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Bob Zetnick

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Everything posted by Bob Zetnick

  1. Thanks all for the great ideas and sources. I guess I was so focused on rubber that I couldn't think of other things. Anyway, I have a number of directions here.
  2. Thanks for the photo! Looks very nice!
  3. That's a good idea! I know that belting is strong.
  4. I'd love to see them when you have the time...I've see leather ones on the little "footman loops".....my rubber ones are T-shaped....the "T" fits inside the door and screwed down ends are secured w/ a metal piece and 2 screws.
  5. Does anyone know where I can get reasonably priced, steel /rubber door check straps? I've seen them all rubber, but the wind caught a door and broke it and a door hinge. I remember taking apart my car years ago and they were originally made of thin steel and covered in rubber. Steele Rubber seems to have these, but $175 - $200 a pair! Just wondered if anyone else knew where I could get them somewhat cheaper.
  6. Thanks for photo. My contact doesn't look like that....mine is more like the end of a wire with some solder in it. I'm sure part of my problem along with bad wire insulation.
  7. If I remember you have a '29.....I have a '29 DA sedan so setup may be different. My horn wire runs from button at steering, down to Clum switch and out to horn. I had an issue with horn not working at times to sounding off when I turned the wheel. I tested the horn and it was fine...I have a 20A fuse at the amp gauge which is what was recommended. Temporarily I've grounded horn at the firewall and used a toggle switch to operate horn. Pretty sure my problem is at horn button contact...or insulation is worn through at horn wire and contacts w/ metal tube down steering column
  8. Could it be a 1912 Premier? I know my photo is a 7-passenger touring, but on the Model 4-40 the front and rear fenders seem to match, headlights and cowl lights seem to match, the upper door panels seem to match (though in my photo the panels are picked out w/ pinstriping vs. the contrasting, painted molding on original photo)....also radiator shape w/ round emblem.....so many makes at the time, so a little hard to pinpoint.
  9. The curve of the cowl, minimal belt molding, sunvisor design, hood louvers and especially the 4 hinges at the front door make me think this is a 1923 Buick....you could get the disk wheels for these in lieu of the wooden wheels shown. Agreed w/ others this is very 1920s clothing. Photo was shot w/ the Palace of Fine Arts in San Francisco as background.
  10. Well done! She's beautiful! I bought my DA 50 years ago too. I have to remember to wear tennis shoes and not clunky hiking boots as when I press on the brake many times I'll be revving it up w/ the gas pedal at the same time.
  11. https://www.bobsspeedometer.com/ should be able to help.
  12. I used heavy paper gasketing.....about as thick as a magazine cover....think I used 2 layers
  13. Very interesting article. I had no idea early all-steel bodies were so problematic.
  14. I had rust issues w/ my valves too even though I had an oily coat on them too...turns out my head gasket was leaking.
  15. She starts! I guess it was starter "hang-up"....I took starter off and thought while it's off I'll test it and it worked fine......put everything back together and she started right up. Thanks for all the advice! Ready to drive this weekend!
  16. Yes, new, proper size battery cables for 6v and have checked connections.
  17. So, I got an extra cable and have been using it to test grounds for the starter....I also used a test light to to check circuits and haven't found a problem yet. I looked at a Model A video regarding starter "hang-up" where the starter gear can jam into the flywheel ring gear. I loosened the starter enough and thought that I could take it off and check it. Not being a mechanic or electrician I thought I'd ask a stupid question....if I take the starter off to check it I know the hot wire will go to the contact, but do I have to ground the starter case or is the grounded battery enough of a ground?....does that make sense? I just didn't know if I needed more of a ground from battery to starter w/ battery jump cables involved. Thanks!
  18. Thanks Jack! I remember you using that quote on another one of my electrical problems! Your headlight story may also be my intermittent lighting problem. When I got my car I had the "web strap" ground going from battery to frame....just wanted a cut-off switch this time. When I got my car running again in 2014 a mechanic and I were working on it and the starter would shut off and get warm, so he grounded the starter to the transmission and all was fine......the guys doing the rest of my wiring took this ground off.....I've run the car many times since I got it on the road in 2018 without problems, but I'm going to try your grounding idea. Thanks!
  19. Thanks, I'll try that. Does a second ground need to as heavy a wire as the main ground?
  20. Thanks, I will check more connections this weekend. My ground cable runs from battery to disconnect switch on firewall, then runs from that switch to a rear starter bolt that mounts starter to rear engine frame member. ...major connections look good, but will check again. That said, car was working fine for 2 years until last week and wondered if it had something to do with lighting problem....that may be a different issue.
  21. When I checked again this morning I turned on the fuel pump and when I pulled the starter, the clicking sound of the pump slowed a lot.......never really noticed that before......may have to take off starter and check.
  22. Yep, battery and starter switch looks good....I'll check some others.......still don't know why it seems intermittent.
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