Xander Wildeisen

Here is a link to a ebay ad, look at the other cars in the pictures. I know some of them are for sale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-Studebaker-dictator-cloth-/201701562289?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2ef65997b1%3Ag%3A2XcAAOSwA3dYErYO&item=201701562289&nma=true&si=q7eoOeDKorlNnKduBsoOss6zr3k%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I would agree with what you said, but I think it is relative to what you enjoy. On the street rod/custom side there is a real sense of creativity when building a car, that I do not think is there on the restoration side. If a person has the funds, it can be a lot of fun to go through the building process when you are working with a shop that is looking out for your best interest. People do not think twice about dropping money on hunting trips, flying or travel if that is what they enjoy. Some people do enjoy the building process. And these cars really do not take that long to move through the process if attention is focused on the project and you are working with skilled trades. I have seen people change their mind on building a car because of an honest conversation I have had with them on costs involved. And I think it is a good thing. Yes I can lose a build job, but that customer can buy a car from a dealer/private seller and have a good feeling going into the collector car market knowing they did not go for a ride and get hosed. If they then meet other people with cars, I am sure they will talk good about the people who were honest with them. And that may bring in a build job down the road. I see way to many shops misled people into thinking the build can be done for under this much. Only to find out once the project starts you pass that amount fast. Now the customer is unhappy with the whole thing, and everyone suffers even the car. I have seen shops selling off the customers original parts and keeping the money. Leaving the owner with a half finished car that has no value because now it is a project committed to a course of build. They end up selling out of it for pennies on the dollar, and in some cases to friends of the car shop. I think you would have a lot more interest in this hobby/industry if honesty was involved and projects got hammered out. Resto rods and mild customs can be built in a timely order if you just follow a good building process. I think if quality build/restoration shops have a net work of quality dealers, the customers best interest can be looked out for, no matter what direction they choose to go. I think to many people have been burned, and the negative effects can be seen right now in the hobby/industry. I have said before that this hobby/industry would benefit greatly if it were to focus some attention on some of the problems that are out there.

Value is also driven by another industry, insurance. The market, just like all markets can be manipulated. Fads and trends can all be created. What is in demand one year, fades out the next. Buy what you like and enjoy, buy quality or build/restore a car to a high level. If you know what you are doing it does not take much more effort to make it nice. Start with a quality project (getting harder to find) if you start with something that is half there. Are you really surprised that you are in it a ton of money? Older restorations are great buys, if done correct and cared for, they still show very well. There are great buys on cars from the 1930's-60's. 1946-48 Plymouth Coupes have very nice styling and can be bought for very little money. Two door sedans from the 30's can be found at affordable prices. Mid 50's Desoto's are over looked, great cars. 1965-67 Buicks, again great styling. One of the biggest problems I see here, new people getting involved cars. Get wrapped up with shops that do not explain to them what their options are, and the best way to invest their money. Costs involved in building/restoring a car should be explained, so the customer knows what to expect. This hobby/industry would boom around here if more opportunities in different areas of motor sports could get established. Addressing some of the behind the scene problems that go on, would have a huge impact on making it better for every one involved.

If your fathers old cars run and drive. Drive one around while you are dealing with his stuff. You will be making memories behind the wheel of a old car, and striking up conversations with people in your travels. Will help in selling some of them as well. I have found that if you get behind the wheel of a old car, and find a road with old farm houses, fields and farms. It is just like driving when that car was new. And you can tune out the rest of this worlds BS while driving at a speed of 35 miles an hour, with a smile on your face.

My brother bought a 1959 Plymouth Sport fury two door hard top. All original,factory black car. It did have some rust in the lower quarters, but a nice original car for the most part. He lived with his girlfriend off of a street call Rose Hill in Boise. The house they rented was set back behind another house, so you had to park on the street. My brothers Plymouth was parked behind his girlfriends little pickup. At about 11:00 pm they get a knock on the door, and two cops are standing there. They ask him if he owns the old Plymouth, because it has just been hit by a drunk driver. The drunk driver took off, but was caught farther down the road. Right down the road from the house he rented was a bar called the trolley, neat old bar. It was a really old trolley car from the thirties converted in to a bar. So the driver left there drunk, and rear ended my brothers Plymouth. Really pissed off my brother. AND THEN at about 2:00 am my brother is woken up by a knock on the door. A cop is standing there, and asks him if he was the one that just had his car hit earlier. My brother says yes, and the cop says it has just been hit again. Another drunk driver left the same bar and rear ended the Plymouth again. This time the car was hit so hard, it drove the Plymouth up on to the bed of his girlfriends pickup and wiped out the Plymouth. The rear frame rails were bent in a S shape, smashed like an accordion. That driver did not leave the scene. Twice in one night, two drunk drivers leaving the same bar. It was very sad, a little rust but a nice straight original Plymouth.

Thought this would be a interesting question. We have all had cars plagued with problems, most due to age of parts or poor work. But can a car have bad mojo? If a old house can be creepy, can a car be creepy? Or would it be just a superstitious belief?

It is funny that people will age or antique the finish on stuff to make it look older and more desirable. But they will also stretch their face to the point of the wind tunnel look, in a attempt to look younger.

I can not speak from experience, but it would seem to me. If you put a coating on a floor that you will be doing welding, plasma cutting, grinding or other work that involves heat,sparks,flames or melted metals. There is no way it will hold up. If It is to make the space nice for display, great. But remember the sign "slippery when wet"

There are a ton of 57 Chevrolets around here, and I have never seen that trim before on a car or old trunk lid. Was it a 57 year only item?

The best one by far is "rust free". I think that everyone over the years has misunderstood this statement. The term rust free means, if you buy this car. You get the rust for free.

I like, it ran good when parked. Is there a known cut off for this phrase? Maybe the length of time it takes gas to go bad in the tank. After sitting in a field for 15 years, ran good when parked does not mean much.

Nice video, I have never seen trim on the bottom edge of the trunk lid before. Is that an accessory?

Maybe it is just the windshield that they are referring to.. Sorry for what you have encountered, maybe one day some things will be talked about in a larger forum.

What are the year, make and model of cars you need a value placed on? Getting an appraiser that knows the market for the era and the manufacturer, would be in your best financial interest. Also quality auction houses have specialists that can evaluate the cars. You will have fees and costs involved in selling with them. You should be able to put a close enough value on them yourself, by looking at value guides on line. figure out realistic conditions of the cars, match it up to values listed from multiple sources. Add a little more to the asking price, and list one for sale. If the phone does not ring, you are to high. Easy to lower the price. A classic car dealer in your area might be interested in making a offer for some or all the cars. They will offer less, but you all ready know that. A little research on your end, and dealing with quality people, will get you the maximum value out of your cars.

There is a business side to classic cars as well. If they were not assets you would not have classic car dealers, builders/restoration shops and auction houses. I have cars I own, and that is my hobby. I will loose all of my Labor when I go to sell. I know that, I enjoy the cars. And more people would if some things on the business side would be talked about. Fishing is a hobby, and there is a massive industry behind it as well. The classic\custom\street rod\hot rod industry is massive, and full of great people who do great things. You would not think twice about buying that new Cadillac for 50K if that is what you wanted. If you spent that same 50K on a 47 Cadillac convertible. I wonder which one will hold it's value????????? That is called a asset. This hobby\industry can only go up, as long as you have good people in it trying to make it better.

Tell Bill to move to Idaho. He would OD on truck cabs here.

I have after market suspensions, and front clips on our own cars. Have never had a problem with any of them. This is just some thing that was noticed. Not pointing any fingers, or making any claims.

Posting this to let people know that if you or anyone you know has a after market mustang ll suspension. To check the mounting of the upper A-arms. Have noticed that as the upper A-arm travels up and down, it can back off the nylon lock nut. With the weight of the car putting pressure on the upper A-arm, it forces the A-arm to spread\open up at the mounting point on the shaft. There fore keeping pressure outward on the nylon lock nuts. And as it travels up and down, it keeps backing off the mounting nut, and can kick out the suspension bushing from the A-arm. Something to watch for, looking in to failure of the nylon portion of the nut due to age\use. And have been told to check how much positive caster has been put in the alignment. Not sounding an alarm, just check if you have one.

I have noticed a few Cords with older Cad engines in them for sale. Was this a common swap? If so, why? Auburnseaker, what else was changed on yours to make that set up work?

That Farris is a righteous dude.

Don't be pulling that cad motor out of my Cord.

Enclosed is the only way to go. Makes for great storage container when not in use. 24 ft slant or V-nose, what ever you want to call it. If buying one new, get one with a side loading door. So you can open the car door inside the trailer. You get what you pay for with trailers. Good used ones are out there. Mine is a 24 ft enclosed super coach from Interstate, I have no complaints on it. Have owned it for 8 years, and would recommend one.

What is fun to watch, is when one side of the cars has threads that go the other way. And no matter how much people try, they just can not break them loose even with wax.

Just a question. Could some one have reached in and popped it out of gear? No joke, I have had cars damaged and lug nuts loosened up on show cars before. Some people will go out of their way to win. Or to make some one else look bad. ( and yes matt it does happen) just ask a figure skater.

Good eye. Made me laugh