Owner called me, said he would deliver from the Cleveland, Oh area for gas money, and if after I saw it, I didn't like it, well he would take it back. Very nice man, he showed up right on time with his daughter, and we had a nice visit. I then paid him and home he went. Need a manual, and from what I have learned so far maybe I should consider a manual that includes the 1942 Buick, and even some later years. COMMENTS....Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWS Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 You will want the 42 Manual plus the later updates as these were used for the 46 model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Dale,Congratulations on your purchase. I was also looking at that car and I think you have purchased a very solid car. I think you'll be very happy with your car. Going a good route with the primer and driving for a year. You'll get a lot of enjoyment out of it and learn a lot about the car in the first year. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Right front brakes locking up could be the brake hose behind the wheel not allowing fluid pressure to release. Sometimes the hoses collapse internally with age. Check it by removing the hose and seeing if you can blow through it. Probably needs replacing anyway. Also, the brake wheel cylinder can be stuck. Peel back the little rubber cup on either end of it, with a screwdriver, and if you see white or yellow crud, the brake fluid has coagulated and gotten past the cylinder, which needs rebuilding. They are easy to take apart and rebuild. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338Leonard, TX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 I was told by the seller that WATER was in the cooling system, so today I drained the radiator, and opened the block valve. The radiator drained fine, but nothing came out the block valve. I suspected CRUD blocking the flow, so probed with a thin short pointed wire, and still NOTHING. The valve seems to open and close, but NOTHING. I decided to go ahead and add anti-freeze, the radiator took 2 gallons or 8 quarts, and after running the engine to bring to temp, and open the thermostat I was able to add another 2 quarts of water. From what I can tell the system holds approx. 18 quarts, so I feel I am probably ok. Any thoughts on the block valve would be welcome. Also did these engines have a replaceable fuel filter? Thank You,Dale in Indy 1941 Limited1946 Road Master 4-door1979 Corvette2003 Matrix1995 Ford work truck1947 Whizzer motor bike1940 Rexner rail tether car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 "The first issue I need to address is that it seems to LOCK up the right front wheel when working the brakes."Hi, I had the identical issue with my 40 LaSalle. I suspected brake fluid or grease on the RF shoes. Turned out that the cause was blocked rubber brake hoses to the other wheels. Rubber hoses have a limited life. They deteriorate, swell shut, and put crud into your wheel cylinders. I replaced them all, cleaned the debris of deteriorated-rubber-crud from the wheel cylinders, installed new hoses, and I am good to go.Having the wheel cylinders apart lets you check for pitting in the cast iron cylinders. Check them out before buying rebuid kits that you won't need if you have to buy new cylinders.As for the rubber hoses, you may be tempted to buy a $20.00 set on Ebay. These are mfrd in Argentina and may not meet DOT specs. Check further on EBay for a manufacturer in Holland, MI, whose hoses cost $80 a set but are DOT-compliant. I got mine from him--no problems. When I am ready for my in-process 37 Cord to get its rubber hoses, they will come from him also.And here's a hint--reassemble your brake lines and hoses with Never-Seize on the threads of the fittings. In 25 years you'll be glad you did.--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Tom, I agree with assembling the lines and hoses so you can get them apart in the future, but I think you want to be very careful with any type of lubricant on brake line threads. You really don't want to contaminate the insides of the line by some lubricant squeezing inside while tightening. I would recommend tightening the lines as needed then use a small model paint paintbrush to put a coat of grease around the nut and metal line to seal the area from moisture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 I was always under the impression that the key to preventing contamination is to NOT put tape, or anti-seize on the first couple threads. Any thoughts on that?Thanks for the good info, BOTH of you.Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Hi John and Dale,The first time I did brake work on the LaSalle was in 1982-83 right after I obtained it. I put in new hoses, sleeved the wheel and master cylinders, turned the drums, and of course put on new shoes.25 years and 30,000 miles had passed when the wheel-locking problem occured. I found that the brake hoses and line fittings were easily disassembled because back in 1983 I had put Never-Seize on the threads and had also sealed the fittings after assembly with heavy machine bearing grease.I completely concur with John that care must be taken not to allow contamination of the brake fluid with any lubricant. Both times that I have done this job on Baby I brushed the Never-Seize carefully on only the threads, and not on the flares. During the bleeding process I thoroughly flushed the system. And again, I sealed the fitting post-assembly with heavy machine bearing grease to keep water out of the line-to-fitting gap.If this all has to come apart again in 2033 I will again be thankful for this bit of foresight. --Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubelodyte Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Just wanted to chime in to say that my '52 RF brake also jammed up so hard that I didn't dare drive more than 25mph with it, for fear of having to careen wildly to the right and lose control of the car if I really needed to jam on the brakes.I replaced all the hoses and braking has been smooth and even ever since.Just in case you had any lingering doubts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 (edited) The fellow I purchased my 46 Road Master from was kind enough to send to me the external Fram oil filter kit that had been purchased but not installed on the engine. It is a Fram F4-18BW main body and the decal says use C4 or C4P filter. I haven't explored the install method, so if anyone has directions, I am open to learning. The main case has a fitting on the side, and one in the bottom. I would guess the oil goes in the side, and out the bottom????Thanks,Dale in Indy Edited January 17, 2012 by smithbrother (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 You are probably right. That is the way my ;50 is plumbed. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Oil filter cartridge: Fram C4 and C4P cross over to today's Wix 51006 and NAPA Gold 1006, possibly on the shelf or at least no more than a day away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X-Frame Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 First thing I thought of with the brake locking up when applied is that the star sprocket may be sticking and need a little WD-40 on it to loosen it up. Make sure none get on the shoes and take some sandpaper to them if they look a bit glazed until you can get everything rebuilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Thank You guys.Where do I pick up the oil from the engine that goes to the filter, and where does it return?Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 I'm still wondering WHERE on the engine do install the line that will feed my after market Fram oil filter canister, and where does the return line go ?To remove the front fender, is such an HOUR job, or what's your estimate?Thanks,Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 (edited) Dale, hope this helps. Not sure on the return line on the '46, but on my '50, it goes into the head at the right front corner. In the second picture, from another members car, the inlet line, attached to the side, top of the filter can be seen aattached to the main oil gally below the coil. There are several connections available on the gally to choose from. In the first picture, the return line from the bottom of the filter attaches to the connection seen at the top front of the head. Ben Edited February 3, 2012 by First Born (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Good pic's. I will explore in detail what my block has to offer.Thanks for you effort,Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Couple questions: In going thru the trunk of the 46 RM, I found a box of small spare part. One item is a STAMPED STEEL TRUNK EMBLEM ASSEMBLY, and the one on the car is POT METAL, is the STAMPED STEEL piece an aftermarket piece? It is well made, but NO numbers stamped on it.The other question is: I noticed the heater hoses have been blocked off, I assume the heater coil in the car LEAKS, is that a common issue? What's the fix, a new radiator?The only items missing from the car are, the SPARE RIM AND TIRE, and two dog dish hub caps. I am so pleased with this car, it's most likely going to be a TWO-TONE, light gray bottom, dark gray top, with top flowing down the windshield posts, thru the cowl, down the center of the hood, and over the top of the grill. Buick did great job in make two tones possible. YOU ALL KNOW THAT......... Thanks for reading and offering comments to my questions,Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Foggy norm Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) This is a general idea, about your heater. Sometime's restorer's will close off the heater, to get bigger engine project completed first. Do you have an air compressor and portable air tank? You can see how the heater is mounted on the firewall and the operation cable's, if the "core" (radiator) is bad it will have to be removed. Not sure of your type, before removing, check to see if there is any corrosion around the bottom of it. IF so, could indicate a leak or previous leak.I would suggest attaching a couple of hose's to it, before removal, fill it with water, check for drip's. I've converted my portable air tank hose with a connector so I can change to whatever. I'd put a rubber tipped air gun on, with about 10-15#pounds or less of air and apply pressure to th hose, you'll know soon enough if the core is bad.If using an air compressor, un plug it and drop the air pressure, just a short burst is all that's needed to push any fluid through a split, beats sitting around waiting for a drip.TRP3141592.....What is that color on that beautiful car, it appear's to have a green hue,.....computer color's???? Edited March 8, 2012 by Foggy norm (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Thanks Foggy norm............I will take a peek.Does anyone know if Buick made both POT METAL and STAMPED STEEL 46 trunk emblems housings? I have one of each and wonder if one is aftermarket. Thank You,Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Dale, any possibility the stamped steel one is for a 42 Blackout model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 Great thought................ That would make sense. When stamped it came out with a couple WAVES, I am going to make an arty piece out of it, so I primed it HEAVY, sanded it flat, sprayed it with Metallic silver, then clear coated it. I am going to do my 46 RM 4-door on a very strict budget, NOT THE OBAMA WAY, LOL, always wanted to see how LITTLE I could spend,so I am going to forgo the expense of chrome on many pieces. I will attempt to give it a BRUSHED STAINLESS look with rattle can paint. I'm good with rattle cans, hehehe. This car runs so good, starts right up, just got to work on the right front brake that grabs. The headliner, rear seat and door cards are very nice, front seat under driver has a tear though. Looks like someone sat down with screw driver in rear pocket, IMO.It doesn't have any side mirrors. I purchased a couple this week, tried one today, just NOT what in want. Need a much bigger mirror, may have to go modern. I hate it when I can't see backing, I hate backing, but got to do what you got to do, huh.Anyone that has good results with side mirrors, I would sure like to hear from you. Dale in Indy(SmithBrother) Smith brothers cough drops inspired, brother is TRADE, I'm MARK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 I am looking for a picture or two of the running boards inside a 4-door 46-48 Buick. I need to see what material is used BEFORE the aluminum/stainless formed pieces. It doesn't matter what series. Is it rubber mats, or steel pieces?So a shot of the floor in-board running boards with the doors open.Thank You,Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 To Foggy NormRe: TRP3141592.....What is that color on that beautiful car, it appear's to have a green hue,.....computer color's???? Sorry I didn't respond to your inquiry on the paint color on my 37. I didn't see your question until tonight when I re-read the thread.The paint color is Coronary Green. There is info on the mix atAutoColorLibrary - Color Chip SelectionI have really liked this color--it passes for a darker color, then you go, "Whoa--that's green."--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 A BIG Thanks to Servo for good pictures of the UNDER THE DOOR trim used on a 46 Buick, now I have good directions. Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serb Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 That would be Stevo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Just making SURE YOU were paying attention, STEVO, STEVO, STEVO, I think I have it now, well you DID SERVO me well.....Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Today I received a copy of the 1946 & 47 BODY MANUAL, SERVICE AND CONSTRUCTION book by Fisher Body. It is a REPRINT, which I knew it would be when I purchased it. I found the pictures TERRIBLE, and it doesn't cover lots and lots of parts which are on the car. Yes, I am very much a hands on fellow, and for the most part I can figure out how to remove all the different parts WITHOUT a book, but a GOOD book can and often does save time. I am going to request from the seller permission to return the book. Now, I need to start all over, and see if I can find a used ORIGINAL, not a reprint, and also look for what is probably called an ASSEMBLY BODY AND CHASSIS BOOK. Any ideas?????Thanks, Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 On ebay I found a 1942 original manual, and also a 1946-47 supplement original. The supplement contains all changes in the 46 cars that aren't in the 42 big book. I paid $25.00 and $17.00 plus shipping, and for what it's worth, I made OFFERS on both rather than paying asking prices, and both accepted my offers, so I'm glad to be getting ORIGINAL manuals, at fair prices. 1946 -47 Buick's have many of the same parts as the 42, thus the 42 manual is key. Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 I'm sure someone has done this,......my door weatherstrips have many small cracks/spits, and a few larger ones, so I am thinking of wiping the rubber down with Lacquer thinner, then taking BLACK SILICONE and rubbing it into the cracks and smoothing it out. Maybe there is a better product, but wonder if any of you have comments on this?I purchased this Roadmaster for $1,750.00. It is really in good condition, and for the fun of it I am going to make it a neat driver, but without spending much on it. I am going to do all the work, and keep tabs on how LITTLE I put into it. I know how to put LOTS of cash into a car, but this one is going to go the cheap, cheap route. So far I have the cost of a bottle of chrome cleaner, 6 quarts of oil, 2 quarts of light gray epoxy primer, sandpaper, and paint prep cleaner liquid.Any comments on weatherstrip RESTORE are most welcome.Thanks,Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Foggy norm Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Some weatherstrip is hollow and some is solid foamlike. For a neat clean driver, what you have planned, make's sense. Just don't close the door's to soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Dale, isn't it about time for some PICTURES??::D Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest craftsmen22 Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Check out Bobs automobilia and Steele Rubber. I bought the door weatherstrip for our 47 Super 8 at Stelle Rubber and some cement to it. it worked great.Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 46BuickSuper Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 I have a 46 Super that was passed down to me. I have been busy with demanding job and new child so it was parked for 2 years. I need to move it soon, what should I do to ensure I do not damage engine since it has been idle so long? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Foggy norm Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 (edited) Shoot some oil fogger into the cylinder's, let it sit a few day's. Put a good charge on the battery, disconnect the coil. Crank the motor to get oil pumping through it (leave the plug's out), recharge the battery. Caution; You will get spray of gas if it has some in the carb. IF it ran before, it will run again. Edited May 9, 2012 by Foggy norm (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 46BuickSuper Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Thanks Norm. So I should take the plugs out and spray the foggin oil in? Same with carb? I have not used before but I see I probably should have done it before it went dormant. Didn't plan it this way.Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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