reatta subframe bushings

[william_powell]

hello,

I have a 1991 reatta and it is making a cluncking noise going over bumps, everything looks good under the car except the subframe bushings, does anyone know where I can get replacements? This may not be the problem could be motormounts?

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

Bill

[KDirk]

Bill,

These can be ordered from a GM dealer. You'll need 6 bushings, plus you will almost certainly need new bolts (they get seized into the bushing from years of rust) and will also need the upper bushing washers (kind of a dished metal washer) because these are usually rusted away badly from age.

I hate to induce fear and paranoia, but it is a nasty job to replace these, I did mine a few months back and it was pretty bad. And, I don't say that lightly, because I do all my own car repairs and the time and frustration of doing this probably breaks the top 10 worst car projects I have undertaken due to everything being rusted/seized etc.

I don't have the current part # at my disposal, I will see if I can turn it up and post it here later. If you use the forum's search feature, there was a thread about it within the past 4-5 months, I believe the part # is in that thread somewhere.

Also, if your front suspension is at all questionable, I recommend doing all that at the same time while it is all torn apart.

KDirk

[Ronnie]

The cradle bushing part numbers can be found here .

If there anything that needs to be corrected or updated let me know.

[Roadster90]

Bill, I am experiencing a weird noise. Out of curiousity, how many miles do you have on your 91, and your general geographic location please so I can compare?

Nic

[KDirk]

Ronnie,

Thanks for that. You saved me from digging through piles of dealer parts invoices. Better still, I got to avoid using the search function which we all know and love so much.

Incidentally, the long cradle mount bolts I refer to have a newer part number that supercedes the original # for the Reatta. I need to see if I can find that and pass it along to you for inclusion in the article. In fact, the upper washers may have a newer part # as well.

Ok, maybe I'll be looking through those invoices after all.

KDirk

[william_powell]

KDrik,

Thanks for the info, yeah I know they are hard to replace I did the rear ones from a caddie I found in the junk yard but don't think they were much better than the ones I replaced. I had to use a hole drill to get one mount bolt that broke I somehow got a large washer and bolt up there and made it work. I didn't replace the front ones they look very hard to replace but gonna try. I have just replaced the front struts I thought that was causing problems, everything else looks tight.

Ronnie,

Thanks for the info on the part nrs. I called the local dealer and he said they were discontinued, I told him they were used on several other GM cars but he said they were all discontinued, will try on line to get some.

Nic,

The noise sounds like it is comming more from the pass side and is a cluncking noise. Could be subframe mounts or motor mounts? Just gonna try one thing at a time. My 91 has 175k miles and running strong.

Bill

[Guest Greg Ross]

Is the noise definitely coming from the front end?

When my rear suspension assembly encountered corrosion failure there were grinding/ clunking sounds coming from the rear end!

[Guest Bill_Boro]

If it is a hobby car take your time.

Soak the threads repeatedly, on a daily basis with Kroil, Nut Buster, Liquid Wrench or a similar product and then lightly tap bolt head with a hammer, repeat this process for a few days.

Afterwards,try torquing alternating between just a degree or two CW then a degree or two CCW to see if it will break loose. Repeat soak etc if necessary until bolt breaks loose. Your wait and taking the slow approach will be rewarded.

Rush it and you may have to cut into the frame/body.

[Guest ekvh]

If you cannot get the bolts loose, and one of them on each side is inaccessible for spraying, there is a tool that some better body shops now have that is a magnetic heater. They can put it on the bolt and apply the heat and only heat the bolt, nothing else. My mechanic friend works for a company that also owns one of these in their body shop. They don't even need the torch. If you can't get them to loosen up, try this. If you use the gmparts direct site, they do not include the bolt anymore. I need to find one the right length still. The one I have in there now is a little shorter than the original.

[Roadster90]

May be a silly question, but does the Rivi have the exact same set up....and repair problems please?

[Barney Eaton]

From underneath, the Riviera, Toronado, Seville, Eldorado, and Reatta are pretty much the same.

I just put a gas tank in a Reatta that we salvaged from a Eldorado.

When new, the different divisions, "tuned" the bushings for their car. When it comes to replacement parts from GM, they usually drop the low usage part numbers and replace them with the common part number.

[Roadster90]

Thanks Barney. What I was after is if the Rivi and or other models are close or the same in design then repair of these bushings should be "commonplace", or a repair that the better body shops and frame shops should be familar with. After reading all of the horror stories on the forum, if I have an issue with the bushings ..... the car will be visiting a shop for the fix .

[Guest Greg Ross]

Nic,

Yes, the subframe on each of the models Barney listed would be escentially identical. And you're probably right, there's very likely good experience out there with bushing replacement.

Also bear in mind this is not just a "Salt Belt" issue. Corrosion certainly accelerates the deterioration but I'm pretty sure these bushings will deteriorate in the warm climates as well. Hopefully the bolts will come out a bit easier though!

[waltmail]

Is this the part in discussion?

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm

GM PART # 1627359

CATEGORY: All

PACK QTY: 1

CORE CHARGE: $0.00

GM LIST: $30.93

OUR PRICE: $18.35

My 89 is making very bad clunking noises. Has anyone tried Espo Springs and Things? They list Riviera parts through '91.

http://www.espo.com/

I bought sway bar bushing kit from them quite awhile back.

[Roadster90]

Thanks Barney and Greg....I have a somewhat relieved feeling . When the time comes though, I am sure I will feel FRIGHT again when the cost is determined ....

[waltmail]

While we are on the subject of bushings and clunking, I need to replace my Strut assmblies. I have a new pair in hand. Anyone have a write up?

Also, while installing the struts, are these the mounting/bushing assemblies that need to be included in the install? Anything else suggested?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...c1019911k203035

[Ronnie]

Strut and End Link Replacement Instructions are here .

[waltmail]

Thank you sir. I now have that site bookmarked. Never knew it existed. That thing is as good as a manual.

[Ronnie]

I'm glad you find the site useful.

[Guest VTRex]

I know I'm raising an old post from the dead but I have this issue as well. I had the front sub-frame isolators (insulators) replaced last month but nothing has changed. My car makes like a clunking sound and if I hit a bump the wrong way or maybe a bit too fast it kind of feels like the car is pitching sideways. Like skating sideways on the chassis.

Feels like bad dampening (struts) but I'm not familiar with this shift sideways.

I've purchased the red swaybar bushings but before I take my car in to have those as well as new struts put in I was wondering if anyone has an idea what could be wrong.

[Bushwack]

Just a thought...does this clunking occur when you have the brakes applied (coming to a stop)?

[Guest VTRex]

No. Definitely over bumps. Sharp bumps. Like bridge expansion joints.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

Motor mounts? Check the dog bone, the front mount with the aluminum bracket and the tranny mount (on the back left as facing the car). These are the three I have heard make the noise you are describing.

[bhclark]

Just a thought...does this clunking occur when you have the brakes applied (coming to a stop)?

I have a single clunk at this point....what does it indicate?

Subframe bushings have all been replaced and I just did the dogbone as well.

Thanks,

[DAVES89]

If it is a upshift/downshift clunk I would look at the vacuum lines to the transmission modulator. BTW you really should start a new post so you can better describe your particular problem.

[Machiner 55]

Brian,

If the "clunk" showed up after the sub-frame work was done, I'd suspect a loose motor or trans. mount.

They may have loosened or removed one to gain access to work. I don't think the job requires that it be done but that doesn't mean they didn't do it.

If the "clunk" was there before, no telling what it could be. I had a right rear caliper bracket come loose one time. Made a clunk when applying the brake.

Also, a broken exhaust hanger will allow the pipe to bump against the body. It's hard to tell not being there.

Just thought of something else... maybe they left one of the insulator bolts loose. Highly unlikely but you can never assume everything that needed done was, in fact, done.

Once had the experience of having a wheel almost come off my Datsun 280ZX after having Midas perform a brake job on it. They had to buy me a brand new rim because the lug nuts came loose and the lug threads "filed" the bolt holes to an egg shape before I could get the car stopped. Boy, was I pissed!

PS. I agree with Dave about starting a new thread.

John F.

Edited January 1, 2014 by Machiner 55 (see edit history)

[bhclark]

Thanks, I'll check out the above suggestions and start a new post if necessary.

Clunk was there before the work....I was expecting the subframe work to fix it.

[Ronnie]

Give is some specific details about when you hear the clunk.

Does it do it when sitting still with your foot on the brake and you shift back and forth between Drive and Reverse?

Just when downshifting while slowing down to 1st or 2nd gear?

Or maybe just when you hit the brakes?

As they say; "The devil is in the details".

[bhclark]

During braking, near the end of the stop.

I can't tell if it's a downshift clunk, frame clunk, caliper, etc.

I have not noticed it when shifting into gear.

[Ronnie]

If it's a downshift clunk Dave gave good advice on checking modulator vacuum lines. If it has the small adjustable modulator it could be out of adjustment. Downshift clunk usually occurs when gradually slowing down and you're not applying much brake. It rarely occurs when you're hard on the brakes during a stop.

[Guest Corvanti]

i totally agree with Dave and Ronnie as my '89 had the same problem a couple of months ago. Dave advised me to check the vacuum modulator/lines, and Ronnie helped with where to check.

here's what i found:

after replacing the far left rubber vacuum line - the left two are attached to the modulator - the transmission problem was solved! :cool: i went on to check all the vac lines and replaced all that were cracked (like the far right one), and used carburetor cleaner with the engine at idle. there will be an increase of idle speed if there is a vac leak.

sure beats buying/installing another trans!

hope this helps!

[bhclark]

Thanks for the photo Corvanti!

I know exactly where those are and will check them as soon as the temperature gets back above zero. Next week is going to be bitter cold here.

Thanks!