Guest pothookit Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I found a 61 buick special for 400, hope i did not get took. I want to restore it(80-90%). The ometer says 71179(oil change sticker said 63780 in 4/76). I think it maybe correct. Motor has oil(1/2 qt low) , I think the motor is stuck, auto Trans has fuild. Has setup in the elements for yrs(last reg. was 82). Where should I start? I want to spend about 5-8K, I will do most of the work myself. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Hello Pothookit: a cool Buick for the right price. There's quite a bit you can do to bring this car back to life and mostly it will require a lot of patience. Before we assume your level of experience with this type of stuff, can you give us somemore background on your mechanical experiences? This will help us to suggest things in terms that are easily understood.Meanwhile I see the interior has some leaves and stuff in there. If you have evidence of mouse infestation I urge you to be careful in cleaning the interior, to avoid the possibility of hentavirus. Check that out on the web. It's scary stuff even if the possibility is low.Glad you stopped by to get some suggestions here. we love to watch old Buicks come back and ride again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Pour some brake fluid or Liquid Wrench into the spark plug holes, and let it soak for a few days, then gently try to turn the crankshaft with a big wrench. Don't force it too hard or you could break a piston ring or piston skirt. You can also remove valve covers and rocker arm shaft assemblies, and spray Liquid Wrench or WD-40 on the valve stems and let that soak. Lightly tap the tops of the valves or rocker arms, to see if you can free those up without removing the cylinder heads. On an aluminum engine like this, don't tighten any spark plugs or bolts too tightly, or you will strip the threads.Pete Phillips, BCA #7338Leonard, TX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I am 62. I am a just retired computer database administrator for major university. In 1967(senior in high school) I had a 61 buick special 215cid 3spd on column that was bought new by my dad. When I got it, it had been through my mother and brother. It was wore out, but I drove/worked it for about 2-3 yrs. My next car was a 60 ford galaxic 500. It was a good car. I have rode/worked on motorcycles(harleys,yamaha,honda). I have worked on my boat/motors(150 mercury) I have worked on all of my cars over the years. I had to pull the motor in the 61 buick special in 1968, just to knock out a dent in the oil pan due to me going to fast over RR tracts an bottomed out. The crank was hittin the pan. I have put value bodies in my 02 saturn sc1 auto, also did a change out of the auto trans in the 02 saturn later. I have a 79 ford truck that I maintain(since 1980). I have worked/drove another 61 buick special conv. in 72-76(college yrs). It was worn out to,, had to replace motor after three days, could not fine buick 215 so I used a Ols f-85 215, drove it for 4 yrs. then gave it away.Got this buick special home today. Right rear and front left wheels stuck. I took them apart and now they turn also. The car has four seem to be new tires. The two brake drums I removed seemed to bee new, no sign of wear grooves. The front left shoes came apart so I put them wheel back on without the shoes. The left rear did not come apart, so I adjusted the shoes in and put the wheel back on.I found the spot to work and I vacumned the interior out and cleaned out the motor area. Motor is stuck I think. Motor does have oil in it(1/2 qt low)last oil change sticker said 63680 miles now it shows 71179 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Thanks Pete, all good advice. I will try to free the motor just to know the condition before I have it rebuilt. The stripping of bolts is a problem even with disassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Always remember that there was a reason that these cars were parked in the first place: usually major components like engine, transmission, rear end, etc. Now the fun begins finding the issue :eek:Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 well after some lookin and thinkin, I have found the numbers on the motor and the door vin number matches the engine number. So i'm ready to remove motor and tranny. How can I find shops to do the rebuilds? How do you know the best shop/deal? I live in Lufkin,Tx , I could have it done here, but is that the best shop/deal? How much would shipping effect all of this?Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Ready to pull motor and trans. I have found that I need a new radiator. Where do I find one? new or used! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Hopefully the tanks are good/repairable. Find a good old shop and have it recored. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Keep in mind that in Texas, with an 8 cylinder, and factory A/C, you will need to get the maximum radiator possible. Looks like you already have a 7 blade fan and that's a good thing. Are you intending to keep this car completely stock? Because if not, you may want to research if a 64-67 300 engine can be fitted in there. The aluminum engines are definitely unique, but I like cast iron for long term durability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 For sure I am going with complete stock if possible. I have a machine shop ready to do the v8 overhaul for around 2K. I have a trans shop to do the dual path for around 1K. The car just did not have the radiator when I got it. I think that is the only parts that are not stock. I don't know of any wrecking yards that will have any thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldwood Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 I think I know where a parts car is in Arkansas. I'll have to check. What are you looking for??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 gas tank, radiator, may need hard parts for the dual path tranny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 2K to rebuild the engine sounds inexpensive. And although a good price from the individuals perspective, not much of a bargain if done incorrectly. Have you considered joining the Buick Club of America? Their monthly magazine is full of Buick specific parts vendors. I'm certain you can find vendors for all you need.PS: Does anyone know if the aluminem engines already have hardened valve seats? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 I have joined the Buick Club of America. These old heads do not have hardened value seats, but the rebuild will include harden seats in the heads when they rebuild the heads. I am in East Texas also, may have impact on prices. Thanks for the comments.The major parts I need now is the stock rediator and gas tank. The major problem now seams to be how to clean engine compartment and parts before painting. The front end is only attached with 3 bolts, so I was going to drop it and clean and paint it out side of car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 I have two tried and true methods for cleaning the engine compartment. 1. Go to your local big box hardware store (Home Depot / Lowes) and buy a gallon of Orange Citrus degreaser and an empty spray bottle or two. Spray the stuff full strength on your engine compartment and let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes. If you have a powerwasher or access to one, use that to rinse it down, if not use your hose and spray / rinse it down. Works real well to get the majority of the grease off. Second method is to raid the household cleaning supplies and use the Scrubbing Bubbles Bathroom cleaner. This stuff works like magic as well on the more stubborn stuff. Again, spray it on, let it sit for 10 min or so, then rinse off. Between those two methods, you should be able to get the engine compartment fairly clean to start working on it without getting totally grease covered. You will most likely need to thoroughly clean the parts as you take them off though. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 I have a good, used gas tank that I will sell, but it does not have a sending unit with it.Pete Phillips, BCA #7338Leonard, TX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Thanks Jim for those cleaning tips, I will do the orange and powerwasher. Do you think I will have to sand blast before painting? There is some rust covering a lots of area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 I have joined the Buick Club of America. These old heads do not have hardened value seats, but the rebuild will include harden seats in the heads when they rebuild the heads. I am in East Texas also, may have impact on prices. Thanks for the comments. I believe it is generally accepted that Buick engineers had high nickle content valve seats in engines for years before 61. These seats are considered hardened and it is not recommended to replace them if they do not need to be. One of the problems being with the early V8's having close tolerance between the guides and the water jackets. Of course I refer to the cast iron engines, not this aluminum one, with which I am not experienced.Anyway, I would be surprised to learn that this engine did not also have hardened seats. There is another source for information on these cars, it is a separate club for the 61-63 Skylarks. The compact Buick Club is run by Bruce and I would suggest contacting him directly. His e mail is Bruce@compactbuickclub.org Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 I guess it would depend on where the rust is. My suggestion would be to sandblast only if you have the engine and tranny out of the car as well as anyother electrical item. The sand will get everywhere, so be careful. The other option is to use a wire wheel on a drill to get the rust off as well, if you can or don't want to sandblast. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stripgear Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 The heads are aluminum, so they already have alloy valve seats. How hard are they? I'm not sure, but I've got 10,000 miles on mine after rebuild and they are fine. If you are thinking about changing them be sure the machine shop knows what they are doing. Aluminum expands more than steel, so if they are not done right, they can fall out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Thanks for the tips John, jim and strip. I will be checking on the heads and will repost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Bruce is also the BCA Technical Advisor for the '61-'63 compact Buicks.When you get your first Bugle, there should be an ad in it for Wheatbelt Buick - they are a Buick-only wrecker based in Carrier, OK. It seems to me they have shut down their web site, but if anyone has parts, they are a good bet.Good luck with the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Thanks Thriller, I have not hear form Bruce yet. I think I will probable go for the new seats just incase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Update: Motor and tranny are at the engine machine shop together. I could not seperate the tranny from the motor due to the fact that the motor is stuck. Machine shop will call when I can pick up tranny. The car is at the sand blast shop for blasting entire car inside and out and priming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Update: motor is at machine shop and will be ready for pickup middle of the coming week. tranny is now at tranny shop and will be ready on the 19th. Already picked up the hood,doors,trunk lid, and some small parts from the sand blaster. they look good. BTW I have found on the internet Azizona Vintage Auto parts. In an email they said they had a lot of parts for these buicks and others... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPACTBC Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 John, I would not let anyone put new valve seats in your heads, it generally is not necessary. Are you sure the machine shop you have chosen has experience with these engines? It doesn't sound like it to me. If you want some qualified info on these engines contact Dan Lagrou in Almount, MI , his shop's people are considered the most informed on these engines in the USA. His phone # is (810) 798-2491. I can also give you a lot of good info on these cars if you like. My phone # is 714 544-1592 I live in Tustin, CA so call between 10:30 AM and 4:00 PM P.D.T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Thanks fro those comments and advice Bruce, The shop did the heads and did not replace the value sets. Thanks for the numbers too. Update: motor bored 30 over, mains&rods 10. I did have two(2) broken rocker arms. Got them no problem for 12.80 each. Got 2 fuel pumps off ebay both rebuilt. Also today I got the drive shaft support and bearing from GM Obsolete Vintage Parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Lots of progress made since last post. The car has been blasted and primed inside and out. Lots of work on body(sanding, bondo, prime...). No paint yet. Picking up motor today, I already have dual-path tranny back waitin on motor.I have painted engine compartment.where can I find front wheel cylinders? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Just a few pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Hey..looking good there. Check on eBay for the fron wheel cylinders. You can also find them at a NAPA store and I think CarQuest. I just bought some for my 57 from NAPA. Make sure that you have the correct fittings for the hoses. I realized that the original ones were 1/8" fittings and on the new cylinders they were made for 1/4" hoses fittings. BTW, NAPA had the correct hoses for the new cylinders as well. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 RockAuto Auto Parts is another place to look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 The wedding happened yesterday. The newly rebuilt 215 @ newly rebuilt dynaFlow was installed into newly painted engine compartment. check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Sweet! I was wondering where the A/C Compressor was in those cars. Looks like a bear to change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 pullin the engine might be the easyest way. It is bolted to the engine mount, power steering pump, and a tab on the engine head. My big problem now is to put in the motor mount bolt(3/8" x 2 1/2") right behind that A/C compressor and under the exhaust manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Are you having the compressor rebuilt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 I did not, it turns and the system had presure when I opened it. I don't know if I can afford to have the A/C working. I put it back hoping it will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pothookit Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 spudders, but won't start. Checking all things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Thank God it didn't. I would not want to take a chance without coolant in an aluminum engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ambr607 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Thank God it didn't. I would not want to take a chance without coolant in an aluminum engineKinda what I was thinking as well. Warpage in a big hurry! Heat the cylinders without water in the jackets? Not a good idea. Granted the coolant doesn't flow until the thermostat opens but at least it's there to absorb the heat and distribute it evenly throughout the block. I certainly understand the excitement and desire to fire it up but don't risk the investment you just made!Triple check your plug wire order. Driver's side bank is 1,3,5,7 and passenger bank is 2,4,6,8. I was used to a Ford 289 motor that was 1-4 and 5-8 with #1 on front left!! Thankfully I caught myself before I tried cranking it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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