Bob Zetnick

Looks like the 'long oval' / 'football-shaped' one is the winner.......forgot this was already covered in a post a few years ago!

I'm looking to get my bumpers chrome plated and have different kinds of bumper clamp backing plates....I've got repro that are skinny rectangular, have bought some w/ an original set of bumpers that are large rectangular and also have long oval that came with my car back in '71......anyone know if one style is proper to a DA 6?....maybe they used whatever was available in the parts bin?

Thanks! I've asked to join both groups too!

John, thanks. I was afraid of that....I may have to figure out another way as that rubber may not work w/ my thicker glass and narrow channel. I'll look again at the spec Dave sent.

Yes, John, I just measured the channel...it doesn't seem like it would fit , but maybe with a little force and silicone spray???........ I hope it doesn't go on the inside of the channel as I'd hate to take apart glass from channels at this point.

Dave, thanks...maybe I am not explaining well. I am assuming the metal glass channel fits into this rubber channel w/ the lip. Since the rubber channel is U-shaped then I would think you'd have to cut away part of the rubber channel to allow for the riser arm keyway even if the lip faced outward (the lip itself would not be cut, just the backside of the 'U' shape).........I am hoping this rubber doesn't fit INSIDE the metal channel as it wouldn't work w/ the thickness of glass in it (matches original thickness) and I used a glass setting tape inside the channel. I hope that makes better sense.....I guess I'm wondering if the rubber you showed was to be used inside or fitted around the metal channel.

Thanks Dave. I saw something similar at Myers http://www.myersearlydodge.com/image.php?ws_page=chassis.php&ws_image=MVC-715F.JPG , but because of the large length of the horizontal keyway for riser arm it seems you'd have to cut away a lot of rubber where it might be unusable....this is assuming the entire channel fits into this rubber. John, the windshield was a T-rubber.....I am using the sponge seal at the top of all windows incl. the quarter windows...the original top of window rubber was a hard rubber on my car, but this sponge rubber is what I found that vendors have for this purpose so I used it.

Thanks...yes, I have holes for drainage at the bottom of the doors, but that won't help issues with the quarter windows....keiser31, yes, have heard of "cat whiskers", but not sure I can get for this car...I did get "whiskerin channel" from Myers for the vertical channels.

I've got a 4-door sedan and am starting to reinstall the side windows. I've had safety glass made and the glass is installed with setting tape into the bottom channels. I am installing a top seal and the side channels (w/ felt)....my question is that I'm wondering if there should be something else at the bottom of the window to seal the window against the body...seems like a gap ready for water to get it. If so, a photo or supplier's name is helpful...Thanks in advance!

Will anything on page 43 of this catalog work? http://www.restorationstuff.com/pdf/RestorationSupplyCompany.pdf

Thank you!!!

Does anyone have photos of the interior tack wood for the upholstery in a '29 DA 6? I think this is 3/4" material routed out at top of doors. Also, door posts look like routed in keyhole plate hangs wood from screw at door posts? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

Thanks for the replies! I have the new cables already. Yes, one of the pulls has the hole...or at least it was visible and easy to replace. The others just seem like the cable is part of the pull, but maybe going about this in reverse and if it's soldered in, I can heat it up somewhat to melt solder and remove cable....the holes may be under all the solder...I'll see what I can do, just didn't want to ruin the pull! Again, thanks!

I've got 4 dash pulls on my '29 DA. The cables are original, very rusty and one had broken before I got the car.....I have new cables, but want to keep the original pulls. One was easy in that the cable folded back around a hole in the pull...the other 3 pulls look attached to the cable....welded? Any ideas to replace these cables?...I don't want to start into them w/ a lot of force and destroy the pulls.

Thanks John! I couldn't get large enough or detailed photos to see. I can see no rubber at the top of this dash, though it seems like the perfect place for it ( you can see the thin line where something might fit between the top of the mounted dash piece and the body at curvature of bottom windshield, just to right of steering wheel) My car didn't have any there when I started, but doesn't mean there was none originally, so just wanted to check.

Is there a rubber strip towards bottom of windshield and mounted under dash molding? I hopefully have correct rubber around perimeter of windshield, but just above dash seems a perfect spot for weatherstripping too...anyone have a photo of dash at windshield or know of a molding there? Thanks!

Love it!

dc-8dave, the guys doing my body work were trying to take the piece off and it disintegrated....don't even have pieces as they threw them out...if you have something not too bad that I could fix it would be worthwhile.

30DodgePanel, thanks, a Victory may work....here's a few photos....again, about 20"long and 3/4" wide. The bottom end is closed and the cowl light, top end is open to allow small carriage bolts to mount it to body. The slot that shows at the top end goes the full length of the piece....you can also see there is a shallow "crown" to the piece. I am hoping all Mopar cars from this year / model would use some of the same parts incl. this trim.

Does anyone have a piece of the chrome trim at one side of the cowl that I could buy? It is about 20" long and 3/4" wide. Other years and Chrysler products may work. Thanks!

I don't know how Chickasha, OK. does it, but they seem to have all sorts of prewar parts and cars. I try to go every spring. I used to always go to Pate in the 70s...I saw my first Detroit Electric (all original) and remember 2 restored '22 Studebaker tourings for sale...among many other cars and parts...got a lot of parts for my '29 Dodge (still have it). Last time I went (maybe 5 years ago at Arlington Stadium, I did see a '17 Chevy 490 and a 1911 Cadillac! It would be nice to have another prewar venue in DFW...I know vendors for Model Ts and A's could be well represented as well as early Chevrolet, maybe that's a core to start building a prewar area around...maybe some Chickasha vendors could come in too since your event is later in the year....like Terry said above, no crafty, non-automotive stuff...I do like the old gas station stuff though!

Bought my '29 Dodge w/ paper route money in '71...from '73-'77 I did a restoration the best I could w/ my low funds and drove her everywhere, including to college.....she sat for about 20 years during career and several moves and I started doing a 2nd restoration on her in '08. Here's a photo of her just last week getting back from paint & bodywork. I still have chrome, upholstery and other small things to do and hope to have her finished for more driving by the end of the year.

These are cool! As a kid I'd always laugh at the American Motors Rebel commercial from '69.

alsancle, I took out the roof insert, the interior and took off most of chrome and fenders , then they took the car on its chassis. They took off doors, cowl vents and any trim I couldn't get off due to rust. The car is now back on the chassis and doors fit perfectly. They also have many contacts who do things like the chrome and interiors. I am no master car restoration guy (I admire those who are and who can even create their own new parts!), but I do like to do a lot of things myself, so have been rebuilding assemblies I can just attach to the car once I get it back. The guys at this shop are really great and truly want to do it right....they will be helping w/ my steering wheel restoration and safety glass / rebuilding window channels in the near future.

I was quoted around $18,000 too, but I did have a lot of rusted through spots where panels had to be recreated. My shop charges $60.00 / hr. I swallowed that bitter pill as they were highly recommended for paint & body....and they are a hot rod shop!!! (but had worked on a '16 Cadillac) Anyway, they have done such a beautiful job and have been very careful w/ my old girl......I hope to have her back in the garage in 10 days.