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A by the sea

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Everything posted by A by the sea

  1. From 1957 I have a bill of sale for a Maxwell 1909 Touring Car with engine #2962. At the time it was bought by Harry Niehaus. I would like to see if I can get this to the current owner of the car. Thanks
  2. My parents used to sell at car shows. They stopped in the early 90's. I have a bill of sale for a Clement Baird (clearly a mis-spelling) dated 1951 from a Fox Chase Garage. In 1963 a Mr. Schieffelin from Whitehouse Station, NJ was trying to identify the model. There are no serial numbers on the documents. I guess there are not very many of these cars around and I would like to try and re-unite these documents with the car. A little update, I searched on the name in the letter. The guy is dead and apparently played with antique cars. He resto
  3. I have more then a foot stack of Antique Automobile magazines going from recent to a while ago. I think the 80's or 90's. Looking for someone to pick up very near Atlantic City, NJ. Cheap, look at it and tell me what you will pay. I am tired of tripping over them, but cant put them in recycle.
  4. I have a about 1.5 feet of the AACA magazine which I do not need. Mostly recent in the last few decades, but some go back to the 1970's. Pick up only in Northfield, NJ which is near Atlantic City. Please email me at 68c@comcast.net
  5. First off, I am 6' 6" and I got into a 28 roadster pickup and almost got stuck in it. They are small. Slant window bodies are more roomy for those who are taller. Second off. Is the car truly restored? Keep in mind that the Model A from the factory could do 60 MPH all day long and feel comfortable running that fast. YES, even on the crappy lack of paved roads in the day. They were considered extremely reliable which is the reason why you read about people in the day hopping in their A and driving all over the country. Ford was able to build a car to do this through extreme (like race car
  6. No quick fix. First determine if they are original Fords. They should have the adjuster in the top of the center shaft. Next, are the shafts loose, will they move up and down? Loose shafts are much more complicated to fix involving machine work. Some of the seals that have been made for the center shaft are not very good. There is a somewhat pricey rebuild kit that has good seals. Of course you will have to get the covers off and that is not always trivial. I suggest going to the A board on Fordbarn.com and search the archives and do not be afraid to ask questions there.
  7. Dryer and stove wiring have to have a separate neutral and ground wire. They are all kind of the same, but the neutral is used to return the current from 110V items in the device and have a separate ground to protect you. Before the same wire was the ground and neutral, but if something went wrong with the neutral wire then you could have dangerous voltage on the metal surrounding the device. I believe the red and black wires are the 2 hots and the white is the neutral (which is not used on the compressor since there are no 110V circuits). I am pretty sure by code ( I am not an electricia
  8. NO one is cheap with plating. What do you need plated and what is the correct plating for the part? Not all parts are chrome. Some places may not do a process that is important for the proper look. Many of the pre 1940's plating was done with a dull nickel and buffed before chrome. So backsides of bumpers would have a dull look. Do you need the parts to function, like top irons much function when done? Are they flat parts that you want to remain flat after plating, not wavy (think hand sanded to shape= more labor)? Keep in mind many shops are oriented to making parts look pretty, n
  9. This truck has been all apart and put back to together. I put it at a late 60's to early 70's 'restoration' on likely a nice body to start with which was 40 years ago. So 40 years ago a restoration was done on a 40 year old car- think about it so now it may seem like a survivor. Odds are real high it was not built back to factory. You are likely to find it was built with a minimum of new parts and probably does not drive as it should. If it has 4 working shocks then try to run it 55 MPH. It should stop well and be happy and comfortable at 55 to 60 MPH. I think you will find 45 is pushing
  10. Ahhh All the 'modern upgrades'. To me all I see on that sheet tell me that the owner has no clue on what it takes to properly build a the Model A, but he did have lots of extra cash. Hopefully the car will be reliable, most of what was done to the car is not field repairable when it fails so the car will have to be towed back. If the car was sort of done right then with all that it has it would run 60+ MPH comfortably!!!!!!!!! It should not be darting about hard to hold on the road. It should not feel like you are lucky to stop (please be careful as they are drum brakes, not the disk brakes
  11. Bernie Johnson was a steeple painter. He painted stuff up high. He had a bunch of old cars and was working on building his own house. While on the roof he took one step too many backwards and fell off. He was paralyzed from the neck down. This medical problem caused some family troubles. They were divorced a long time ago so I do not know what she might know about the car. I saw his wife like 2 or 3 years ago at a local meet in Northfield. They were active members in the Jersey Cape region AACA, she might be a member now. I have not done anything with the club in almost 10 years so I d
  12. You still have the original wiring so you know what gauge wire to use. Something to understand. The fuses protect the wire and are sized for the amount of current the particular gauge and insulation of wire can handle without smoking. The fuses are not sized for the current draw of the devices on the wire. The wire is sized to the needs of the devices and the fuse sized to the wire. So what I am getting at, you need to be sure you replace the existing wire with the same gauge or thicker wire for proper protection.
  13. Shoot you can run a properly restored Model A at 60 to 65 MPH - if you properly restored it to factory. That is how I drive em. So you are worried about running your modern iron at 50?????? Dude if it is not comfy running that fast then I would question how good it was restored. So many do not really restore their cars to factory specs in the drive line. I have even seen $150,000 cars that looked pretty anywhere you looked on top- the bottom still had 70 years of dirt hanging off- with paint on it!!! Our 1939 Ford with a little 60 HP was happy all day long wound out at 60+ MPH. It hated pa
  14. A few years ago my wife car had its interstate battery get weak. It was only 10 years old. I replaced it with a 8 year old interstate that tested good. That battery finally died recently at 10 years. It is not likely I will have this car for 8 more years so I will not be able to report when the new interstate fails. My brothers 31 Model A has between 6 and 8 years on an Optima. That replaced the Interstate he got off the bad pile at Interstate which was 6 to 8 years old when it failed. He runs the original gen with a diode cut out. The charge rate is turned up some because he runs direct
  15. Fuses protect the thinnest gauge wire on the circuit from getting hot enough to cause a fire. Note that the fuse is not necessarily based on the current rating of the device at the end of the wire. So you are protecting the wire not the device. Keep in mind that the type of wire insulation and length of wire matters as you are trying to keep the wire from getting hot enough to start a fire. A little google searching will yield the chart of fuse or breaker to wire size. And Yes many guys are picking fuses by the wrong criteria for use in their cars.
  16. The pins to hold the shifter forks are generally reusable if removed carefully. They just need to be good enough to not go back through the hole when you upset the end.
  17. I would wander over to fordbarn.com for a better discussion on you shift tower. If you pull up on the shifter you can reset it back between the forks. The broken part is just a cover of the shifter position slide rail. You want to get a new shifter tower just because the part can rust up and make shifting hard. The tower should be cheap to buy as there are many of them. It is likely a local A guy would give you one. It is even more likely a local guy could set up a good tower for a low cost or free. Rebuilding the tower is not hard. Though some people like to make it quite a project. Yo
  18. Lots of wrong info on oils out there. Oil has more than one purpose. Of course it lubricates. BUT it protects the engine. Various additives prevent the build up of nasty chemicals and protect the babbitt metals. Detergents take the very fine particles and keep them in suspension so they drain out. With most straight non-detergent oils you are not getting the protection of the additives. You want to prevent the nasty chemicals. About that change it every 500 miles. NOT. Modern oils are good for much longer intervals both in time or miles. My brother has had thousands of engines apart and
  19. Lots of Model A's look factory original but were restored at some point so long ago that they look original. You need to get someone who knows to inspect the car. A true 18,000 mile untouched car could pull in some decent cash because there is a premium on nice true low mile original cars. I could see the value of such a car going over $20,000 even in this poor market. An unrestored or incorrect older restoration tudor (a very common body style) that moves under its own power but is not a special low mile original car would be in the $4000 to $8000 range with around $5000 being a more norma
  20. Depends on the car an how well it was restored back to factory. The Model A from the factory was fairly vibration free with 4 working shocks and brakes that worked. A lot of the A's I see are not very well restored and quite a chore to drive. When you have half a turn of play on the wheel, brakes that barely work, and an engine that vibrates your pants off then 10 miles might be a limit. We did about 300 miles a day for a 900 mile trip in my brothers fairly stock coupe that is well restored. We were running 55 to 65 MPH most of the time when we drove to Wisconsin for the World Meet in 1986.
  21. Last year I wanted some nuts and bolts from a major Ford nut and bolt vender. I go to his booth and find the usual display, ask for the parts. To my surprise the owner tells me he will not sell me anything at the show!! Seems if he sells anything then he has to do a major tax filing in the state of PA. Kind of out of his budget as that is not a trivial matter as he lives a few states away. Dennis Carpenter also is not selling any products in PA. He has a huge set up, but you have to call up on the phone and have the parts shipped to your house. I had noticed that a few other large vendors
  22. You must get the dark spots out of the bottoms of the pits or they can come back even under paint. Keep in mind the chemical treatments such as por15 or other quick coatings do nothing to really to rust with spare O2 in the bottom of the pit. Sand blasting or electrolytic rust removal will get all the rust. You then want to consider SPI epoxy paint direct to metal. The epoxy will seal the rust form getting to the moisture and give a very strong bond to the metal. SPI paint has a fairly long recoat window and it is recommended to put polyester filler direct to the epoxy during the recoat win
  23. For $12k I would expect a car with decent paint and interior. It should run and stop confidently. Typically restored cars are lacking in correct mechanical restoration. It is important to understand the Model A ford was designed to run 60 MPH, stop excellent (for 4 wheel drum brakes and skinny tires), get around 20+ MPG. A restored to factory specs (not show car) will run 55+ MPH all day long no problem. You would expect 50,000 miles out of the babbitt bearings running it this way. Your biggest issues should be greasing the grease points and oiling the oil points regularly. Anyone who te
  24. First you must get your car running properly on 6 volts to make sure you are not masking a bad connection that will get worse with 12 volts. Yes I said worse. A little resistance with more voltage will cause more heat and cause the connection to go bad faster. The ballast resister goes anywheres on the wire attached to the coil. I am glad you are supporting the industry by converting to 12 volts. You just spent a lot of money to help the economy. Then when have to replace the alternator you get to spend even more money. Those delco alt are a mechanics dream. Quick to replace and they f
  25. A more important question. Are the shoes arched to the same diameter of the drums? This is more important as you will not get 100% shoe to drum contact if the radius of the shoes is different then the drum radius. Ya, they can wear in, but on the antique car driven little this may take years.
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