DAVES89

Other then being faded, mine were in far better shape... and I threw them away!?!

I've had good luck with the local Dr. Vinyl franchisee. They also do carpets. Maybe they could do headliners. look in the yellow pages first then the business pages. Or try the internet.

Take the cat to a parts store [Advance Auto] that will check your charging system for you. Make sure that part is good, then check for a drain as suggested. 3 defective batteries is way to big a coincidence.

I'm interested as well. I am sometimes limited in imagination. Can you tell us what years you are refering to? Oops.. Looks like I have a little trouble with hitting the submit button...

I'm interested as well. I am sometimes limited in imagination. Can you tell us what years you are refering to?

well Tommy, You are still young yet... Maybe you will grow out of it...

Regarding the 90/91 IPC, I would contact Jim Finn. I believe he might help you in replacing the warning lights that are burned out. They are soldered in place. On the 88/89 IPCs replacement is far easier.The bulb is a #194. Remove the trim piece covering the IPC, then remove the 5 screws holding the glass. You should then see the bulbs along the bottom. remove/replace the burned out bulb, reinstall the glass and trim piece.

You invited Warren Zevon to be present when you got engaged? Or were you present when he got engaged...[lol]

Couldn't you just acomplish the desired result by disconnecting the abs sensor lead to one of the wheels? I only got mine to work again by replacing the 2 front sensor leads.

If you have an '89 like I do, try this, let the car go thru the "light show" and I will bet your SES [service engine soon] light doesn't work. The bulb is easily replaceable on an '89 and the warning will go away. I never noticed my bulb was burned out and I kept getting the warning pop up on the screen. That bulb is needed when you try jumping leads to get a code rhru the watchamacallit box.

I went back to the original modulater. This am when I started driving the tranny slipped like a stick transmission with a bad clutch. I priced a GM unit, it was $150.00. So I took the one I had purchased from Advance and asked them to replace the one I had as defective, which they did. I will try again. This one seemed different as the nose piece was a tight fit where the first one I got from Advance was real loose. As a matter of fact when I went to take it back out to replace it with the original, the nosepiece stayed in and I had to fish it out with a magnetic screwdriver. Hope for better results tomorrow.

These cars are typical 3.8 motors with a typical automatic transmission. What will cause you headaches is the the sensors and electrical stuff. The guys on this forum are knowledgable and parts are still available. Drivetrain stuff new, most electrical used. You can have 2 choices, build a small inventory of common 2 fail items, or do what most of us do, depend on Jim Finn, our parts supplier extroidinaire! Good luck with your search, these cars are great!

I knew that was over reving, but in a preverse way I had to see if the car would shift. I will go with adjusting both cables and then deal with what I get. I will keep you posted. Hey Jim if you read this GO PACK!!!

Ron, Thanks for staying with me on this. I typically don't care about hard accelerations, but now that I know something is not right,I would like to fix it if possible. A tranny rebuild is out of the question as the tranny works fine except for the first gear hard acceleration. I will try the cable adjustment. Here is exactly what happens; From a standing stop I floor the accelerator and the car winds out to about 6000 rpm and then goes into nuetral. In one out of 5 hard accelerations it will go into second at about that same rpm, but I will definatly have been past the power curve.I put new rubber on a couple of vaccum lines and I don't hear any vaccum leaks so I think I am OK there.

I think that if you went to Harbor freight and got a spark tester, and a pressure gauge as Ron suggested you should be set.

Tommy there is a red Toro Trofeo in the local u-pick.It is a '91 I believe. What are you looking for?

Instlled the one TDman and F-14 said was good. I adjusted it 1/2 turn to right and it shifts softer like I wanted. It seems crisper thru all the shifts. I still have the no shift out of first in hard acceleration. Any more ideas? Also what is a cv cable adjustment?

TD I noticed that the trim ring on the tach is black but silver on the small gauges. I would think you want them the same. I think I want digital gauges. I too am not crazy about the Reatta gauges but I want to maintain the "look". I have disconnected the cassette deck lead and the radio works fine. I also got a ipod lead from TommyH for running a portable CD player. Anybody else want to weigh in on the 2nd CRT? I am thinking if you studied the FSM you could piggyback the leads over to the2nd CRT and could run any number of combinations. Do you think the ECM would be able to handle it? I think it is there to monitor and control and then send info as requested.

There are 4 screws to remove the trim piece. 2 are on each end in the vents. The other 2 are in the center going into the underside of the top of the dash. The trim piece should then come out. There are also 4 screws holding the IPC in place. Remove those. Then with your 2 fore fingers hook your fingers around the ouside edges of the IPC and rock it out of the socket.

I went back and read your prior posts from when you signed on a year ago. You had a leaking brake problem then. How did you resolve the issue from back then?

I've not taken out my cassette deck yet, but would it be possible to put in a touch screen and then setting that on gauges? That way you could always have gauge info.

Before you think that your teves system is leaking, please go to Reatta.net and read the tutorial on "brakes" located on the left side of the home page. I'm thinking that brake fluid was added without depressurizing the system. Then when the pump builds up the pressure excess fluid is forced out, causing your leak.

Regarding those glove box latches. I get them from the local u-pick from a Riv. I remove the lock and repaint. I will install my locks into the Riv. latches as I break the original latches.

I went back and looked. The post was from MONGOMAN. The fuel pump relay wires are pink/black, Dark green, white/black, white/gray. The other relays are as follows; 5 wire relay-Main relay [brake], 4 wire is abs brake pump

Go to date 7/18/07 and there is a number of posts on relay wire colors,as well as the brake relay wire colors