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Advice on starting a 32 model B project


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OK this car belonged to a realtive who had it pretty much restored (not a frame off or anything more of a always taken care of original car) and drove it on sundays etc. It hasn't been driven in 15 years and was in his barn. mice got to the interior, motor turns over but we didn't spend time to realy try to get it to run. He had it as long as I can remember and I'm 48.

What would it cost to redo the interior and in VERY broad terms, what is is worth as it sits? Assume anything cloth is shot? Body and Class are all in nice shape including the roof. I believe it is a v8 and I know he said it had an electric fuel pump. It is a Tudor.

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OK this car belonged to a realtive who had it pretty much restored (not a frame off or anything more of a always taken care of original car) and drove it on sundays etc. It hasn't been driven in 15 years and was in his barn. mice got to the interior, motor turns over but we didn't spend time to realy try to get it to run. He had it as long as I can remember and I'm 48.

What would it cost to redo the interior and in VERY broad terms, what is is worth as it sits? Assume anything cloth is shot? Body and Class are all in nice shape including the roof. I believe it is a v8 and I know he said it had an electric fuel pump. It is a Tudor.

Photos would give us a better idea on how to give it a worth.

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Jim, Go easy on that car. I realize it is a tudor but any '32 is a very valuable car, V/8 or Model B. I was recently quite involved in a V/8 3 window coupe that was basically an original car, but needed everything. In essence a complete restoration. It sold in the high 30's, to a dealer whom flipped it,and it now is in California. Talk to some people prior to your sale or purchase. Good luck--Bob

Edited by Seldenguy (see edit history)
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Sorry if I wasn't clear. I am not trying to restore and flip this. I want to restore and keep it. I think I can get it for $5k or so which based on my research seems like a good price for a complete, rust free chasis and motor. This is in better shape than that. Once the interior is redone I believe it would be a presentable all original car. Myy uncle went through a lot getting gauges and stuff for it. He even has an appropriate period clock for the visor(I think it was from a mercury). I am trying to err on the very conservative side here.

My thoughts long term are to do some minor modifications to make it into what a hot rodder in the 50's would have done to it. I am NOT going to chop it, but look for wheels and maybe carb and exhaust mods that someone would have done back then.

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Jim, the money is in originals. Anyone can hotrod one, as evidenced by the numerous ones you find for sale on every street corner. An original car such as you are describing would best be left original. But it is or will be your car. Give it some deep thought.---Bob

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Let me clarify my thoughts, and maybe it isn't worth doing. I was thinking of what in muscle cars we called "bolt ons". I would keep all the original parts and wouldn't do anything that couldn't be reversed in a sunday afternoon of wrenching. The idea would also be to not use anything that wasn't available in 1950 for example. I have no desire to do a chop it up and drop a 1970's chevy v8 into it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got the photo's. at 70 my dads version of working the digital camera is to print thr pictures and mail them. The circles on the body are photo flaws not issues in the paint The batteries were removed and akll the floor parts are there. All the cloth is gone but I believe all hard pieces of the interirior are there. Any suggestions for an interior shop in Mass or upstate new york? Does Lebaron have a instalation shop too?14423836_RvcVo#1069694570_uMWo7http://jrodda.smugmug.com/Cars/henrysB/14423836_RvcVo#1069694570_uMWo7-A-LB

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  • 3 weeks later...

Has anyone done thier own install of the Lebaron seat upholstery kit? I know there are videos on line and it looks straightforward, but is it one of those things the pros make look easy and a do-it-yourselfer can never get right?

Other than the cloth, my seats are intact and in good contition.

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I am hoping Dean gets his interior done before I do. I need all the help I can get. I probably won't be able ot get started on it till the week before christmas. Hope to have lots of photos next week though. Dad is 73 so I can't push him too hard in getting the car out. Especially in November in the berkshires.

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What books? I have the set of the "1932 ford Book". which looks like excellent reference for what items were on the car and what they look like. Are there any books out there that are repair manuals? I am thinking like a haynes or Chiltons type manual. Are the copies of the original shop manuals available anywhere?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Add water an' stir,,,,,LEAVE ITT ALONE,,, itll run good,,,After Henry made 20 million cars,,,he had assembled a good engineering dept,,,Ask the guys that own one or two or ?? Even the Packard guys will back me up on this i think,,Plus it will make dad happier that his efforts were appreciated,,,Cheers,,Ben

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Add water an' stir,,,,,LEAVE ITT ALONE,,, itll run good,,,After Henry made 20 million cars,,,he had assembled a good engineering dept,,,Ask the guys that own one or two or ?? Even the Packard guys will back me up on this i think,,Plus it will make dad happier that his efforts were appreciated,,,Cheers,,Ben

Huh?? not sure I follow the Leave it Alone comment.

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Just thought I would post some additional Info I got. The car has been moved to my dad's garage and I will go up this weekend so better pictures coming. I found out my Uncle bought it in 1959 for $40.00 (50 years is a LONG time to own a car). The number we have on the paperwork is 5085XXX. If I am reading the book correctly this is an early model?

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First real restoration question. The people storing the car (family friends) managed to break the drivers side tail light bracket. I see these are readily available as reproduction parts. How hard is it to find originals? If these are not readily available as originals I will get the repo to have on there while I am looking. Readily available means I can find a good one on ebay or a classified in the next month or so for ??? What are they worth. repo is $40ish.

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Jim, half the fun is the hunt for parts. What is the condition of the other side? If it is still presentable then I would put a wanted ad on the Ford forum for a used one. If your other side is not too good, then I would opt for a pair of repo parts to keep the car "balanced". I would rather find a good used or NOS part. But to each his own. Oh, I buy off of Ebay all the time. You just have to keep looking.

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I finally got up to see the car. Good news is that other than the tailight brackets I believe every part is there. I am surprised to see the heater. Is this from a later year? The gas tank will need to come off and get cleaned. We are rebuilding the carb before we try to start it. I imagine the fuel pump will need to be done too? I only got the gasket set for the carb...I am wondering if I should get the full kit as long as we are taking it apart. any thoughts? I welcome any explainations as to what is and is not right with the car.

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One of the neat things I found in the Car is a log my Aunt and uncle wrote on "restoring the Model B". They were not very thorough in writing in it, but it is clear they painted the car in 63. does that change the clean it and drive it comments? I am still going to clean it and drive it. Just curious

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One of the neat things I found in the Car is a log my Aunt and uncle wrote on "restoring the Model B". They were not very thorough in writing in it, but it is clear they painted the car in 63. does that change the clean it and drive it comments? I am still going to clean it and drive it. Just curious

That does not change my comments.

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Your car is in fact a Model B (4 cylinder) Not real candidate to be a 50's rod

with bolt in modifications. It's the V8 cars that you can do that to without really hurting the car.

Your car in running condition as pictured would be welcome at an Antique Car meet or a Rod Runs (Both groups love the 32 Ford.)

A fresh interior can be done for you for less than $5000.

In running condition it's a serviceable as any antique car can be. It's really a Super Deluxe Model A and the Model A is the most popular antique car in our hobby. Reliable, easy to work on, easy to get parts for, easy to get help on,

universally loved in the 32 body. On all tours around the country, the Model A is the dominant car in numbers, Glidden, Sentimental, Great Race, you name the event. You Super Deluxe one in a 32 body will be even more popular!

At the price you are paying, plus an interior, you're in real cheap with a great car. The original patina adds to the druel factor by everybody who will ever come in contact with it. You'll get more offers than you want and will have to love it to keep turning them down. Keep it stock and you'll learn to really love it, and hopefully keep it and enjoy our hobby to the fullest.

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Here are the back seats....finally realized why I couldn't match the "original fabric" with a bonney kit. Looks like it was covered over the original mohair.

Question for the "keep it original" process. This car is unbelievably solid for it's age but has light surface rust in the floor area like under the rear seats. I am assuming I need to do something to keep it from rusting more. Am I being to cautious and should just prep and spray paint it over, as it is in an unseen area?

Of course there is also the black engine.....as the front spark plug is black, I am assuming my uncle painted the block when he painted the car.

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This look like a car that should only get the needed mechanical work done to it. It is just a good looking car as is. From experience I can tell you that your car is likely to get more attention then some high end show cars.

I would pull the wheels off of it and see what the brakes are like. Frequently they are worn and or cobbled together over the years. I dont know about you, but I like to stop.

With the mechanical brakes it is important to have properly redone brakes and they will stop the car as well as juice brakes. The best part is they need very little maintenance and do not go bad just sitting. This means lots of new or NOS parts, shoe arced to good drums and properly centered.

For driving at speed, keep in mind this car should run 55+ MPH all day long, you will need 4 good shocks and well lubricated springs.

You should be able to keep the work in to well divided projects and keep the car on the road.

Seatbelts are highly recommended given how well the have been working as retrofits so far. There have been some well documented 'saves' in some bad accidents involving the Model A's.

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  • 1 month later...

MY little bit of progress. Since the carb on the car has a bad weld job on the ear where it bolts to the manifold, I picked up a box of carbs and disected them. Hope to fix mine and rebuild a spare as well. Going up to try to get the car running at end of the month.

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