dwollam

The baffle is soldered in. The pan is also galvanized. Do not hot tank it. Just wash it out good with parts washer or gas ( I didn't say that). Scrub around in it until clean. It will come clean. Your float must be cracked. Probably best to find another one. Try Myersearlydodge.com or Romars. You may be able to use hot water and ice water to push the oil out of the float, then solder it up. You will have to research which to use 1st, the hot water or the ice water but the temp differential causes gas or oil the be expelled. I have watched it done but forgot which comes 1st. I'm thinking ice water, then hot water but not sure. Good luck,

Jan, your pic is of the front bed panel, not the rear cab panel. I don't have a '23 cab here to look at although I do have two '24 cabs and an early '22 and a couple more including a '23 screenside cowl but alas, no '23 rear cab sections or panels.

No one else noticed this is a 60's-70's Mopar dual trans bolt pattern bell housing? (with the orange paint) I think the other is for a pickup. Dave

I did just find pictures in the Master Parts List 9th edition but it only shows Magneto for RHD. The linkage I have looks like that. However, I have a distributor and the lever needs to push forward and back, not up and down as it is now. Mine has the bell crank (and rods) mounted on the exhaust manifold like the car no. 327779 and later.

Are you talking about the Mechanics Instruction Manual? If so, what page number? Or is there another book I don't know about? Thanks

I recently bought a '24 RHD DB Roadster. It doe not have all the required linkage and rods for the mechanical advance for the distributor. Need help from the fellas down under! Any pictures or factory drawings to show me what is missing would be appreciated. I may even need some parts if anyone has some spares. It is a running driving car but that linkage is missing parts under the hood. Thanks

The Dodge Story book is a great book but certainly far from perfect. Plenty of minor? errors. All the DB fours from 1914 - 1928 were the same cubic inch displacement, 212.3 . Actual horse power? Who knows, they changed cams in '24 or '25, then went away from the starter/generator in mid '26, then went to the so called "fast four" in late '27 which I believe had more power still.

I've tried to call him but just get an answering machine. He must be traveling. Will keep checking.

Some of the 24-25 roadsters had a box on the floor below that lid, some had a box connected to the deck up high right below the lid. I believe the high ones can be unbolted and removed. Coupes had the same setup. The roadster we had with the floor box was a really handy place to set gas cans and water jugs.

I will talk to the fella that actually makes the shafts for Myers. I know him well. I'll try tomorrow. I also know he makes more than 1 shaft as at least the 6 volt cars are different and as I recall maybe two different ones for 6 volt. (I know yours is 12 volt) I will also try to find some of my old shafts.

Ahhh! I have a mag on my '22 Screenside too, it has a coupler that pinches down regardless of where it is on the shaft.

It really has nothing to do with correct ignition timing. You can move the distributor a tooth at a time and the way to set the timing is to loosen the points cam screw and turn the points cam where ever you need it.

Where it says "Ford" is actually the intake. The 4 angle cut straight pipes are the exhaust. Highly modified Model T engine. Really cool. Value, I have no idea.

Don't even bother using 1st gear in these 4cyl DB's unless on a steep hill just starting out. I have had trannys I went through with a fine tooth comb and they wouldn't shift no matter what unless sitting still. Others just like it work fine. My current one in my '22 Screenside is a '26 tranny with the '22 top. I 1st put 90w gear oil in it to "flush it out" but it shifted so well I continue to run 90w to this day. All my others have 600w. I just got lucky on this one I guess. But really, give up on 1st gear, it's just not needed. You are nearly stopped again before you can get it into 2nd. Dave

Didn't see it mentioned anywhere in this thread but there will not be a ring ridge on any of the Dodge Brothers 4 cyl engines. Ever. The top ring comes all the way to the top of the bore, so no ridge is possible. Hence, no ridge to cut but also no ridge to show how worn the cylinder is! Measuring is the only way to tell on these. Don't be afraid to remove rod bearing shims, just use plasti-gauge to check clearances. Be careful doing main bearings, especially the center main(s) Don't want to have the crank bending and flexing because it is no longer aligned. Make sure crank turns easy by hand with rods disconnected when tightening the mains up. You should be ok if it moves freely. If the engine does not have shims, as they didn't come that way originally, the thick metal "shims" that hold the bearing shells in the rods can be machined down to take up clearance. If you machine too much, then add the thin brass shims to correct clearances.

Later ones were bronze, earlier were glazed. Is your car a 124 model with the so called "Fast Four" engine with distributor through the head? If so the bronze is correct. I think it was 27 only, maybe just late 27.

One should use "Water PUMP" grease. Any Model A Ford supplier carriers it.

Try here: www.robertsmotorparts.com look under "mounting pads and related parts"

Your car is for certain a 1927 124 model and would have the "Fast Four" engine. Looks like the engine you have is the earlier engine as was stated earlier.

I have 1 in a 31 Model A Coupe. Works fine although it is loud in o/d. Shifts with a lever. Back is straight through, forward is o/d. The Ryan Overdrive is a square aluminum box mounted just in front of the rear end. Mitchells are located near the center of the driveshaft. There is also the Borg Warner type, also near the center of the drive shaft tube.

Nice car! I love the '27's and especially the wire wheels! And the Fast Fours.

Yes your wheel is correct on some DB's. They came on Sport models and was probably available as an option. They also came on other cars as well, don't think Dodge built them. I have several of them. If I remember correctly I think I have only seen them on Gemmer steering box cars, which is correct on 1927 DB's but maybe some later '26's. Your horn button and quadrant look to be for the pre Gemmer steering box cars. It might have been added later on.

Joe looked me up after the eclipse. He searched every where, then gave up and when he was leaving he drove by my house and recognized a bunch of my cars! Had a very good visit with him.

If you want the car to drive and handle way better get some 14" wheels from any of the 63-73 A-Body mopars with the 4" 5 bolt wheel pattern and run 14" radial tires. I have always run radials on my 62 Lancer. They look much better too, the 13's are terribly small. And if for some reason you ever wanted to go back to 13's simply bolt them back on. No harm done.

Dash is different on Plymouth vs Dodge and 33 vs 34 is different as well. I have seen them changed over from a Dodge to a Plymouth so it is possible.