Rusty_OToole

I recommend you go on as you are. You are getting the maximum fun and interest with minimal expense and heartache. If you buy a car I have a feeling it will be a big disappointment and a pain in the neck.

The easiest option would be to buy the right carburetor. If you don't want to do this, you might be able to jimmy up a couple of switches. One is "on" when the throttle is completely closed, it controls the shift. The other is "on" when the throttle is completely open, it controls the kickdown. I have thought of installing switches on the throttle linkage bellcrank but found it easier to get the right carburetor.

Chryslers don't drive like tractors and neither should your Chevy. I know guys who have similar Chevs. They went over the front end, replaced worn parts, and filled the shock absorbers. Then got an alignment done. This completely transformed the steering and removed all desire for a different front suspension.

Well better go back to the guy who says a 413 will fit easy and ask him how to do it. You learn something new every day. I would love to know how to do this job, back when I was doing engine swaps I would have thought it was hard. Joking aside, I would be trying to get the original engine running. I have brought several of those old flathead sixed back to life, usually I can have them eating out of my hand in a couple of hours. If it runs and has good oil pressure and good compression I wouldn't think of changing it. If the engine was worn I would rebuild it before I did an engine swap. The engine may look small for such a big car but they are foolers. The long stroke engine has high torque in the low and mid range where you need it. They are no race car but have plenty of power for all normal driving. If I wanted a classy car with lots of room and comfort, I would want one like yours. If I wanted a fast car I would buy something else.

Some Dodges had a Fluid Drive with a 3 speed manual trans. Could yours be one of those? Gyromatic was Dodge's name for the M6 self shifting transmission I believe. An M6 equipped car had 2 electrical switches built into the carb. Carter Ball & Ball or B&B carb was used on Plymouth DeSoto and Chrysler. It seems someone changed carbs to one off a manual trans car. Or your car has the manual trans. Are there any electrical wires on the right side of the trans? M6 has a switch, a governor and a solenoid all wired thru the carb switches.

"Now i have some problems with the oilpressure. It is about 40 when i drive but when i stopp at a redlight,it goes down to like 20 or less." Excellent. Factory spec calls for 45 - 55 PSI @ 30 MPH (50KPH). 20PSI at idle is excellent. "Thanks. And how about the discussion of detergent or not and mineral or not?" Multigrade, detergent oil was introduced in 1951. Chances are, it was used in your car as soon as it became available. I know in North America 10W30 motor oil was used automatically for all oil changes unless the customer said different. This was in the fifties, sixties and seventies. Talk to some old mechanics and ask what they used on cars like yours, when they were in common service. Synthetic oil not recommended because it leaks through old seals and gaskets. I would use a good brand of 10W30 oil. 50 is way too heavy for the engine crankcase. Save it for the air cleaner, it is supposed to be filled with 50 oil (in warm weather) below freezing, when weather is below 0c, use 30 oil in the air cleaner. This subject has been discussed many, many times. If you do a search you should find plenty of opinions. I prefer to go by facts. When your car was made, Chrysler recommended 10W oil for below 0c, 20W20 for summer, 30 for hot weather over 70F (21c). 5W for extreme cold weather (0F or -18c). I don't think you will be using your Chrysler when it is that cold. These different grades were replaced by 10W30 when it became available.

Why not buy a bender and some standard lines from the parts store and fit them yourself? Ranger and Pacer were Ford based, the brake lines should be the same. Corsair and Citation were a larger Mercury platform.

Cadillac used an air compressor in the twenties and earlier. They pressurised the gas tank instead of a fuel pump. You could pump up your tires too. The compressor was built onto the transmission. Pictures would help identify your compressor.

I have had several of those flathead sixes and almost always, can get them running with minimal work and expense. Even if it is worn out, they are one of the simplest and easiest engines to rebuild. All parts are available and they are not expensive, $75 for a set of six NOS pistons, how good do you want it? If the rod is not sticking thru the block, or the block frozen and cracked, I wouldn't think of an engine swap. If someone told you a 413 is a simple bolt in swap he is a liar. You would have to replace the engine, trans, driveshaft and rear axle for a start. Radiator, motor mounts, then there is interference with the steering. Exhaust, wiring, conversion to 12 volt electrical system. It can be done but a lot of work. If you are wondering how a flathead, six cylinder engine can power such a big car read this article . It is a real eye opener . A DeSoto is practically identical to a Chrysler Windsor except for the grille and trim. This one happens to be the 8 passenger sedan (limo) version, about 2 feet longer and 1000 pounds heavier than your car. 1951 DeSoto Suburban cars - long term report / car review with trailer towing

They were more or less a universal fit and would go on most makes of cars. Some were sold by car dealers and would be marked with that make's logo but most were plain.

My guess is there is something wrong with the starter. If it turned over before and nothing else has changed.

If it jumped time it wouldn't run at all. Have you done a compression test?

Someone who does vinyl tops might be able to help. Is there and antique car club in the area, the members may know someone? The roof is covered with chicken wire, or poultry wire (finer mesh) then cotton padding used by upholstery shops, then thin muslin cloth. Use long needles stuck through the cloth, to push the cotton around until it is smooth all over. Then the vinyl or rubberized material goes on.

It wouldn't scare me. Lots of cars came with no oil filter. 67000 is close to the life of an engine in those days especially with no oil filter. You might want to do a compression test and check the oil pressure to get a line on the engine's condition. Of course a lot depends on the price, the higher it is the choosier you should be. It is not hard to add an oil filter, they were available as a dealer accessory or from any garage. They are not hard to find and can be added in an hour or so.

What do you want to bet every politician in America has heard this story? And if Adelson calls he will pick up the phone right away thinking "Geez if he gave $10 mil to that loser....." Furthermore some of you are talking as if the buyer has blown $27 million on a car. Not hardly. If he keeps it in good shape what do you suppose it will be worth 10 years from now? My guess is, a lot more than $27 million, and probably more than $27 million in government bonds @ 1.75%.

In those days there were Chrysler/Plymouth, Dodge/Plymouth and DeSoto/Plymouth dealers but no Plymouth dealers. The Plymouth people never stopped complaining about this, saying the lack of dedicated dealers accounted for Plymouth always trailing Ford and Chevrolet in sales. Naturally all the dealers preferred to upsell customers to a more expensive model if possible and Plymouth lost a lot of sales this way. Dealers didn't seem to need to sell a lot of cars back then to stay in business. In the fifties I lived in a town of 5000 or so that had a Studebaker, Ford/Mercury/Ford truck, Chrysler/Plymouth, Chev/Olds/Cadillac and Hudson dealer. There was also a VW dealer and a short lived Fiat dealer.

England seems to have a highly developed niche in the mass media for building themselves up by tearing others down. This is a lot easier than actually accomplishing anything. I'm sure the tendency goes way back but it seems to have become a full blown mania since they finally realized their country was a has been, some time in the 80s.

About as much compression as a pantywaist handshake to quote Tom McCahill. They weren't going in for high compression engines at that time. If you want the gory details a 2 minute web search should turn up something. Sorry I don't know the answer off the top of my head.

Do a web search, you may find a picture of the engine compartment of a 72 Mercury. They usually had a white plastic container. It may have been specially moulded to fit into the available space.

I had the booster on my New Yorker rebuilt because it did not work. Afterwards it still did not work. Turned out there was a mud dobber nest in the vacuum line where it went in the manifold. I suppose at some time the hose was left off and the wasps got in . Once the line was cleared and vacuum supplied the brakes worked fine.

..... so the author had his say. Then shut off his computer and got out his bus pass for the long trip home to his bedsit in Hemel Hempstead.

How fast does the engine turn over? If it is noticably slower when hot it may be time to rebuild the starter.

Try putting in a thermostat. You should also have a coolant recovery container if the car did not come with one. I believe they were standard equipment in 1972.

There is the Hollander manual. It was a big book junkyards used to cross reference parts from one make to another. Many of the parts used by smaller makers, were bought from outside suppliers. The suppliers would sell the same part to other makers. If there is a REO club they should be able to help too.

Check your master cylinder. It sounds like the pressure release port is blocked. This is a hole about 1/16" dia that lets fluid back out of the cylinder into the reservoir. The brake cylinder must back off completely for this to happen. Therefore, there must be clearance between the master cylinder and pedal rod. If the rod is adjusted too tight the brake pressure will not release, just as you describe. If the pedal clearance is OK, perhaps the cylinder was assembled incorrectly. Or if it was sleeved they may have forgotten to drill the hole .