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dlh61olds

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Everything posted by dlh61olds

  1. I would like to buy an excellent condition "AZURE MIST" (light blue) steering wheel for my 1961 Starfire. The wheel from any full size car (not F-85) fits. Thanx, Dave "dlh61olds@adelphia.net"
  2. Try Alan J. Kris 1872 Portsmouth Way Union, New Jersey 07083 (908) 688-2092 He advertises his service in Journey With Olds Magazine. Good luck with your project, Dave
  3. Henry, I need the passengers side, send your mailing address to "dlh61olds@adelphia.net" and I will send a M.O. David Holt 20 garden Dr. Colorado Springs Colorado 80904 Thanx, Dave
  4. Send a few pic's to Dave Holt at " [email:dlh61olds@adelphia.net".]dlh61olds@adelphia.net". I may make you an offer, depending on what shape the rest of the car is in. I still have one 61 Olds, see attachment. Thanx, Dave
  5. I need the lower front fender "NINETY EIGHT" script for a friends convertible.This is all we need for a newly restored car. Thanx, Dave
  6. Just to let you know how hard it is to find pristine panels for the '62 starfire, the GM Heritage (black) 62 Starfire at the 2005 Nat's had the aluminum panels painted over. Good luck with your project, Dave
  7. Greg, the judges would dock you some points for not having T-3's. It sounds like they only docked you for the Halogens instead of T-3's. The correct bulb for your car is the T-3 without the triangle. Ther are four rectangles at the bottom of the bulb,two tall ones with one shorter one on each side of the tall ones.T-3 is inside the top of the tall ones. "GUIDE" is in the bottom of all four and "SEALED BEAM" follows the arc at the bottom of the glass.I believe 1972 was the last year for T-3's, but not sure. I have judged at Nat's in 2001, 2004 and 2005 . The only gripe I have about the judging of my own car (1961 Starfire) is when the judges do not point out what they specifically mean when they deducts points. Your judging sheet should have read " Sealed beams not T-3's". The info I gave you is from the JWO article and I carry it with me to events for just that purpose, to dispel any guessing when it comes to judging any car. It is the only documentation I have found that tells you what T-3 bulb goes with what year(s) of cars. Look me up in Dallas, Dave. Hope that helps you out.
  8. Mark, I am looking at the TRIDON data sheet for the 550-12 flasher. it shows the power or battery + as X , the load as L and the indicator as P. I think the P is for pilot.Also, not sure reversing the X and L would matter but why not follow MNFRS drawing. Good luck with your project, Dave
  9. Sorry to be so late responding, just too many irons in the fire. George Zervopoulis is the CEO/Owner of Fuelon Inc. His # is 1-800-437-0427. He can tell you about his gasoline product and the stabilizing effect it has on gasoline with ethanol in it. Over time the ethanol will absorb water and the whole mix will stratify into, (from the bottom), water,water and ethanol, ethanol, gasoline. His product really does a good job of preventing this. George is a great guy and will explain it to you. I started using it when I finished restoring my 1961 Olds Starfire. It sits for long periods of time. I also use it in my motor home. I can leave the motorhome sit for a year and it will start right up with a few pumps of the accelerator. I highly recommend this product be used in all collector vehicles that don't get a lot of use. The diesel product is even more effective in diesel fuel if used properly. You can mail order direct from Fuelon Inc. with a money back guarantee. Give it a shot, I think you will be pleasantly surprised. If you aren't already using Lucas Oil Stabilizer in your collector car engines and tranny's you are missing out on a super product. Quiets noisy engines, raises oil pressure and improves cooling. Go to : www.lucasoil.com Thanx for your patience, Dave
  10. Frank, check out "Fuelon" on your address bar. They have a product I've been using for years. I use it in my 1961 Starfire with 10.25: 1 compression with the cheapest fuel I can buy and no problems. It is also great in 2 cycle stuff. No need to drain after any season. Good luck, Dave
  11. Bob, they have a device similar to a drill press and use a diamond faced cutter that I would call a core drill or hole saw. They also lubricate the saw with something, I dont know what it is. It is supposedly a very expensive set up. The man that did the work is not that old, fortyish, but he does a lot of street rod work here in Colo.Spgs. CO. Thanx again to everyone who responded. Dave
  12. Finally, I found a local glass shop that had the tools and skill to put the 2 1/2" hole in the windshield. Cost $15 can you believe that. A real bargain since the glass is safety plate. Enclosed are some pic's of the installation in my 1928 Olds. Thanx everyone, Dave
  13. The spring should be mounted as a throttle return spring, anywhere that doesn't interfere with any thing else. Usually between the front carb. and the water outlet, so that it is not under much tension when the throttle is closed. The idle adjustment should be somewhere on the rear carb. and should control both carbs thru the bar. Make sure the throttle cable is cut longer than needed and adjust the length so that when the throttle is closed you still have at least 1/8" between the knob and your dash or bracket. That will assure that when you want the throttle closed it is positively closed. Leave at least 1/2" extra cable at the carb. end to allow for future adjustments. Good luck with your project. Dave
  14. I am looking for an operable heater switch (rheostat) that controls the fan speed on an old heater. Some had a light that glowed when the switch was on. I am also looking for an Oldsmobile column mounted fan(6-V).
  15. Where can I find a heater switch (Rheostat) for my 28 Olds ????? The one that controls the fan speed.
  16. One pic at a time; this one shows the side view, the center is two inches across with a flange front and back. The unit is installed from the front with the front flange in place. The rear flange is then installed over the handle and is screwed onto the threaded front flange until tight enough to hold the unit in place on the glass.There is a seal on the front flange that keeps water out. Thanx, Dave
  17. Thanx, John, here are some pics of the "SHOTLITE".
  18. I wrote some time ago about my old "Shotlite" that mounts in the windshield. I have decided to mount it but I need a 2" hole in the windshield and the glass shops are afraid of it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanx, Dave
  19. Can anyone out there tell me what the ignition switch on a 1929 Dodge flatbed pickup truck should be ???? Is it a keyed switch, a toggle switch or what ????? Thanx, Dave
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