Glassesguy

Faust: Sorry for the delay in replying. Been off line for a few days. The 529 number corresponds to part # 1523529 listed as a combination pump for 1940 Ser. 40 & 50 after eng. # 44034048 on Ser 40 and #54034048 on Ser. 50as well as all 1941 thru 1951 Ser. 40 and 50. Admittedly the vacuum section (on top) looks different from the ones I have seen in Buick literature, but who knows what may have been done over the years. The actual # for the 39 pump is the same as the optional pump for the 38 Ser. 40 according to the 28-41 Master parts book. The 36 thru 58 parts book lists AC kit # R-30 as the combo pump repair kit for 1939 Ser. optional pump and all 1940 thru 1951. AC # D-28 is the vacuum pump repair kit while AC # D-18 is the fuel pump repair kit for these years as well. AC calls this a Series AJ pump so while the exteriors may look slightly different, the innards are the same. Interestingly enough, AC stated no exchange pump was avialable for the 38-39 optional pump. Looks like these owners had to have their pump rebuilt vs exchanging for a rebuilt one. That's when it's good to know what other series AC pumps use the same components. I believe the difference between the 39 and 40 early pumps vs that of the later pumps was the size of the mounting holes and bolts holding the pump to the block. Someone possibly could confirm this. Hope this helps.

Yup. Buick went back to the long one for 1958 only. Maybe they needed more room to fit the Air Poise compressor or possibly since 1958 went to a 4 headlight system vs. 1957, Buick had to tighten up the engine bay to hold the same exterior width of the sheetmetal used in 1957. Just a guess.

Ditto that on the jack ID. Dave helped me a few years ago on a small series jack, while I was able to help him on a big series. They are definitely different. I still haven't found a handle yet, Dave. Good to see you are on the Forum.

brian: Great news about the 58 Limited. Long overdue. If the the picture you posted is close to actual production the model looks good. Too bad the whitewalls are too wide. Trouble is there are too many full size 58s running around with too wide of whitewalls as well; then the model makers select one of these as their prototype and that's what gets copied. We both know that what was the correct width for the early fifties is definitely not correct for the 58s and your 59. Anyway, I've learned about several releases just watching you posts i.e. the 53 Roadmaster wagon. Beautiful model as well. I agree with you on the 57 Roadmaster convertible. Detail has been disappointing but it's hard to knock the price. Look forward to any other new ones you happen to spot. Thanks for the info.

Faust: I'll bet that 529 is an Airtex or AC rebuild #. Maybe somebody on the Forum has an Airtex book. I'll check as well. That arm appears to be for the small series and is definitely used but good. Thanks for the great picture and digging for that # on the flange.

Cannot confirm the 39 double pump # for Series 40 --yet. Standard (non-vacuum)pump looked like a regular pump but turned upside down so the glass bowl was on top. Late production 38 Series 40 was that way also. 1938 Series 40 had a double pump available #1523687 as shown in BPS 2.017 It had the same bottom as yours but used a fuel pump section that more resembled that of the 1940 and later versus the one on yours. As the guys have mentioned AC interchanged bodies, and arms depending on their application. Repair shops did it too probably depending on what it took to get the car back on the road especially during the war when parts were harder to get. Check the flange that bolts to the engine for a number. Original number is 7 digits (or sometimes 4 ) but rebuild companies often filed these off and stamped their own 3 or 4 digit number. Take the tape off and let's see that arm assembly. Great picture by the way.

Guys: I tend to agree with Keith and Carl regarding improperly listed items. I would feel that a polite, courteous,and diplomatic response does everyone a favor. The seller gets a better idea of what he has. Indeed many sellers are looking for just such a confirmation. If necessary he can relist an item in a more suitable area such as the correct year for his part. I don't like the puffery, though, of sellers putting an incorrect key word into their ad. How many of you have searched under GTO or GRANSPORT and found someone selling his Lemans or Special. Obviously he inserted one of those words to get the search's attention. Also,I do feel it is not up to us to tell someone how rare or valuable a part or item is. The seller will pretty quickly get an idea of its worth as he watches the auction unfold. As with any auction the seller comes to sell and the buyer comes to buy. When the item sells both the seller and the buyer win no matter what the price is. Both get what they set out to do. My 2 cents for this interesting subject.

Roadie: Re Your Body and Trim Codes. #520 is Whistler Grey as you already knew. With Paint Code #520 there were two wheel colors available. The standard color was Whister Grey with Cartaret Red striping while the optional color was Dante Red with Silver striping. #449 is definitely Red Leather. I don't recall if the data plate ever reflected what color top was put on. Either black or tan was available. Your engine number matches that for 1938 Special. The #4 indicates Series 40 while the rest is the engine #. The car's serial number is on a plate on the frame next to the starter. Don't know about those other numbers you gave. Production on your car per Buick Motor Division figures as listed in the Buick Club of America Roster was 2,473 domestic and 152 exported. Not sure about the mirror unless the difference was the closed cars were woodgrained on the back while those used on the open cars were chromed. Just a guess. Nice car! Tell us more about it.

guys: In a posting in the BCA General site on Lucerne and Northstar engines, JohnD1956 stated he got a quote for $600 to replace the intake manifold gaskets in his 95 Riviera. I just had a mechanic caution me that the GM 3.1 & 3.8 engines are prone to this especially at higher mileages, but not necessarily confined to high mileage cars. The replacemnet gaskets are far better. The GM original design was poor (his words). What have you heard or experienced? I have a 97 supercharged Riviera with 97,000 miles. OK so far but what are my chances of having trouble? How can you tell if one of these engines has had the better gaskets installed? Thanks for your help.

John; I agree with your good words on Jim Hughes. Jim is the assistant director of our chapter and is definitely a go to guy for Dynaflow info. His address and phone is 109 Ashwood Ct., Perrysburg, Oh 43551, Phone 419-874-2393. I'll pass your comments on to him. Happy New Year to everyone on the Forum. The knowledge you pass on to others here is invaluable.

Gentlemen: Although my main automotive interest is Buick, Packard is a second love. I faithfully attend the Motor City Packard meet here in Perrysburg each May, and plan to attend the Packard National in Michigan this year to to appreciate the work being done to preserve the heritage. My question is this: What's the scoop on the die cast Packard One Eighty models by Signature being passed off as a 1938? I know the trunk license plate says 1938 but the body clearly is a standard 1941 body versus that of the LeBaron body used by Signature and others. It's great to see these cars done in diecast and a few will join my diecast collection, but I'm curious if some of the faithful know the story here. Thanks for your help.

Steve: Bruce is correct on the color codes. The numbers indicate the "new" acrylic lacquers brought out this year. You may find a sticker on the inside surface of your glovebox door touting this fact. Your color code of 56 indicates your Super would have a Polar Mist(5) top and a Gold Mist(6) bottom. Other 58 colors,even the Spring colors alluded to earlier, use letters. According to my 58 New Car Order sheet I bought from Norb at a swap meet many years ago, number colors and letter colors cannot be mixed for 2 Tones. 1958 also did not, from the factory, use any contrasting colors under the sweepspear as in 1957, nor did Limiteds have any contrasting colors in the section on the rear fender with the louvers. The factory did show the use of Seminole Red as an optional wheel color with the other colors. Both the 58 Master Chassis and Master Body Books verify this info. Guess it bothered me a few years ago when I saw some incorrect 2 tone schemes appear in the Bugle color photographs of National Meet winners. Someone new to these cars may draw the conclusion these color schemes are correct even though the Bugle and the Judging Manual have pointed out the importance of factory literature and documentation to establish authenticity vs. that of photographs in collector car publications etc. I still love those 58s (especially Limiteds). Sold several over the years. Really ought to get another one to go with all this 58 literature I have!

My 95 Riv had Goodyear Eagle GA's and were very good. I would consider the Eagles as well. Thanks to everyone for all the replies.

You had me worried, Roberta. I didn't think I'd been a bad boy. Glad it was something simple and easy to fix. I hope to get to the Flint swap meet on the 30th.

Hi John: Thanks for the reply and the info. That harmonic balancer is worth checking out. My 39 Buick developed a knock up front. I found a little looseness in the rivets on the balancer. A friend used a press to tighten them. No more knock. On the Riv I assume I should remove the belt and check for looseness. You'd think the dealership could have done that. Flutter noise is still present with the A/C on or off. You're right on the quiet of these cars. They're almost too quiet as I have too much tire whine. At first I swore the front bearings were bad so I changed them. No difference. Tires are BF Goodrich replacements with 40,000 miles on them. Tread still good, but you can bet at replacement time I'll get Michelins. I've had good luck with that brand on several other cars over the years. "Roundest tires made" according to a Service Manager I respect. I confess to not having the shop manuals for this car. I should find out about the supercharger plumbing. Your suggestion on the waste gate should be followed up on too. Thanks again. Always find your posts interesting in any of the forums.

My 28 to 41 Master Parts Book shows 1934 and 1935 front fenders are the same for all body styles in the 40 Series without the sidemounts. Same is true for fenders with the sidemount wells. At least you've got 2 years to pick from. Good Luck.

Approximately 3 years ago my 95 Riv developed what seemed like a noisy bearing sound up front while driving. Dealership diagnosed a bad supercharger bearing after telling me they usually do not go bad and that this was the first one they had had to replace on the Rivieras and Bonnevilles they had sold. They got theirs from a company in California. They could replace just the nose section with the bearing or they could replace the whole unit complete. They reccommended complete (of course): however they're reasoning seemed to make sense. As the bearing went bad in the nose section,more stress was being placed on the other bearings and /or bushings and/or parts in the supercharger body. Another failure could result down the road so now you have a repeat in labor and time and parts. The rebuilt supercharger would have all the stuff replaced and included a better waranty. We planned to keep the Riv for quite a while, so the supercharger was replaced complete. Parts and labor at that time came to about $1500. Noise was gone. Unfortunately 2 years ago my youngest son was driving it at 35 mph and was hit at an intersection on the passenger front fender and spun around by a VW Jetta travelling supposedly at only 25 mph. Much to our sadness the car was considered a total, so I can't comment on the longevity of the rebuilt supercharger. We now have a 97 Riv with 94,000 miles (30,000 are ours)and no supercharger problems so far. There has been what I describe as a "fluttering" sound especially apparent as the trans approaches its shift points. The selling dealer has had the car several times but 1)says it is not the supercharger and 2)they don't know what it is, but "it's not serious". There also has been a whining sound that disappears as soon as I accelerate off idle.They say it's a mild alternator whine and "not unusual". Funny thing, though. When I put a listening rod to the alternator and its bearings, the noise is not there, but it is present in a water hose that runs just behind the alternator. Shrugged shoulders there too. The car has been very dependable and looks good so we'll just keep checking these things out. Hard to find low mileage 95-99 Rivs any more. They really do drive nice so I can understand why the miles do pile up. Sorry I couldn't help more on the supercharger, John. Any thoughts on my Riv's problems??

Double flare always on those brake lines. Glad you're using steel tubing as well. Copper hardens and fractures over time. Buick specifically states in your Shop Manual about these two items. Your comment about getting better at flaring is right on. I found the more I did it with the double flair tool the better and easier it became. Sacrifice a line or two and keep at it. That big tubing on these prewar cars surprises many who are used to seeing the thin stuff on modern cars. Keep those posts coming.

It's a 39 Chevy. Great period picture.

Guys: Let me add my 2 cents on this subject. I am a former owner of a 58 Limited Conv.and some 58 Limited foor doors. Cars were sold for various reasons but I still have all the literature I collected. My Color and Trim book shows no black interiors on Limiteds. The red dash is okay, but would have been used only with a red interior. Surprisingly the tuck and roll shown is an original pattern on the seats and the side panels. The original seats would use leather on the seating areas and vinyl on the seat side panels. The door and quarter panels would be upholstered in a coarser textured vinyl called Cape Buffalo grain. It is not the same texture and pattern you see in the closed cars. A pattern to simulate a tuck and roll was heat stamped in, not sewn in. Hard to duplicate today. I agree that the red exterior color did not show as well on the Limiteds as did it on the Special and Century for 58. The 5 acrylic lacquer metallic colors offered that year would be my personal choices. The green mist convertible on ebay a while ago is a real beauty. I inspected that car when it was pulled out of a Michigan barn a number of years ago and, although it was quite dirty, you could see how solid and straight the car was. My friend very reluctantly sold it for personal reasons to a gentleman who brought it up to its current beautiful condition. Unfortunately he sold it to a clown in Ohio who was just interested in $$$. Apparently he sold it to another clown who is trying to do the same thing. I guess that leaves out those of us who truly appreciate the car for what it is and what it represented in automotive motoring. I enjoyed reading these posts.

A member of our chapter has one also and is quite knowledgeable on these. He'll be glad to help if you'll email him at Lionel_mike@yahoo.com. Hope this helps.

My parents' 1966 Buick Wildcat 4 door sedan. Great car. Really started my love for Buicks.

Wow, you have a rare one there. By the number you gave this is a Series 90, Limited 6 passenger Formal Sedan. It is the standard Limited sedan, but with a division window and no jump seats. Great for those long trips when you could put the kids in the back seat then crank up the division window when they got too noisy The limousine with the jump seats and division window would be Style # 4923. Production on your car was 156 for domestic use and 2 for export. Tell us more about this car.

David: 38 hood is like the 39. 38 is when Buick made the change from the 37 style.

Don: I believe that gentleman from Texas is Dave Corbin, Regional Director of the South Central Region of the BCA. Dave's a good source of info on the 38 Self Shifter and 39 Big series cars.