W_Higgins

Unless they have been cobbled on extensively, there are a number of things that point to these not being early '30 Model A fenders. Most notably, the hood shelf / radiator splash apron area contours and hole placement.

As a follow-up to that, I realized I made an assumption that you were masking something that you had already painted. If the tape pulled the clear off the base of something previously painted, it is just an indication that the finish was failing anyway. Let me guess, it happened only on the horizontal surfaces most exposed to the sun but not necessarily on the sides or underneath?

Regardless of if it was left on for a week or a year, the green or yellow 3M tape sold at an auto body supply shouldn't pull your finish. There was something not right about your prep.

Understand that I'm not calling your character into questions, just providing a devil's advocate point of view. The more barriers you break down, the more buyers you let in.

My original comments were directed at Carl, he is the one I quoted. That with which I take umbrage is that the common complaint on all forums seems to be to whack eBay -- buyers, sellers, whoever is on the opposing side. There is no vetting on eBay. The same cross-section of humanity that exists in the general public exists there, too. You're going to have scoundrels and you're going to have good people, but to use a broad brush to paint the buying public as dishonest and manipulative is not fair to the good people that have purchased from myself and others. I have actually made friends as a result of selling on eBay. Just because the high bidder didn't come back and buy your car shouldn't reflect on his character. That can happen for any number of reasons. I went back and looked and I'll provide constructive criticism since you asked. Your photos aren't high quality and there aren't enough of them. Your backdrop needs to be a professional building or an executive home such as where the new owner would have worked or lived. The lighting is poor and they need to be rotated correctly. There are no undercarriage shots. You need to show all four wheels. You have no store credit, your buyers are looking at you as a used car dealer. Used car dealers will show the best wheel, not the one with curb scrapes. Same with the door panel, because Lincoln people know the armrest is always falling off the drivers door, the vinyl is split, and the pull strap covers are missing. There's a button cap popped off the drivers seat. You mention a few negatives, but not enough. You need equal balance of the good, the bad, and the ugly. It's 40 years old and unrestored, there has to be more. All those options -- do they work? Just about all of these cars have them, so it doesn't make yours unique. If they all still work, that makes your car unique. Paint flaws are mentioned but you don't show them. The top damage is difficult to see. The typeset is small. You'd be surprised how many potential buyers move on to the next listing if it's hard to read. If you're willing to lower your reserve, don't wait until the last hour. The more people you hook early on, the more likely you are to keep them interested if they think they're about to reach the carrot. Not everybody checks their computer every five minutes. These are difficult cars to sell, especially if you're trying to squeeze out every last cent. Europeans will buy them, but they're looking for the ones in the top 5%. It costs as much to ship an exceptional one as it does a parts car. Yours might be in the top 20%. Maybe it's higher, it's hard to tell the way it's presented. Only you can decide where the break point is on the work vs. the reward, but the less well presented it is, the shorter the distance that someone will travel to drag it home, and that means a smaller pool of buyers. For this particular car, everybody has a few of them for sale within a few hours drive of them at any given time. It's an average listing swimming in a sea of average listings. I'm not trying to rip your listing to shreds, that's just what I see when I look at it. Best of luck with the whole thing.

No worries on this end. In this case, it looks like all a meddler had to do was do nothing.

I have sold several cars of all types on eBay and, if not on eBay directly, as a result of eBay after the auction ended, and each time on the first shot. You can't expect eBay to make up for your shortcomings if you don't understand how to market something in a way that attracts the buyer you need. It's a wonderful platform and nothing out there will get you more visibility.

Lincoln. They ceased to exist when they quit building rear wheel drive automobiles with at least eight cylinders.

Looks like my question above got lost in the discussion. So, when does one need to be mindful of CDL requirements kicking in?

That's a big honkin' rig. Does pulling a set-up like that require a CDL?

That's too bad. They should have left the Sears building and town down Camden.

You need this thing, Dave. Consider wintering in balmy southeastern Pennsylvania and then you can take it home with you. Kill two birds with one stone.

Nice functional unit. I used it to cut a couple of keys for myself and got it right on the first try without ever having run one before. I don't know why I didn't get a full photo of the other side. There are about 30 different automotive blanks and multiples of most. Most of the automotive ones are common GM, Ford, and Chrysler, probably from the '70's and '80's. There are even some for Toyota and who knows what else. Key blanks run the gamut from automotive to household to padlocks. About 25 pegs don't have keys on them and about 175 do. Exhibits typical wear and tear from use and handling, but overall pretty decent and very presentable. Inside the cabinet are some key blank books. Somebody stabbed a piece of conduit on the shaft that runs inside the cabinet, not visible when mounted. Price: $475.00 Local pickup near Gettysburg , PA. Message me through the forum with any question. Thanks for looking!

Solar 8100 R-12 Refrigerant Recovery Machine Clean unit. Less than 9 hours run time. Buyer gets the interesting story that comes with it. Last used a few years ago and it worked fine then. I think it could be could be converted to 134a with adapter fittings and either swapping out the gauges, or using a conversion scale to read the R-12 gauges correctly for 134a use. $275 bucks. Local pick-up only. Located near Gettysburg, PA. Message through the forum with any questions. Thanks for looking!

AC Diagnostic Tune-Up Center As shown. Exhibits typical shop wear. Artwork on control panel is nice. I haven't tested tested it. Restore, use as a parts machine, or just have it sitting in the corner for overall shop bling. Comes with accessories as shown. $100 bucks. Local pick-up only. Located near Gettysburg, PA. Message through the forum. Thanks for looking!

I would bet that you have a newer body grafted onto the front. Looking at the second photo in post #10, it looks like it originally had concave body sides under the seat riser. I believe that concave panel would have been a presentation surface and when the sheet metal was applied, they skinned over it. It would be unusual to see such differing coachmaking techniques combined on the same body unless it was a modification.

The Philadelphia assembly plant has been discussed on the MTFCA forum before. It is not the plant in Chester. Here is a link to an article discussing it in modern times: https://hiddencityphila.org/2013/09/broad-lehighs-landmark-botany-500-building-awaiting-its-next-life/ They really didn't use it all that long

Yeah, it's a knob knurled on its periphery that threads into the end cap. Attached to the knurled knob is a fluted rod or tube that runs the length of the tank. I can't remember its exact function, but I believe it's to more evenly distribute the water onto the calcium carbide. "Gray & Davis", among some other lettering, is engraved on the face of the knob.

It is Gray & Davis. The carbide tank appears to be missing a critical component on the right side that on yours seems to have been replaced by a common cap. Does the cap you show laying there on the bench look to be a replacement?

It's been awhile and I can't quite remember, but I don't think it was catastrophic so as to render the car inoperable. It was popping out of gear or the syncro wouldn't cooperate or some such. I'm aware of another heartshaped Brewster that had the same ailment, so it leads me to believe maybe the transmission is a bit undersized for the application given all the add-ons. Maybe it's a common EV8 ailment, I don't know.

They seem prone to break the intermediate gear thrust washer in the transmission. Just be mindful of that should it act up on you.

Universal is top notch. They have done several oddball jobs for me and I have been pleased with the outcome of all of them.

Get an ozone generator: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Commercial-Industrial-OZONE-GENERATOR-Air-Purifier-MOLD-MILDEW-SMOKE-odor-T/111070363208?_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D48754%26meid%3D73a7e434d93e40e099a0ad047cd93003%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D120867557225&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982 After trying everything else on a car with a rodent problem that wouldn't go away, ozone solved it. You could try every trick in the book, think you had it beat, and then the first time it was parked out in the sun it was like nothing at all was done. I got one of these, sealed it up good, and let it soak a couple of days. Problem solved. Works wonders for all kinds of other things too, like musty books.

That Rollerhoop looks cool but, after watching some videos of it in use, that's a lot of extra junk in the way around the o.d. of the car while you're trying to work. Above is a good example. Wheel wells and doglegs are frequent problem areas. That set-up severely restricts access. For the money, I can't figure who their market is. Accessible Systems is considered a high priced rotisserie and the Rollerhoop is higher yet.

After a lot of shopping and comparison I purchased a 3,000 lb. unit from Accessible Systems: https://www.accessiblesystems.com/bul/15/15d01.php That was about ten years ago and they have made more design improvements since then. If you've shopped enough in person, you can see the difference between their units and a lot of the others on the market. Well worth the money and my standard for anything I buy is that it will accommodate one of my Lincolns if I want. Thinking back, I believe they said they are designed at a safety factor of 1-1/2 or 2, whereas cheaper units are just at 1. I've yet to hang a Lincoln on it, but relevant to what you're doing, I have had two different shoebox Country Squire Station Wagons mounted on it, which are tall, and could easily flip them a full 360 degrees when balanced and stop them at any point without the need to have someone help lock it. I purchased mine with pneumatic tires rather than small casters. Just bite the bullet and do it or else you'll be limited to concrete floors. I would like to find non-pneumatic of the same diameter with which to replace them as after a trip to a dumpy sandblaster I have been fighting leaking tires ever since. Also, I ordered mine unpainted. If you're going to do any dirty work or send it to a blaster, it's just going to get ruined anyway. Truthfully, you could permanently store the thing outside even though I keep mine under cover. It's like an AK-47, the clearances are such that it doesn't really care about dirt and once it's rusty, it's rusty. It isn't going to get worse like you're driving it in salt.