dwollam

Fast Four was not a Dodge Brothers name. Believe it came from advertisements where Dodge called them "Fastest Four in America". And yes, they are faster than the previous DB 4 cyl engines. More modern design with intake and exhaust, distributor through head, many small things. About all that remained the same was the cubic inch displacement of the engine. This same engine was used in 1928 in the 128/129 cars with totally different body, fenders, frame, axles, tranny, etc. Whole new car, same engine. BTW, since my last post I bought a 1927 GB Screenside with the Fast Four engine, mostly complete but very rusty. Probably will be a parts rig. I now have 4 of these engines, 3 in rigs, 1 spare.

Yes, but.... Ya don't get to clean out the grit and grunge that the screen filters and one can also dig some of that out of the pan with a little work. Loosen the fitting on the oil pump, pull both bolts and pull the screen. You will find it has gaskets too.

Ok. I don't get in here much any more. Yes, it is a 1927 124 Sport Roadster with the famed "fast four" engine. Actually John, the radiator shell emblem should be all brass and not enameled, although the earlier looks better in my opinion. Yes it has a S.A.E. shift pattern. The headlights, headlight bar and taillight are incorrect. The brass looking switches to the left of the instruments is not DB. It appears the front leaf springs are in backwards which moves the front wheels too far back as the bolt is not in the center of the springs. And as you said, the colors are incorrect but I could live with them except for the dark green on the engine. It should be a light gray green. However, each to his own. I personally paint my engines light gray because I don't like green! That all being said, it is much nicer looking than any of my three 1927 DB Roadsters, 2 of which are 124's. Dave

Aussie, that is a coupe or roadster spare mount.

Just remember, all the packing nuts turn the same direction in relation to the shaft. So, some are left hand thread, some are right. They loosen in the opposite direction the shaft turns. Once loose, slide the nut back away, then slide the gland out, clean out with a small wire, etc. Then put a round or 2 of water pump packing around the shaft, push the gland in, start the nut but don't over tighten. If the shafts are grooved from years of wear the will not seal well and eat up the packing pretty quickly.

Alan, here in the States there were no 128 Roadsters. 128's are 1928 models, 124 and 126 are 1927 models. There were Roadsters in 1927 but only Cabriolets in 1928 (128's or "Fast Fours). Cabriolets have roll up glass windows. Roadster do not. Cabriolets = Convertibles in more modern terms.

Lots of my 21" DB rims (26-27) have that type lock as did 28-29 Vic 6 and DA, though more than a couple different types as well. The earlier DB rims used a tongue and notch system as do some of my 21's. Just use a drift and hammer to knock the pins out AFTER letting the air out! The holes on the side of the rim are for an over centering tool to collapse and expand the rim. No, I don't have that tool. Wish I did. However, I quit using a rim jack and just collapse the rim in, remove the tire, tube etc, replace everything and push and pry the rim back in place, replace pin and air up. I also put the tires I am inflating underneath a car so if they decide to blow apart they will be safely contained. Unless of course one doesn't mind tearing their face or head off! These are OLD parts. I have came out in the morning to find wheels or rims separated overnight because of fatigued or rusted steel. One in particular was on my son's 24 roadster spare. It had a split the rim at the bottom, lock ring still intact and in place. Disc wheel itself failed. That was about 4-6" below waist level, I will let you picture where that would be, just glad I wasn't leaning over it to get something from the trunk when it let go! Dave

Bob, what denotes it being 22-23? How is it different than 20 and earlier? Dave

But.... Good luck finding new ones. If the old ones are usable, I would clean and reuse them. After all, those tall old tires and wheels don't turn near as fast as a modern car with smaller tires, nor are you driving 70 mph!

The corroded outer rings you mentioned are what they used to hold the rim to the fellow instead of the typical rim lugs that wood wheels use. However, the rim is the same as the wood wheels, so you could easily use the wood wheel lugs instead. There are 2 different 21" wire wheels for the 1927 cars. 1 type uses the wood wheel rim, the other type uses a lock ring like the disc wheels. Both have 6 bolt hubs instead of the normal 5 of the disc wheels. I have 3 of the 1st type and 2 of the second. Want to sell yours? Dave

Bill is right. Not a 26. The engine is a 1926/early 27 though. Frame is a 1927. The dash has a 26-27 speedo and a 24 light/ignition switch. Car is a 24 or 25. The tail light bracket is 1927. The spare tire mount (rusty one) is for a 24-27 disc wheel touring car. The other bracket attached to the car might be correct, but looks like a longer one for the 24" wheels. This car has what looks like 20" (1925). Looks like a pieced together car. Dave

It looks like it has the cast iron rear engine mount. If indeed it does, it is a 1927 126 Model. (the second of 3 series in 1927) These have the tranny moved back 1 1/2" which makes the driveshaft and torque tube an 1 1/2" shorter too. The front of the driveshaft and u-joint are splined instead of square like earlier models. The next series, 124 (fast four), moved the tranny back forward again so the driveshaft is back to the 1 1/2" longer but still splined. Don't get the 2 mixed up. Ask me how I know! Dave

I would date the blue one as a 1927 undesignated 1st series due to the 2 slotted holes in the front crossmember common to 1927 cars, also the brass DB emblem on the radiator shell and the late 26 type engine/bellhousing. The other I am saying 1927 124 series (3rd in the series for 1927) because of the "fast 4" engine sitting on the front of it. But, as Doug says, frame/toeboard serial numbers is the only true test. I would like to see more pics of that one. If I am not mistaken, is not the roofline taller on the blue one? They got lower later in the year. Also, the wood running boards are not correct, originals are steel. Dave

Where do you live? I may have what ya need. Dave

My 2 cents says it is a 24. The 24 had a headlight/ignition switch that mounted from the outside of the dash. 25 mounted from behind in the exact same hole. Looks to me like it just needs a good bath! When they went to the 1 piece windshield in 1926 they got a cowl vent. None on 25 and earlier.

Link works for me. Dave

I would also be able to make the fake glove box door on the drivers side of the dash work if anyone has one of those. Dave

I would also be able to make the fake glove box door on the drivers side of the dash work if anyone has one of those. Dave

Found and bought one! Thanks Rob!

Thanks Rob, for the manifold and carb. It was nice to meet you. I had a great time at the swap meet, managed to stay mostly dry! Dave

c49er, I sent you a PM. Thanks. Jack, Thanks for the info. Dave

Dave, did you buy this on ebay from that link or are you selling it? Thanks, Dave

Like the title says, I need a 1954 Chrysler 331 Hemi 4 barrel intake. 1954 only, has water neck on intake manifold. I have a 1955 or later manifold without water neck to trade or sell. Thanks, Dave

Like the title says, I need a 1954 Chrysler 331 Hemi 4 barrel intake. 1954 only, has water neck on intake manifold. I have a 1955 or later manifold without water neck to trade or sell. Thanks, Dave

I'm still looking.