DAVES89

Ron, Thanks for staying with me on this. I typically don't care about hard accelerations, but now that I know something is not right,I would like to fix it if possible. A tranny rebuild is out of the question as the tranny works fine except for the first gear hard acceleration. I will try the cable adjustment. Here is exactly what happens; From a standing stop I floor the accelerator and the car winds out to about 6000 rpm and then goes into nuetral. In one out of 5 hard accelerations it will go into second at about that same rpm, but I will definatly have been past the power curve.I put new rubber on a couple of vaccum lines and I don't hear any vaccum leaks so I think I am OK there.

I think that if you went to Harbor freight and got a spark tester, and a pressure gauge as Ron suggested you should be set.

Tommy there is a red Toro Trofeo in the local u-pick.It is a '91 I believe. What are you looking for?

Instlled the one TDman and F-14 said was good. I adjusted it 1/2 turn to right and it shifts softer like I wanted. It seems crisper thru all the shifts. I still have the no shift out of first in hard acceleration. Any more ideas? Also what is a cv cable adjustment?

TD I noticed that the trim ring on the tach is black but silver on the small gauges. I would think you want them the same. I think I want digital gauges. I too am not crazy about the Reatta gauges but I want to maintain the "look". I have disconnected the cassette deck lead and the radio works fine. I also got a ipod lead from TommyH for running a portable CD player. Anybody else want to weigh in on the 2nd CRT? I am thinking if you studied the FSM you could piggyback the leads over to the2nd CRT and could run any number of combinations. Do you think the ECM would be able to handle it? I think it is there to monitor and control and then send info as requested.

There are 4 screws to remove the trim piece. 2 are on each end in the vents. The other 2 are in the center going into the underside of the top of the dash. The trim piece should then come out. There are also 4 screws holding the IPC in place. Remove those. Then with your 2 fore fingers hook your fingers around the ouside edges of the IPC and rock it out of the socket.

I went back and read your prior posts from when you signed on a year ago. You had a leaking brake problem then. How did you resolve the issue from back then?

I've not taken out my cassette deck yet, but would it be possible to put in a touch screen and then setting that on gauges? That way you could always have gauge info.

Before you think that your teves system is leaking, please go to Reatta.net and read the tutorial on "brakes" located on the left side of the home page. I'm thinking that brake fluid was added without depressurizing the system. Then when the pump builds up the pressure excess fluid is forced out, causing your leak.

Regarding those glove box latches. I get them from the local u-pick from a Riv. I remove the lock and repaint. I will install my locks into the Riv. latches as I break the original latches.

I went back and looked. The post was from MONGOMAN. The fuel pump relay wires are pink/black, Dark green, white/black, white/gray. The other relays are as follows; 5 wire relay-Main relay [brake], 4 wire is abs brake pump

Go to date 7/18/07 and there is a number of posts on relay wire colors,as well as the brake relay wire colors

I have Cadillac remotes which work on the Reatta/rivs. They are tested working from my brother who works at a Buick/Cadillac dealership.PM me if you are interested.

That is my understanding. Jim Finn replaces the warning lights... if he responds maybe he has better advice. But he has told me he has an extra one he would like to keep as an insurance policy for when his dies.

12/1 I store the Reatta. I will have to bring her big sister... the Roadmaster!

I was all hyped up about getting a parts car, until I started thinking about storage issues. So I have been grabbing Riv parts that work on the Reatta and the parts I can't get [no junked Reattas in my area] I get from Jim. When he goes out of business then I will consider a parts car. Jim is probably the best resource we have and he stores the parts I need for free!!! BTW I do have an extra ECM,BCM,IPC,Touch Screen,Wheel sensor leads,16 way seat switches, Door seat switches, Headlight/Wiper Pods. I see that I still need mirror and window switches, outside mirrors,rear tail light,front light assemblies, and the teves pump,accumulator, and pressure switch. The above are all GM discontinued. If I break a window[front or back] I will buy a parts car.

I am looking to replace my cassette deck with something... I have thiught of wiring in a GPS unit. Anyone out there with any other ideas on what they have done or would like to do? If I did that and installed a cd player in the trunk, how would I get the unit to play?

Instrument clusters replace in about 5 minutes. It is common that they stop working. I have 2 available that are in working order. However not all the warning lights illuminate. Of the 8 warning lights, one has 6 that light and the other 7. They are yours for $40.00 ea.

Are there stops in either direction? Once I find the middle how far left do I turn not to go to too hard a shift?

Thanks! For $14.00 I will install it and see what happens. Regarding the adjustment, which way do I turn the adjustment screw for harder/softer shifts? Is it harder on the tranny if I make these adjustments? TD, what is your recomendation?

Replaced the front brake sensor leads. Amber light is now out. Cost $50.00 from Jim. No amber light glare... almost priceless.

My mechanic friend looked at the modulator and determined it was bad. He agreed with F-14's opinion that it likely was the problem. The vaccum lines looked good. I had purchased one at Advance, but it didn't look anywhere near the same. So off to GM I go.

Just checked the 2 that I have for sale. The good one actually has 4 lights on each side for a total of 8. The other one has 4 lights on the right but only 2 on the left. The good one [all 8 lights] goes to Nick. The other one works fine except for the 2 warning lights on the left and is available for $40.00 plus freight. PM me if you are interested. Also the one Nick has is available for the same $40.00 plus freight.

In my '89 I have a GM rebuilt tranny. It now has about 40,000 miles on it [mostly highway]. Recently I tried a hard acceleration from a standing stop and the car accelerates up to about 6000 RPMs in first gear and then spins free. If I drive normally it will upshift, downshift, go in overdrive, overall no problems. What do you think may be the problem? This spring I dropped the pan, replaced filter and fluid.I recently put in a prom from an '89 Riv. The prom had a factory rebuilt sticker on it when I put it in. Could that be related to the shifting issue? The prom that I had in the car was the source of my hard starting issue. It now starts good.

If your IPC turns out bad, I have 1 available. You can PM me if you are interested.