Clemster

Thanks guys. We took the 29 to Weber tire in Fairfax, VA. We chained down the car and bent the tie rod down a smidgen. Scary. the tow in is now 1/8 and she steers very well. The process took 2 1/2 hours of trial and bend. clem

I seeing tire wear on my 29 Packard. The wheels and toe in to 7/16ths which I think is too much. The tie rod has a 2 inch bend down in the middle and not threads are showing beyond the tie rod end on either end. I can rotate the tie rod only a partial turn before the rod middle hits the pan. How do I proceed from here? Clem Clement clem.clement@cox.net

Thanks all. Time and $ stand in the way. I did do a 39 Ford pickup wiring harness last winter. Simple. The Packard has much more challenges. I'll fuse theline at the battery junction box. Oh and I do have a cutout on the battery -terminal. clem

I have a 29 Packard 633. I'd post a photo if I knew how. I'm frightening about my original wiring. It is all connected, but lots of tape, flaking and liquid insulation. I'd like to instal a fuse someplace. At the battery junction box, I still have the rubber bulb over the connection. It is cracked and won't stand for much movement. I think I can remove the harness line from the big stud and add a fuse at that point. Or I could remove the line from the ammeter. The wire is very fragile. Suggestions, please. Clem Clement

Update: Brake switch repared the old fashioned way: lots of electrical tape. One of the red waffers insulators is gone. The one remaining let the wire end fitting strike the cross plate. On the tailight, I rebuilt a spare that I had. A friend came by and thought I could back the broken screw end out with a carb jet drill. Sunday I was more relaxed and not so mad. I stared down the original for a while. I took a fine drill by hand and spun it against the broken screw end. There was a minute edge on the break and the drill cutting edge would catch it. 2 minutes and the brass end was in my hand(:>). Golly that is a fine screw. Plus what a silly arrangement with the 2 copper straps going to 2 different bulbs. I did not remove the entire light fixture. I would have had to remove the light bracket from the frame and that seemed scary. happiness is a brake and running light!! The backup light is intermident and the switch is loose in its midsection. I plan not to fool with that. Thanks all Clem, the happy.

I had Rochester Clutch and brake rebuild my clutch and brake. They did a super job. They have the original specifications plus an understanding of how things wear over the years. They also packed the throughout bearing and replaced the pilot bearing. They recommended I pinch off the Bijeau line to the thro out bearing which I did. I also put some no-seize on the spline. To date I have shimed the end of the clutch pedal shaft and flipped over the trunion. The clutch is better but still drags. We found a frined with a 26 Packard whose clutch drags as well. He does like I did: starts it in gear and never goes to neutral. I must say I'm very blue this morning. We raced all week to get my Packard ready for a Concourse at Mt Vernon. It rained 4 days and is finally clearling. Too wet for me to roll plus the car is not ready. The brake light switch is shorted out and one of the tiny brass screws in the tail lite assemby failed so I have no running tail lite. All that junk in the brake lite switch is a mystery to me. I have one wire taped in and it works fine. The other connects into the red fiber waifer and that shorts out. What a stupid design! Clem, the down as I really wanted to ride to George's house in my Packard!

I have a 29 Packard 633. I installed a new clutch and refinished flywheel. The problem was that the clutch plate was dragging. It still does. I have adjusted everything I know how to do including flipping the trunion. Suggestions? Clemster