Larry Schramm

I believe that the CHMSL (center high mounted stop light) is powered directly from the brake switch.

Here is George McMurtry's phone number 308-586-1930

Love the blue flame wrench

I also had a banjo bolt one time with the holes through the bolt mis drilled.

I would also recommend Permatex pipe sealant with teflon. It is avalilble with a GM part number along with the permatex at the auto parts store.

There was a guy that I met in Chickashaw this year that made wheel pullers. All you need to do was send him a proper fitting hub cap. His name was George McMurty. He charged about $125.00 for the puller. He did a GREAT JOB. I will post his phone number when I get up to my trailer where I have his card.

One thing that you might want to do is take part of those fancy seat covers off and you might have perfect original seats. Many times the seat covers were installed when the car was new to protect the original factory seats. Hope, hope, maybe!!!

I like Ron have the exact timing light and use it on my 6 volt truck. Hook the inductive pick up on number one spark plug wire and the two battery connections to a 12 volt battery on the floor. I would guess that the reason that it says not to us a 6 volt power supply is because of the electronics inside of the timing light. I know on mine when hooked up to a 12 volt supply and you pull the trigger you can hear a buzz. This is with the vehicle not running. That is the way that I know the timing light is getting power.

I will eat some crow. The over all looks of the air cleaner looks like my cub cadet, except you are right Dave. The cub cadet air cleaner is held on with two screws and not the clamp like attachment in the pix above. Size is about the same.

Corvairs had something similar that mounted in the trunk in front on the passenger side. No water though, just hot air.

AC Sparkplug who made lots of speedometers used to have some special lube for speedo cables and gears. Would not run the gears dry.

Here are some freeze plugs on ebay NEW BRASS FREEZE PLUG KIT BUICK 400-430-455ci V8:eBay Motors (item 290336005407 end time Aug-31-09 18:21:26 PDT) And I just bought one of the expandable types for another application about a week ago at AutoZone

I agree with Mark and lube all of the contact points. You do not want to have a dry joint as it will wear worse than a lubed joint with some dirt. The paste issue that would wear the joint would seem to be more an issue with water than oil or grease. My 2cents worth

The air cleaner is the same as on my Cub Cadet

It is an air cleaner from a small garden tractor from the 70's. If the color was yellow, it would be from an International Harvester Cub Cadet tractor with a Kohler engine.

for sure it is an attachment for a wheel alignment. The three points on the back of the adapter attach to the wheel by sliding out to catch the bead area. Then there is a light that attaches on the outside of the wheel on a bearing that allows it to float and it then points to the alignment target which is part of the alignment rack in front of the vehicle to set the alignment. Here are some more pieces for sale that go with that part. Hunter Alignment machine CHEAP

One thing that I have used to put bushings into door hinges is a big pair of channel locks and a small socket over the bushing where it is going through.

The pictures are the same that I have seen from the sit down strike. That was before the union.

The operative step here is to get the system on a vacuum pump and draw it down for a while to get all of the old stuff out. You should then be able to put some new PAG oil in and new R134A in and it should work OK if everything else is good. GM was putting the new style rubber hoses that are required the new refrigerant from the middle to late 80's on depending on the car line. Just remember, don't forget the new oil.

I used polyurethane on mine for the finish. I do not think the type of stain matters?

Could be timing chain guide/tensioner

Those pictures are not from the Buick plant. They are from the Fisher Body Plant 1 on S. Saginaw Street in Flint.

I am guessing that you did not get all of the leads that came with the meter when it was new. The last meter that I had like yours, I seem to remember like Nick said there would be a red and black for battery and typically a green lead for the coil to check the dwell. I am guessing that the shunt lead might be used to check output for maybe the generator. What other scales are on the meter. That would give you an indication of the different tests that the tool is capable of doing.

What are the leads and colors coming out of the meter?

I prefer using the vacuum gauge when you can not find the mark, but after you get the maximum vacuum, back it off just a little bit so you do not get spark knock. You can try maximum vacuum, but may end up with the engine knocking on load or acceleration.