huptoy

There are two types of puller. Knocker and wheel puller. The size of the axle and wheel threads will vary by manufacture and size of vehicle. Just like all wheel bolt patterns today are not the same size. My guess is the thread count will be 16 per inch but the diameter will change. Once you measure the size needed, place an ad in the for sale/wanted forum. First, you can use the type that looks like a bolt only drilled 1/2 way through, sometimes called a knocker. This is screwed on the axle. Raise the wheel, on the other side of the car, off the ground. You hit the knocker of the wheel on the ground with a large hammer. This will cause the wheel on the ground to break loose from the axle. These come in various sizes based on the diameter and thread count of the axle. Second, you can use a bell shaped wheel puller that screws on to the wheel where the hubcap attaches. You then screw in the bolt located in the center of the bell. This will put pressure on the end of the axle and force the wheel loose from the axle. Again, you will have to measure the size of the threads on the wheel and the thread count to get the correct fitting puller.

I replaced the fuel pump with a non-vacuum side and hocked the wiper line direct to the manifold. The wiper works but has the usual problem going up hill. I try to avoid driving in the rain as I don't enjoy cleaning it up. Yes, I will need to go the carpet route.

Do a search on ebay for "leather key holder". I just saw several ranging from 2.99 to 6.99 plus shipping.

If the problem is your vacuum, I had a vacuum leak and it was the line for the windshield wiper. The leak was under the dash where the rubber hose connected the two metal lines.

There is a Willys on ebay ending October 5th, take a look. check item # 160287968197

For show, I would look for one with an 8 to 10 foot floor. A 15 ft trailer will actually be a 12 ft as the 3 ft hitch is included. In Ohio you are permitted to put antique plates on a trailer and register period plates. A real find would be an Airstream "Bambi" which is the smallest they built, about 13 foot.

Do you plan to use it as a camper or only as a show vehicle? You will have great difficulty stopping a 1,000 pound trailer with drum brakes without trailer brakes. When you look at a trailer, take bathroom scales and check the hitch weight. You want the hitch weight to be about 10% of the trailer. Get some one of the same weight to stand on your bumper to see how much the car will squat. You could need to add air shocks or a class 3 equalizer hitch. Vintage trailers will be about twice the weight of a modern trailer. A light weight trailer like a 'Teardrop Trailer' would make a nice show trailer. There is a large camping club of Teardrop Trailer owners and the have been sold since the 1940's. I pull a 400 pound 1937 Mullins trailer behind my 6 cyl 1931 Hupmobile with Steeldraulic mechanical brakes. The brakes will lock the tires with or without the trailer. I always give the car ahead 3 to 4 car lengths in town and more on the highway. This causes everyone in a hurry to pass me.

What car are you working on and what information do you need?

The car is a 1954 or 55 and is a Willys Bermuda. In Ohio the price of 6,500 would be for a running car in good condition. I can't speak for California. Does the engine turn over, remove the plugs and try to turn it over by hand with the fan blade. Is this a 6 cyl or 4 cyl engine? Based on the dust, it looks like has sat for some time. You may need to replace all the rubber hoses including the brake master cylinder and wheel cylinders.

Do you belong to the Hupmobile Club? What type of Hup do you own; year, model, condition, etc. If you have a technical or restoration question, you might make a post there.

Just a HOT TIP. There will be a 6 cylinder 1913 right-hand drive Stevens Duryea touring car auctioned at the Hershey Lodge parking lot Friday evening. The photo was taken on a 70 plus mile tour in July 2007. The car runs very well and and keeps up with cars 30 to 40 years newer.

Ebay has one listed for sale, item number 180283672296 It ends Sep-06-08 18:19:17 CDT

If all else fails, check out your local Motor Cycle shop. They will have rim strips for their bikes.

The Warner Automatic Overdrive unit was used in the post WWII on different models. The Chevrolet, Hudson, Packard, DeSoto, Kiser, Plymouth, Dodge, Lincoln, Studebaker, Ford, Mercury, Willys, Frazier, and Nash all used the model R-10 or R-11. This unit was attached to the back of the manual transmission. Ebay has multiple hits including a reproduction manual dating back 50 years. Do a search on the internet for "overdrive speed" and you will find several hits including some new ones available. You should be prepared to spend 2,000 to 3,000 including installation. I have 1953 Willys Aero with overdrive and free wheeling. In 1950 my father purchased a Studebaker with overdrive. I doubt if you can install one on a front wheel drive.

I believe the Potter trunk was used on the Hupmobile of the 20's and early 30's as a factory unit.

My lights are no better than any one else with a 31 car. I have had the headlights silvered but they are still not great. I don't drive after dark very often. When I am out of town, I use red and white bicycle flashers and attach them to the front and rear bumpers. I set them to flashing and they do get the attention I desire. Vehicles give me respect as they can see the flashing lights from a long way off. Without the flashers, cars come very close before passing but with the flashers they change lanes about 200 feet back.

It appears you have a "CUT OUT" rather than a "VOLTAGE REGULATOR" electrical system. The voltage regulator was not used till the middle to late 30's and later. Your expected results describe the feature of the voltage regulator. The cut out system operates as you described. The cut out will not permit charging until the voltage in greater than 7 or 8 volts. At this time the connection will close and continue to charge even when the battery is fully charged. The cut out is designed to avoid draining the battery when the generator is creating less than 6 volts. Physically, the cut out usually sits on the generator and is about 2 1/2 inches long, 1 inch wide, and 2 inches high. It will have one wire from the generator and a second wire to the battery.

I use an electric fuel pump on my 6 cyl Hupmobile and, for looks, direct the gas through the vacuum pump shell. Use a electric pump that is variable or can be reduced to 1 to 3 pounds. Also a flow reducer will work. Too much flow pressure will cause problems in the Carb. We had a member who restored a 1928 Model M 8 cyl Hupmobile over 30 years ago and used the vacuum fuel pump. Over the years, he had problems with the pump sporadically not working. He would drain gas from the gas tank and prime the vacuum can and usually it would start working. By tearing it down and reassembling the vacuum pump it would usually fix the problem. However, several times he had to trailer the car home. Three summers ago, his wife said no more being stranded on the road and he installed an electric fuel pump and the problem stopped. He left the vacuum tank hooked up to look like it was working. Just remove the insides and block the overflow tube. Additionally, he restored a 1928 Model A Roadster 18 years ago and had the same problem with the same fix.

A year ago I mothballed my 1998 S-10 that gets 20 to 22 MPG for a used 2005 Ford Focus that gets 30 in town and an honest 37 MPG on the highway around Ohio. It had 7,000 miles and I paid less than $6,700. In September we drove to the Outer Banks in our gas hog Buick Lucerne that gets 28 to 29 MPG. On the way back we drove 70 MPH for 410 miles and stopped at Lewisburg WV for gas. While comparing MPG with my son's Honda minivan, a guy in a Prius said he had come from Virginia Beach and was only getting 16 MPG in the mountains and it wouldn't go over 60 MPH up hill. This was his second fill up and while the Prius gets excellent millage in town, it is not a highway car for the mountains. He said his next trip would be in a rented economy car for the gas millage and traveling speed. I guess he was not considering the BTU usage.

There is no specific forum for Hupmobiles unless one is added. There is a Hupmobile Club that prints a Quarterly Magazine plus a a bi-monthly newsletter dedicated to selling or wanting both parts and cars. Once or twice a year the club has a rally some were in the USA. The tour was near Detroit MI in 2006, Dayton OH in 2007, Topeka KS in 2008, with 2009 near Harrisburg PA. There are from 25 to 45 cars and from 60 to 125 people for the 5 day rally. There are about 600 Hupmobile owners around the world with all but about 60 in the USA and Canada. The total known cars is about 1,000 from 1909 to 1941. What year and model is the car you are considering. Is the car restored or is it a project car? Is the car close to you and what part of the country are you located. It would be nice if you will post some photos.

The vacuum line from the fuel pump to the wiper motor does not create a vacuum. It has a slight amount of pressure in puffs. By passing the fuel pump and connecting directly to the manifold vacuum, the wipers work. I guess the problem is in the fuel pump. It looks new and I have 2 backup ones but no knowledge of their condition. I checked with a shop in Hemmings and they want $250.00 shipping. The car has a rubber mat in the front but appears to have indoor/outdoor carpet in the back seat. What is the correct floor covering for an Aero-Ace?

If you are looking to make a hot rod or upgrade the running gear you can save an original Ford by going to Brookville Roadster's web page. They manufacture the frame, as well as the (roadster or coupe) body, fenders, etc. Everything is steel and is an excellent way to start or use as replacement parts. They do nice work but are not cheap. The also can deliver to Hershey in October if your purchase is ready. Their web address is; http://www.brookville-roadster.com/start.htm

I have purchased a Willys, does anyone know of a Willys Aero club? I will be looking for parts in the future and need some expert advice. The vacuum windshield wiper moves about ¼ inch when the wiper is turned on or off. The overdrive is engaged and pulling the handle out doesn’t turn it off.

The thermostat has not been found.

Information provide me on the 1931 6cyl engine states the valves should be adjusted at 8 thousands when the engine is hot. Hupmobile said you could remove the valve covers, run the engine till hot, adjust the valves by reaching behind the carb, and under the exhaust manifold. Of course, you are at risk of burning yourself on the exhaust. I was also informed by 2 older mechanics that you should set the valves at 11 thousands with the engine cold. Just remove the carb and valve covers. My engine runs well and has a slight valve lifter noise. As you know, too tight will burn the valves and you are back to square one.