Larry Schramm

I believe that York compressors were a common aftermarket compressor that were used in add on air conditioning and possibly Chrysler products in the 60's. The bracket would be for a particular application. I do not remember ever seeing this compressor on any GM car unless it was an add on unit.

I believe that Klaxon horns were a division of General Motors. Delco Remy Division - Service Manuals You might try calling the GM Heritage Center. Here is their link. Contact Us | GM Heritage Center

I believe that Klaxon horns were a division of General Motors. http://www.delcoremyhistory.com/Service%20Manuals/klaxon%20horn%201933.htm You might try calling the GM Heritage Center. Here is their link. Contact Us | GM Heritage Center

I think it is a gas cap as the tabs are on the inside. Radiator caps were a screw on for the old cars and the tabs hooked from the outside pointing in on newer cars/trucks. Opposite of the cap that you show.

Another term for what you describe is dog tracking. It is caused by the thrust angle of the rear axle off. Here is a good utube of the condition.

Be sure that when you put in the new transmission (and any automatic transmission replacement) be sure to flush the transmission cooler in the radiator BOTH ways with cleaner to be sure there is no trash in the cooler. Can not tell you how many vehicles have had repeat failures because of clogged coolers.

Where were the pictures taken?

Thanks for making this an easy exercise. I was going through another program and it was much more cumbersome. :-)

I know that 0-90 ohms resistance for fuel tank sending units was standard in the early 70's when I was working on the line at AC Spark Plug making them.

Here is one as of 7/16/2013 Vintage Buick Valve Puller Tool 1917 with Buffum Swastica Brand Trade Mark | eBay

If the sending unit is going from 0-30 ohms, then I would say the sending unit is good. The next place to look would be the ground wire from the sending unit to the where it goes. Many times the frame. You can do a voltage drop test by putting a large light bulb like a headlight bulb on the ground wire which goes to the frame. Check the voltage on both sides of the light bulb as it is glowing with the meter lead on a GOOD GROUND. On one side of the bulb you should have battery voltage. On the other side you should have less than .25 volts, but preferably zero. If you have more than about .25 volts, you have a bad ground.

Maybe a Ford Model A?

If the fuel gauge sending unit has a GOOD ground, then the problem is with the instrument panel ground. Pretty simple circuit. If the rare chance the cluster ground is good, then it is with the cluster gauge or the panel wiring it's self.

That is good news.

Before anyone jumps to a conclusion, I would compare the valves to a NEW valve. If a New OEM valve looks like that, then I would say that they are made that way. If not the condition that you describe is called is a Tulip Valve and is caused by an overheating condition. If I can find the one that I have around the house I will post a picture. It was caused by an overheated cylinder.

Cool. Thanks

Any ideas? And here is the link Other Makes : Na na | eBay

I had about 10 Opel GT's when I was in college and a '68 station wagon.

I have been there for a club meeting / dinner with my wife and it was a great stop. The place just oozes history from the building.

I went the route of taking a class also at the local community college years ago and it was money well spent. I agree with Donn2390 that the money spent in class will be well spent.

Can you post some pictures?

I like that idea. I just bought an extra radiator from the salvage yard for one of my cars because it looked brand new. $40.00.

Another place that you might try would be Tractor Supply or another "farm"store

I have also seen the restrictor used in heater cores to slow down the coolant velocity in the heater core on vehicles. This was a factory design installation.

Or setting the points with a dime.