dwollam

That cowl will of course fit that coupe chassis you showed.

There is a roadster in California that has a touring cowl and doors (shorter) with a roadster rear section. They slid the body forward to sorta match up to the doors and did a filler plate behind the trunk to hide the gap. Doors are curved different up and down considerably but they made it work. Looks a bit different but it is a running driving car!

Yep, late 22-23 touring car cowl

Yeah, 24-26.

Can you show pics of the dash and hinge area of your cowl?

Then I'm skinny Doug!!

here is a 14-19 touring door and a 24-27 door. 24-27 door is upside down but look at the difference in the hinges. 20-23 touring hinges are pretty much like that except of course the door is round bottom similar to the 14-19 door. All 14--23 roadster doors use the skinny cast hinges and a separate screwed on door top. 20-23 touring and all 24-27 open car doors are one piece including the top of door. hinge distance apart between cast hinges and stamped hinges are different too.

23crate, Are you in New Zealand?

See how small the cast hinge is? That's alot smaller than the stamped hinge of the touring car that's the 1 1/2" you measured. If you are just building the rest of the body and are not worried about it being stock, just use 20-23 touring car doors. They are much better doors and hinges! I get $250-$350 each for roadster doors. 20-23 touring doors are $125-$150.

More pics. This dash is Touring as evidenced by the cutout for the steering column. Roadster has no cutout as steering wheel is lower and seat is farther back. Correct dash is laying in seat.

Here are pics of '23 roadster windshield and door hinges.

Hi Rick! Are you going to put that 22-23 roadster together?

23crate, measure the up and down width of the hinge pocket in your cowl to determine if it is a touring or roadster cowl. They are different. I have real roadster doors and also touring doors. All '23 and earlier DB roadster can use the same door. '20-'23 Touring takes a different door and the hinges are different and won't interchange. '14-'19 touring doors are different as well.

23crate, Those doors referred to above are not DB doors.

Sorry but those are not DB doors.

Are you sure you have a '23 cowl? It looks to have square bottom doors. If it does, it is a '24-'26. '23 and earlier open DB's had round bottom doors. Late '22 and '23 are all by themselves. Roadsters used different doors and hinges than touring cars. The cowls will not interchange until 1924. Then the doors are the same for all open cars '24-27. '23 had outside door handles on open cars for the first time (includes late '22). The windshield posts are different from '24 and later though they look similar. Early '22 and earlier cowls and posts are completely different. '23 still used the 114" wb curved frame whereas '24-'27 used the heavier 116" wb straight frame rails. Different everything. I have some of each models. Hope this helps.

I actually got this car for my wife because she is a U.S. Mail Rural Carrier and has RHD vehicles of her own. I thought she might get a kick out of driving this one. We'll see.

I don't have any 1918 or earlier engines or cars so no issue there! I will do some looking in my parts and pieces and in books and see what I can find. Thanks Doug.

I pulled the windshield today and installed the rubber grommets I got from you Doug. Fit well. Also added the rubber strip between the bottom of the windshield and the cowl. Cleaned up and installed a correct right front hood latch too, and added a missing screw and nut to the left headlight mount.

Is that right Doug? A cap on top of the rod? I have never seen a cap on any of the pile of engines I have or anyone else's either! Something to look into I guess?

Oh yeah, forgot about the carb. The float developed cracks and sunk and the needle and weights and lid were so worn the needle would fall out of the weights when the top cover was removed so I replaced all that worn out crap. Now the carb works right and runs smoother. Seem to have the sticking valves lubed up well enough now so they are no longer hanging open. I believe this engine and car were rebuilt a very long time ago and has set and the valve guides dried out and maybe were a little tight to begin with. I have been running it with the valve covers off it so I can spray the valves with Gibbs every time I run it and they no longer want to stick. Only 1001 more things to take care of and it should be good. Fingers crossed....

Drove it out of the garage a couple days ago through a little snow and onto the lift outside and pulled the exhaust and installed a new muffler. I was tired of the carbon monoxide poisoning! Sound much quieter now too. It is amazing how many things can be wrong on a nice looking car . It is nearly driveable now after pulling the wheels and finding grease gushing out around the right rear brake lining, cleaning that up and adjusting the rod so the brakes would actually work. Also found the rear end was packed full of a thick nasty goo that took forever to ooze out and down to the proper level. The rear cover will get pulled soon and clean that muck out and put in new gear lube. Supposed to be in the 40's tomorrow so maybe I will take it for a little drive!

I pulled all the linkage and the bell crank on the exhaust manifold that was for a magneto and re bent the short rod to go direct to the dizzy (for you down under guys!). Works fairly well, took some creative bending over at least an hour but it works to hold distributor steady and advances and retards if needed. Once things are correct the DB's don't need retarded to start unlike Model A's & T's because they have automatic advance as well. Manual retard is for hand crank starting them.

Are you sure those felts are not the ones that go on the "wings" at the rear of the pan? Shouldn't be 2 felts inside at the rear main. Nothing goes down inside a channel. I glue the felt to the main block with a dab of "sillycone" in the corners. it in turn is pushed against by a rib in the pan, so no sealer there.

You can buy cold galvanize in a spray can. Works pretty good.