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Thanks John, although I think it's going to take a lot longer than I thought. Everything seems to be working out in the end, but each step is painfully slow. Many things I don't know and have to research or ask, then many small problems that come up, then a small job becomes hours of work. Had a small amount of damage to the axle threads when I tried to install my hub bearing assembly today. Should have been 5-minutes, but took 2.5 hours before I was able to get the nut properly threaded. None the less, still making some progress, no matter how small. almost every day.

Found a day to work on the MGA in between holidays. Was able to install the rear axle carrier as well as a backing plate and some brake parts today. Now it's starting to like like it may be a car one day. First, I cleaned out the breather tube on the axle (Photo 1). It was clogged up with years of sludge, which probably helped create some of the leaky seals. That and 45 years of storage in a barn. Was able to get the chunks out, then detail it out with Gunk spray, then a test with compressed air. Next was to replace the temporary nuts and bolts I had in place for when I sprayed the leaf springs with the correct ones. Had a few mis-steps as I tried at first to do the assembly from memory. That didn't work too well, so went and consulted my photos and shop manual, so was able to get it together after a couple hours (Photo 2-3). I continued on and added the backing plate for the brakes (Photo 4), then the wheel cylinder (Photo 5). I also placed the hub assembly on there "finger tight" until I figure out how to get it on properly. Hoping I don't have to take the whole axle out again and have them pressed in at a shop. Didn't think that one through, but we'll see. Will probably research and monkey with it more tomorrow. Lastly, I was able to throw on the brake shoe pivot at the other end of the backing plate (Photo 6). Also finished up the brass wheel cylinder brake line fitting, but didn't install it yet. Needs new bleeder valves. The old ones are clogged with dirt and cannot be cleaned. Easier and safer to replace. I was unable to clean up the other backing plate last month with my clogmaster 2000 sandblaster, so the driver's side has to wait for a while. There's 1/2" of snow on the ground, so no blasting until at least next weekend. For now, I'll keep trying to build the passenger side, which will make the driver's side a snap after I learn the easy ways to assemble everything. Got my water pump back from the rebuilder for both my '30 Plymouth and the MGA, but they are both in bare metal, and it's too cold to paint them. Still continuing to work on ancillary engine parts on the side. Also got a nice $150 Moss gift certificate for Xmas, so small parts won't be a problem for a while. Happy New Year! -Chris

These are large parts. In what location are you? That info would help someone if they find the parts and they are somewhat close to you. Shipping these parts a long distance may be cost prohibitive.

Glad to see you are back posting (sort of) on the FOR. Been missing your posts and progress and such an interesting vehicle.

The weather yesterday and today was in the mid-50's to mid -60's, so I was able to leave work a little early and get to work painting the rear axle and carrier (Photos 1-4). I used Eastwood chassis black extreme and seem to have fairly good results. Very pleased that I could get some more painting done in December. This will allow me a lot of time to put all this stuff back together when it goes back to normal winter temps soon. Won't be able to work on it for the next 2 weeks or so with the holidays and travel coming up, but hope to start putting the axle together after the new year and get it back where it belongs. Most of the other rear axle and brake parts are ready to be installed, so it should come together fairly quickly. Merry Christmas!

Thanks, this is very helpful!

What is the correct tail light for a 1940 Plymouth (Sedan, if that matters). I have seen them with Mayflower ships on them, raised bumps, like a marble at the bottom, and just "plain." What's correct for '40? Thanks!!! -Chris

Ugh, no real updates on the MGA. Cold weather, travel, and work duties are greatly slowing my progress. I was able to finish the valve cover last weekend. Turned out quite well overall (photo 1). I have the rear axle housing and carrier ready for primer, but can't paint because it's too cold. Monday is supposed to be almost 60, so hoping for the best so I can at least get primer on them.

Hello, one would think, but multiple sources say that these were painted engine color. I'll site "Original MGA" by Anders Clausager as one book that explains this. According to the book, only replacement factory generators are black and there were a few starters that were factory installed in black, but most were engine color (reddish maroon) throughout production. Thanks to Artie's Electric in Manassas Park, VA for the restoration of the generator and starter.

I may have a friend who's not on the site that may be interested. Give me a day or two...I'll get back to you. I may be interested myself...

Hello, the junkyard may have the lower pieces, but I'll need another visit to see exactly what he has. I'll have to get back to you next time I go, which may be 2-3 weeks.

Thanks again for all the input. I have a much better understanding of what's going on now. I think I will try drying out the existing desiccant bags, as I cannot find reasonably-sized new replacements. However, I'll have to wait for quite a while, as we have snow coming in, which means salt on the roads, which means the car will have to sit for a while until the roads are clean enough to drive the car to my mechanic. My mechanic is not an A/C guy. There are no A/C shops anywhere near the DC area, so I have to do the best I can with my own weak knowledge and the advice of folks like yourselves. I'll provide an update once I'm able to get everything back together. Thanks again for all the knowledge. My A/C worked great with the R134A, but my compressor always leaked oil, hence the reason the A/C system is apart. I'm hoping my switch to a modern double-lipped seal will repair the oil leak issue once and for all. Thank you!

I have a lead for you. Please see my PM.

Hello, I'm headed to a junkyard tomorrow and may find some of these pieces, so I'll keep you posted if I find anything. Your photo did not get attached...

Hello. Try SMS Fabrics. They are in California. https://www.smsautofabrics.com/ They should have it, but it could be quite expensive. -Chris

Another update. Worked like a dog over the last 2 days to get to a certain stopping point, as I won't have time to work on it for the next week. Finished up all the mounting hardware on the rear axle (photo 1). Was able to blast, prime, and paint one backing plate (photos 2 and 7). My sandblaster is still hopelessly worthless. I can only get about 15 minutes of work before it clogs with moisture, so didn't get to the other backing plate yet. No way to get it to work right unless I buy a fixed compressor and a better blaster. Good enough for now. My main goal was to get the axle cleaned up and a layer of rust encapsulator on it. Here's most of the way thru (photo 3), then mostly cleaned up (photo 5), then ready for rust encapsulator (photo 8). While I waited in between jobs, I created a brass ferrule cut out of a wire crimp and made it as close to the original as possible for the cable that attaches the oil filler cap (Photo 4). I had to use a bike brake cable, as that's the closest attachment wire I could find to original style. With a little work, I was able to get it to fit through the hole in the back of the cap, which is slightly larger than the hole in the top of the cap, so this side is complete (Photo 6). Still need to make one for the other side of the cable and attach it to the refurbished valve cover. Next weekend, should be able to prime and paint the rear axle assembly and get it installed, or at least that's the goal. I also got back the axle carrier from shop. I got a new seal installed and it turns out the ring and pinion are in spec with backlash, but not by much. I should be okay with the careful and occasional driving I'll be doing when it's finished. Cleaning and painting the exterior of that will be next, then I start with the axles, hubs, and brakes on the rear.

Thank you Larry, this is more helpful to my specific questions. I think I have a little better understanding now. I think I will just buy some new desiccant bags and start fresh. I'll clean all the oil remnants out of the receiver/dryer, then I will then button it up and take it to my mechanic who has the proper equipment. I've taken it to him before for evacuating and charging, as this is about the 4th time I've been through this process, so I'm sure that will go well. One of the hoses had a plug that I put in fall out, so the system has been open, possibly for a while, but without the compressor on the car, so I'm in the crap shoot phase. I've plugged everything else up now that the receiver/dryer is out of the car. Poor due diligence on my part, but I guess that's how you learn. Thanks again to everyone that posted, I do appreciate everyone's responses. -Chris

Thank you again for the replies, but don't have the tools, knowledge, or equipment to pull a vacuum on the system, and that is not something I'm concerned with yet. I really appreciate the responses, but none of the responses actually address the specific questions I have, which are: 1) Does the receptacle where the desiccant bags are located hold enough oil/liquid refrigerant to cover the desiccant bags when in normal use, or is it just a small amount at the bottom? I understand oil is in there, but I don't understand how much. My desiccant bags are soaked in oil and are green in color, not blue, from dye, so I can't use color as a determinant of dryness. I don't care if they are dyed green or not. 2) It appears that replacing the desiccant bags (or heating them up) is a viable option, but how are the desiccant bags protected from moisture to begin with? Let's say I order new desiccant bags, or, dry out the old bags. When I take them out of the bag (if new) or out of the microwave, is the amount of time it takes to put them in the canister, and hook the receiver/dryer back up a small enough time that I don't have to worry about it absorbing much moisture? What about when the system is all sealed up again, there was outside air in the system, so is this just a tolerable amount? How long can I wait before I get the system charged? Like you mention, I need to draw a vacuum, but I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do that, I'd take it to a shop to pull vacuum and have the system re-charged. Vacuum is not an issue at the moment. 3) Do I need to put oil in the receiver/dryer canister with the desiccant bags? One youtube video mentions that, but I don't know what the truth is, or how much, if any, to put in. How much oil is put into desiccant bag receptacle? What type of oil? Can anyone address these specific questions? Thanks again.

Thanks for the tips, but I guess I don't really understand how the system works to being with, plus my desiccant bags are an oily mess, so I'm not sure if re-heating them would even work. I wouldn't be able to tell if they are fully dry or not, either. The things I don't understand, and can't find a good explanation of how they actually work, are: 1) Does the receptacle where the desiccant bags are located hold enough oil/liquid refrigerant to cover the desiccant bags when in normal use, or is it just a small amount at the bottom? My desiccant bags are soaked in oil and are green in color, not blue, from dye, so I can't use color as a determinant of dryness. 2) It appears that replacing the desiccant bags (or heating them up) is a viable option, but how are the desiccant bags protected from moisture to begin with? Let's say I order new desiccant bags. I assume they would come in a vacuum-sealed bag. When I take them out of the bag, is the amount of time it takes to put them in the canister, and hook the receiver/dryer back up a small enough time that I don't have to worry about it absorbing much moisture? What about when the system is all sealed up again, there was outside air in the system, so is this just a tolerable amount? How long can I wait before I get the system charged? Like you mention, I need to draw a vacuum, but I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do that, I'd take it to a shop to pull vacuum and have the system re-charged. 3) Do I need to put oil in the receiver/dryer canister with the desiccant bags? One youtube video mentions that, but I don't know what the truth is, or how much, if any, to put in. As you can tell, I'm learning about A/C, but overall very clueless and I don't really understand it. Thanks again. -Chris

Jeff, it looks like "Auburn" may have this for you, but if that doesn't work out, keep us posted. I don't have one, but I know a junkyard that may have one, which I'll be visiting within the next 2 weeks. -Chris

Hello, I have a 1974 Camaro with the original-style A/C system. It was trashed when I bought the car years ago and I had it converted to R134A when I did the restoration about 7 years ago. As many of the original components were used as possible. Since then, the A/C system worked great, but always had oil leaking from the front of the compressor and spraying all over the engine bay. I just replaced the front seal on the compressor myself with a modern double-lipped seal, so I'm hoping for the best with no more leaks. During this seal replacement, the system was exposed to outside air for while, so I need to do something about the receiver/dryer. I'm no A/C guy by any stretch, so I'm not sure what to do to either put new desiccant in it or just replace the whole thing. Photo 1 is the whole VIR / Receiver/Dryer System that I took off the car. The green mess is dye put in to track the original leaks. I want to keep the original components intact, so I wanted to ask the following questions to the group: 1) Can I just replace the desiccant bags (photo 2)? I had Classic Auto Air restore this system originally, so at one point, they replaced the desiccant bags, so I know it can be done. If so, does anyone know where I can get them and how I install them without ruining them by exposing them to the air? If I can do this, is there anything else that should be fixed/replaced, other than maybe the O-rings? 2) I've had a few friends and forums I've read on other sites tell me to just replace the receiver/dryer, but all the ones I see are modern replacements and do not look anything close to mine, so that doesn't seem like a good solution, but maybe I'm missing something? I haven't been able to find this component online anywhere (Part #1131047). Any help or advice is greatly appreciated, as this has been a very frustrating and expensive experience of just trying to get my A/C to work properly. Thanks!!! -Chris

Hello, I need to find the driver's side rear corner trim piece for a 1969 Pontiac Executive wagon with a vinyl top. This piece only came with the vinyl top. Any leads are appreciated. -Chris

Please see my PM.

Thanks, gentlemen. Marty, like you, I think attention to detail is the most important part of a restoration. Your car, for example, appears to have every detail correct and I think that makes a huge difference in appearance and keeping the historical aspect of the car and era in focus. The extra time spent in doing it right is well worth it.

Sounds like a great car. Hope you post some photos. As far as your original question, you should ask again in the REO-specific forum.