Glassesguy

Paul: Gene had some great suggestions. His #5 will accomplish what my main suggestion was regarding the points opening and closing. I just like to observe the points directly. Do I understand from your last post you pulled both the + and - wires from the top of the coil and tried to get continuity from each one of them to the center post of the coil? If so, that won't do or show anything. Put those + and - wires back on the coil. The wire from the distributor goes to the - post on the coil. This is the primary lead that Gene refers to. The other wire from the wiring harness goes on the + side of the coil. Recall that it is the magnetizing and demagnetizing of the coil accomplished by the opening and closing of the distributor contact points that induces the high voltage to jump the spark plug gap to be produced by the coil. Gene's test lamp flickering on and off as the engine cranks will indicate if that action is taking place. That's what I feel you need to determine right now. Section 12 of your 38 Shop Manual shows more on the distributor and coil. Wiring diagrams are toward the back of the manual. The stater solenoid is the cylndrical object on top of the starter motor. Coming out the firewall side is a link that goes down to the starter drive that engages the starter pinion to the flywheel to crank the engine. On the front side is the stamped metal cover to which I referred in my last post. The click you hear could be the gas guage needle or the charge indicator needle moving into postion when the ignition circut is energized by flipping the ignition switch. Check this out on your next attempt. Good Luck!!

Thanks Terry. I knew people sometimes referred to the black soot build up on an old kerosene lamp chimney as "lampblack" and removing it was one of those chores my grandmother hated to do in her younger days; but I assumed there was something like this already packaged at one time. Some of my Buick literature would encourage Buick dealers to offer a "headlight tuneup special" or words to that effect to bring in more service customers, so I was curious what they might have used. The flannel cloth sounds like a excellent suggestion too. Are there not some pretreated cloths out there for polishing silverware? Wonder if these might work? Thanks again

Paul: Pull the distributor cap and move it aside, turn the ignition on, and observe the points as they open and close while the engine cranks. There needs to be a spark jumping that gap. If not, turn off ignition and gently scrape the surfaces with a pen knife or ladies nail file. I assume you'll be replacing the points at some time any way, but right know we need to see a spark there. The high voltage necessary to fire the plugs is induced in the coil when the points open, NOT when they close. If you do not see the points open and close, then you'll need to adjust the little set screw on the distributor plate until they do. I assume you have purchased a shop manual( preferably a repro one so you don't mind getting it dirty while working on the car) so you can read up on the distributor and the points. If a blue spark now shows up at the point gap, put everything back together and try your normal starting procedure. Sounds like your plugs are okay, so I'll bet you'll get some firing. By the way, if you are doing this yourself, instead of running back and forth and wondering how you can both crank the engine and observe the points, I simply remove the stamped metal cover on the starter solenoid (it's held on with a small screw), then turn the ignition on and press down on the solenoid contact that is now visible. You won't get a poke, but it does feel different when you do this for the first time. I learned this from older BCA guys years ago when I had a 38 Model 41. I'm enjoying your posts and thank you for taking the time to do this. They bring back memories for all of us when we got our first cars to work on.

Hello everyone: I'd like to polish the headlamp relectors on my 39 Model 41. Shop Manual calls for "lampblack". and not to use any abrasives. What is lampblack and/or what is a good way to do this job? Reflectors are in excellent condition. Driver's side quite silver in color. Passenger side is slightly amber in color. Thanks for your help!

I purchased a rocker panel assembly for the 39 46C I owned at one time from Green Mountain Parts in Orwell, Vt. He was fabricating the panel you're needing for 40 Chevy; but we know that's a different body vs that of the Special and Century. My 39 Model 41 will need repair in that area as well at sometime in the future; but I figured it would have to be custom made. Certain models of Olds, Cadillac, and Pontiac used this same body so you'd think there might still be some demand out there for this part. I'll post if some turn up.

YEYE: Great car! What a find! I agree with Centurion that your car is definitely a 1937. By any chance is it a McLaughlin-Buick brought in to Great Britain from Canada? I understand import duties were far less on "dominion built" vehicles and Canada was considered a part of the British Empire at that time. Perhaps there is a plate on the firewall attesting to the McLaughlin Buick built in Oshawa, Ontario or there could be a plate with the words "Lendrum and Hartman" which was the name of the firm with the rights to import these cars into Great Britain. Please keep us prewar guys posted on your activities with this car. My current prewar is a 39 Model 41; I have owned a 38 Model 41, a 39 Model 90, and a 39 Model 46C.

Carl: Victor's car was built in Flint as indicated by the "1" which starts his VIN number and as verified by by the letter "G" on his body plate. Your Special starts with the numeral "7" which indicates it was built in Framingham, Mass. Your body plate may possibly have the letters "BF" on it to verify this as these letters were used to identify Framingham as the build source. All 51's used an 8 digit serial number with the first digit indicating where the car was built. "1" Flint; "2" South Gate; "3" Linden; "4" Kansas City; "5" Wilmington; "6" Atlanta; "7" Framingham. The next 7 digits were for the serial number done in sequence. Flint Built cars started with VIN number 16031301 so according to my post and theory, both the numeral "1" and the letter "I" could appear. Your VIN would CONFIRM my theory as Framingham cars started with VIN number 76080001. It would be interesting to see if anyone had a VIN with two letter "I"s appearing in the last 7 digits of the serial number, paricularly one of a Flint built car. That would seem to be even more convincing that the letter "I" was used in place of the numeral"1" only in the last seven digits of the eight digit VIN. Personally, I would have thought it would be the other way around, but we know Buick had some kind of reason to do it this way. My source for these codes is the 1936 to 1958 Buick Master Body Parts Book. My Service Bulletin collection unfortunately skips 1951, so I'm glad you confirmed that this info is not in either the Shop Manual or Bulletins.

Victor& Sixpack: Since the letter "I" has shown up in the body of both your serial numbers, I wonder if a decision was made to use that letter character instead of the numeral "1" when the numeral "1" was needed in the 7 digit serial number. The actual numeral "1" would then reserved for use only as a prefix to designate the assembly plant. My parts books don't show anything about this. Maybe someone with a 51 Shop Manual or Service Bulletins can find it in there. Let's really go outside the box and speculate that perhaps there was only one numeral"1" die available for stamping the serial number plates, so somebody hit on the idea to use the capital letter "I" in the body of the serial number. Make sense?? According to Terry Dunham and Larry Gustin in their book "The Buick, A Complete History " Harlow Curtice was such a thorough cost cutter that he ordered "all nuts be reduced a by a few thousandths of an inch to save a fraction of a cent a car". (page 248 of the first editon). Why make 2 dies of the same character when an existing piece can be adapted? Extreme?? You decide.

N I I I C E CAR!!!. We know who's gonna be hittin' the Cruise In's this summer with a beeeg grin on his face.

Ditto to Keith's comment as well!

I have the 65 Color and Trim Book with photos and upholstery samples. What style 65 'cat do you have? I can photocopy and send you a picture. I would have to use snail mail as I'm not knowledgeable how to post online. Wildcats came in 3 series...Standard(462--), Deluxe(464--), and Custom(466--).

bjr: In 1953 the Skylark was part of the Roadmaster series (Series 70). Buick derived the Skylark from a very modified Roadmaster convertible body, but used the same chassis and running gear as the 70 Series. You are correct,though, when you cited the 1954 Skylark as basically the same platform as the Special and Century, although it was more Century than Special. Could you ever imagine GM doing this sort of thing today i.e. bringing out a limited edition and unique body style car on the basis that the VP of Styling and the Division President thought it would be an interesting idea?

Kregg: According to the 1936-1958 Buick Body Parts Book, the correct door handle for your 53 Special Conv. is Gr. 10.527 #4168322Rt and #4168323Lt. This handle is listed as fitting 1951 to 1953 Models 45R and 46C. Will also fit some Olds and Chevys as well. The Super handle you bought will fit all 1950 except convertibles,Rivieras,and wagons; and 1951 through 1953 50-70 series except wagons. The basic casting is listed as having some rear door applications on these series as well. There is an extensive chart in this parts book giving a breakdown of the internal parts on each of these handles for all series; but I assume you're looking for a nice handle casting itself. You can probably transfer most of the innards from the old one. Looks like it shouldn't be hard to resell the one you bought given the number of applications it will fit. Hope this helps.

1928 to 1941 Chassis Parts Book lists Gr. 0.013 "PAD, Engine Support" Part Number 1295821 as "1936 46C-66C-80C (Front,upper)" and uses 2 per car. This is contrasted with part number 1295255 listed as "1936 except 46C-66C-80C". By the way this latter part number is listed as also fitting 1934-35 40series (Front,upper) and 1937 all (Front,lower). This is Buick's wording - not mine. I'm not familiar with the 36 mounting system so I hope this description makes sense. I had my 1939 40series mounts redone with Steele and was very happy with the results. Regarding the top bows, the 1937-38 Fisher Body Service Book shows a picture of how to fold the 37 80series top. I believe the 36 and 37 80C was the same so maybe this might help. The 28 to 41 Body Parts Book shows, on page 68A, a picture of the 1936 top bow assembly. Both these books I cited are available in repro form from Crank'n Hope Publications in Pennsylvania. I bought mine years ago and they have been invaluable for working on the prewar Buicks I have owned.

March 1965 Buick Chassis Parts book lists Gr. 7.503, Pt # 1373210 as rear springs for "Riviera Super Duty Ride". This is a separate # from the regular spring # of 1363994 and also a separate # from the "H.D. Trailer Opt." of 1363995. HOWEVER, the 1973 edition of the Master Chassis Book lists the #1373210 spring with the wording "9000 G.S." for 1965 only, so this would appear to be the number you are looking for. Apparently, somewhere down the road, Buick started using the GS wording for the Riviera springs versus that of "Super Duty Ride". I see no other application for the 1373210 spring. The other two numbers I have listed are shown as fitting both 1964 and 65 Rivieras only. How about trying Eaton Spring in Michigan? They advertise in Hemmings and other publications as having and/or making springs for all cars. Anybody had any experience with them? Hope this helps.

Keith: The 1980 full size Buick catalog shows a picture of the car and its interior plus the little umbrella you remembered. The give-a-away auto show catalog mentioned the Regal Somerset Edition, but showed no picture. A friend in the Pontiac Club has asked me about this car and I remembered there had been an inquiry in the BCA Discussion Forum. My Pontiac friend remembered the Somerset Regal made from 1985-87 on the N Body platform, I pointed out the 1980 was a totally different car. I agree with you, it was a very attractive car.

I believe all big series Buicks from 61 thru 64 and Rivieras from 63 thru 65 used this set up for their duals. Those mufflers are big and heavy. Hope others will confirm this application. Part numbers are different, though.

I own a 65 Lesabre conv without the 400 option. On the body plate on the cowl you'll see the words BODY and PAINT To the left of "PAINT" should be two letters: one for the lower color and one for the upper. Mine is A-A meaning black lower body and black top. Shell Beige would be the letter V. The other sources everyone cited have the letter code right next to the color sample so you should be able to determine the correct color and not have to guess. Hope this helps.

My 36-58 Body Parts book confirms the ID plate numbers that this is indeed the mid year Roadmaster 75. I'm confused about the Body style # 4839 as stated in Derek's reference source as that is not listed for 1957. Style 4739SX is the Fisher code for a Buick(4)Roadmaster(7)4 door hardtop(39)with power accessories (SX). "G" means the car was built in Flint, Trim 723S is blue cloth and blue leather. Paint code is as Derek listed it. A Buick as it should be: big, powerful, fast, and luxurious.

Pete: Will confirm that last answer. 36-58 Body Parts book states "Dyna" and "Flow" lenses are same for 48 70 series with Dynaflow and 49 Models 59 and 79. Gr. 12.182 # 1337010 right and 1337011 left. Bet that will be a beauty when it's done.

Skyking: It would be interesting to see that brochure. I was going by what the 1936 to 1958 parts book listed. Perhaps the wires weren't available at first for the 40 Series in 1955, then later on Buick opened it up. The 1954 Salesman's Facts Book specifically excluded the 40 Series as I showed it to one of our chapter members who has a 54 Special conv. He then understood why he was losing points at National. He restored a set of steel wheels and wheel covers for judging and, in addition to some other upgrades, has achieved Senior status. We should try and locate a 54 and 55 Parts Book to see how the listing was during the year of manufacture and one year later. Wouldn't be the first time the factory changed something for the service replacement market i.e. jacks for the 36 to 41 Buicks. These wheels are beautiful on any of the mid fifties Buicks and look so appropriate, so we're really discussing their use only in terms of judging to the BCA standard. If you like 'em, then put 'em on and to heck with what any one else thinks. Just be ready for the deduction if the car is judged at a National or Regional Meet. If the rest of the car is done very well and this is the only deduction, then a trophy of some kind is probably going to be earned. Whether the trophy is Gold, Silver, or Bronze it's still a recognition by other Buick people of how special this car is. I guess we kind of got off the original subject of this thread which was the 57 Special and some incorrect details. Hopefully others confirmed some of my findings on the correct interiors and use of carpeting in the various body types in the 57 and 58 Specials.

Keith: I should have known better than to open the subject of 53 wire wheels on later Buicks. You are exactly right on the club judging standards. We're going to see these wheels on all sorts of 50s and later Buicks especially now that they reproduced and many will say since the wheels were originally a factory produced part and available across the parts counter at the dealership up til the early 60s as Skyking stated, they should be allowed with no deduction. The BCA has wisely followed a judging standard that allows only FACTORY accessories that were available and listed by the factory for that model or models in the year of the car's manufacture. Let me quote and slightly paraphrase from the 1936 to 1958 Buick Chassis Parts Book on page 252. " Group # 5.858 "Wheels" Part # 1165713 1953 Model 76X; 1954 Models 50, 60,70,100; 1955 All. " Notice the Models NOT listed. 1953 was for Skylarks only. NO wires on 1954 Series 40. NO wires for any 1956,1957,or 1958. Now Buick certainly knew at that time that the wheels were being added to the cars as evidenced by a 1957 Service Bulletin advising mechanics to be careful when bolting "Skylark"wire wheels on to 1957 brake drums. Apparently there were some problems regarding clearance with the balancing weights. The club's 1957 experts probably have the info on this. Obviously,for example, in 1958 someone could have gone to the dealership and bought some wires and had them put on his 58 Limited; however by club standards that is not correct for Class judging and rightfully so. The Parts book makes this very plain and really leaves no room for a judgment call. Plain and Simple. (Wish other things were as clear).Recall in my original post, I did use the word "factory". I'm looking forward to the new Judging Manual to update info to pass along to our chapter members.

Out of curiousity I went to the buicks.net as noted by Derek. The 58 colors are incorrect as shown. These are 59 colors as they are identical to those listed for 59. Lido Lavender was not a 58 color but was a beauty on 59s. I have the color charts and Dealer Trim book to verify. Anybody else notice this?? Please confirm me on this. Thanks.

Just as Derek said. 37 engines started at 3166225 and the Series # was stamped in front i.e. 4 for Series 40, 6 for Series 60 etc. 38 engines started at 3396937 and add the Series # to the front of that number.

My 58 Dealer trim Manual shows a deluxe interior option available on Models 41 43 and 46R which consisted of instrument panel padding and carpet plus different upholstery vs the standard interior. Those interiors carried specific Trim numbers as well. Upgrade not listed as available for Model 48. My 57 year specific (blue cover)chassis and body parts guide lists carpet and instrument panel covers for specific interior tim options as in 1958 and not shown for Model 48. I don't have the 57 Color and Trim samples, but I'd be pretty confident it was like the 58s. Guess Buick wanted to be sure that was their cheapie. Skylark wire wheels not factory correct for any 57, right guys??