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See PM...

Really interesting project, plus should be fairly simple. It's sometimes nice to do a restoration that doesn't take 10 years, where you can start seeing results almost immediately. It's also great to see another Crosley back on the road...or...farm. Can;'t wait to see the progress as it goes along.

Was able to work on and off the last week, mostly off. Spent a lot of time today working. Was able to take out the seats, the rear floorboards, and the shelf board. As usual, it was not that easy due to heavy corrosion of the fasteners and some of the bolts/fasteners spinning in place from the other side. I had to drill out about half of the large screws used to hold in the floorboards. The driver's side had a large piece of sheet aluminum screwed into the bottom of the frame, as the wood floorboard was rotten. The driver's side floorboard turned to splinters upon removal, whereas the passenger side was intact, but a little dry rotted. I'll be able to use it as a template. The rear shelf board is in excellent condition and can be reused. Not sure if I'll just buy the new wood kit, or make my own. Probably make my own to save some $$$. Found a 1959 penny under the carpet, but otherwise nothing else interesting. Photo 1) after the sheet aluminum was removed, but before the seat was removed. Love the wooden floorboards, so easy to replace compared to welding in steel. Photo 2) Here's a pile of residue I swept up from under the car so far. The car was starting to compost itself over time, like all cars do. Photo 3) Here's after removing the floorboards and part of the driveshaft tunnel. Photo 4) a further back view of the passenger compartment. I think next is removing the fuel tank straps, then the drive shaft, then maybe start getting the engine ready for removal. Still really happy with the overall condition, the rate of which it's coming apart, and the simplicity of disassembly so far. I'm sure I'll run into some more difficult issues, but looking forward to reaching the total disassembly point where you start putting the car back together again.

This round, focused on the rear of the car. Took the gas tank out, was actually quite easy. The tank seems to be in okay condition for now, but the inside is a different story (photo 1). Some nice chunks of 45-year old gas in there. Took out some more misc parts from the trunk, like the spare tire cover and the trunk latch mechanism, among other small parts. Found a rust hole in the rear driver's side trunk corner (photo 4). Also found a rust hole at the front of the trunk, caused by its proximity to the batteries (photo 5). Next, started to work on the passenger compartment. Looked in the battery compartment and found some OLD batteries. These were Autolites dating from Fall, 1966 (photo 2). Car has probably been sitting since 1971 or so, I guess it was a true barn find by the previous "broker" who sold it to me. Next job will be taking out the large aluminum patch screwed to the bottom of the floor, so I can get the seats and floor boards out.

Well, those hippy flowers ended up hiding a well-repaired tear in the top, so I'll have to replace the top. Maybe I can sell the old one to someone with a driver MGA. Took off the other rear fender yesterday, but not without some trouble. On the rear door pillar, there are 3 screws that screw into the pillar itself, the rear fender lip, and then a captive nut. Of course the last screw ended up spinning the captive nut in place, so had to cut off the screw to get the fender off. There's no access to the captive nut, it's fully enclosed, so will either have to cut a hole in the pillar or just live with it. I'll worry about it later. Bought some angle iron to shore up the door frames when I take the body off (photo 1). With some modification, I should be able to screw them right into the front door hinge holes and holes where the door latch is. Don't have a welder yet and this method should leave no damage to have to clean up. I think the next step is to remove the gas tank, then probably the engine. I expect this to get a little more difficult now that there will be more confined spaces and tighter fits of things.

That looks like a winner. Thanks!

If I had to guess, could be HVAC controls

Hope someone saves it.

It is a DKW, about 1955 or so. Click here and scroll down and you'll see it: http://myautoworld.com/audi/cars/history/company/dkw/dkw-cars-50/dkw-cars-50.html

Can anyone ID this radio? It's missing the back plate and there are no other markings on it. Thanks.

Worked towards getting a rear fender off today, but didn't quite make it. Started by taking off the rear bumper. The captive nuts in the bumper spin in place, just like the front bumper's did. Luckily, the rear bumper was tweaked just enough for me to get a wrench up in there, and I was able to remove both nuts that attach the bumper to the frame, so took the bumper off as one assembly instead of taking it apart further. Next, I had to take the rear wheels off for better access, then had to take the tail lights out. This was a huge hassle, as there are a multitude of bullet connectors all at one point for the rear wiring harness. Once I got those out and labelled them (photo 3), there is no easy way to get the tail lights off and the wiring out, as they appear to be one big connected system, no connectors. The driver's side had a home-made taillight and the wiring was cut and spliced, so I just cut them at the splices and was able to feed everything through the small hole at the rear of the passenger's tail light. Next, I had to take off the 3 small nuts and bolts at the bottom front of the rear fender. These are very rusty and were very hard to get off. These fasteners have small captive nuts and they always spin in place, so it was quite difficult. Next, had to take out the 2 inner fender panels at front and rear. These were easy. Last, had to take out all the fender bolts. Well, the very last bolt closest to the passenger compartment comes off from the inside of the car. The bolt is covered from the inside by a interior panel, of which the convertible top is bolted into. So, have to take the top off to get to the panel to get to the hidden bolt in order to get the fender off. One screw on each side that secures the top to the car is stripped, so will probably have to drill them out, which will be a big hassle as well. Had a strange surprise on the top, check out those hippie flowers stuck on the top (photo 1). I'm guessing they are not original! The top is in fairly good shape, I may actually be able to save it by cleaning it and having new plastic windows sewn in. In addition, took the exhaust out. It took about 3 tenths of a second to remove...as it just fell out completely (photo 4). I'll use it as a template for the new exhaust.

Messed around for about 45 minutes today. Next step is to take off the rear fenders. To do that properly, looks like I have to take off the rear bumper, and to do that easily, I may have to drop the gas tank. Note the home-made taillight on the driver's side (photo 2). So, took the trunk lid off and started with the fuel filler tube. Of course it has an aftermarket locking gas gap...with no key. Luckily, the tube can be disconnected in the trunk and it pulls right out (Photo 3). Guess I'll have to go to a locksmith to get the cap removed, but at least I can take the small tube and cap with me. Gathered up the tools that were in the trunk. I have the starter crank, jack with handle, tire pump, and spare tire clamp (photo 1). I don't know what other tools I'm missing yet, but happy to have this stuff. Missing quite a few small parts with this car so far, but nothing major.

Each part gets a number and/or a "P" or "D" for passenger or driver, if there are two of the same part on each side. I put blue tape on the part, give it a number, then record the number in a log book with a description, how many fasteners go with it and what type, and any notes. Any fasteners are either placed back on the part loose if they will thread back in or have a bolt on the other side, or they go in a ziplock bag, with the same number in it. If there are a lot of fasteners, I'll number the fasteners in the order they were removed, as to ensure their correct position. I then dump all the parts, in rough order, in a storage shed, to get them out of the way. Assembly of the car is just going through all the numbers in reverse (for the most part, as some missing pieces or large systems may need this or that before you can go on to the next step). All wire connections get a letter on each loose wire that corresponds to where it connects on the other end. "A" goes to "A," etc. Throw in lots of "before" photos and it's hard to mess it up. It's really just like a plastic model kit, except you have about 4000 parts instead of 30, and it takes about 3-5 years instead of 3-5 days. Some of the parts in the photos were not "processed" yet, but they will go thru the process immediately, I just took the photo as soon as I got some of the parts off. Thanks for the replies, it's encouraging and motivating to see so many of the other cool project cars here, and to learn a lot of good information for my own restoration from the comments.

Dale, I have a very good system of numbering each item, bagging and/or securing all fasteners to the larger item, taking photos, and writing notes. I did this with my '74 Camaro and had no problems. This car is MUCH easier than a '74 Camaro.

Been really motivated this week. Was able to remove both front fenders with not too much trouble. Had to take the doors off first. That took about 30 seconds per door. Fender took a lot longer. Plenty of rust, but mostly surface rust. Have some holes in the driver's side lower fender and both rockers. The bottoms of the fenders and rockers is fairly rusty and will need some repair, but overall, this car is much more solid than it originally appeared. Got my British Heritage Certificate in the mail yesterday. Which I would have ordered it POST Brexit for the discount. Was a little disappointed, I didn't learn too much about it. Confirmed that it was originally white with black seats, grey soft top, it was built on Sep 21, 1959, and it had wire wheels, heater, white-wall tires, and a gray tonneau cover as options. It also has an adjustable steering column, but it is not on the heritage list of options. Maybe they forgot it or maybe someone added it along the way. They did not list the original dealer/destination, only listed "USA," plus they didn't (or forgot) to add the engine and body numbers, which I supplied, to the certificate. I expected a little more for my Pounds. The tonneau over is original and has some of the stitching undone, so I should be able to clean it and re-stitch it, which will be a nice original feature. The top is original as well, but has some rips in it. Probably can't save it. Photo 1: Another mouse family in the front inside fender. They had moved out. Photo 2: Found this cool Esso sticker. I'd like to save it, but I think it's too fragile to peel off in one piece. Photo 3) Pass. fender off. Photo 4) Dr. fender off and wheels back on. Found some severe rot on the driver's side front wheel from sitting. Will have to replace the wheel. Too bad, as the rest of the wheel is in good condition. Still have a long way to go with disassembly, but making good progress. I think next I'll take over the trunk lid and rear fenders. Happy 4th of July weekend!

unimogjohn, I don't understand the second phrase of your question, but as far as my plans, first, complete disassembly, then full restoration to stock condition, using as many original parts fro the car as possible. I'm also going to try to do as much as possible myself to lower costs and learn more auto restoration skills. If I'm going to go thru the effort, I'll probably show it for a while, then drive it (carefully), as that's why they exist in the first place.

I bought the car out of Greensboro, but it spent most of its life near Durham. Yes, I already have the Moss Motors catalog.

Found a little time this weekend and did some work. Was able to take out the headlights and parking lights by disconnecting the bullet connectors. Also was able to take out the windshield frame (there's no glass in it) and take off the hood. It's amazing how much easier this car is (so far) than my '74 Camaro. Hope to get some time this weekend to take the front fenders off and make some real progress. At this point, I need to get an owner's manual and a shop manual of some type. That will really help when I try to actually restore these parts instead of just doing the disassembly. Also, should be getting my British Heritage Trust certificate any day now.

Now able to spend about an hour every other day on the disassembly. Was able to remove the inner grille without too much trouble, and the inner air vents and brackets. I'd like to get the front fenders off next, but that will involve removing the windshield frame (the windshield is missing). So, next step was to remove the interior kick panels. Had some trouble with a couple screwed due to rust, so had to cut a new screw line into the screw head to unscrew them. At least I didn't have to drill. Now I have access to the bolts that attach the windshield frame, so that will be the next step. The trash can is mostly full of debris that mice packed away behind the front air vents inside the grille area (photo 1). I still need to get the headlight buckets out, but now know there are some bullet connectors further up on the wiring harness. The harness will be replaced, but want to keep the old one intact as a reference (photo 2). Interior kick panel (photo 3). Should be simple enough to replace the material, or possibly clean the whole thing and reuse, I'll have to inspect it further. Trying to reuse as many original components as possible, with safety in mind as well. Floor is not too bad, overall (photo 4). Can probably reuse original heel pad and have it sewn into new carpet (seems like a good idea now, but we'll see how pricey that would be). Most floor boards are intact, but one is broken and someone put an aluminum patch panel in. Should be easy to replace.

If you're looking for an owner's manual, you can request a copy (it will be photo copies) from the AACA library, that's where I got my copy. You would need edition #3, according to your serial number, but good luck finding that. I have edition #4, which started with car 1540611 in March, 1931, which is the edition at the AACA library. Try giving them a call, I bet you could just put in an order and pay a nominal fee for copies and postage. The AACA library is an invaluable resource for us!

Thanks to everyone on the tour, had a great time! -Chris Lutz

Back from the Sentimental Tour. Had a great time. Continued with the MG over the weekend. Took the bumper off, had to cross-cut each bumper bolt to drill it out, as all primary captive bumper bolts were spinning in place, making it impossible to extract the nuts on the other side of the bumper. Can't believe how light the bumper is. It offers almost zero protection from anything (photo 1). Continued on to remove the exterior grille facing, most of the bumper support brackets, and the front fascia. (photo 2, 4). After a good soaking in penetrating lube, most of the nuts and bolts came out okay, with only a couple bolts breaking. Starting to accumulate a nice pile of rust, dust, dirt, metal shavings, and who knows what else is coming from the car (photo 3). Next will be the inner grille and starting to work on getting the front fenders off. Still haven't discovered how to get the headlight buckets out, as the wiring does not appear to have any obvious connectors. Any knowledge on this would be appreciated.

Got packed for the Sentimental Tour early, so found some more time. Took apart the headlights and bumper over-riders this time. I found that most of the nuts and bolts are quite rusty, but penetrating oil took car of most of them. So far, the car also has a lot of attaching bolts with nuts on the back, which means the whole works spinning in place or putting a wrench on one side and a screwdriver on the other and trying not to strip the screw, Had to drill out a few, as the Philips heads we too rusty and immediately stripped, but was lucky on most of them. Not sure how to get out the headlight wiring yet, as I'm new to the MGA family. Maybe there's a connector upstream somewhere? For now, they just have to sag out of their openings. The over riders were easy, but the bumper is going to be tough. The captive bumper bolts are spinning in place when I try to take the bolt off behind them, so not sure how to get them off at the moment. Probably will have to cut them off. Looks like disassembly will be slow going. Also picked up some 1960 VA plates today. Will register them soon. Off to the tour tomorrow AM, maybe see some of you there! -Chris

Thanks for the words of encouragement, photos, and tips, they are appreciated. Got it insured and the British Heritage Trust Certificate is on order in the meantime. I also noticed that the mouse family in the boot decided to move out sometime before I got it home, so that's good. Getting ready for the Sentimental Tour, so no work on the MG until I get back.

I've only restored one car so far, a 1974 Camaro Z28, from 2001-2010 and it was very difficult and expensive, but it came out very nicely. Won a First Junior award with it in 2013. I was fortunate enough to recently double my garage space, as I've wanted to restore another car. I like just about all cars, but I ended up choosing a 1960 MG MGA for various reasons. It's in rough but reasonable condition and had one owner until 2008 or so, then 2 owners who were just flippers and never titled the car, so technically, I'm the second owner. The goal is to do a complete frame-off high-level restoration making the car as original/authentic as possible and to do as much as possible myself. I'll be learning to weld and probably to do some paint and bodywork, but I'll go to a machine shop for the engine. I picked it up in North Carolina yesterday and I don't want to waste any time in getting started. Had it titled today and started the restoration. So far, just took off the front license plate bracket. That took 45 minutes as the screw heads got stripped eventually, so had to drill them out. Next up is to get it insured as is and send off for a British Heritage Trust certificate so I can get a little more info on it. I hope to work on the car frequently, put some posts here, and have it done in 3-5 years.