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Everything posted by hursst

  1. I think we all had some good hauls at Hershey this year. Perfect weather, good turnout.
  2. Today was even more productive than yesterday. Got the Clogmaster 2000 out again this morning. Lower humidity today. I also loaded the blaster up with more media than usual and I changed the ceramic tip on the blaster nozzle, as the current one had worn thin and the side chipped off. This made a big difference, the blaster worked much better, faster, and much less clogging today, so I was able to complete blasting all 6 fender brackets (Photo 1). It was such a nice day and I made such good progress, I went right on to priming the parts as well. My sprayer is really dialed in now, and I'm getting better results than when I started. Here are all the brackets (Photo 2). I have all the hardware refinished and primed as well, so these are ready to be installed on the body (when the body is stripped and primed) to be painted all at once.
  3. Another boring week slaving at work and finally another weekend. Got my new top from Moss Motors yesterday (Photo 1). Overall, it looks pretty good, fairly authentic. Even comes with a card signed by the person that hand-made it at Moss In Petersburg, VA. Nice touch. I'll have to farm this out to get fitted and have all the fasteners professionally installed. One mistake and you ruin the top with all the fasteners, clips, and snap placements. Took advantage of the cooler mornings and broke out the Clogmaster 2000. The goal was to blast the 6 inner fender pieces and get them ready for primer. The morning turned out to be fairly humid and the Clogmaster did what it does best, clog up, but I am now able to unclog it and get it going again for a while fairly efficiently. Got about 2/3 of the way finished, then it started to rain, so that ended that. When I emptied my compressor, it looked like it had about 2 gallons of water come out with the evacuated air. Too humid. In the meantime, I welded in the top portion of the outer rocker on the driver's side. Went okay. Once I got it in and sized properly, I found the lower portion to be quite far off, even after I bent the curve in tighter. I decided to fit the door and try to get it spaced enough to get some type of door gap (Photo 2). I got it pretty close, then drilled some fresh holes in the vertical door pillar to re-install the factory aluminum rivets on each side of the outer rocker. The factory holes would not match up properly with the new outer rocker. That gave me a decent setting at the top, which should hold well, but the bottom is still quite far off. I will probably try to buy a large clamp and see if I can continue to bend the radius of the outer rocker tighter so the bottom will line up with the inner rocker support panel. Will be happy when these rockers are finished, probably the biggest pain in the neck on the car. Also continued on some more smalls. I'm now refinishing all the mounting hardware for the 4 fenders. I think each fender has about 80 individual hardware components between nuts, bolts, washers, and shims. I looked at my two parts storage areas and they are looking a little sparse, so making great progress on all the small parts. Once I get the body painted, it should fly together. I'm now thinking I may be able to get close to finishing the car in maybe another year to year and a half. Lastly, no word on the engine. I will call them after Hershey to get a progress report.
  4. Regardless of venue, has there ever been a night-drive on one of these tours? I would think it would be different and interesting, especially for pre-electric light vehicles, to run these cars at night, at least for one night of a tour. Seeing gas lamps, kerosene, or pre-sealed beam headlights, wig-wam tail lights, use of spotlights, opera lights, various early colored lights would be something very unique to see. We never see them during the daylight or in most shows, the lighting is always off.
  5. Here's most of a Ruggles truck in Rockville, VA. Looks like it could be restored with a lot of work.
  6. Try emailing Marge Verdones. I bought a repro set from her in 2012 in stainless steel for my 30U. I do not know if the '29 is the same, but probably is. I do not know Marge's status or if she's still making them or not, but worth an email. -Chris
  7. More parts here:
  8. This guy has bumpers:
  9. This post has a lot of 30U parts for sale: You may have to sign up, but it's worth it. 4-cyl specific blog, with emphasis on 1928-1930.
  10. Took a 3-day weekend. Went down to Moss Motors in Petersburg, VA to buy some parts for the MGA. One of the things I picked up was the seat kit and foam, at 15% off with the special they had. They also had in in stock. They even gave me a tour of the upholstery shop! All their upholstery is made in-house by hand, pretty impressive. I got the black leather with white piping, as original. I read some info on installation on the MGA guru site and chatted on their forum and got some great photos and input. I decided to just tackle it myself, seemed doable by an amateur. This was the only project I did this weekend, I went to the local AACA regional show with my '30 Plymouth on Saturday, then had to replace my steering rack on my lawn tractor (with only 103 hours on it). Some poor engineering there. It turned out to be quite easy, since it's a very simple seat and the upholstery was pre-fab. I used staples to secure the fabric, as that's how most of them were done. The experts say some had staples, some had tacks, some had a combination. Mine appears to be about 80% staples with some tacks thrown in. Decided to just go with staples to make it a little easier. First photo is how I found it (seat folded down) in 2016 (Photo 1), second photo is with the lower frames and seat foam (Photo 2). Here's the finished result (Photo 3). Overall, quite good, no major screw-ups on my part. The arm rest is how it came from Moss, it will need to be sewn onto the middle carpet section, so that's probably a good project for when it gets cold outside. I may be able to salvage the original center carpet section, although the original arm rest is petrified.
  11. Today's a bonus posting, borne out of frustration. The poorly-engineered repro rocker panel really bothered me. Both pieces I bought do not have the correct arc on them, so the top part facing out will be too high once it's welded in, making it impossible to close the door. The one I installed on the passenger side I think I eventually got to work, mainly with a pry rod and door adjustments. It will probably need more work. For the driver's side one, I wanted it to fit when I welded it in, so I decided not to take it to a shop and just figure it out on my own. My solution is crazy, but seems to have worked, at least with the arc problem. Here's the problem, the arc is not enough, so when you line up the rocker at the top door lip, the bottom section hangs past the lip of the inner rocker by almost an inch (Photo 1). Not having any better ideas, and since this is a junk repro part, I decided to find a tree in the woods, wrap the rocker around it, wrap some tree-protector tow straps around it, and pull it tight with my Jeep and winch until at the correct arc (Photo 2). The bad news is that the tree was not perfectly circular, so I ended up putting a little of crease in the rocker. The good news is, I set the radius perfectly and now the panel will fit perfectly when spot welded in (Photo 3). Once it's welded in, I'll have to massage it with some body hammers to see if I can lessen the crease a little, then maybe put some filler in to hide any imperfections, if needed. I said this before, but it costs the same to make a (simple) part correctly than it does to do it wrong, why don't they just make it correct? I'm also assuming that the reproducer, at some point, had to have test-fit the part that they made. I guess they saw their shoddy work, shrugged their shoulders, and sent them off to Moss Motors to be sold to me. For shame.
  12. Thanks Steve. I've really been interested in your posts, the '69 SS-427 is one of my favorite cars.
  13. Some good progress this weekend, but nothing interesting. Went back to work on the rocker panel and filled in many pinholes and just plain holes in some of the spot welds and in some rusted areas. Found one spot weld I missed completely, so did that. Got the whole mess back in primer (Photo 1). Waiting to buy some more Eastwood Chassis Black in a couple weeks, so it will stay like this for a while longer. Also did an assessment of the outer rocker and it needs to be re-curved, so I will try taking it to a shop this week to see if someone can tighten the arc by about 1" so it will fit properly. I also got out the front valance panel and continued to grind it and fill in some pin holes. I got it pretty good, then started adding some body filler to see where I stand (Photo 2). Unfortunately, I didn't do a good enough job welding a few months ago, or I missed something, but a 2" crack opened up, so I will have to grind out about half the body filler and re-weld. The metal is so thin that it is tough to get a good weld in this area, but it's not thin enough that it needs to be cut out and replaced. I'll keep working it.
  14. I would love to see you start posting your work in the "Our Cars and Restorations" area. Looks like a challenging but very interesting project. Not sure if you have time to post there or not, just a suggestion. Good luck with the car!
  15. I got my fenders back today, so left work early to pick them up and get some primer on them before they flash rust. Couldn't have asked for a better day to do it, cloudy, 72 degrees, about 60% humidity. I started by wire-wheeling the pitted areas, as the blasters never seem to get everything out of the pits. I at least made it cleaner than it was before. I then hit each panel pre-prep and did one at a time. The rear fenders I hung from my engine hoist (Photo 1). The front fenders were too heavy and big for the junk I had with which to hang them. No problem, used a stand instead. The main goal is to get a base of good primer on to prevent any flash rust and keep them in good shape until I can do the rest of the body work on them. As you can see on (Photo 2), the front fenders are both roached at the rear lowers, while just the front lowers on the the rear fenders are shot. Painting outside is my only option for now, but no big deal with just the rough primer. Will have some dust, bugs, and lint to sand out, however. One of the rear fenders I already patched (mentioned in the blog a couple months ago) and it will just need a little cleanup before it's ready for some light filler and final sanding/primer. The other fenders will need extensive work with patches and a few other small pinholes in some other areas. One of the rear fenders had a pretty major smash in it. It looks like someone welded a very large tear on the back of the rear fender and they did an excellent job with the weld, but there is a noticeable bead still renaming and quite a few depressions and small wrinkles that will need some grinding and some filler to make right. Overall, they did a pretty good repair. I'll be putting these on the back burner while I complete the rocker panel work on the body. I got an email from the British shop and they are now powder coating my engine block and associated block parts, then they will add all the ancillary parts that I provided. No timeline for completion as of yet, but any communication from them is a good sign. Due to budget constraints, I won't even think about having the body blasted until spring 2020. I'll use the fall and winter to hopefully get the engine in, put all the floorboards and completed related parts on the chassis, thoroughly clean the chassis, re-upholster the seats, finish stripping the paint from the steel frames of the doors, hood, and trunk, and continue on the smalls I have lying around, which will include farming out the gauges and continuing to get things chromed. The chromer is now backed up for about 6 months! Seems like I'm making some big progress now, but I still have so much work to do, I still have a few more years left.
  16. These guys have two great projects, an MGA and a Morgan.
  17. Thanks. Looking forward to more updates from your Merc.
  18. Here's a before pic of the master cylinder assembly. Note the caulking or who knows what that they added to seal areas where proper rubber seals should be.
  19. Made some decent progress today. I broke out my 4 fenders and I'm getting them ready to send out to the pro blaster (Photo 1). Too much to do with the Clogmaster 2000. I'll get those to the shop sometime this week. Next, I continued to work on the driver's inner rocker. Got some primer and weld-thru primer on the rest of it (Photo 2). Discovered a few weld-thru's and some cleanup to do, so there will be a little more welding. I test fitted the outer rocker, and it's just as crappy of a fit as the other side. I'll have to cut a small portion out from the tops of either side in order to get it to seat horizontally against the vertical rocker support panel. The arc on the lower part of the panel is too shallow, just like that on the other side. I tried a little bending on the other side, but didn't get it good enough. It will probably work out once I get the panel riveted in (2 rivets on the top on each side from the factory), plus I was able to adjust the door hinges reasonably well. For the driver's side, I'm going to have to try something else and get a deeper arc. I'd like it to fit without me literally wrestling with it to make it work. Finished my latest side project, the master cylinder assembly (Photo 3). Turned out really well, was able to reuse all the parts, except the rubber parts.
  20. What a beautiful resto. Congratulations, you must be very proud, satisfied, and maybe relieved that it's pretty much finished. Just read above you're trying for Hershey, can't wait to see it in person. You'll probably have a line of us waiting to meet you. And if you need to lose 20 lbs., Hershey is the best way to do it, just walk the whole thing and you'll be down 20 lbs in no time. Just lay off those pizzas at the bottom of the bridge stairs.
  21. Today I finished the rest of the spot welding where the vertical door pillars meet the inner rocker. Turned out nicely, although the metal is weak, so may add some more small patches for support. Ground down all the other spot welds to get them looking half way normal. I'll see about maybe adding some more metal to some of my crappier welds that got a little melty towards the bottom of the weld. Also put rust inhibitor on the first section of the inner rocker (Photo 3). On the side, I broke out the Clogmaster 2000 and got in some blasting time. Lots of clogging, but I'm pretty good at clearing the clogs and getting back to it quickly. Just slow as I'm either running low on air, or the metal is so pitted that it just takes a while to do it right. Here's the brake master cylinder support bracket with two inner fender splash panels right before I started (Photo 1). Here's a few of the smalls I was working on the side (Photo 2). I should have the entire master cylinder and assembly finished tomorrow. I'll do a before and after. It started out looking like someone nuked it. A previous owner decided instead of replacing the rubber seals in and around the master cylinder that he would just use some type of crappy black caulking. What a mess. At least it was fairly easy to remove.
  22. Worked some smalls during this week and finished the brake and clutch pedal assembly. Here's a before (October 2016) and after (Photos 1 & 2). This weekend, I'm going to focus on finishing the rest of the spot welds at the base of the door vertical supports, then grinding down the spot welds and finalizing the driver's rocker panel area with primer and black paint. No feedback from the British Car shop, unfortunately. They were supposed to do inventory of all the parts I dropped off, update their engine parts inventory for my engine and update the invoices. I'm giving them until Sep 30th and if I don't hear back, I'll have to call them again and see if they've made any progress and maybe have another talk.