W_Higgins

Steele only shows the set for the rear mount and it's the front I'm looking for. That's the same issue I ran into with the usual Buick parts houses. I don't even see motor mounts on Metro's site.

Just go for the gusto and put in one of these:

Is there somebody there with a niche business for '29's like there is for the '31's and '32's that's making this rubber piece for the front motor mount?: None of the major Buick vendors seems to offer it.

Just ask the sales rep what the factor of safety is. If they are knowledgeable about their product, they should know. This is for a much bigger unit than you're shopping for, but you'll see it expressed like this: "3. Design Load Factor of Safety: 3:1." You can reference what I was reading here at 2.17 C to familiarize yourself how technical specs are called-out. That's just an example that I Googled quick-and-easy. Greg Smith might be carrying other brands now. I haven't looked recently. I believe most of theirs are made overseas. That safety factor number is what you want, though, regardless of where it is made. That's what's going to allow you to do an even comparison.

Their site has a lot of options on it and you haven't stated exactly what kind of lift you're shopping for. One piece of advice I'd give you is to ask them how the safety factor was calculated for the models that interest you. Quite often with things like this you'll find a U.S. made 9,000 lb. lift will be on par with an 11,000 lb. Chinese unit, so you're not always comparing apples-to-apples when going with the manufacturers stated rating.

Can you provide a link? Since their brand name is so generic it doesn't Google well. Take a look at Greg Smith Equipment. I don't own one but I studied them thoroughly before my recent lift purchase and if I hadn't found a lightly used Rotary for the same money nearby, I was ready to go that direction.

Sacrificial anode.

If that happens, just dump it back on the cop and tell him to cite the law he's referencing.

Thanks. I'm itching to see. It's getting so hard to find an upholsterer who can work within the boundaries of the application.

Can you post some samples of your work? I'm not sure I've ever had the chance to see anything you've done in person, or if I did, I didn't know it was your doing.

With regard to the original question, my understanding is it has more to do with what EPA air quality zone in which you live, or some such. So, you're in southern Jersey -- I'm in southeastern PA. Philadelphia and the area around it falls into a more heavily regulated zone, therefore all stations are required to sell it. Hence, that is why it's more commonly found in-and-around high population centers. You used to be able to go out to Lancaster county and find several stations selling ethanol-free gas, but it seems to be disappearing, I think mainly because local jobbers having to supply it here aren't going to stock a separate blend for different areas.

While this discussion is being brought back to the top, an excellent resource to add to ones Rolodex is: Cattail Foundry Emanuel J. King 167 W. Cattail Road Gordonville, PA 17529 (717) 768-7323 I've visited them and seen their work firsthand. I'm not saying that they are capable of casting an entire engine block, but the regular work I saw there was outstanding and they are very reasonable. Certainly good enough for lots of regular car parts. The article linked to below will give you an excellent look at their work and business style. They story behind it is just wonderful: Short story and pics of Cattail Foundry's work Cheers!

I can't tell by your photos if yours is solid or not, but I've done the floor and rocker replacement on a '49 and '51 Ford wagon and documented the '49 here. It might be helpful to you: '49 Ford wagon sheet metal work

I know this is going to get tomatoes thrown at me, but this stuff about trying to salvage 50 year old brake lines is just false economy. Particularly on a single master car, a pin hole is all that stands between you and the telephone pole you're approaching at a curve in the road at 45 mph. I have installed a half dozen sets of new brake lines on cars in the last year and not all because they're leaking. Lines that look seemingly ok on the outside and weren't leaking were replaced because of age, and some when they were taken out and had to be tweaked a little to fish them through, go {kink} {dribble dribble dribble}. They are just foil on the verge of giving out. The simple fact of the matter is, lines do corrode from the inside-out. DOT 3 is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) and is what causes the corrosion you see inside master and wheel cylinders when you replace them. If you see that going on there, I guarantee you it's going on inside your lines. As a matter of regular service, my customers get brake fluid flushes about every three years. In fact, I just did a '47 Cadillac today that I last did three years ago and guess what -- it came out orange. This car lives in ideal storage, but it's an open system and the fluid will degrade whether you want it to or not. Don't fool yourself. Send off your originals and have a new set made. For $180 - $250 (depending on complexity) it's the cheapest peace of mind you can buy.

It's just the way their forum is set-up, and since it's set-up that way and it's not my photo, I don't know that it would be appropriate for me to repost it. It's not like it costs anything to join or that any duties come with it. You should just register. Lots of good reading there.

Thanks for the response. At the same time I posted here, I also posted at Ford Barn and received a pretty prompt response. I was quite surprised to find when I checked it again just a moment ago that it has increased to two pages. An interesting read: Photograph wanted of how dipped fenders were hung - The Ford Barn

There has to be one out there and I can't find it. When Model A front fenders were painted at the factory, they were dipped and hung. I'd like to see how they had them oriented when hanging. If anyone could provide a photo, I'd enjoy seeing it. Thanks!

A few years ago I shipped what was essentially a 2' x 3' piece of plywood ('51 Ford wagon middle seat back) only 60 miles from one small town post office to another. After it taking over two weeks get there, and getting a lot of crap from the clerk who couldn't track it, I learned in many cases that rural post office mail is handled by independent contractors and when the pallet isn't full (i.e.: worth moving) they are under no obligation to do so, and it sits until it is. I wouldn't get too wrapped up about it. You'd likely still be waiting on it. As others pointed out -- FedEx is the best bang for the buck.... and even if it isn't, at least they can put your mind at easy by telling you where it is.

I'm a '67 Toronado owner, also. Have you tried?: RockAuto Auto Parts They are a good source for such things. I believe they will have the calipers and hub bearings. To the best of my knowledge, new rotors are not available and you'll have to hunt down good used, or old stock. I'm not sure if it would work directly, but you might also study interchange with Cadillac Eldorados. I don't think every nut and bolt is the same, but some of it is. Please keep me posted on what you find out.

Congratulations are in order for all the hard work the BRAACA Region put into their resurrected swap meet. I wanted to post this sooner, but things got away from me. The day was a complete success with an orderly meet and high attendance. The fact that they had less than a year to put the entire thing together raises the bar that another meet in 2013 will be even better. Below are a few shots from the day: Taken from the shop roof -- visitor parking overflowed onto the grass!: Taken from the back corner later in the day: Thanks to everyone who came out -- next year should be even better!

Thanks! I meant to email you photos today. This is the car I intended to have ready for your 1&2 last year and then it didn't happen with the big move. It isn't scheduled for any tours, but tours aren't out of the question. It will also be shown, but shows aren't the owners motivation for restoring the car. So, yes -- Both! By the way.... that photo was taken at Winterthur on Saturday. I've got to persuade you to attend next year. It is a better and more worthwhile day out that was communicated to you when you were invited last year.

Most all major brands produce excellent quality finishes. As much or more depends on who is applying it. Given the options stated, though, I will say this dyed-in-the-wool duPont man switched to PPG a couple of years ago specifically because only the local PPG store had someone who could color match by eye. It turned out to be a wonderful thing. This is a paint job that I (mostly) wrapped-up last week -- it is PPG Concept with DP90LF underneath and with regard to use, application, coverage, buffing characteristics, and appearance, I will use it for as long as it is available:

One last bump before things being Sunday morning.... More spaces were added last week. Should be quite a full house.

In answer to your question, it depends on your coil. You should use a resistor unless your coil has an internal resistor. The need for such will usually be printed on the outside of the coil, or else you can look up your coils part number to be sure.

I might be interested in your 1915 - 1919 frame, but your second set of attachments won't open. Also, what part of the world are you in?