DAVES89

I'm guessing that the "leak" is tied to the half shafts/drive shafts. The engine is new, the tranny has been worked on, they shouldn't be leaking. Unless of course it is tranny lines. Both half shafts can be put in in less the 2 hours and I am guessing less the $100.00 ea. on the half shafts.

It is stored in the ECM. Changing the cluster will not change the actual milage of your car.

What I would do is go back into the code area. Wait for BCM to pop up and hit NO until you get to clear codes hit YES. Then exit program. Go back in and then clear codes for ECM. The reset will also clear the current code for the low freon. You might get lucky and the A/C will work again. Otherwise you will need to get more freon if the code reappears.

No relay. Probably a bad panel. You could try cleaning the connection with contact cleaner and then grease the connection with electrical grease. If that doesn't work try Jim Finn,he would have a working IPC.

I agree with TDman. However that being said,it could work with the insurance companies. The base value on a printed book.

I think you have either an '88 or '89. What you are doing is going thru a system check on your touch screen thru the status hard button. When you get to that page it tells you what the warning signs look like. It does not mean you have a problem. If your touch screen has a self induced warning pop up on its own I would be concerned. To find out if you have a system problem, turn your key to the on position. Turn off both the radio and heating/cooling system. Then press and hold the off and warm buttons until the touch screen goes into dignostics. It will give you active and history codes. Report back with what you have.

I'll check your 2 suggestions tomorrow. The only reason the fog lights didn't work before was I took out the twilight sensor. As soon as I replaced the sensor and cleared the code I had fog lights.

This is getting weird. Twilight sensor in. Fog light switch on, only get running lights. High beam is not on. No twilight sensor code current or history. Interior dash pod lights work. What's up? I do have a c553h code I can't clear out. Any ideas?

Glad to help. You can buy me a beer. That'll even 'er up.

Where is Tommy?

Facing the motor, the front bank is from left to rigt is 1-3-5 The back left to right is 2-4-6

I am curious Padgett. Everyone else is interested in raising the lock out but you want to lower it. Also why change the TPS as well. Your thoughts please? Also for most of us with daily drivers that are interested in reprogramming our eproms, what are some recomendations?

Mine was running good, but when I saw the slime I knew my time was near to replace. I went to car-part.com and keyed in 1992 Pontiac Transport. This will tell all the ones that will work. Remember this was a project done by Padgett. His conclusion was that if it worked on his '92 it will work for the Reatta conversion. Remember it has to fit on both our mounting plate and fit in our harness. I went to the local u-pick yard, found one on a car marked motor good and grabbed it. Cost me $20.00

I agree. Those stripes are so wide and so so short the immediate thought that came to me was "chiclets". They look like chiclets sitting on the car. I know that sounded harsh, but I had stipes on 2 of my prvious cars, '66 Mustang and a '72 el Camino. I am not against stripes, just maybe something a little different.

What does he charge? And how do we get ahold of him?

I just switched out the coil pack and the maf sensor and was really thinking my gas mileage had dropped. Yesterday on the highway I cleared my '89s screens and checked it with a/c on. This was posted 55. Set crise for 62. I got 28.5 and now I am happy knowing that the gas mileage is what I was getting before. Car now starts on the first grind,but hard. Still working on that.

Go easy on us guys from Wi. Actually I know what "angle" iron is. I was referring to "corner" iron. Same concept only ready made w/holes. It is located in the hardware store. It will be aprox. 1/8" stock about 1/2" wide and comes in lengths of 1" to about 6". When I worked in a hardware store it was manufactured by a company called "National Hardware". This product was used for various repairs and came in both a flat and corner stock. If you have any questions I'll be at the bubbler. Regarding the removal of the photocell, in my opinion the answer is no. The windshield comes down too close and the vent grill is too narrow. The photocell is located in a fixed plastic bracket. Removing the bulb is like removing a typical automotive bulb in that you have to twist it to the opening and then push down thru the bracket. Then pull the bulb in the pigtail away from the bracket. All this in a very small area w/o a lot of clearance. Best thing to do is remove vent grill. Turn out the 3 #15 torx screws, slide in your new bracket puller, pull straight up, they come right out. Lift up the front of dash and unscrew the defroster hose,[finger tight using a 10mm socket, no use of ratchet]. Take off dash pad. The access is then very good.Check to make sure you have the clips that go on the plastic tabs. Replacement is as follows; 1]Put dash pad back in place. 2]Lift up front of dash to put defroster vent hose back in place using 10mm socket[use no ratchet] 3]Set dash back in place 4] Turn in the 3 #15 torx screws 5] Snap front of dash pad back in place w/direct downwrd pressure of your hands 6] Set vent grill back in place,tuck in near edge first,press down on back edge until you here it snap in place. Standard disclaimer; This is only a guide on what has worked for me.

Probably the easiest thing to do is go to your local hardware store and buy a 2 1/2" corner iron. Bend one end in a vise at a 90 degree angle then grind that newly bent end down to aprox 1/8". That is all there is to it. No need to drill holes like the guy did on FAQ. I know this one works well because I had to go to my loal u-pick yard to pull another dash apart to get the little metal hold down clips that go on the plastic tabs. Slid in no problem, pulled straight up and nothing broke. One other thing,don't start in the middle,start at one end,pull to release clip, slide to the next one, etc... REMEMBER You still have to remove the little vent cover and the 3 #15 torx screws that hold the back part of the dash pad in place,before attempting to do the front.

It has on one end a lip of 1/8" to allow it to fit between the dash and dash pad. Then bent at 90 degrees for 2 1/2" and then a bend of 90 degrees for a length of 1 1/2" The width can be 3/4 to 1" I will post a pic when someone comes home and will post for me. This tool allows you to pull straight up with no damage to either the dash pad or panel. I got the basic dimensions from the FAQ on the Reatta.net and made some changes.

OK my little episode with twilight sensors and dash pads is over. Here is what I learned. When I bought my car all the front clips were broken on the dash pad. So while I was out at the u-pick yard I found a Riv [with good clips], painted it and put it in. My wife said the repaint color was too far off so out it comes. Pried instead of lifted staight up and cracked both the dash pad and the dash. Repainted the dash a different color[my wife is now happy] put back in the pad w/o the twilight sensor, discovered that the fog lights would't work. I made a dash pad puller tool, [used that,works great!] no additional damage to either pad or dash. Before reinstalling, the car went to DR. VINYL and he repaired and touched up everything to original, put the pad and defroster cover in and my dash looks close to new. They have a new product to restore the leather seats and I am going to try that next week when I replace my carpeting. I will keep you posted.

Or go on ebay and key in r-12 freon, buy the can and the adapter and pump one in. The whole thing should cost you less then $50.00

How 'bout a pic of the Fiero wing?

I knew it wasn't my imagination. For me it is now too late. The original defroster panel had all the front edge clips broken, so when I was out at my favorite u-pick yard I found a good one in a riv, painted it and installed it. The color I chose wasn't a good enough match so I cracked both my dash pad and my new defroster panel removing them. I didn't want to run the risk of cracking it more so that is why I pulled the sensor. Well everyone now knows that the sensor has to be in place to make the fog lights work so back in the dash I go. I now have a call in to the local Dr. Vinyl to repair the crack and at that time, [because I am replacing my carpets and interior will be gutted], I will repaint the top of my dash pad using the SEM paint made for the job. Lesson learned? Do not try to pry up your defroster panel. Make a hook device and PULL STRAIGHT UP! [leading edge only, back edge held in by 3 torx screws].

Here is what I found out. Do not remove the twilight sensor if you want the fog lights. You will get a code[forgot to write the # down]. This code will not allow fog lights to operate.W/O the sensor you will have running lights, but no fog lights. Reinstalled the sensor, cleared the computer for codes, and now I have all my lights, [fog lights included].

Not a fuse citcuit a breaker circuit. Power to the breaker no power to the lights. Problem somewhere along the line.