West Peterson

One of your friends that's doing careful measuring and research has politely (sort of) corrected me. He believes a still life with fruit will work much better than the dried flower arrangement. Sorry. I'll get serious now. Here's a solution, and you don't even need to modify anything under the hood. No, I'm not talking about removing the hood (and body). What about using one of the oil-bath units??? I'm assuming that there isn't the chance of your manifold being from a bigger series Buick. Would that be assuming too much?

If you "got to the video," your questions will be answered. The cars have been sold to a single buyer, and are already "out the door". In my opinion, it's not a "barn find," since the cars were owned by a collector (AACA and CCCA member). I doubt the cars were bought "on the cheap," though since they were bought in bulk, the buyer probably got a good deal on the lot. For a look-see of what that Renault town car will look like when its restored, go here: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2733644560077698672ndxjoQ Although the car is a 1938 Packard (in the Blackhawk Collection, Danville, California), the body came from a Renault, and looks to be identical. Many of these custom bodies were built in threes, so its possible the only differences would be in trim selection.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Let's hope the "editor" took plenty of pictures for our Philly Picture Rerun this year. Wayne </div></div> 300! Including the 1932 V8 roadster above. The photo below is my car (from Minnesota) with the 1st Minnesota Infantry monument at Gettysburg in the background. "When Maj. Gen. Winfield S. Hancock, commander of the Union Second Corp, rode up to assess [sickles botched meneauver], only one regiment was at hand to stop the Confederate tide – the 1st Minnesota ... with leveled bayonets, the Minnesotans crashed into Brig. Gen. Cadmus M. Wilcox's Alabamians who outnumbered them 4-to-1." "The charge successfully accomplished its object. <span style="font-weight: bold">It saved the position and probably the battlefield. </span>The loss of the eight companies in the charge was 215 killed and wounded (more than 83 percent), 47 men were still in line AND NO MAN MISSING. In self-sacrificing desperate valor, THIS CHARGE HAS NO PARALLEL IN ANY WAR. The next day, the remaining men participated in repelling Picketts Charge, losing 17 more men." For many, many years, it was believed that my great-great grandfather Erickson had fought here with the 1st Minnesota. It wasn't until recent research that we found out he was fighting for control of the Mississippi River at the time. He signed up in 1861 (at age 16) and survived the whole war, marching with Sherman on his way to Savannah.

Haven't done any compression testing, but I really don't think that's the problem. I have been doing some thinking, though... 1. Timing may be a little bit off, although it really runs smoothly. Wouldn't it run kind of rough if the timing were off? 2. My tires are oversized 7:50-16 rather than 7:00-16, causing an odometer error, but that wouldn't make a difference of more than about a 1/2 mile per gallon (mathematically). 3. New gas doesn't give as good mileage as the old.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Restorer32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Used to be you would see NOS Tucker heaters at almost every large flea market. </div></div> ... and radios.

With three air cleaners now at your disposal, you could put together a nice arrangment of dried flowers by turning them upside down and placing them on your dining room table for a nice Fall decor. This could be used all the way up through and including Thanksgiving. Don't forget to use a doily under your unique vases so as not to damage the table. (This is directly from page 35 of the lastest issue of Martha Stewart's <span style="font-style: italic">Living Behind Bars</span> magazine.)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Paul Dobbin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As far as I know all of us finished the 6 days of touring without major problems with the Early V8's. </div></div> Ahem... Ironically, Radford's tour number was "13." Also from North Carolina... Kitty Hawk to be exact. At least it's a Ford V8 roll-back rather than a GM, or that could have been embarassing.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The business about the big three squashing Tucker because they believed that his product was so revolutionary and the public would abandon them for Tucker is somewhat sensational, sells books and movie tickets.There, I said it. </div></div> What he said.

1935-37 Packard 120. First-rate build quality, excellent engineering, extremely good reliability, and beautiful styling. Not overly big (as were the big Eights and Twelves), capable of speeds of 85mph, extremely quiet, and great dealer network for service. At around $1,000, it was a "Packard" for the price of a Series 40 or 50 Buick (no disrespect to Buick, which in my opinion could certainly be included on this list as well). In my opinion, one of the most overlooked cars, ever. Almost completely ignored because of the desirability of the big Eights and Twelves of the same period. In fact, the 120 Packard of 1935-36 with its independent suspension and hydraulic brakes was more refined than the Eights and Twelves, which didn't get those features until 1937. Paced Indy 500 in 1936.

I don't believe there was a conspiracy, unless there was some personal vendetta against Tucker himself. If people think that the big companies were simply trying to eliminate competition, then how does that explain why General Motors was giving help to Kaiser (who was Much, Much more of a threat than "lil old Preston Tucker.")

Most of the snow is in the mountains. John, do they use much salt on the east side of the state?

Pat It's much, much drier out there. It's very humid in the south.

For yellowed tires, clean them first (simple green or whatever), then wipe on and soak with mineral spirits. Wipe off. Then scrub with Simple Green. I've found that Simple Green is much better than Westley's Bleach White (even though they use my name). I wash with the Simple Green afterward to remove the "melting" abilities of the mineral spirits.

You are in luck!!!!. The Hornet's Nest Region has just signed up to hold an annual AACA national judging meet at the Charlotte Autofair. This coming spring will be the first, April 3-6.

Yes. You could also touch up those chips yourself. With some correct color and some time, you can slowly build up those chip craters, filling them slightly higher than the final finish. Carefully knock down the repaired area with some 600-grit wet/dry sand paper, moving up to 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit, followed by a fine-cut polishing compound, polish and wax. You can save yourself a lot of money, but if you don't have the time, you may be better off having it done. If, however, you're talking about a whole bunch of chips, such as sand-blasted front fenders, it would be better to respray the area and blend into your old paint, or paint the whole fender (or grille, or whatever). It may be hard to "blend" if you've got an odd (read special mix) color.

I know you need to be careful about rubbing, or sanding, right through. If you used a file to "knock" down dents and for smoothing, you may need to start with a more aggressive grit. 1000 is pretty fine. If, however, you've already worked out the filing and sanding marks, you may need to move up to 1,500, then 2,000 grit, then moving on to using a buffing compound that has some fine polishing grit, followed by a non-grit polish. Good luck. I'm sure others will pipe in to give advice as well.

I'm talking about wax... the protective layer you put on last. I'm not sure what other kind of wax there is. If one is trying to remove oxidation or scratches, wax, or even polish, won't touch it (polish, to some degree, will, but it won't bring the full color back out... you end up with sort of a hazy shine). You need to have some grit in the compound to get down to the good paint. Wax and polish do not have any grit. If your scratches are really deep, you may have to go to some wet sanding using 600-1500 grit. I've been using the 3M heavy cut and medium cut on my car, followed with a Meguiar's #2 polish, followed with a Meguiar's #3 wax. It's not perfect, but then, neither is the car. It looks 100 percent better than when I got it. There is, of course, more than one way to skin a cat.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Orin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Congrats. What products did you use? I recently purchased a '35 Packard with a 30 year-old very worn out lacquer paint job, and that's one of the projects I have ahead of me. I bought a book on the topic, and it said to start with a good wax job, see if it works; if not, then try a deoxidizer, see if it works; if not, then rubbing compound. </div></div> A 30-year-old lacquer paint job is exactly what I started with. I'd definately skip the idea of starting with wax. At the very minimum, you'll need to start with a polish. What you start with will depend on how the paint job was rubbed out to begin with. I suggest you start with either a 3M medium cut or heavy cut if you've got some fairly good scratches (l had some claw scratches on my hood, and the heavy cut took them right out). If you start with the heavy cut, your next step will need to be the medium cut. Follow with a good polishing compound, then wax. I heartily suggest you get an electric buffer (BE CAREFUL ON THE EDGES -- TAPE THEM OFF. I have a dual-action (D.A.) buffer that is much more forgiving on the edges.)

I've spent a little time rubbing out the paint, polishing it, and waxing. It's quite a change.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I want to also say that West Peterson's "I don't have an FN button!" finally got me. My "N" button fell off this week on this laptop. COOL!..... NOT</div></div> Hey! I represent that remark!! After three years of doing Antique Automobile, I still don't have an FN button!! Nice photos and report, Mr. W. Congratulations. You've just secured a job as roving reporter for Antique Automobile. Would love to play cat and mouse with you on a tour some day. Ask Earl about his "fun" following me in my Packard on the last day of the Glidden Tour. We got the cob webs out of his Buick. Surprisingly, we gave a Model A a good run for his money, too. (Earl said it must have been "juiced.")

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1937hd45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If someone plans a TV "Restoration Shop" series the toughest thing ahead of them is the DEGREE OF FINISH. Just because you take money from someone to work on their car doesn't mean it is restored. I worked is a restoration shop for 14 years far more stuff went out the door with a "driver" restoration than a "show" quality finish. You can guess the owner told everyone at a show what he spent on the work but NEVER told anyone he asked for and got a driver finish. Used to drive me nuts cutting corners. </div></div> As Pat may have inferred, many of the good shops do not do "partial restorations," because the owner will say the car was restored by "so-and-so." The onlooker will look at the "partial restoration" and decide right then and there that when he gets his car restored, it will definately NOT be at the same shop. A restorer's work is his advertisement. If his "ad" looks bad, he loses business.

Great photo! I especially love the hardly-ever-seen-anymore roadside motel cabins in the background.

I'd like to hear opinions on this... The Cyclone Green Revolution Engine, is an external combustion, heat-regenerative engine. This engine offers a clean burning, non-polluting alternative to current gasoline and diesel powered internal combustion engines – an engine with low emissions and cool exhaust. It is capable of running on virtually any fuel, including pure ethanol and other bio-fuels, making us less dependent upon unstable foreign oil supplies. The engine is compact, lightweight and less expensive to manufacture and operate than I/C engines, but powerful enough to run equipment as large as busses, trucks, locomotives and ships. With this engine, we will experience an environment in which the air we breathe is 'scrubbed' and contaminating particles are removed by incineration in a motor that actually cleans the air instead of polluting it! Inventor Harry Schoell, Chairman and CEO of Cyclone Power Technologies, is a genuine entrepreneur and technology visionary, with over 30 patents to his name. Harry has worked for years to realize his dream to create the Cyclone Engine. This engine will eventually be used in everything from weed eaters and lawnmowers to vehicles, semi trucks and even trains. http://www.cyclonepower.com

Matt If you want to see your name in print more often, I'll give you an opportunity!!! Anytime you want to write about do-it-yourself projects, no matter how little, I'll make space.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: novaman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What joke?? </div></div> I don't have a clue. My Saturn may be on its last legs, and my son has just become of driving age. Since those Tatas will be so affordable, all I was trying to say is that I'd like to get a pair before dealers inflate them. What's so funny about that?