Ronnie

It would not hurt to try resetting the codes again by unhooking the negative battery cable. There is s Schrader type of valve that the switch screws into. If the valve is working correctly not much freon should escape.

Have you tried reseting the codes by removing the battery cable? Sometimes your problem will go away. If you have done that you can unplug the connector from the low pressure switch and insert a jumper to bypass the switch. See photo for location. Turn the A/C control to the lowest setting. The compressor clutch should engage. I would not let it run long as it could damage the compressor. If the compressor runs you need freon or have a bad pressure switch. If the compressor doesn't run you have another problem with the compressor such as relays, bad clutch etc.

After 114 views and only 2 positive posts in favor of having an eBay seller list, it is clear that such as list is not needed or wanted. In this case I consider silence a NO vote. Thanks to everyone for your opinion.

Nic, Look here to see if this is the info you are looking for.

MauiWowee is correct. I stopped trying to get people to post messages that are readable. Now when I see a post like that I just ignore it and don't waste my time.

Daniel, If a person was swapping both the and engine and transmission out of a car with a supercharged 3.8, would it be easier to install the engine and transmission as a unit or install them individually? One other question. Do you know if there are any supercharged 3.8 cars that share the same cradle as the Reatta? If so would it be easier to swap the whole cradle, engine and transmission as a unit?

I have been contacted by more than one person about adding a list of BAD eBay sellers to my website. I'm not a fan of building a "Black List" of people selling on eBay. I have lots of reasons but the main one is I don't want to pee anyone off. However, I do see a need for a way for us Reatta owners to stick together and try to protect each other from being scammed by unscrupulous sellers on eBay. I was recently a potential victim if I had not checked out the car for myself before bidding. I was out about 20 bucks worth of gas but it could have been much worse. Although I am not willing to build a black list for eBay sellers, I would be willing to build a list of eBay sellers, both good and bad. Here is how I think it might work: 1. It would be for sellers of Reatta cars and parts only. 2. You would enter the username of the eBay seller you want added the list. 3. You would rate the seller from poor to great. 4. You would give a short description of why you recommend or condemn the seller. 5. I would approve or disapprove the listing before it is made public based on merit. If you think there is a need for such a list please let me hear your comments. Adding the list to the site will depend on the response this gets. Thanks, Ronnie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I was hoping someone had a picture, and it's a VERY good one. If you have the other sheet, that shows the NAMES of these reference numbers, that would help too.</div></div> Here you go:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Enoytsur</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By the way, Tom ... I'll never pick on 'mom' ... she was spot on in finding that <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">Gray Reatta</span></span> up in Bradenton ... </div></div> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DAVES89</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> And helped ENOYTSUR find the car he bought.</div></div> ??? ENOYTSUR's car:

Tom's "MOM" (mother) lives near John.

Buyer Beware is the best policy. I have bought cars off eBay. However, I have never paid a cent until I have actually seen the car with my own eyes. With photo editing software I could start with a car straight out of the junk yard and produce photos that would have you dying to get your hands on it. Photos don't mean as much as they used to. A word of caution... be careful in trying to intervene in the sale of the car in any way. It is possible you could be held liable for interfering with the sale. That is why I didn't do anything to stop him from selling the car. By time I saw the car it was too late to report him to eBay and they wouldn't do anything anyway.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: matthewlawe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"I looked at the car today". Why not share your observations here on the forum of your impressions and what you found ...the good, the bad, the ugly...? Regards, 1989 White/Blue </div></div> Now that the auction has ended I will tell you what I know. THE GOOD: 1 - Looks good from 20 feet away. 2 - Starts and drives OK. 3 - Good tires. 4 - The car had just been detailed. 5 - Nice chrome tips on exhaust. THE BAD: 1 - The car had over 184,000 miles showing on the odometer NOT 90,000 as stated in the auction. 2 - The wind shield had a crack about 6" long. 3 - Brake warning lights came on when the brakes were applied. 4 - Power steering pump had a loud whining noise. 5 - Steering column could be pulled from side to side. Either loose or worn out. 6 - After market air cleaner. 7 - Passenger seat broken, would not stay upright. 8 - Parts of trunk lock missing where key is inserted. 9 - Door panels loose. 10-Worn places on seats had been re-dyed. 11-Ugly after market radio. 12-Transmission fluid had a burned smell. 13-2 deep dents in trunk lid the size of a nickel 14-1 dent next to the trunk lid. 15-Numerous chips in paint that had been touched up. The reserve was originally set at $3500. I see the seller lowered it at the last minute so the car would sell. Another trick of the trade to get the highest dollar from an unsuspecting Buyer. I hope the winner of the auction has the opportunity to back out of the auction without losing money.

Stop the presses! Buick made lots of convertibles. Just Google Buick convertible .

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I ass-umed that you were exposing a scammer once I saw the -1 feedback. </div></div> You were correct in your assumption.

I don't like to put down anyones car in public. I see no benefit in doing that. BUT, at the same time I don't want to see any member of the forum get burned either. If someone is seriously thinking about bidding I will supply them with details (facts) about the car if they PM me. I looked at the car today.

If you are thinking of bidding on eBay item # 170219966805 (Silver 1990) PM me first.

Congratulations Jon!

Could you please rephrase the question or give more detials? I'm not sure I understand what you are asking.

Speaking of rip-offs... I pay a higher premium on a Ford Taurus now than I did in 2000 when I bought it new. It is worth about a 1/3 as much now as it was in 2000. Looks like the insurance would go down as the value of the car goes down but that is not the case. After paying for insuring it all these years with no accidents they will want to total it if I have an accident and pay me pennies on the dollar. Just doesn't seem fair. BTW, we have never had any accidents or tickets that would cause the premium to go up.

John, I currently only have Liability on my Reatta. The coverage is $100,000/$300,000 with a deductible of $250. Premium is $114.00 I have 2 other vehicles with full coverage that run around $325 each with the same coverage and deductible as above.

After wind tunnel testing Mickey Thompson found that his Ford Pinto funny car would have been more aerodynamic if he had turned the body around backwards. Could that be the case with the Reatta? If so the seats may be in backwards and they may have driven the car in reverse around the track. That would explain why some people were saying a rear wheel drive Reatta was made.

Try this website for more info. and here for HP parts.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Ronnie, are you saying that with a ruptured diaphram the fluid that would have pressed on a good diaphram to compress the nitrogen in the upper chamber, now simply fills the entire accumulator? When that happens the pump shuts off but since there is no pressure to force the fluid back into the system in the way it was designed, the fluid just drains back and the pump comes back on?</div></div> Yes, the accumulator only has one hole in the bottom. When fluid fills the entire accumulator the pump will shut off, assuming the rest of the system is working properly. I can't say with certainty that the pump will not come back on until the brake pedal is pressed but I can say from my experience that the brake lights on the dash will not come back on until the brake pedal is pressed. Once the pedal is pressed, the red brake light will come on, (and sometimes the yellow light), and the pump will start to run until proper pressure is again reached. Then the light(s) will again go off. There must be check valves in the TEVES unit that keeps the pressure from draining back immediately as you described. A properly working TEVES brake system will hold pressure for a period of time without the brake light on the dash coming on after the power has been shut of and then restored. I have not had a TEVES unit apart so I can't say for sure.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I'm sure Ronnie's intent is not to replace the discussion group, but to augment it with a "sister-in-law site" to satisfy the appetite of those buying/selling Reattae and related items, or parts.</div></div>You are absolutely right. I would not want to do anything to jeopardize the usefulness and camaraderie that is available on this forum. This forum is the best on the Internet. I realize there are many good websites with Reatta information. I wanted to build a website to steer Reatta owners to the most requested information they seek from one central location. Above all I hope it is a useful site to new owners as a starting point to get answers to questions they frequently have about their cars. I don't claim any rights to the information that is found on my site. Nor do I in any way consider myself an authority on the Buick Reatta. I appreciate the work of Barney and others on the forum who have helped me learn the idiosyncrasies of the Reatta. They are the true authorities. I did seek and have received permission to use information and tutorials found on this forum on my website. I did so because I want to make the best information and tutorials easier to find. I find the search function on the forum lacking a lot to be desired. I do not copy the posts word for word every time. I try to correct spelling and other mistakes and reformat the posts in order to make them easier to understand whenever possible. I hope everyone approves but I know some people won't. I hope everyone enjoys the site and finds it useful. I also hope you will help me improve it by providing your input on what you think should be found on the website. Thanks to everyone for your kind words about my website.

I disagree. Once the accumulator is full the fluid has no place to go, pressure is built in the system, and the pressure switch (if working properly) will shut off the pump. I know this from experience. I had a ruptured diaphragm in my old accumulator. The pump would run when the key was turned on until pressure was built. The lights on the dash would go out and the pump would stop. As soon as the brake pedal was pressed the lights would come back on and the pump would start. Then the whole process would start over.