carbking

Try Kurt Kelsey in Iowa Falls, Iowa. Jon.

Interchange would depend on transmission type of the 54 carb and the 55 vehicle. Jets are no problem. Jon.

The original was a Penberthy (Ball & Ball) model SV-37. Good luck on finding a rebuildable example. Jon.

Have been buying literature from them for 30 years. Never have had a problem with the literature. Prices must be reasonable or I wouldn't keep buying My only complaint would be they probably need some additional help; sometimes slow to respond (but they always do). If you have a problem, get back to them. My guess is that it will be resolved to your satisfaction. Jon.

The "Ball" carb was actually a "Ball & Ball" model, manufactured by the Penberthy Injector Company. Jon.

There are several different that are all very close in size. Best bet is to make your own. They don't have to be neopreme. The earlier gaskets (replaced by the neopreme) were cork. Cork sheets are available in your local auto parts store. Jon.

Twitch - I would feel most comfortable with wet CFM at 1.5 inches mercury on 4 barrels, and wet CFM at 3 inches mercury on 1 and 2 barrels; IF EACH CARBURETOR WERE RATED BY AN INDEPENDANT RATER! Since obviously that is not going to happen, the only single specification I feel comfortable with is the carburetor identification number. I can then find out what I need to know from my library. I realize my case would be different than most, but that is the best answer I can offer. In the case of the original question on this thread, I would guess the flow of a Carter WGD 728s to be approximately 320 CFM, and will leave you to guess which rating system I am using <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Jon.

Finding a "new" two-barrel that was correct for the vehicle would only give you a carburetor with no wear; it would still have to rebuilt as the fuel valve, gaskets, and accelerator pump (unless leather) would not be compatible with modern fuel. This website should tell you which two barrel you should have: Chrysler carburetor applications Adding a four barrel could improve or hurt your fuel economy depending on your driving habits. It should improve low RPM drivability, as the air velocity in the carburetor would be increased, thereby improving the fuel air mixing process. There would be some (probably not as much as you would hope for) increased performance under wide open throttle. Since you ask about adding dual exhausts, this is probably a low compression, medium volumetric efficient engine; and increasing the air would have little effect unless other engine changes (camshaft, ignition, compression, etc.) were also done. Unless you plan to drive lots of miles, the increased economy (if any) would not approximate the cost of the conversion. Jon.

Twitch - while I agree with you in principal, I must disagree in practice with that information which is available to us. Unfortunately, most items of this type are given a rating in a pure number, ie CFM or in your illustration with a fuel pump GPH. What is rarely given (and unfortunately, most don't ask) is the rating system. Take a look at the 4 older rating systems for carburetors. Now if I tell you I have a 500 CFM carburetor for sale, what have I told you? If I tell you that I have a 500 CFM 4 barrel rated with a liquid approximating the properties of gasoline then you know what I have. The same is true for fuel pumps. If a pump is rated at 20 GPH at 10 PSIG, then it probably will flow 50 GPH at 3 PSIG, or maybe not. Also looking at your post concerning engine displacement and horsepower, no mention is made of the volumetric efficiency of the engines. Back to carburetor ratings. I know of one manufacturer that deliberately downrated the CFM on one unit of a popular size, knowing that one of the magazines was going to do a dyno test with this size carburetor. Naturally, the engine produced more horsepower with this brand than with other brands. Good selling point! And with today's ratings, Rick L.'s comments are probably more informative than the CFM rating <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> Unfortunately, the customer does not demand more information! I guess maybe this whole post is a plug for "more truth in advertising" <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Jon.

Carter did not publish CFM ratings for these carburetors; nor did most other carburetor manufacturers. Of the major USA manufacturers, only Zenith published CFM ratings prior to the mid-to-late 1960's. Zenith's ratings were not by carburetor number. You had to know the carburetor type, bore, and venturi size; and then look in a chart. I can probably find a copy of the Zenith chart and attach it if there is interest. I do have permission to make these copies. Figures for many Rochester carburetors can be approximated by using the chart from Doug Roe's book "Rochester Carburetors". Again, one must know the carb type, size, and venturi diameter; the information is not available by carburetor number. This is a copyrighted publication, so I cannot offer to post a copy of this chart, buy the book. During this period of time, most enthusiasts went by "total venturi area" and "total bore area". There are charts comparing these figures in many of the older aftermarket manifold manufacturers' catalogues. Again, copyrighted material, which I do not have permission to copy. This method is probably much more accurate than using CFM anyway, especially given the "CFM" figures released in the last few years! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> Up until the last few years, there were four rating systems in effect by different manufacturers: (1) 1 and 2 barrel carbs (3 inches mercury - wet) (2) 1 and 2 barrel carbs (3 inches mercury - dry) (3) 4 barrel carbs (1 1/2 inches mercury - wet) (4) 4 barrel carbs (1 1/2 inches mercury - dry) If one KNEW which rating system was used, one could determine the value on the other scales. Example: Given 4 carburetors rated 500 CFM (one on each of the systems): Using the 4 barrel scale (wet) as the scale of comparison, then the 4 barrel dry carb would flow approximately 460 CFM; the 2 barrel wet carb would flow approximately 354 CFM, and the 2 barrel dry would flow approximately 326 CFM. I would not attempt to speculate on the carbs rated in the last few years <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Jon.

Selling wooden patterns and core boxes to cast the Super 8 Packard Detroit Lubricator carburetor. These are the patterns produced and used by Doug Heinmuller when he reproduced the carburetors back in the 1970's and 1980's. Many other Detroit Lubricator parts such as pump assemblies, throttle arms, etc. are available. Contact information in bio. Please call to discuss. Jon.

The float level is easy; set the top of the float 1/32 inch below the top of the lower casting when the fuel valve is in the closed position. If an exploded view of the carburetor exists, it would exist in the Master Parts catalog from the original application of the carburetor (unless this is an aftermarket carburetor). If the two halves of the carburetor do not separate easily, then they often separate expensively (with broken parts). If you have removed the bowl screws (either 3 or 6 depending on which BB-1), and the carburetor halves do not separate; my suggestion would be to get help. Jon.

DeSoto Frank - I don't mind being a "wet blanket" in this case, as this discussion may have entered an arena where someone will get seriously injured! Hopefully, someone more versed in metallurgy will jump on this thread; if not, please, anyone who is thinking about this, please read the following: Years ago, we submitted several samples of "pot metal" or zinc alloy from different carburetors to a company having the ability to do some analysis as to content. Pot metal content has dramatically changed over the years. According to the information we received, the early (pre-1932~1940, depending on the company) could have up to 5 times the lead as modern pot-metal. It supposedly is the impurities in the lead that cause much of the problem. Different companies changed the "recipe" at different times. Stromberg seems to have changed about 1932. This means all original U series carbs U, UU, UT, and UX had the defective pot metal, while some of the replacement units in these series would be OK. The early original UR series UR, UUR also had the defective metal, but later original and replacement units would be OK. Stromberg coded their models. In the series above: U meant series U; UT is series U for trucks; UX is series U with a cross-flange; UU is a two-barrel series U; UR meant series U revised. THE EARLY POT METAL CAN EXPLODE WHEN HEATED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JUST LIKE A HAND GRENADE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We found this out when an elderly gentleman who said he could weld anything attempted to weld some of this stuff tried to weld it. I was present (and being watched over by someone) when he hit the metal with a flame, and a chunk of the metal WENT THROUGH THE GARAGE WALL!!! Neither of us were hurt, but we will not try it again. If you are going to play with this stuff, BE CAREFUL! The later pot metal can be welded with a special rod. Jon.

Don't know how often you will need the tap, but virtually any size tap may be special-ordered through J & L Industrial: www.jlindustrial.com We have had them custom-make dozens of taps and dies for us. Many threads on the older vehicles were unusual, to say the least. Jon.

Additionally, AS A GENERAL RULE, a carburetor calibrated for an automatic transmission will be calibrated approximately one half size richer to compensate for the fluid coupling losses. As a result, two good rules of thumb: (1) a carburetor designed for A/T may be used on a S/T vehicle with a slight loss in fuel economy. (2) a carburetor designed for S/T should NOT be used on a A/T vehicle. There are always exceptions to a rule, and it is better to compare the actual calibrations, if one has the data to do so. Generally speaking, violation of rule (2) will result in idle issues (at best). Jon.

You have mail. Jon.

The following is speculation, without a shred of evidence. There were not a lot of Buicks in rural central Missouri. I have spoken to a number of mechanics of my father's generation; and without exception, they told me that the local compound carburetion Buicks were converted back to single carbs during the war due to gasoline rationing. Whether deserved or not, the compound carburetion Buicks had a reputation for being extremely "thirsty". It would be my guess that this issue had something to do with the demise of compound carburetion after the war. Jon.

Try here: http://www.then-now.com/ Jon.

The Zenith 105-DC carburetor basically had 2 applications, Stutz and Ruxton. True, there were more than 2 different carburetors, but they basically differed in jetting only; so the same castings can be used. Contrast this to the Strombergs. The Stromberg UU-2 had 45 different applications. There are at least 3 different casting variations of EACH casting; and then each casting is machined differently for the different applications. The UUR-2 had more than 100 different applications. There are at least 5 different of two of the castings (one of the airhorn castings is shared by the UU-2), and again each casting is machined differently for the different applications. Both the UU-2 and the UUR-2 accept 5 different venturi sizes, which differ from one to the other. While not overly familiar with casting technique, I was told by ALL of the companies which we approached, that the bowl casting at least would require a "pressure" mold; vacuum casting was not an option. If one were going to reproduce A UU-2 or A UUR-2, which ONE would you reproduce??? We receive more calls for the Pierce UU-2 than any single one of the others. As I stated in a previous post, we looked into this project, and believed it to be an economic fiasco! We still do! Jon.

Harry - we acquired all the prints that were still in existance, many dating back to 1909. These are very helpful in our business. We have acquired prints from other carburetor companies as well. The Penberthy Injector Company produced carburetors in the 'teens and 'twenties. They had both a (S)ingle (V)enturi and a (D)ouble (V)enturi design (1 and 2 barrels). These were used by a number of different car companies. As to the reproduction of the UU-2 or UUR-2 complete carburetors, much too costly for the demand. Even reproduction of the EE-3 (with probably 10 times the demand) is cost prohibitive, and we did seriously look at the possibility. Jon.

Harry - check yes, dies no, but I did obtain the original blueprints. Jon.

The UUR-2 Stromberg carburetor was the standard Stromberg 2 barrel updraft carburetor from mid-1929 through 1940. We list 109 applications in our database. The carburetor type decodes as follows: first U - type U construction; second U - 2 barrel; R - revised (the UUR series replaced the UU series); and 2 - S.A.E. size two. Rebuilding kits, as well as virtually all parts except castings are available. Jon.

If still on the carburetor, the identification number is located on a triangular brass tag (approximately a 1 inch triangle) which is located under one of the screws holding the top cover (air horn) to the center section (bowl) of the carburetor. Depending on the age of the carburetor, the number will be either 3 or 4 digits, followed by the letter "S" as in (S)am. The "S" may or may not be followed by a second letter (which depicts engineering change status). If the tag is missing, the carburetor can still be identified, but with difficulty. Jon.

In the FWIW category, we did one of these for a customer with a Buick "period" street rod, pretty much keeping everthing Buick. Instead of the progressive linkage, we used solid linkage with slightly smaller carburetors. Both carbs work all of the time. Driveability much better than the original. Jon.

Speculation: Probably, the tech people want to know if your engine is "stock" or "modified". If modified (compression, camshaft, exhaust, ignition) then what modifications have been made. If the engine is stock, ideally you would want to duplicate the original dual quad carbs as closely as possible. This means same primary and secondary CFM, idle jets, idle air bleeds, idle restrictors, metering rod profile (VERY IMPORTANT!), jets, and auxiliary air valve (ALSO VERY IMPORTANT!). By duplicating the factory specs, you know that the engineering has been done, and the setup will function as desired. Probably it would be wise to get back to their tech and ask what questions the tech wants answered. Jon.