Bob Zetnick

I gave my cast iron one to Jason (a.k.a. 1930) Not sure how rare they are. Myers Early Dodge carries this repro.....pricey, but it's in aluminum.

I remember that too. I think it was Jason a.k.a.'1930' that wanted to do that and I haven't seen him on this board for several years. I have a 4-dr DA sedan...I think idrjoe_sandiego has a phaeton if I remember correctly. I think the Dodge Brothers Club has a list of members and their cars too.

I've seen a couple of old photos where the heater is on the right side and the radio is in front of the gear shift where it doesn't take up any leg room.

Don't know if this post for a '29 DA will help.

Thanks Doug! Very helpful! Never noticed those two flat spots before...it's a little over half, so I may add a little....I'll check the oil line...I think this car sat for several years before I bought it.

I bought a '24 Dodge last Feb. and noticed there wasn't a dipstick. The car runs fine, but how do you know if you're a quart low? Did there used to be markings on the float pin that comes up through the block?....also, my oil pressure guage seems to be permanently at the 6 psi mark.....I'm hoping just cleaning out the line may help....also, I saw a post about the screw at the back of the block where you blow out the hole w/ compressed air....if there are other thoughts please let me know....I have a '29 DB, but this 4 cylinder is another animal! Thanks!

Thank you all! Didn't know tightening that rod did anything for the headlight and didn't know that bezel was threaded! Also, I'll make sure the lens has a nice pillow in a box below it in case it decides to drop!!!

My headlight is loose on my '24...seems like an easy question, but have only had the car a few months and don't want to break anything. I don't see an exterior bolt to tighten the headlight on the vertical mounting and wondered if I have to get into the headlight shell. If so, there are no bolts / screws mounting headlight rim / lense to shell....does the rim just pop off? Thanks.

That "rope" is called windlace. It is available through many old car sources, but usually has a foam core. Over time that foam core becomes brittle with age and when pressed can turn into a powder....it's happened to 2 cars I've owned. My '29 originally had some kind of "rope" core, so for it's new windlace I went to the fabric store and actually bought "rope" (in the same diameter) along w/ a vintage looking, durable fabric that matches my mohair interior. Just sew the fabric around the rope leaving about 1" of extra flap so you can tack the windlace to the body of car.

I don't have any answers on your Standard Six, but I know my '29 DA as well as other cars of that vintage have had holes drilled into the bottom edge of the dash. When a component wore out or an accessory was added it was common for a toggle switch to be added along that bottom edge. At one time my horn went out and the vacuum tank disgarded and I had a switch for the horn and a switch for an electric fuel pump.

I've got both of these on my '24...the toolbox bolts onto bottom of runningboard and within the retracting runningboard luggage rack on the other side of car I keep a vintage picnic basket that holds a gal. of water and a small fire extinguisher.

My cowl lights were on seperately from headlights; they were never on at once.

Looks like Myers Early Dodge has them for $16.

Several examples of what the Yale flat keys look like. You may be able to use a magnifying glass to see if any numbers are stamped on the inside or outside of the lock mech, or the latch itself, that may point you to the correct key code for the exact notch you need. Thanks 30Dodge Panel....looks like I don't have the innards for the lock....didn't know it was a Yale....maybe I can get a whole new lock assembly.

Thanks John, I think you're right ...the guts are out of it.

Rick, the highly recommended locksmith here destroyed my ignition lock on my '29 DA without even a "I'm sorry" ...luckily, a small file cabinet lock I bought I could rework for my ignition. John, here are photos of my '24 showing toolbox, exterior, interior and top views of lock. If you have or know of the blank used that would be great...also, if you have a key blank for exterior door handle for '29 DA that would be great too!...hate to take it to same locksmith!

Thanks Doug, I didn't know......I only saw a blurb about tools in the owner's manual, but not about the box itself.

I've got a '24 Dodge w/ a toolbox mounted on the runningboard. I don't know if this was an accessory offered or an aftermarket item. If this was offered by Dodge does anyone know the key blank number or what it looks like? I'd like to keep this box locked up as the car is a driver and I do have tools in it. I hate to add a hasp lock to this...if anyone has another way to lock it without destroying the look I'd be interested in that info too. Thanks!

(And if its of any further help - don't think this has been specified yet - stop the engine by turning off the vac tank tap and letting the carb run dry, switch the ignition off after the engine has stopped. As to flooding, prime suspect would be the needle/seat float mechanism, the engine will flood and continue to do so whilst the vac tank tap is open, there is nowhere else for the fuel to go, heed Jon`s warning !!) Good idea! Thanks! Will check needle valve and filter this a.m.

Thanks for the replies.... cahartley, I will check that needle valve...vacuum tank was rebuilt after the fire too. I've only had the car in my garage for 2 days, so haven't checked, but I don't think there's a fuel filter; might have to put one on. Jon, yes, I have been turning off the shut-off valve....my lesson that I learned 4 months ago was to always carry a fire extinguisher in the car!

Mike and Doug, thanks, carb was rebuilt after fire and it happened to them only one time....the guys would start it every day to move it and there were no problems for a month, except that one time. I have a call into them, but the carb guy is out today. There is no electric fuel pump; just the vacuum tank. I will look at the needle valve. Anyway, I was going to try to get car inspected tomorrow, so my nephew could ride in it next week; that's why I brought it up on this board for the knowledge you have.....just don't want another fire.

I recently purchased a 1924 Dodge. The same day it was delivered it had an engine fire and I just got it back a few days ago. I started her up yesterday and about 1/2 cup of gas seemed to come out of the float top. I had the valve from vacuum tank in the off position overnight and turn it off every time I turn off the engine. Carb and everything else has been rebuilt and screws are tight on float cover. After drying the gas off and letting it sit I started car again and no problem. This morning I started again and no problem. I called the shop that repaired the car after the fire and they said that happened to them once after trying to start the car several times and it had flooded. My question is is there something I can adjust to keep gas from running over block or is this what happens if carb is full and flooded? I looked at manual and saw nothing about an "overflow"....anyway, after one engine fire I don't want another...any help is appreciated.

Does anyone have a photo of a tire jack that came w/ a 1924 Dodge? IThe manual shows the tools, but not the jack. Thanks!

Thanks for taking the time to look Todd! Yeah, I wish I took more photos too!

Thanks Doug for the photos!