Owen_Dyneto

Values seem to get harder and harder to rationalize, perhaps too many non-hobbyists with too much money getting into what used to be a nice little hobby. But trying to answer the posted question of "is this what these cars typically sell for", a recent Packard postwar price guide give the following for a 1954 Caribbean: #1-$138,700, #2-$102,600, and #3-$76,300. Prices for the 54 convertible are about 1/3 of those.

One factor to consider is that with a high value bona fide Classic such as you have, even though your intention may be to keep it forever, is that when it is finally sold you may well recoup much of the expense of a high quality paint job in the sale.

A solenoid valve? Come on guys, think about it. Since this is a gravity feed system from a vacuum tank, and the head is only perhaps a foot above the carburetor inlet, the hydrostatic pressure on the needle and seat is probably less than 1/10th of a psi. Even the most rudimentary needle and seat should seal that off. I suspect you'll find the fuel leak is due to another cause.

I've used Stabil in coated tanks for a number of years with no problems. My own opinion on Marvel Mystery Oil, which I'm sure many others will reject, is that it's just another snake oil with no real benefits. Good motor oils already contain whatever is necessary for the job.

Five Points has a good reputation. Here on the east coast the premier place is Apple Hydraulics out on Long Island. they likewise to superior work.

I suggest you contact Jay Fischer. Sorry I don't have his contact info handy but he's a long-time Hershey vendor and should be listed in the AACA directory. He's been making rear view mirrors for decades for vintage Packards and other Classics. I looked at his hinge-mount mirror for my 34 Packard a while back and it appeared to be a dead match for the one shown in the accessory catalog.

Assuming it's like other closed Packard's of the era, push up and rotate to release the inner tabs from pins. Be GENTLE!

Phil Bray has been making and selling high speed ring and pinion sets for 32-39 senior Packards for many moons. You'll find his advertisement in most all of the various club publications; sorry I don't have it at hand as I write this. I don't know if he makes them for the rear ends prior to the Angleset.

The 1941 running boards do not use a mat of rubber glued to the steel like earlier cars, it's my understanding that the rubber is actually vulcanized directly to the steel. There are companies that redo these; I believe they spray on a composition not unlike black pickup truck bed liner composition, and then surface it to look like rubber.

$25K sounds high to me, add a few thousand and you could buy a 41-42 180 which is far more car than a 120. Also, I could be wrong but it looks like someone took some liberties with the upholstery pattern.

Check the directions on your particular brand of engine enamel, but generally you don't use a primer beneath them. The engine restoration shops I've seen don't paint beneath the washers and mask them off with old washers before spraying.

The fitting has a restriction in it, but no check valve.

The OD must be filled independent of the transmission via it's own drain and fill plugs.

Rear axle end play should be 0.004 to 0.007 inches.

Lots of high $ restorations making the big time show circuits have black painted fuel pumps and I can't say it's incorrect, but if you look at some of the original factory photos (which unfortunately are all B&W) they sure look to be natural die cast.

Somewhere here I have the 35 Packard Twelve paint codes (names and codes, no color chips); I'll scan and email it to you if you let me have your email address in a private note.

Re the 32 Dietrich stationary coupe, I don't know if those colors are factory-authentic or not, though on a Dietrich nearly anything was possible in terms of color and trim. But the combination is absolutey terrific and period-correct, understated but elegant! Great choices.

I think this topic is nearly exhausted. Let me just say that ALMOST ALWAYS you can't pick better color combinations that the Packard art and color professionals selected when the cars were new.

All the engines were "rationalized" to a common 3-1/2 bore for the 22nd series (1948) so the 288, 327 and 356 all had the same bore, varying in stroke for the various displacements. This continued thru 1954 with the exception of the 359 engine which was both bored 1/16 inch and stroked. The 327 engine was new for 1948, and prior to 1948 the 288 was 282 cubic inches back to 1936, and 257 cubic inches for 1935. The Six came out at 237 cubic inches, 3-7/16 bore and was enlarged to 3-1/2 bore (245 cubic inches) for 1938 Empire Motors, previously MFT of El Paso, has made reproduction castings for various manifolds and cylinder heads over the years. The only heads I'm familiar with are their repros for the Twelve.

I hate to disagree with West, but the prewar "120" engine (3.25 inch bore) was smaller than the postwar 288 and 327 engine blocks both of which had a 3.5 inch bore. So your head is probably for a prewar 120. Packard offered aluminum heads (often along with cast iron, depending on the compression ratio) for the V12, Super Eight, Eight and 120 from 35-39, and then again in 1954 on the 359 engine. The aluminum alloys used were pretty primitive by today's standards and most of these heads have warped, cracked, or corroded and it's a rare case indeed where one is serviceable; the the cast iron heads are in demand, and most of the aluminum ones go to the smelter.

That was an easy one, I located the answer in the 1933 service letters which shows the various speedometer pinions required for the 7th thru the 11th series. The standard rear axle ratios for the 8-40 chassis were 4.07, 4.38, 4.69 and 5.08. You'll most likely have to measure to see which one your particular car was ordered with though the lighter body styles more often than not had the numerically lower ratios.

McMaster-Carr and MSC both have them, as does probably any good industrial supply firm. You want brass, right?

Dual rear spares where indeed fairly uncommon, and much more so as years passed and tire quality improved. Enclosed is a picture from the latest issue of the Metropolitan Skyline, a publication of the Metropolitan Region of CCCA, Frank Wemple's 4=43 roadster with dual spares. PS - sorry about the picture, perhaps the file was too large.

Certainly nickel plate is correct for a 1924 car and it looks terrific, cars of this vintage where the owner inadviseabily chromed brightwork look gaudy with chrome rather than the restrained look of nickel. Congratulations on considering returning it to the normal finish. There are several types of nickel plate and I don't know that bright nickel is the type of nickel plate that underlays your chrome. I top notch plater would be the person to consult on this question. If you're in the Northeast, try Frankford Plating in Philadelphia, one of the best in the country.

There is something else of a curiousity in that picture. Take a look at the wheels and you'll see what appears to be plated metal valve stems; it's pretty generally accepted that 1934 was the last year for these.