dlh61olds

To my knowledge, the pigtail was never on an original 61-64 Olds cable. It must be a "generic" item for later or other makes. Dave

Here is Raymond Millers email. He is buying a few parts from me and I know he needs the passenger side molding for the door(not the aluminum) the molding that goes down the center of the aluminum, for a 1962 Starfire. Western Australia email raymondmiller2@bigpond.com Dave

Go to impalabob.com, they are really up on the interchange between chevy and Olds Dave

CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT THIS FITS //// GM PART # V-6463 1950 THRU 1957 GM CARS?????

:confused: CAN ANY ONE TELL ME WHAT THIS FITS ???? GM V-6463

I listened to your noises. You need to get a mechanics stethescope and locate the exact place it's coming from. It could be any number of things. With the scope you can isolate the noise and find out at least the area. For example the crankcase, the flywheel, the heat riser, and so on. Once you have isolated the noise it should be easier to determine exactly what it is. Good luck, Dave Holt

My understanding is: Rochester used the same carburetor number for subsequent years until some change was made. They then changed the number to that year and did not change it again until another change was made. The four year difference could be that the carburetor is correct and the last change was made four years earlier. Dave

It's possible that when you are downshifting you may be reverse loading the tranny and a bad tranny mount could be the culprit. I once had a strange noise on tight hard turns and it turned out to be a weak front engine mount. The fan was contacting the shroud and gave a grinding noise. I hope you find the problem before something fails, good luck. Dave

Another nice original touch are the floor mats if they are all there and in good condition. They are not too durable so it's best (IMO) to use them for show only if you restore the car. Dave

The bright dipped anodized parts are: All of the aluminum around the headlights and grill includung the lower filler. On the 1961 Starfire it also was the aluminum rear panel with the tail lights mounted thru it and the bottom exterior panel on the trunk lid. I could be wrong but I believe the center part of the console was also bright dipped. Dave Holt

I forgot to tell you , you must get the carb adjusted as perfect as you can FIRST. Then go thru the entire adustment procedure step by step. The throttle and kick down linkages are super sensitive to the carb settings. Good luck, Dave Holt

If you are referring to BT-33-1, I have the tool. The distance between the holes (center to center) is 4 and 9/16 " The distance between the center of the stud and the center of the closest hole is 2 and 3/32 ". There is a 1/2 " off set between the stud and the closest hole. The distance between the center of the stud and the farthest hole is 6 and 1/2 " Try Bill Sawyer 120 Monger Rd. Rockwood TN. 37854 423 354 4695 Evenings I bought mine from him. Hope this helps, Dave Holt

It looks like you have all the parts you need to restore the car.The interior door panels would be hard to find since they have no openings for the window cranks. The arm rests are rather delicate so be very careful with them. Also the console plastic is very brittle, it breaks just looking at it. I have not found a good product to repair the cracks. Dahboard is a fairly easy recover. The bright dip anodized parts can be redone now. When I was restoring my 61 I could not find any one to do it. EPA reg's and such made it very difficult. Dave Holt

That is a very nice complete car. I can see it has the electric vent windows as well as all electric windows. The saftey sentinal speedometer is also a very nice option as well as the automatic headlight dimmer and the clock. A little hard work and some of your hard earned dollars will make that a wonderful driver. Trying to restore it to factory original would be too pricey for me. The aluminum trim panels are available as a set from "JASWEST" and are very nice ($3000). Keep in mind the console is exactly the same as the 1961. All the body parts from a 1962 88 or S88 conv. will interchange. The stainless trim and the aluminum parts are really hard parts to find as well as those items unique to the Starfire. The engine and most of the drive train are mostly the same 1961 thru 1964. The stripped down doors are the only body parts that will fit from a 1961. Good luck with your project, Dave Holt

Maybe the L is actually an E. The F prefix indicates 8.3:1 compression and the E indicates Export. Page 1-2 in the 1961 Olds service manual, 2'nd edition. Dave Holt

This really looks like a"quickie" to me. After closer examination of the photos I find - The interior seats should be leather not vinyl. The speedometer has turned over at least once. The speedometer has had water in it, look at the paint peeling. The potmetal trim pieces are missing inboard of the front turn signals. The glovebox is a different color than the rest of the dash. Hood hinges should be black. Data plate has been painted over and rust under the paint is showing thru. Trunk lite has been painted over. The slide on the shift lever is broken. Engine looks filthy. Driver side armrest is missing Dent in lower passenger side door At least one letter is missing on the trunk lid (M). I would definetly want to see this in person before I put a bid on it.There is no limit to the money it would take to make it a showcar. Good luck whatever you do. Dave

It is a Starfire(616) built in Atlanta Ga.(A) number 101 off the ass'y line (1101). There are a few things that would need attention . 1. There is some rust showing in places that look like they are painted over. 2. The backup lights are missing. 3. The console glove box lock is missing. 4. The front speaker grill shows rust and/or paint missing. The car has probably been rained on with the top down. 5. The oil filler cap is not original. If I were thinking of buying this I would make a personal inspection before making a commitment. I would also have someone from a local Olds Club take a look at it first. Dave

There is a Starfire Club Try this link terryolds@aol.com Dave

Every so often someone asks where to find power vent window motors. I replaced mine in 1999 and can't for the life of me remember where I got them. This e bay vendor has a complete kit or, just the motors for anyone interested. E bay item # 350142866069 Nice to know if you ever need one. Dave

Dave Holt Colorado Springs hdl261olds@comcast.net Dave

You should receive the catch by Friday. Dave

Give me your address and I'll send it to you. Dave

The second pic is an extra part.Look at the bumpers.This is upside down. You have to install the small dark piece on the existing console part with the two screws. The small piece is all you need. Dave

Mike, here is what it should look like. It sounds as tho you are missing the catch. It is held in place with two screws. Here are pic's of my console with the glove box removed, and an extra catch I could send if that's what you need. FUSICK has the correct glove box. Dave

I probably have what you need if you can describe the parts. Dave