'52 Roadmaster: A Laundry List

[Cubelodyte]

So I took the plunge and purchased a '52 Roadmaster. Even though my mechanical experience has heretofore largely been confined to oil changes, everything seems pretty straightforward, and I've been poking around assessing the beast, but have run into some things that I haven't been able to figure out. I'm hoping somebody here has some advice!

• Trunk locks. I can't get the damned thing open, and before I ruin it, or have a locksmith open it, I'd like to find a replacement. The problem is, I haven't found any online for a '52. I've tried Bob's and CARS and a few other places, but no luck. Suggestions welcome.
  
• Hood "insulation". The insulation is in terrible shape, and is all torn up. It looks like old wall insulation that was glued to the underside of the hood. I haven't been able to find that specifically for a '52 either, but the '53 hoods seem pretty close... what would I adhere the new insulation on with, though?
  
• Oil filter cylinder. I took the cap off to clean and paint it. As I disassembled the cap, pieces of an ancient, flattened gasket fell off from underneath the bolt/nut. Or... was it just a ring of accumulated crud? The shop manual doesn't help. Now I don't know if I need to find a replacement gasket.
  
• Engine block paint: I see a lot of rebuilt engines that are painted completely turquoise (or is that "Buick Green"?). My engine has not been rebuilt, but the block is unpainted around the manifold/spark plugs. Do folks just repaint the whole thing because it's easier as opposed to masking off that "band" on the block?
  
• Spark plug covers: speaking of the block, I've seen pictures of straight 8s with a long cover over the spark plugs, like a cable organizer. Is that an aftermarket thing, or was it only present on certain years?
  
• Air filter: No idea when it was cleaned last. Doesn't look nasty, but still. Should I clean it with kerosene or some other solvent? I had thought to soak it in a degreaser, rinse the hell out of it, then bake it at 250 degrees for a few hours to dry it out. Good idea or bad idea?
  
• Side mirror: Ain't got one, even on the driver's side. It doesn't appear to be missing; there's noplace I can see in the frame/trim where one might have once been attached. That seems weird. I know they weren't common on the passenger side back then, but to not have one on the driver's side seems odd.
  
• Gas: From what I gather, I should be using a mid- to high-octane gas? What about a lead additive/subsitute? My cursory searching seems to indicate folks are split on whether or not to use additives.
  
• Oil: I once found a thread here that I dimly recall ended up recommending straight 30. It seems like a reasonable suggestion. Or is there a weight that's more preferable?
  

Thanks for reading and any help you can offer!

[Guest sconnors]

Well congratulations on your purchase! I've got a 1950 Buick Special so I'll throw my two cents in. My responses are below yours in CAPS. Hope it helps.

So I took the plunge and purchased a '52 Roadmaster. Even though my mechanical experience has heretofore largely been confined to oil changes, everything seems pretty straightforward, and I've been poking around assessing the beast, but have run into some things that I haven't been able to figure out. I'm hoping somebody here has some advice!

• Trunk locks. I can't get the damned thing open, and before I ruin it, or have a locksmith open it, I'd like to find a replacement. The problem is, I haven't found any online for a '52. I've tried Bob's and CARS and a few other places, but no luck. Suggestions welcome. DO YOU HAVE THE KEY? AND IS THE LOCK IN PLACE? ON MINE I HAVE TO PUT THE KEY IN, AND THEN BACK IT OUT EVER SO SLOWLY WHILE TURNING THE KEY AND IT WILL OPEN. JUST AN OLD LOCK. IF THE LOCK CYLINDER ISN'T IN THERE YOU CAN PROBABLY STICK A SCREWDRIVER IN AND TURN IT.
  
• Hood "insulation". The insulation is in terrible shape, and is all torn up. It looks like old wall insulation that was glued to the underside of the hood. I haven't been able to find that specifically for a '52 either, but the '53 hoods seem pretty close... what would I adhere the new insulation on with, though? YOU CAN USE SPRAY ADHESIVE FROM 3M I'M TOLD IT WORKS WONDERS ALTHOUGH I CAN'T ATTEST TO IT PERSONALLY.
  
• Oil filter cylinder. I took the cap off to clean and paint it. As I disassembled the cap, pieces of an ancient, flattened gasket fell off from underneath the bolt/nut. Or... was it just a ring of accumulated crud? The shop manual doesn't help. Now I don't know if I need to find a replacement gasket. THERE SHOULD BE A GASKET THERE AND YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET ONE IF YOU CALL CARS OR BOB'S. AS FOR THE FILTER, ANY NAPA STORE SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET YOU ONE.
  
• Engine block paint: I see a lot of rebuilt engines that are painted completely turquoise (or is that "Buick Green"?). My engine has not been rebuilt, but the block is unpainted around the manifold/spark plugs. Do folks just repaint the whole thing because it's easier as opposed to masking off that "band" on the block? USUALLY THE BLOCK IS PAINTED A TURQUOISE. ON MY 1950 THE ENGINE IS TURQUOISE AND THE OIL FILTER IS BLUE AND THE TOP OF THE OIL FILTER IS ORANGE AND THE AIR FILTER IS BLACK. THESE ARE ALL CORRECT COLORS. YOU CAN GET ENGINE PAINT HERE FOR YOU 52. ENGINE ENAMEL-Hirsch Automotive Products
  
• Spark plug covers: speaking of the block, I've seen pictures of straight 8s with a long cover over the spark plugs, like a cable organizer. Is that an aftermarket thing, or was it only present on certain years? THAT WAS STOCK ON MOST STRAIGHT EIGHTS.
  
• Air filter: No idea when it was cleaned last. Doesn't look nasty, but still. Should I clean it with kerosene or some other solvent? I had thought to soak it in a degreaser, rinse the hell out of it, then bake it at 250 degrees for a few hours to dry it out. Good idea or bad idea? USE SOMETHING LIKE SIMPLE GREEN, SOAK IT GOOD, SCRUB IT OFF, AND IF YOU HAVE TO, SAND IT AND REPAINT IT.
  
• Side mirror: Ain't got one, even on the driver's side. It doesn't appear to be missing; there's noplace I can see in the frame/trim where one might have once been attached. That seems weird. I know they weren't common on the passenger side back then, but to not have one on the driver's side seems odd. NOT SURE ABOUT ROADMASTER'S BUT ON THE SPECIAL'S SOME CAME WITH THEM ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE SOME DIDN'T. THE MIRRORS ON THESE MODELS CLIPPED ON THE DOOR RAIL OUTSIDE YOUR VENT WINDOW.
  
• Gas: From what I gather, I should be using a mid- to high-octane gas? What about a lead additive/subsitute? My cursory searching seems to indicate folks are split on whether or not to use additives. BASED ON INPUT FROM FOLKS ON HERE AND OTHER BUICK BOARDS, SINCE I'VE OWNED MY 1950 I'VE FILLED IT WITH REGULAR GAS AND ON EACH FILL UP ADD A BOTTLE OF STABIL AND SHE RUNS GREAT!
  
• Oil: I once found a thread here that I dimly recall ended up recommending straight 30. It seems like a reasonable suggestion. Or is there a weight that's more preferable? I USE GOOD OLD 10W-40 IN MINE.
  

HOPE THAT HELPS!!

Thanks for reading and any help you can offer!

[JohnD1956]

Lets start at the beginning.. Welcome to this forum, and the wonderful word of Buicks. You picked a nice car to start with and hopefully you will make a suitable entry on the Me and MyBuick part of this forum. alo, hopefully you will consider joining the BCA for comaradie and support of your new habit. We'd all like to meet you.

As for your list I hope I can be of assistance on some things:

Cubelodyte;793495]

"....Trunk locks. I can't get the damned thing open, ... "

Do you mean you cannot turn the key, or the key turns but the latch won't work. As you know already, it should be the same key as the ignition, but there's always the chance it was changed. Usually the key cylinder is attached to a long flat rod that goes through the lock. If you can gain access to the trunk by removing the back seat you may be able to grab the flat rod with a vice grips and turn the rod from inside the trunk. Resist the desire to take a tire iron to the unit. That could be costly to fix.

"Oil filter cylinder. I took the cap off to clean and paint it. As I disassembled the cap, pieces of an ancient, flattened gasket fell off from underneath the bolt/nut... "

Usually a new gasket will come with the filter. Make sure all the old gasket came out of the groove before installing the new one.

"Air filter: No idea when it was cleaned last. Doesn't look nasty, but still. Should I clean it with kerosene or some other solvent? I had thought to soak it in a degreaser, rinse the hell out of it, then bake it at 250 degrees for a few hours to dry it out. Good idea or bad idea?"

Bad idea. Go to your local auto parts store and get a suitable pan that the air cleaner element will sit in. Then put some gasoline in the pan and swish the element ion this. Let the element drain while washing out the oil bath pan with the same gas. Refill the pan and replace the element. Any place that recycles used engine oil will probably take the contaminated gas oil mix. Use 50 weight oil in the bath.

"Side mirror: Ain't got one, even on the driver's side. It doesn't appear to be missing; there's noplace I can see in the frame/trim where one might have once been attached. That seems weird. I know they weren't common on the passenger side back then, but to not have one on the driver's side seems odd."

This was probably an option. There are several types available. Look at a site like Bob's for the possibilities. Bob's Automobilia

"Gas: From what I gather, I should be using a mid- to high-octane gas? What about a lead additive/subsitute? My cursory searching seems to indicate folks are split on whether or not to use additives."

Buicks do not require lead substitutes. But many people will use it. Try it both ways to see if it makes any significant difference, but from my perspective, it's not needed.. Your manual will tell you the proper octane to use.

Good luck with your car

[Cubelodyte]

Thanks for the input. It's much appreciated.

I do have the key- the previous owner was quite specific about which key to use, which is separate from the ignition, so I guess the lock was changed at some point. He told me to "push down as you turn", which I've tried fruitlessly. The thing just won't turn the lock. I'll fiddle with it some more.

With regards to the oil filter, I know about the gasket under the cap. What I was talking about fell out from under the bolt that holds the cap in place. I guess "washer" would have been a better word to use. I did get a new gasket with the filter I bought.

Thanks for the suggestion about the air filter; I'll do that.

I'm pretty sure I will end up joining the BCA, as well as my local chapter. It seems like a pretty good idea.

Again, thanks!

Edited September 11, 2010 by Cubelodyte (see edit history)

[JohnD1956]

I know this will sound silly, but the key on my 56 turns counter-clockwise for the trunk lock.

[Guest sconnors]

It's a Buick...nothing sounds silly!!

[Cubelodyte]

Heck, I'll try it.

... no love.

Edited September 11, 2010 by Cubelodyte (see edit history)

[Thriller]

Welcome aboard.

My Roadmaster doesn't have mirrors either - I haven't checked my '52 literature, but they were presumably options.

Spark plug covers were standard, but occasionally they would get misplaced or simply not put back on after changing / checking plugs. Who knows, maybe it is in the trunk.

For gas, low grade is fine. These engines aren't high compression, so detonation shouldn't be an issue. I would recommend you stay away from ethanol if you are able.

The general consensus on oil is that if the engine hasn't been recently rebuilt and you don't know what was previously used, do not use oil with detergents as they will loosen any crud that is now tucked away.

You got the right answer about engine paint earlier. Buick Green (or apple green) came out in 1953 on the V8s.

If you are interested, take a look at my Roadmaster at 1952 Buick Roadmaster Four Door Riviera Sedan - unfortunately, it is sitting in line awaiting restoration and the way the progress is going on the '29, it may be a long wait, although I am tempted to get it running again and bring it to a National meet to see if it can achieve an Archival award.

[Pete Phillips]

1952 Roadmasters are wonderful--I love them (I have a '50 Roadmaster). They are the last year for the 320 straight eight; the only year and model for the 4-barrel carburetor on the straight eight, and the first year for the optional power steering. The 320 is a wonderful engine, but watch out for cracks in the exhaust manifold. Which body style do you have? If it's a two-door hardtop, I will be turning a bright green with envy! Photos???? You've been given some pretty good advice above by all of the respondents. You will find a lot of parts sources and parts ads in the Buick club's monthly magazine.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

1949 Super Estate wagon

1950 Roadmaster 2-dr. hardtop

1959 Electra 2-dr. hardtop

1962 Electra 225 4-dr. hardtop

1963 Wildcat conv. 4-spd.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Again, WELCOME!!

All locks on your Buick should use the same key. Unless, of course, one or more have been changed. Does the one you are trying on the trunk work on the door or glove box? How about the ignition key? Does it work on anything else?

How about some pictures. We Like Pictures!!

Congratulations!!

Ben

[Cubelodyte]

As requested: pictures!

Nobody has to turn green with envy; it's not a two-door hardtop.

The previous owner was emphatic that only one of the three keys he gave me would open the trunk. It's a brown-colored key. I've tried the other two in the trunk to no avail.

Interestingly, the "trunk-only" key does lock/unlock the doors and glove box, as well as turn in the ignition! So now I don't know what to think, unless the lock is just plain stuck. I've lubed the key with WD-40 to hell and back but it hasn't had an effect.

With regards to oil, the previous owner has put detergent oils in it since he acquired it in 1990.

Can anyone set me straight on the filter element bolt "washer" business?

[JohnD1956]

I've never had one of these cars so I don't know for certain, but it stands to reason that there ought to be some form of seal at any bolt hole in the oil filter canister. The canister should be under pressure so the hole is sure to leak without one. Just what it is made of, however, would be pure speculation on my part. And I would guess that it was a rubber gasket capable of being manipluated hundreds of times.

If you cannot find one I would suggest going to your local Auto parts store and checking to see if they have any suggestions for replacements, and if not, I'd buy a sheet of gasket material ( the thickest one I could find) and I'd cut my own to see if it would work.

Did someone say the oil filter was an option on this model? If so, and the canister leaked, I'd consider removing it, and then going with a non detergent oil till I could get a replacement for that washer.

PS: you might even be able to find something suitable at a good hardware store. One of the ones in my area boasts about their selection of automobile hardware.

ps: Great car. That looks like a lot of fun. And your son looks like a future Buick car guy behind that wheel.

[Cubelodyte]

Gasket material, eh? I have a feeling I'll have to track some down. Thanks for the tip. I've looked in some of the local hardware stores, but so far, no luck.

[mrspeedyt]

the washer under the oil filter lid hold down bolt is a copper washer on my '41 desoto. and in my opinion always use detergent oil in an engine that has had detergent oil in it.... with a filter or not. just change it at 1000 miles if no filter.

[Malo48]

Just checked the filter I have; the bolt has a serrated shoulder just below the flats, and it's one piece with no washer between it and the cap.

The filter came in a box of parts when I got my '48, and as it turns out is the wrong one, although it looks identical to yours (bracket type, lines, printing on filter housing). Of course, mine could be missing the washer too, but it doesn't appear so. Hope this helps!

-Mike

PS: I should have added that the shoulder is about 1/4" thick, in the event you need to make a washer.

Edited September 12, 2010 by Malo48 (see edit history)

[Thriller]

I've never had one of these cars so I don't know for certain, but it stands to reason that there ought to be some form of seal at any bolt hole in the oil filter canister. The canister should be under pressure so the hole is sure to leak without one. Just what it is made of, however, would be pure speculation on my part. And I would guess that it was a rubber gasket capable of being manipluated hundreds of times.

If you cannot find one I would suggest going to your local Auto parts store and checking to see if they have any suggestions for replacements, and if not, I'd buy a sheet of gasket material ( the thickest one I could find) and I'd cut my own to see if it would work.

An alternative may be to try an O-ring instead.

[Cubelodyte]

Huh. Well, I'm going to try an o-ring; visits to three hardware stores and two auto parts places yielded zero flat rubber washers with an inside diameter of 3/4". Okay, that's technically not true- I did find a rubber washer at Ace with that inside diameter, but the outside diameter was some 3" wide and I didn't feel like cutting it down.

Also, has anybody had any experience with Big M Automotive? I was driving north of Sacramento yesterday and saw a big lot full of older cars. A little bit of digging with Google yielded their website. Seems like it might be well worth a little road trip.

[JohnD1956]

Big M Automotive? ... Seems like it might be well worth a little road trip.

Definitely looks like a road trip is in order. They may even have a 52 with an oil filter and you can get the entire canister.

Speaking of which, have you tried Ken Reeves for one? He is very knowledgeable and may be able to advise if you need a part and provide the same.

Wheatbelt Buick

[Cubelodyte]

Oh, I've got the entire canister- I removed it from the engine and finished painting it today. Not that I wouldn't still take that road trip.

I had an idea about the trunk lock- the previous owner put some extra parts in the trunk- hubcabs, a battery, and some other miscellaneous trim. Is it perhaps possible that these items shifted during transport and are now interfering with the lock? Are the lock mechanisms constructed in such a way that something might block a moving part from inside the trunk?

[Fr. Buick]

Big M is definitely worth a trip. If for no other reason than to take a look at any GM trunk lid from the 50's to see how the trunk lock works from the inside.

It could well be that yours is rusted solid and neeeds some good torq to get open. Keep trying to use the key while wiggling the trunk up and down if you can. But be careful, a brass key will only take so much.

If that doesn't work, take out the back seat. The bottom part lifts up from the bottom, the upper part takes a bit more work to undo attaching points. With a very long flat-head screw driver - You will see how when you visit Big M - reach in and turn the lock from the inside.

I hope this helps,

Doug Cook

[Cubelodyte]

So, hey, I did a thing. My first thing on the Roadmaster. I changed the oil (which required a breaker bar to get the plug off- that thing was stubborn. Then I removed, cleaned, repainted, and reassembled the oil filter element housing. I was pretty pleased with myself. It was a small thing, cosmetic, really, but hey, you gotta start somewhere, right?

[Cubelodyte]

Flush with success, I clambered behind the wheel and turned the key.

Hmmm. The engine turned over, but didn't catch. It had started reliably before. The battery is plenty strong. Wrurrr, wrurrr, wrurrr! But no ignition. I hadn't touched anything else on the engine besides taking off the air cleaner to figure out how it was assembled. I didn't think the oil change and the element housing refurb could possibly cause the engine to not start.

Then I remembered the gas gauge doesn't work; maybe I'd managed to run out of fuel. I went and got a couple of gallons and tried again. No love. So I went to have a sniff at the tailpipe to see if I could smell gas. I knew it was hanging too low because the transport driver scraped it when offloading the car.

[Cubelodyte]

No gas smell. But... uh, I don't think the tailpipe is supposed to look like this. It's not how it's illustrated in the shop manual, anyway. It seems that not only did the transport bozo scrape the tailpipe and break the rear hanger, he mashed it up when he offloaded it too steeply.

Never trust the Armenian mob to move your car.

Edited September 23, 2010 by Cubelodyte (see edit history)

[Cubelodyte]

Even though I'd been underneath the car I somehow managed to completely miss the tailpipe, and its strong resemblance to a wadded-up egg noodle. Obviously, it had to come out. I had to take a hacksaw to it to get it off. Broke a couple of rusted bolts in the process.

I'm 99% sure the pipe didn't look like this when it rolled off the line in Flint.

[Cubelodyte]

The tailpipe had come off the muffler easily enough (the connection, anyway), and I decided to take a look at the end of the muffler. Oh, good, a new broken thing; the top of the rear muffler hanger/slip joint/clamp thingy.

[Cubelodyte]

I removed both bolts that ostensibly keep that support held to the chassis (broke one in the process- the nut was utterly frozen on the threads). Since bolts are easy to come by, I wasn't worried. But the support didn't easily come loose from the chassis. I tried gently prying underneath the rubber strip/washer area on both sides, but they seem firmly adhered.

I'm unsure what to do at this point. I don't want to force them off only to find I've done the Wrong Thing. I haven't had any luck looking for a replacement from CARS or Bob's. Any ideas?

Also, I don't know why the engine won't start- oh, and the exhaust pipe that connects to the manifold is "wiggly". Should it be? I know that most of the exhaust system is meant to move around, but I don't know if the manifold connection should be semi-flexible as well.

At least I know where I'm beginning the restoration, I suppose. I'd thought I was going to start with the suspension (since it lists on the left side) but it looks like I'm starting with the exhaust system.

And I still can't get the trunk open. :mad:

[Malo48]

Wow, that is unfortunate about the exhaust. I think everyone here can sympathize with the cascading chain of things going amiss, for sure...my exhaust hanger repair turned into forthcoming transmission/differential work.

You should be able to pry the frame hangers w/rubber straps off of the undercoating without damaging anything. I took those off, cut off the old riveted straps and replaced them with straps I made from the universal exhaust hanger kits they sell at VatoZone. Take photos so that you remember how they're reinstalled.

Big plus, though: the oil filter looks great! How did you solve the washer problem?

[Cubelodyte]

VatoZone.

That's funny.

I ended up using an o-ring. Since the engine doesn't start, though, I don't know if it's an adequate solution.

You should be able to pry the frame hangers w/rubber straps off of the undercoating without damaging anything.

So... they're just stuck on there because the undercoating is acting like an adhesive of sorts?

[Malo48]

That's funny.

Thank you, I'll be here all week.

So... they're just stuck on there because the undercoating is acting like an adhesive of sorts?

Yeah, exactly. Mine took some persuasion to get off. I'm not sure about replacement hangers; I wasn't able to find remade ones either - I imagine a parts yard could find one if you need it.

[JohnD1956]

The oil filter looks great! Nice job!

"I removed both bolts that ostensibly keep that support held to the chassis (broke one in the process- the nut was utterly frozen on the threads). Since bolts are easy to come by, I wasn't worried. But the support didn't easily come loose from the chassis. I tried gently prying underneath the rubber strip/washer area on both sides, but they seem firmly adhered. "

The picture in this thread seems to show the washer in the side of the frame is some sort of bushing. I may be wrong about that but it would require closer inspection to determine. If it is a bushing ( metal sleeve going through the frame) you probably have to work that washer/bushing out gently prying each side a little at a time.

"Also, I don't know why the engine won't start-"

Lots of possibilities here. First I'd look for a broken wire from the negative terminal of the coil, to the distributor. Then I'd check the general area around each thing I removed and replaced. If nothing stands out then I'd try dumping a little bit of raw gas down the carb and kicking it over. Hopefully it would show somesign of life. If not though, I'd check back here with an update.

"oh, and the exhaust pipe that connects to the manifold is "wiggly". Should it be? "

No. But if you try to tighten it now you'll surely bust another bolt. I'd stick to one thing first, like getting the engine running again and checking the oil filter for leaks. Then I'd soak the manifold bolts in PB blaster everyday for a week and try to remove them in favor of some new one.

"And I still can't get the trunk open." :mad:

That is a real stumper. I would definitely try to get in through the cardboard behind the back of the rear seat.

[Cubelodyte]

Well, even though the upper front tailpipe bracket had rusted in two, I decided to put the clamp back together so the muffler wouldn't be swinging free from one end. I used new stainless bolts and nuts to reassemble it and got all the rust of the bottom half of the bracket.

I also found that the bolts connecting the exhaust pipe to the manifold looked new; they weren't rusted at all. I decided to tighten them up a bit. No worries so far.

I threw another gallon of gas in the tank, bringing my known fuel level up to three gallons, then put about a teaspoon and a half of gas down each open carburetor barrel. The engine caught! But then it died. I tried starting it immediately again- no luck. I put a tiny bit more gas down each barrel and it caught again.

So I'm guessing that the problem is with the fuel pump and/or lines? Any advice on where to start?

[JohnD1956]

If you have a compressor I'd pump it up to about 30 lbs and then blow the air back through the lines to the tank. If you hear no gurgling then you're either looking at a broken line or you're still below the pickup. Put another gallon of gas in and try again.

Of course, if you have gurgling right off then replace the fuel pump. Chances are it would go sooner than later anyhow.

[Cubelodyte]

I don't have a compressor, but I've been thinking about getting one for a while. Now I have an excuse!

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Cubelodyte, have you checked the fuel filter? Should be one just ahead of the carb.

Ben

[Cubelodyte]

Actually, no, I hadn't, because I wasn't sure where it was. There is a new-looking, small, aluminum cylinder of some kind on the line leading into the carb, which I assumed was a replacement filter, but wasn't sure, because it didn't look anything what I'd expect a filter from the 50s to look like (see attached).

[Cubelodyte]

Well, I checked the inline filter, which seemed clean as a whistle. I also checked the little brass filter on the carburetor housing itself, which was essentially spotless. So it isn't either of those filters (though I found that the the 70 series apparently has a third filter on the bottom of the fuel pump that I haven't gotten to yet; it's in a bit of an awkward spot.

I did get a compressor, though! Where should I apply the air to? Before or after the pump? I don't want to screw the pump up somehow by forcing air through it...

[JohnD1956]

I would apply the air on the tank side of the fuel pump. Keep the pressure low. Where's that third filter you mentioned?

[Cubelodyte]

On page 84 of the '52 Shop Manual (section 3-7c) it says there's an additional screen in the bowl of Series 70 fuel pumps.

[JohnD1956]

So it's internal. I would not blow compressed air through the fuel pump in any dirction. Have you checked the engine oil for the presence of gasoline, indicating a torn fuel pump diaphram?

[Cubelodyte]

Not specifically. When I drained the oil from the crankcase a couple of weeks ago I didn't detect any gasoline smell. One thing was kind of weird, though- the oil in the filter element housing was a kind of dark olive color. What drained out of the crankcase looked just like plain dirty dark oil.