brake issue

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

I am buying a 1990 reatta coupe. It has brake issues, I have been reading everything I can online and especially here, on this forum. I have used the brake test as seems to be the first steps. Here are my results. Any help would be greatly apreciated.

#1-yellow light 1, red light 10

#2-pressure on pedal never seems to change

#3-3 secs for red, 2 for yellow

#4- 3 secs, motor stops as soon as the lights go off

#5-as soon as you touch the pedal the motor runs, and stays running for about 2-3 secs after you let off pedal

#6-fluid level does not change, but if ignition on and hold down pedal, pedal slowly sinks and the fluid level drops. when key is then turned off fluid comes back up(with pedal pump)

#7- very weak. but it is there

I'm thinking bad pressure switch, accumulater, and maybe pump/motor. Am I close?

Thanks very much for your time.

Edited September 17, 2010 by Rockin Reatta (see edit history)

[padgett]

Does that mean the pedal is always hard or do you have some boost ? Pump running on brake sounds like good switch and motor but very bad accumulator. Fix that first then lets see

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

I believe there is some boost, because I took it to a local mechanic and he had me pump the brakes while he was trying to bleed the back brakes, ( he doesnt know anything about the system on this car, and at the time I didnt either) the pedal did feel very hard at that time.

Also thanks for the reply.

Edited September 17, 2010 by Rockin Reatta (see edit history)

[padgett]

If you could bleed the back brakes that way then there had to be some boost, there is no connection between the pedal/mcyl and the back brakes. German designs are sometimes....odd.

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

When he tried nothing would come out, he told me the main ABS unit was shot.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Rear brakes are power bled with ignition on and red light off, fluid will flow out the bleader screw without touching the pedal from the pressure in the system.

You need to pump the pedal only to bleed the front brakes.

[Ronnie]

These instructions may be useful in bleeding the brakes.

How To Flush & Bleed Brakes*-*ReattaOwner.com

You can print them off and take them to your mechanic.

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

Yes, I know that now( I have since read all the post and followed all the links you guys put in other posts)....but when I had it checked out, I didn't. All I knew at that time was that I wanted this car. I wanted one every since I saw one back in the early 90's.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Somebody should have sent you to the doc a long time ago to get a triple shot of the Anti-Reatta vaccine.

'Fraid its to late now and there is no known cure.

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

Yes, I do believe it is terminal...lol

[Barney Eaton]

It sounds like you have a completely dead accumulator. There could be other problems but without a working accumulator it is next to impossible to diagnose the other problems.

Worse case..... a rebuilt unit that bolts on the firewall is about $600 exchange.

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

the prices I found for the whole unit is $800.00-$1100.00, can you please let me know where to pick up a good one for around the $600.00?

I appreciate all the help and comments so far, thanks

[DAVES89]

I have an accumulater that has the made in Germany sticker on it with the pump and pressure switch.

Problem is I leave for Cancun on Sunday and will be gone for a week...

Prices are posted in the Reatta buy/sell

Edited September 17, 2010 by DAVES89 (see edit history)

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

i will buy those from you. Can you contact me when you get back so we can arrange the sale?

Edited September 18, 2010 by Rockin Reatta (see edit history)

[juddev]

accumulator is about 125$ delivered from amazon, try that first before you start believing that the whole unit needs to be replaced.

[padgett]

OTOH having a complete set of spares is not bad. Had myGenie Excellerator from the last century fry. Genie help offered a pair of control boards for $138. Went to HD and bought a 2010 model for $209 complete with two remotes and a wireless wall unit. Had to replace the power head and the two STB units but working fine now and have lots of spare pieces which interchange with the other two Genies I have.

[Booreatta]

I am buying a 1990 reatta coupe. It has brake issues, I have been reading everything I can online and especially here, on this forum. I have used the brake test as seems to be the first steps. Here are my results. Any help would be greatly apreciated.

#1-yellow light 1, red light 10

#2-pressure on pedal never seems to change

#3-3 secs for red, 2 for yellow

#4- 3 secs, motor stops as soon as the lights go off

#5-as soon as you touch the pedal the motor runs, and stays running for about 2-3 secs after you let off pedal

#6-fluid level does not change, but if ignition on and hold down pedal, pedal slowly sinks and the fluid level drops. when key is then turned off fluid comes back up(with pedal pump)

#7- very weak. but it is there

I'm thinking bad pressure switch, accumulater, and maybe pump/motor. Am I close?

Thanks very much for your time.

Now that you have the car and a few issues it would be a good time to join the BCA and the Reatta Division. We are the fastest growing Division in the BCA and all Reatta owners are welcome

THanks

Chuck Kerls

[handmedownreatta]

another option is to dump the antilock brakes by bolting on parts from the same year rivera.

[Barney Eaton]

The place that sells rebuilt Teves units is....... SIA 730 N Minnie St Tilden IL 62292

800-737-0915 the last price I have is $575 plus shipping

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

thanks for the info

[Ronnie]

Thanks Barney. I have added SIA to the vendor list on ReattaOwner.com.

I noticed this on their website:

SIA offers flash reprogramming on late model ecm’s and offers a rebuild & return program for all product lines in which we do not stock. Send us your original unit and we will rebuild and return it in 24 to 48 hours.

Could this be a source for getting our PROMs reprogrammed to turn on fans at a lower temp.?

[padgett]

Think he is buying the set from Dave which I suspect is a good deal & even better if the accumulator is any good.

BTW the hard part for me these days is not the reprogrmming, it is finding PROMs that will accept reprogramming. Might ask if they have new 27C256s.

Edited September 18, 2010 by padgett (see edit history)

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

Thanks for all the help. As soon as I receive the parts from Dave I'll install them and see were I'm at and I'm sure I'll have more questions for you guys.

[DAVES89]

The guys at this yard don't really know what they are and what they are worth. I powered the car up and heard the pump run and shut off. He is getting a smokin good deal.

Once again, the accumulator is a replacement one with the "Made in Germany" sticker.

[hinspect]

MCM electronics have the 27C256 Eproms.

[DAVES89]

Thanks Barney. I have added SIA to the vendor list on ReattaOwner.com.

I noticed this on their website:Could this be a source for getting our PROMs reprogrammed to turn on fans at a lower temp.?

I just wish one of you electronics wizards would just develop a switch to turn the fans on high when the A/C is on. Something plug and play for us mere simpletons...

[padgett]

I only use the a/c a small part of the year.

All I know is that 5-8 years ago I was getting near 100% good reprogrammed original PROMS. Now about 1 in 3 verifies after erasing/programming. Two different programmers. I suspect age is a factor.

New PROMs are available (even have some) just takes a while for someone good at soldering to replace one (28 soldered pins) & haven't got a round tuit. Too many projects.

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

I have received and installed the brake parts I got from Dave and the brakes are working great. Thanks alot Daves89!

[DAVES89]

You are welcome.

I am glad the parts worked for you. Did you replace the pump/accumulator together as I sent you or did you remove the accumulator and install just that?

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

I just removed the accumulator and saved the pump and switch till I needed them.

[DAVES89]

Good for you. Now is the time to consider building a bit of an inventory on parts to get you back on the road faster when parts fail.

Such as;

IPC, CRT [if you have an '88/89], Climate control module [if you have a 90/91], blower control module, extra head light switch [if you have a 90/91], coil pack/ICM, Mass Air Flow Sensor, Accumulator, pressure switch, various relays, light bulbs, and fuses.

If you are a little crazier like me you can stock even more.

Such as;

Rear tailight and wiring harness, EBCM, wheel sensors, rotors, BCM,ECM, steering column, complete Teves unit, cassette deck, shifter/dash panels, wiper/window switch, seat switches, CRTC, inverters,head lights, head light and wiper pods, head light motor, oxygen sensor, glove box/cubby latches, pass thru latch, shifter knob, door pull handle trim pieces, inner door wiring harness's, inside and outside mirrors, radio antenna.

Looking over this list I guess I am crazy. But then again I am trying to keep two cars running. [And I don't want to steal parts from one to keep the other running].

[padgett]

That's not crazy. Crazy is the two Pontiac 400s, and one 421 in the garage. I have & only one car left that uses & it already has a good engine. Of course I have a friend who has cornered the market on Pontiac OHC-6s.

"Enough" is when you don't know how many you have...

[Guest Rockin Reatta]

I will indeed be buying more of these parts as they become available to me. Thanks for the advice Dave.