Owen_Dyneto

For cores of equal thickness and area, cellular types have thinner water films and more wetable area and thus offer superior cooling, though obviously at a price.

Based on current prices here in the New Jersey/New York area, $670 sounds reasonable for a tube-and-fin radiator and $3000 sounds about right for a cellular core. I believe the original was cellular - was it not?

I've forgotten, is that a multiple disc clutch or a single disc?

Ive been buying Packard parts from Kanter's for nearly 40 years with generally very good and occasionally just excellent service and can't recall a single significant problem. Also Dan is a true Packard enthusiast and gives quite unselfishly of his time to help other Packard folks with their problems. That said, I really can't understand why someone would want the vagaries of mail order parts when they can walk into almost any autoparts store and get distributor caps, rotors, points, condenser, ballast resistor, generator and starter brushes, etc. for most any Packard from 1941 and up (and some earlier) across the counter in either NAPA/Echlin or Standard Ignition brands. If a part# listing is needed, let me know and Ill try to post it.

Sears (Craftsman) still makes and sells these manifold wrenches. Suggest you buy one, they are handy to have in your tool box.

Just confirming an earlier response, the radiator weight sits on the rubber pads, the balance of the hardware goes below the frame channel.

Headlights are almost always on a circuit breaker, not a fuse, so that you have some lights even with a short. This goes back at least to the early 1930s. So, the intermittent effect you observe has nothing to do with the cigar lighter, it's the cycling of the circuit breaker for the headlights. You have a short in the headlight circuit. If your car still has the original wiring, no doubt you've noticed how badly the insulation deteriorates, more so under the hood with the heat, so I'd look first at the harness running forward from the cowl. BTW, circuit breakers use a bimetallic strip to conduct the current, excess current overheats it and it bends away from a contact set, breaking the circuit. When the circuit is open long enough for it to cool (15-20 seconds), it makes contact again, then overheats and breaks the circuit again, etc.

You might contact Frankford Plating on Orthodox Street in Philadelphia. They are one of the most skilled shops in the US in doing delicate diecast parts.

I'm going to assume, time will tell if correctly or not, that a 9th series comes apart the same as the 11th series. I believe they should as they are basically the same bodies and chassis. You say you have chrome shutters so you probably have a Super 8 or Twin Six, but I believe all series disassemble the same. You'll remove the entire radiator, shell, and shutters as a single assembly and then remove the shell to access the shutter assembly. It's actually pretty obvious with a bit of study how to take this all apart. Remove the hood by removing the hinge end-brackets, and lift it off. The hood will want to flop and fold so you'll want two or three others to assist with this. Remove the radiator support rods which run to the cowl. Remove the radiator hoses. There is a support rod behind the shutters to which the headlight support arms bolt with 3 acorn-headed bolts. Go underneath and you'll find one or two large nuts (with cotters as I remember) which hold the base of the radiator cradle into the front crossmember, remove them and when you remove the radiator, take note of the position and numbers of shims and rubber pads. You'll also want some help in lifting the radiator/shell/shutters as the assembly is a bit heavy.

This is a well-known Packard that made the rounds years back, though it hasn't been seen much recently until now. Mr. Pushbutton is exactly correct, it was created by Ed Macauley when he was in charge of styling. Last time I saw it was up in New England perhaps 15 years ago and at that time it had been altered with a Chrysler hemi V8 under the hood which is thankfully gone now.

Parking lights were called parking lights for a reason. When I was younger you were required by state law here to leave them on when parked in the street. I suppose that requirement is no long in force. The lower the candlepower (and thus current draw) of the bulb, the longer you can leave them on without drawing the battery critically low. My guess is that these little lamps were accessories designed to meet the "parking light" requirement at a reduced battery drain.

Looks like a great car. Interesting that it has the (Standard) Eight front end treatment, that is, chrome radiator shell and painted shutters. Of course the standard treatment for a Super Eight would have been chromed shell and shutters, though any combination was available.

Rebuild kits for the pumps turn up from time to time, and of course you can just buy a rebuilt pump from Kanter's or Max Merritt. You could also remove your pump and send it to Lares for rebuilding.

Same gasket used thru 1936 on Eights and Super Eights. Sounds like a repro gasket and not a very copy at that. Shouldn't make a difference which way it's mounted.

That is a good point and the third hose at the rear is often overlooked, you did a good diagnosis. However please note that the car in question has vacuum boosted mechanical brakes, NOT hydraulics.

If the compression isn't up to snuff, you'll never get decent gas mileage so that should be a priority on your list. Do it with a warm engine, all plugs removed, throttle and choke valves propped open. At least 3 compression strokes or until the gauge stops rising will give the correct reading. If you don't know the condition of the points and condenser, best to just change them now. After a short drive, just reach under and feel the brake drums. If you have a dragging brake, that drum will be much hotter than the others, maybe even too hot to touch. Driving at a continuous 75 mph is really flogging an old car of this vintage. You probably should expect gas mileage to drop 35% or more between 50 and 75.

Radiator removal is pretty much of a snap. Just remove the upper apron between the radiator and grille, and of course the hoses. Takes a little effort to get the top neck above the cradle (wiggle & jiggle), and loosen the fan belt so the lower neck can clear the fan. Should take about 15 minutes.

First question you should ask yourself is what is the internal condition of the engine, for example what the compression reading? You need to have all cylinders at or near 105 psi for good mileage. Secondly what's the state of tune-up (plugs, points, ignition timing, etc.). Other things to consider is tire inflation pressure, carburetor float level and choke (wide open, I hope, when hot), and you might even consider checking the main jet and metering rod sizes. And of course lastly, your driving habits. My experience with 356 engines is that I got about 18 mpg back in the days of good old leaded gasoline. More recently with MTBE gas, about 17. Most people I know driving 356 cars with OD now get about 15 with the ethanol gas.

You should find that you'll minimize problems getting incorrect or unsatisfactory parts if you invest in a parts book and order by part number. Also inquire first about whether you're getting an NOS, NORS or reproduction part. Either of the latter two can vary in certain details.

Peter, the 35 uses the Bendix 2 shoe system, not the 3 shoe. I do agree with you about not tearing down the differential unless you have some really compelling evidence the problem is there, those differentials are over-built and internal problems with them nearly unheard of.

I'd bet that Packard used multiple suppliers for tires, just as they did for generators, starters, distributors, and the like. I have no absolute proof of this, but if you look at the pictures of the Howard Hughes/Jean Peters 1955 Caribbean, photographed many years ago upon its sale from the Hughes estate with only 400 some odd miles on the car, you'll note those tires were Generals.

If you're going to try epoxy, try one of the J-B Weld products, one of them is specifically recommended for grinding, drilling and tapping.

I did the tank on my 34 Packard about 11 or 12 years ago, never a problem since. These are hard tanks to do because they have internal baffles to prevent sloshing, with small screens to let the gas move from one internal compartment to another, thus the issue is to keep the sealant from closing off the screen mesh. I suspect that most of the success stories coating your own tank were with tanks in relatively good condition, and the horror stories were on tanks that were very poor and probably should have been replaced or repaired by professionals.

If the geometry prohibits just drilling and tapping for the next larger size screw, there are many brands of thread repair kits, including Helicoil. Just browse a good industrial supply catalog or website like MSC or McMaster-Carr, you'll find many styles and types and sizes.

Split opinions on this, some prefer to install them dry but I've installed MANY Packard heads and use Permatex copperized gasket cement in spray form, and hang the gasket and spray both sides just before installation. Rolled over beads on the gasket should face the head. Don't forget to run a thread chaser over the studs and thru the nuts to insure that the torque you measure is the true clamping force and not partially the friction from dirty threads.