hursst
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Posts posted by hursst
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Still more odds and ends to tend to before the car gets shipped to the British car shop.
Installed the windshield wipers (Photo 1). I may end up taking these off again, because who knows if the wipers will work properly and in which position they will start in. I wouldn't want them to grind into the cowl panel.
Next, I lowered the car off the jack stands and torqued and cotter-pinned all the suspension bolts. I'll have the Shop do another check to makes sure I didn't miss anything, although they will need to torque the steering ends, as the ball joints just spin in place and I don't have the proper tools to prevent that.
In the "attention to detail" section, I reproduced the mint green blotch of paint that I found on the rear axle when I originally disassembled and cleaned it. Looks white in the photo, but it's actually minty fresh (Photo 2).
Some more progress on the home-made door pockets. First, I completed the vertical portion of both pockets (Photo 3). I'm currently working on the U-shaped pockets themselves from a piece of card stock that seems to match the original almost exactly (Photo 4). I had to cut out the cardboard, bend all sides so they can be fastened to the vertical pieces, then glue on the vinyl. I couldn't do it all at once, as the pocket sides need to be bent at 90 degrees, so had to do the center first, then each 90 angle had to be clamped in, in order to get the glue to set on the card stock properly and the correct angle. Still a lot of work to do, as these will need small holes drilled/punched in order to fasten them to the vertical piece using split tacks, as original. I'll then need to piece together the chrome washers and screws that attach the whole works to the doors. The driver's side will be easy, as that door is original and all holes in the door are already there. With the passenger door being as NOS door, there are no holes for the door pockets and door card, so I'll have to mark them as a mirror image of the driver's door. Should be pretty easy, as it doesn't have to be perfectly lined up, just very close, so I can simply punch holes thru the door cards to insert the mounting screws. I think it will cost around $9 to make them myself; if I bought them, it would either be in a $500 kit, or I would have to find individual ones that would probably be around $200 for a set. Not bad when your labor costs $0/hr.
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Thanks for all the great tips. I'm going to attempt leaving the wheel and steering box on at this point. It may be easier for me to remove the transmission, clutch, and flywheel, and leave the burdensome bellhousing in place on the chassis so I don't have to remove the burdensome steering wheel and steering box. If that doesn't work, then I'll have to reapproach the steering wheel removal anyway, where I'll have to use some of your great tips and tricks.
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Working on the odds and ends now. Installed the front interior trim in front of the door. Also found the original cable clutch nut and bolt for the "Demister" cable. Cleaned that up and installed it. Last, started making my own door pockets (Photo 1). I found the perfect outer card material, but had to use a thicker backing material, which is almost twice as thick as original, but there' no other material available. Should turn out just fine. For now, using the original I have to cut out the backing panel, cut out the new vinyl, and cut out the pocket card material itself.
Also stopped by my British Car shop to give them a heads up. I'll meet with them again in two weeks and I will schedule having the car towed into their shop then for initial startup and a thorough shakedown.
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TAKerry, thanks for the offer. I just need the door pockets, not the door cards themselves. Luckily, I have that one original, so it looks like I already have good backing material, I just need some of that lighter cardboard for the actual pocket itself, which yes, I think I can get at any craft store.
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Big progress today. First, installed the lower rocker trim on both sides (Photo 1). Next, had to friends over and they were able to help me get the windshield installed (Photo 2). Took about four tries as the two repro gaskets on each sound of the mount were a little too thick. Ended up using only two gaskets and a few layers of painters tape in order to get it to fit and seat properly. Had a few problems with some of the original fasteners on the sides of the windshield. Two of the screws were stripped, so I'll have to figure out some replacements. Last, I installed the two grab handles on the windshield post (Photo 3).
Next will be to install the wipers and wiper arms and the front interior trim panels, now that the windshield is installed. Will probably hold off on the door pockets to see if I can get some at the Carlisle import show in May, as I'm not going to buy the $600 kit. If I have some extra time (unlikely), I may just make them myself, as I have the vinyl. I would just need the card backing, which I could probably get at a craft store. I still have one original door pocket to use as a template.
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1 hour ago, 60FlatTop said:
The best source for those C-clamp steering wheel pullers is the old style military surplus houses. I got mine from the place between Hershey and Williamsport on PA RT 147 with the tank out front.
One of those Murphy's Law tools. If you get one you probably won't need it again, which ain't really a bad thing.
Thanks. Do you have a better idea on the location for the place on Rt 147? I'm not familiar with that place.
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Hello,
I'm trying to remove my engine on my 1930 Plymouth 30U to get it rebuilt. In order to do this, the steering column must be removed. In order to do that, the steering wheel must be pulled, so the steering column and steering box can be removed thru the firewall.
Attached is a photo of the steering wheel after the clum switches have been removed. I've since drilled two holes in the steering wheel metal in order to install a steering wheel puller. I tried using this, and the steering wheel won't budge. At a certain amount of torque, the threaded part of the puller will start to move off of the center threaded portion of the steering wheel.
I don't know what to do now, the steering wheel will not budge. Does anyone know a secret to this, is there something I'm missing here? It feels like it's welded on, no motion whatsoever. Thanks for any help or tips. -Chris
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Thanks again for the advice. I have a limited budget, but may have to just buy new and maybe finance it.
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Thanks for all the advice. I'll keep my ear to the rail for good used ones, but I think I'll have to at least price out new ones in the meantime. I'll try racingjunk.com., too.
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Thanks, all told, turning out quite nicely, especially compared with the pile of trash I started with.
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Thanks for the replies, but I'm getting mixed messages here. Some folks say I need to remove the steering box, some say I don't. Can someone clarify this? When I remove the engine, do I just unbolt it from the bell housing, or do I need to remove the bell housing with it, which includes the two large legs that go to the frame that hold the starter and brake master cylinder, which means I would definitely have to remove the steering box. Thanks.
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Yes, it appears to be all attached. I guess my next question would be, how do I remove the engine, do I just unbolt it from the front of the bell housing if I don't need to remove the steering box/column? Will the flywheel clear the bellhousing when removing the engine? I don't have any experience in really taking this car apart, so I don't know what to expect. Thanks!
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I am looking for a project Cushman or Sears/Cushman scooter from about 1946 to 1960. I'm not interested in an Eagle. Looking for something a little rough, missing parts, or even a little junky for a restoration project. Even just a good frame as long as it has a title and can be identified by model...or maybe even without a title. Also needs to be within about 150 miles of Washington, D.C. PM me if you think you may have something for me. -Chris
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It's now a little surreal walking into the garage and seeing a basically completed car now. Was able to get some good time in today, finally. Got my Moss order yesterday.
First, I was able to complete the taillight assemblies (Photo 1). I got my other door reinforcement bracket and installed bot the original and the repro (Photo 2). I also installed the grille (about 90% installed) (Photo 3). I still need to torque the bolts a little, but will get some help shortly to see if I can get it pressed in a little more and tighten the bolts to hold it in place flusher to the body. Currently, some of the piping is not secured to the body, as seems to happen with all of these cars. I may have to glue the piping to the grille to keep it in place.
Not much left to do now. Sunday, I'm having some friends over to help me install the windshield assembly. Once that's complete, I can install the front trim panels. I'm still missing the door pockets, so that will have to wait a little longer. I also have to install the rocker trim strips, which basically just involves me drilling a few holes where they need to be and bolting the trim on. Last, I will have to work on the paint chips I've created and work a little more on the wet sanding and try to get those scratches out.
I just bought a truck to haul an enclosed trailer (still need to buy the trailer), so I can move my classic cars around to shows and maintenance, which has always been a problem for me. My older cars are either too nice or too old to drive any long distances. I will drive the MGA, but I want to take it to some shows first, after all the work I put into it. I think by May I'll be ready to take it to a shop to get it started and do all the shakedown work. Shouldn't have any problem getting this to Fall Hershey 2024.
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I'm interested in purchasing a used 20' enclosed trailer within 100 miles of Woodbridge, VA. If you happen to have one for sale or know of one for sale in good condition, please PM me. Thanks! -Chris
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Hello,
I need to remove my engine for a redo of some kind, but it's a lot more work than I thought. My current work is trying to remove the steering column and maybe the steering box, so I can get clearance to remove the engine, since it has those wide legs on it in the back and won't clear the steering column.
I've removed the clum switch, hardware, and the throttle and headlight levers from the top of the steering wheel. I've also unscrewed the steering column to the point where I can move it by hand now, but it won't come free from the steering box. Obviously, there are gears in there, but I'm not sure what to do to remove the steering column. I wanted to ask the group before I start taking the steering box apart and/or do any damage, in order to try to figure this out.
Thanks for any help! -Chris -
Finally got some real time back in the garage today, since it's a rainy day and I couldn't do any outside things I need to do.
First, I was able to pick up my MG octagon at the chrome plater last week, as the plater had brazed a broken stud onto the wrong location. This time, the studs were way too thick to go into the holes, so I tried to carefully grind them down with a Dremel tool, but two of them broke off, maybe because of the heat created. Luckily, 2.3 of them remained, so I could clip the two that were still good, and opposite of each other, and there was just enough stud left on one of the broken ones to fit a clip. Unfortunately, the fourth one has no stud, but it seems to be good enough as is. I'm going to call it done (Photo 1).
Next, I tackle the front valance panel. This panel turned out very nice from the painting process, so combined with the fact that you can't really see it, I decided to not wet sand it and just leave it as is. Of course, I had to fight it every step of the way, but it fit very well once adjusted. I also had to paint or repaint all the bolt heads and washers once they were installed, as they all had some damage just from the installation process (Photo 2).
Last, I installed the front bumper. Same thing, had to fight it every step of the way, as it's very awkward and there are many difficult to get to bolts. I still need to tighten some of the attachment bolts, but it's mostly on there (Photo 3). Debating on whether or not to install the front license plate bracket under the bumper, where it was originally. Probably looks much cleaner without it.
I also ordered a bunch or missing parts from Moss, so should get that next week. I'm still going to have to search for some door pockets, as all the places I've checked so far only offer it in kits, so I don't want to spend $600 to get $100 worth of parts and be saddled with these extra parts. I may try to restore one of the originals with new vinyl, but I'm missing the other one completely.
Last, I'm still sewing up the tonneau cover. It's quite a lot of work, but going well. Just taking bite-sized pieces off it, but eventually, I'll get the whole thing complete.
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Been a little while, but got back to the MG a little today, although it will be another two weeks before I can get back to it again. Took a 1-week vacation, but since then it's been a tsunami of problems such as all types of car issues on my other cars, trees down on my property from a wind storm, various home repairs, numerous routine medical appointments, and many, many other small things that have gotten in the way. Every day has been a battle to shorten the to-do list to try to get back to working on the MG, but each time I check something off, I something else pops up. Decided to just take a break and make 2 hours for the MG today and was able to finally install the other headlight (Photo 1).
My plan to go to the British car junkyard this coming Friday to pick up the small missing parts I need fell thru, as the owner of the junkyard has his wife screening calls, but she can't help on anything, then says to send an email. Of course, there was no response to my email. I think they are overwhelmed and can no longer work properly as a functioning business. So, I had to go to the hardware store and just make due. If I can find these missing parts in the future, I'll swap them out. Had to install the headlight assembly about 5 times, just like the last time, due to some small errors I made, but mainly due to the fasteners not fitting as expected.
I'm also trying to remove my '30 Plymouth engine during all this, to get it to a rebuilder, but have run into difficulties there as well, as it seems I will have to remove about 3x as many parts to get the engine out as I originally thought, such as the brake master cylinder, the clum switch, the entire steering column, and who knows what else. I'll have to earmark a day just to try to work on that shortly, if I can ever get caught up on all the other every-day tasks I have to do. So close to finishing the MG, but it still may be months away at this point.
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Thanks Randy. I wish I would have waited and tried to find some NOS rockers, but nothing to do about it now. I taped up my fenders and doors upon installation and ended up with chips after I thought I had them lined up. Upon opening and closing the doors all the way, that's when the damage was done. I also don't have anyone available to help me, so my two eyes do miss things that others could see while I'm moving panels around. I'll repair it shortly, not too worried about it.
Making a video is a good idea, but I think that will be a while, as I think that many of the components on the car will not be working properly once we go thru the initial shakedown, so I think it will take a couple months of adjustments, repairs, and replacements to get everything dialed in properly.
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Got the driver's fender "complete" and on the car, loosely (Photos 1 & 2). I say "complete" because it will still need more work because I can't get the 1500 grit sanding scratches out well enough, as usual. Will probably re-wet sand most of the panels once the body is complete starting with 2500 and see where that gets me. I'll worry about that a little later. Next is to repeat the same process as the last fender, fitting of the fender, tighten all the bolts and secure the welting, and install the headlight and parking light assemblies, once I get the right fasteners. Also, found some original parking light bezels on ebay. Perfect condition and installed one on the passenger side.
I didn't find much I can use at the junkyard as far as my missing fasteners. No MGAs, only MGBs and Midgets, which use different hardware for the most part. Found two headlight adjustment screws that MAY work, but they are slightly shorter and a slightly different design. I will try a British Car junkyard near Philly in a few weeks and just try to buy all the right parts. Don't want to do repro junk unless I'm forced to do so.
Last, I started on re-sewing my tonneau cover. About 25% finished (including the work I already did about 3 years ago). The work is very easy, but very time consuming, because it must be 1,000 stitches or so.
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Completed wet sanding the last fender with 1500 grit today. Looking good so far.
I'm now ready to install the door cards and door pockets, so I broke out all the parts, only to find that I failed to ever order the door pockets, just the door cards. Moss seems to only offer this as a big kit for about $600, so I want to avoid that. I'll try some other suppliers.
I also found that at this point, I'm missing a lot of small parts such as both parking light bezels, two fasteners for the headlight buckets, two screws for the taillights, bullet connectors for the taillights, one door stiffener bracket and four mounting screws, two headlight aim screws and their water-tight sheaths, and heater door mounting hardware. I'm going to try to find some parts at the junkyard, as they used the same parts on many cars, otherwise, I'll have to order from a catalog or try a British car junkyard I know when I visit next month.
Next, I assessed the tonneau cover and it looks like the original stitching is completely worn out and is close to just disintegrating, so I'm going to re-sew the entire cover minus the sewing I did on it a few years ago. The good news is that I can just use the original holes, which will make the sewing easy, but the bad news is that there is a LOT of sewing to do, so I'll just do a little each night until it's complete. I don't feel like paying someone to do it, as I know they will find a way to mess it up. It passed the stretch test without any problem, so I can probably coax it back into shape over time, once I fix the stitching.
Last, I've started a side project of pulling the engine on my 1930 Plymouth for a rebuild, so trying to do that work while I do things like wait for paint to dry or just to take a break from the endless sanding. The Plymouth is good driver quality, but the "driving" part is not good anymore because of completely oil-fouled plugs. Maybe one day I'll restore the whole car, but for now, I want to keep it a driver. Trying to not let this side project slow down the MGA work.
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After car 60637, in early 1959 or so, they changed the design, no snaps on the door anymore. As you can see from mine, it's still super-tight. In my case, too tight, as I can't even snap all the snaps.
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Completed installing the roadster top and got it tucked behind the side curtain storage bag behind the seats. Everything seems to fit well. I also vacuumed out the interior again and installed the factory floor mats (Photo 1).
Next, I installed the factory tonneau cover that I fixed up quite a few years ago (Photo 2). Unfortunately, it has shrunk over the last 64 years, so I wasn't able to attach all the snaps. I heated it up with a blow dryer to get most of the fasteners snapped. I'm going to let it sit on there for a while and see if it will acclimate and stretch out a little. If not that, it might just split. I tried zipping the zipper in the center, but it's too tight and started popping the original stitching. The stitching I did held up nicely, but if I can get this to eventually fit all the snaps, I'll have the whole thing resewn to ensure it has the strength it needs. I think putting this thing out on a hot day would definitely give it enough pliability to fit on there, so maybe I'll try that on Wednesday, as it will be 70 degrees here.
I also connected the headlight and parking light wiring to the main wiring harness, although I need to do some research to see how the wiring is supposed to hang and attach to various body bolt tabs.
Last, I started wet sanding the last fender. Got about 50% thru 1500 grit sanding. Getting closer...
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How do I remove the steering wheel on a 1930 Plymouth 30U
in Technical
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Was able to get the engine out without removing the steering box by removing the trans, clutch, and flywheel. Thanks again for all the help!