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1933 Coupe engine trouble


Guest Juergen

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Guest Juergen

Hallo,

I told here some weeks ago about my 66 S Sport Coupe. First I had oil in the coolingsystem because oil temperatur regulator was broken. It is repaired and now works well. But now I have a lot of water in the oil, it is like a milky white cream. I changed the head gasket, changed the oil, in the head no crack was visible. Unfortunately no positive result. The same problem no oil, but a milky white sauce of oil and water. In worst case I need a new head. That is my problem. In germany it is impossible to find a head. Do I have a chance to get one in the scene of american buick enthusiasts ? Please let me know.

Thank you

Juergen

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Couldn't your crack also be in the block? My head is currently at a local machine shop (1938), and I noticed they offer a pressure test to search for cracks in the head. There are techniques used on the block as well. Depending on the location of the crack, welding may be an option.

You may wish to consult with a good machine shop.

Jeff

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Juergon,

Sorry to hear about your latest problem, just when the weather is good and you should be driving the car. If you cannot get it fixed, I will see what I can do to see if another engine can be located. I would think that might be easier, but more costly then just the head if it cannot be repaired.

John

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Guest Juergen

Hallo John. hallo Jeff,

thank you for the infos. It´s really sad, that changing of the head gasket was not sucessful. Anyway I´ll make a pressure test to see what´s going on. John, I think also looking for another engine is the better way, although my engine is running very good and smoothly. I am afraid about the problems of shipping and of course the costs, you are so far away. I´ll report how things developes.

Regards fromm sunny and warm germany

Juergen

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Hi Juergen,

Have you thought about trying one of the block/head sealants which are available? A brand name that comes to mind is Irontite but I believe some vastly improved products are now available.

This may be a temporary ( although these fixes claim to be permanent ) remedy in your circumstances. It will no doubt take some time to source another motor and have it rebuilt. In the meantime, and seeing as how you say your motor runs so well, if you could just keep the water out of the oil you could keep using the car until the yet to be sourced and rebuilt motor is ready.

Another area to check! Take the engine side covers off and make sure the water jacket at the top of the barrels hasn't corroded and is allowing water to run into the oil system, ( in behind the push rods ) there are also a couple of core plugs in there which may be corroded. Would hate to see you pull a motor if all it needed was a new core plug!!!

Good luck.

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Guest Juergen

Hallo,

yes I tested the otr for leaking, it´s ok, but when I changed the head gasket in the second cylinder there was a plenty of water, after fitting the head and so on..and after a short running, the same problem, water coming out of the spark plug opening (?) Is it possible water coming through the core plug into the cylinder ?

Thank you

Juergen

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Juergen,

Check the inlet and exhaust ports in the cyl. head.

Cracks in the exhaust port or inlet would let water into

the cyl. that had water in it when you took the head off.

Good Luck,

JB

22-6-55 Sport Touring

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Guest Juergen

Hallo,

yes, I think a crack is between the water channel and the valve port- terrible- so water comes into the cylinder.

50jetback, yes, I´ll try a chemical sealant to keep the water out of the oil for a time, but I am not sure to find an engine or a head.

Regards Juergen

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  • 1 month later...

Try to find someone who can magnaflux the head. That will show any and all cracks.

One of the repairs that works is to pin the crack. A hole is drilled at the end of the crack and a tapered pin inserted. The next hole is drilled partly into the previously inserted pin and into new metal on the crack and another pin insertd. When the entire crack is pinned, the head can be surfaced. The head can be sealed with a ceramic sealer to be sure that there are no leaks.

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There must be a good shop who is able to weld the head/block in Germany, we have a good one here in Czech Republic too, they welded head for my 1928 Master Six (2 cracks between exhaust channels and valve guides), pressurized, leak tested etc. It is not cheap though... If you search ebay and like and be patient enough I do believe you will find the good replacement head and / or block in US as well. This could be also costly becuse of shipping, they are hell heavy..... Good Luck Josef

Edited by pepcak (see edit history)
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Guest Juergen

Hallo,

in the meantime the head is repaired. I found a shop who did it well and not cheap. It was less difficult than I thought. Now the Coupe is running perfectly. I have much fun with it .

Thank you all

Juergen

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