W_Higgins

Fantastic post -- thanks for sharing your progress in such detail.

I say no. At least not in any practical sense given the application. The oils are better and, more importantly, the intake air is cleaner as most driving was done on dirt roads back then. Additionally, if it's just what they call a "bypass filter" and not 100% full flow, you're only getting a minimal benefit, anyway.

Shoot me a p.m. with your email address and I'll relay to you the information that was shared with me. Good eye. The wheel spinner was an engine stand. I modified it to hold the wheel at an upward angle and installed bearings for the shaft. It was motorized when I first made it, but the gear motor burned up and is now obsolete, so I just spin it by hand.

Interesting that this should come up. I am re-restoring an '07 Autocar for a customer and it has Midgley's that the previous owner had converted to 30 x 3 in. clinchers several years back. Actually, I painted one of them just a couple of hours ago: Let me check with the previous owner and see who did the work for him. I think it's quite a chore, as I was told they were welded on all the way around.

For most cars of the period, 0.010 intake and 0.012 exhaust is standard when cold. If you're setting-up a new engine, that will get you running and then you can tweak it after it's hot. You can probably go as high as about 0.015 - 0.017 if you're paranoid about burning them, but anything much over that is just going to contribute to it being noisy. Do the final set hot, though. There's a reason the manufacturer specified it that way.

On the Lincoln, the choke is as important to reliable cold starting as is a proper fuel pump. Make sure that hot air tube going to the exhaust manifold is hooked-up correctly and that the passages under that plate bolted on the manifold are clean. There's a lab mouse maze under that cover and they plug up. When your choke can't breath through the intake hole on that plate, you have to set it so it's full-open at too low of a temperature, and when the car cools off it won't close. Trying to cold-start a 430 with the choke anything but fully closed will fight you like it's bad fuel delivery.... which in a sense it is, just at a different point. I'd think a simple check valve alone would fix your Pontiac problem, but in an ideal world if everything is tight it wouldn't do that. It's probably because when the bowl goes dry from sitting and the needle opens it's like the finger on a straw thing. If you're still going to do the pump, though, I think you need a bypass like you've shown in the photo. With regard to pump pressure, I've never seen an electric that goes that low because typically they are replacing electric or mechanical pumps that make that sort of higher output. I have a Franklin in here right now that someone had fitted an electric pump to (was originally a vacuum/gravity tank) and it was making about eight times the pressure it needed where it should be a little less than 1 lb. I had trouble finding a regulator to go that low, but did buy one from Summit that gets close and the car can deal with it better until I scrounge up the pieces to fix the original vacuum can. If you need the part number for the regulator, I can dig it out for you.

Below are the other pages. Sometimes the instructions in a Dyke's are generic, and "worst case scenario". The '17 Buick I did didn't have lapped ends, either. I've also relined a cone clutch for a White and it didn't have lapped ends, but it did have the spring loaded plungers, in which case you certainly wouldn't want it cemented.

I can't speak regarding your Pontiac (which is probably still much the same), but I can tell you from experience that my '60 Lincoln will sit for six months at a time -- get in, hit the key, and in a few revolutions it fires off. You weren't looking for this recommendation, but I'm going to do it anyway -- why don't you just try your Lincoln without it and see where it goes? Your car is identical to mine in that regard. If your carb and pump are within spec, every extra connection and part is just another leak waiting to happen.

O.K., great. There is more on care and maintenance that I'll try to post to that album later and will let you know when I do. I corrected my earlier post -- that information came from a Twelfth Edition Dyke's, just in case you try to seek out a copy. The Thirteenth Edition still has the information, but by the Twentieth they had omitted it.

A friend told me the "Download original file" option on the photo sharing site isn't working and I don't have the time to figure it out. If you can't read it as you see it there, shoot me a p.m. with your email address and I'll send you the original photo as an attachment.

Sorry to be so slow with the promised information. I found the source I mentioned, which is a Twelfth Edition Dyke's Manual: Clicking the image should take you to where it is posted and there will be a little button toward the top-right of the photo that looks like down-pointing arrow that will allow you to, "Download original file" where you can save it to your machine and enlarge it, or possibly read in place. It covers a lot of the details about which you were asking.

That's a good suggestion. I'll take a more critical look. In particular, I removed the pressure line that runs from the left side of the engine, around the back, and has a special fitting block held on with two bolts hoping that was it, but I pressurized it and it's not leaking. The other thing that bothers me about it is I can clean it off and run it at a fast idle with 40 psi oil pressure and it won't do it. If I take it down the road and get out and check, that's when it's coming out. That makes me think it's the gasket where the cylinders attach since pressure alone isn't enough -- it's like it needs to be slinging it around vigorously. The valve and side cover gaskets are new -- partly hoping that would cure it and partly just because it was time.

Yeah, I already degreased everything before looking as it was already such a mess. All I get is oil emerging from somewhere I can't see and running down the side of the block by the starter. I'm going to ask around and see if someone has a fiber optic camera I can borrow. Are these heads known to crack in that location?

Or try contacting the place I mentioned above....

You won't be money ahead to do a spray repair on a simple part like this because you still have to re-machine afterward. It's easier to just cut a new one. It's economical for things like crankshafts because making a new crankshaft is so complex. Call REMPCO: Rempco, Inc - Quality Replacement Parts for Industrial Machinery .... and talk to Gilbert. He'll get you on the right track.

I'm working on the above mentioned Buick and have an oil leak I can't pinpoint. It's coming from the right-rear of the block running down next to the starter. It must favor the right side because it doesn't run down the left at all: I've removed the oil lines to-and-from the oil filter, including the whole line that runs behind the block, and looked for cracks. Everything looks perfect. Is this most likely the gasket where the cylinders meet the crankcase? It's just impossible to see back there. Sitting here running at a fast idle won't do it -- I have to take it down the road and it's a pretty substantial leak. By the way, I just replaced the valve and side cover gaskets, so that's not the source.

It's late now and I'll be away from the computer tomorrow, but give me a little time and I can find what we've discussed. It sounds like you'll be waiting on your material for a bit, anyway. Every pre-war car owner should have a Dyke's manual. It's full of everything you need to know about your car, especially more popular ones like your Buick.

This is exactly what happened to the '17 that I mentioned earlier and it looked just like your photos. I was able to just tear it off by hand. The material on that car was 1/4 in. and I didn't go to the extent that you did to source it -- just went to the saddle shop across the street. Still have the leftovers, in fact. No doubt that you probably will get something more will suited to the purpose. On the hair vs. skin side discussion, I want to say it was skin side out (skin being the "fuzzy" side). I have photos I can consult but it was before I was using a digital camera, so sharing won't be possible -- at least not immediately. I think I found most of the information that I needed in a Dyke's manual. There is also a pretty neat geometry trick for laying out the cone on a flat surface that was in a separate publication and I've posted it here before. Rather than retype it, I'll try to hunt down the post and copy/paste to this thread.

Looking at my old post, I'm certain I had all four photographs there and now they're gone. This is what I have:

Whoops, sorry about that. It was in my old post, but I've since moved a few miles, anyway: Kennett Square, PA. 19348

I still have this for sale: http://forums.aaca.org/f119/235-1962-chevy-block-hot-tanked-292933.html It's not NOS, but it is clean and you can tell what you're getting.

Ah, yes, this is still his son. Jess retired last year and sold out to him, then Charlie moved it to Lincoln University to get out of the high rent place they had in West Chester, but still the same great knowledge base and skill you knew from before.

Miller's is the best in the area (if not one of the best in the country): Miller & Testerman Automotive Machine Shop Not the cheapest option out there, but if you had used them the first time, you wouldn't be making this post right now.

Oil probably wouldn't have helped. It was likely either the few seconds it took the new pump to "load-up" or else you have a lifter tick. I don't know how used your car is, but 430's with some miles on them can tend to have lifter issues.

I fixed a problem of this very same description on a 1917 once. The clutch lining was the original and in very poor shape. It was tearing off of the cone and sticking to the flywheel. Everything was traveling like it should and the pedal could be mashed to the floor, but the lining just wasn't letting go of the flywheel.