JohnD1956

I got mine at my local NAPA store last summer. I bought a universal set with the 90 degree sparkplug boot, but then had to specify the straight boot at the cap end. These were readilly available. John d

Can you explain how to use that homemade tool? I tried to rebuild my pump once but the instructions for that tool seemed to apply to the vacuum side of the pump, and I never did feel I had gotten that right. I think that was shown by decent fuel delivery but my wipers were very unreliable.

I have a 93 Regal with the 4 wheel disc brakes, and I would recommend you try freeing up and lubricating the sliders on the stuck caliper. The rear calipers remove in a similar fashion to the fronts, but the big difference is the parking brake hook-up. I did not have to disconnect the parking brake cable. But remove the studs and it swings right up. If you go to replace the pads, then you will need a tool to "screw" the pistons back in. On my 93, I usually pull off the rotor, and the old pads then reattach ( without tightening too much) the caliper on it;s holder. Then using the tool you can push on the tool and ratchet the piston at the same time to get it back in place. I have also put a large prybar behind the tool and then turned it to give added leverage. On some cars I understand the lever for the parking brake would have to be removed, but this is not so on the 93 Regal. Of course if it is the barking brake cable hanging up causing the pulling problem, then it's another whole story. But my 93's was not hard to replace either. Good luck.

Thanks for posting these photos. While I don't have a 54, I find this very interesting considering the demise of the Buick City plant.

If I recall corectly, the Carter and Rochester carbs will fit on the manifold. However, watch the manifold gasket. The manifold has a narrow bolt pattern (compared to 57 and up) but the exhaust passage hole to the base of the carb swings wide, and general kits may not have the gasket that fits this mounting area. Also, the linkage is adjustable at the point it connects to the carb, which you will need to fiddle with if you change to the Rochester carb.

Vinyl roofs are a PIA. Stick with paint.

I'm very interested in these posts as I have a similar problem as of late with my 56. Sometimes I wonder if it isn't partially todays gasoline blends. Perhaps they vaporize at lower temps? But I was thinking of replacing my fuel line with a home made custom one, so I can get the line up out of that valley. I'm also thinking of blocking the exhaust crossovers on the intake manifold. I have to pull it anyway since it sounds like the exhaust port cover plate may have deteriorated and needs replacement. Has anyone else blocked these ports and if so what material worked and what didn't?

I received a recent e mail with a much better idea about how to impact the gas prices than a one day boycott. A one day boycott is ineffective because sooer or later you will still have to buy gas. Maybe the way to go ( as per this e mail) is to boycott one supplier, for weeks or months. As the law of supply and demand go, if one has a big supply with no demand, then the price will usually receed to the level that there is demand again. So if we all stopped buying gas from one supplier, then their supply would maximize and if they wanted to get some income, they'd be forced to reconsider their price. When ( and if) they reduced their price, then we would go to them and boycott the next supplier, till the scenario repeats itself. Now this is an idea which could work. I don't know about in your state but the Mobil stations where I live are consistently higher in price than most others with the notable exceptions of Citgo. I would be glad to boycott these stations till all their milk in their mini marts went sour!

I had a three core radiator made last summer. At first the car was right then it started to creep upwards again. Later, for unrelated reasons, I drained the radiator and while it was dry, I noticed there was crud on top of the cores again. I had the radiator disassembled, and all the cores cleaned, then I got a in top hose filter from TEBKS enterprises. This is a fellow in the Riviera Club from Australia. The filter is easy to install, and I left my heater disconnected so none of the coolant could possibly circulate back into the radiator. This filter is pretty neat. It has a screw on cap and a stainless steel filter with plenty of screen holes so as to provide sufficient flow. Meanwhile I can't believe the crap it has caught. I also agree with the other poster, who recommended pulling the freeze plugs. There are alos two pet-cocks on the block. You may be able to unscrew these without messing with the plugs first. If the hole is covered over with a layer of rust, then you really need to pull the plugs and flush the bottom of the motor out. Good Luck

I don't think the paint was your problem to start with. If the gas was attacking the paint, it probably broke it down enough to pass with the rest of the air fuel mixture. I'd check to see if you have spark, since presumably the new carb is doing it's job. You might try a shot of starting fluid. If you get nothing, check electronics. Starting with new points and condenser. By the way, I had a condensor wire pull out on me on a 65 Electra once, because I didn't see the small loop of wire on the points plate that you are suppoosed to run the condensor wire through. Good luck

Bucent, I'm not sure about a 3100 in a 98. 1997 was the year for the big body changes in the Regal line. I know the cars similar to the 93 needed the engine lifted when equiped with the 3100. But the 1997 and 1998 look like mich bigger cars. So you'd have to get someone elses advice on this. But don't despair. I have a 95 Riviera with the Supercharged engine. I had to do the rear plugs from underneath because of all the coolan lines in the way from up on top. The easiest car I know of to do the plugs on is my 69 Electra. everything else seems o have some nuiance to tick one off. But I still love my BUICKS!!!!

I would think the 53 to 56 is the same, as in 57 I think the 322 became a 364. The 57 engine probably fits the engine compartment, but does have several differences. Also I think the the 56 322 is the first year with a harmonic balancer, so you don't really want to go older with the 53 to 55. Why don't you offer to buy the gent a newer nailhead engine and tranny in exchange for a return of the 56 motor. You may fine a newer motor and trans easier to acquire, and he may find it easier to work with than the torque tube setup. Plus the newer one could be a 401. I'd go to at least a 64 or newer nail head for this as that's when you start to get away from the dynaflow and into the turbo 400's.

When my wifes 93 Regal was 30K old, I had to take the car back to the dealer for something ( can't remember what) but at the time I thought I'll price the sparkplug replacement. The service guy said something like $40.00. I was lazy and said okay, go ahead. When we went back to pick the car up the bill was $70.00. I was madder than heck over this. I asked why? The guy said something about a tight fit and lifting the motor to do the job. I said Bull S--t! Thats the 3800, not the 3100 which does need the motor lifted for that job. HE said well they lifted the motor anyway. I asked why they didn't call me, because for $70.00 I would have reached in there and done the job myself, as I could see there is no way the motor had to be lifted. They tried to appease me without changing the bill. Tossed in a few car washes and an oil change, but never went back. The bum went OOB a few years later anyway. And I've changed those plugs two times since and never touched a motor mount. Every dealer I've ever had to work with has been much less than customer friendly and unconcerned with customer satisfaction.

I also had my tank redone by a gas tank renu dealer in Albany. He's the same guy who built my radiator. This process is marvelous. My tank had a big dent, and they were able to press it out and save my tank. It comes in two finishes, silver ( looks like a new tank) or a black corrugated which looks like undercoating. I took the black undercoating to match my car. They actually cut off a part of the tank on the topside. Then the tank is cleaned, and I believe blasted. They spot welded the filler neck in place before de-soldering the seam. The seam is replaced with this coating. Then they welded the top back on, coated the tank inside and out, and bake on the finish, like a powder coating I guess. The result was perfect. They really did an excellent job! And I can fill it right up the filler neck with no problems. Here's one thing though. I had installed a new sender unit several years earlier. When I started getting leaks, I figured the tank had a fatigue crack at the dent. After the tank was done, it leaked again. When we shook the tank with gas in it, it turned out to be the rivits holding the sending unit together that actually leaked. This guy had a special epoxy which he put over the rivits. Sealed the whole thing up nicely. I suggest epoxying those rivits fron the get-go. You can't see it on top of the tank and it sure beats dropping the thing another time. John D

I had a local shop make me a three core radiator using my original tanks, but the car still ran hot going to Flint last year. When got home I had to drain the system for another problem and I noticed there was debris in the top tank clogging some of the tubes. I had the radiator taken apart and rodded, then I bought a filter from TEBKA enterprises. This filter goes in the top radiator hose ( i did have to cut it, but it's several years old already) and I left the heater disconnected so all coolant has to pass the filter. I couldn't believe the crap that filter caught in just an hours worth of idling. I plan to pop my soft plugs and rinse out the water jacket sometime this summer. Then hook up the heater again.

If the car has the trunk lid luggage rack, check the seals on the bolts holding it on. If the car has a sunroof, check the drain pipe inside the car coming down at the C pillars. My Brother bought a nice 91 Ultra with this problem, and found that there was an angled connector at the point nearest the roof line that had come apart. He slipped it back together and didn't have any more problems for several years. If it was me, I'd put some adhesive on it as well. JohnD1956

Check the rubber piece of fuel line that attaches the fuel supply line to the fuel pump. Down below the pump on the passenger side. Is this deteriorated? Also how are the rest of your fuel lines? Is it all still steel to the tank pickup? If not, I'd check for more deteriorated rubber lines. Did you keep the original fuel filter? Is this deteriorated and sending debris into the carb? I had a terrible problem with my 56 Harmonic balancer this year. The car did run, but it was tough to keep going at an idle. It ran rough all the time.It seems many of the Nail head engined Rivera owners on the ROA maillist had a similar situation as well this past year. I'd check it out. Disconnect your generator belt and your power steering belt, then grab ahold of the outside of your balancer and see if it twists on it's center shaft. If so, you have the same situation. Mine was ruined. My crank was 3/1000th out of round from the damage as well. Got a replacement from Ken Reeves, and had Damper Doc in California rebuild it. Even though the car already has steel gears, I put in a new set of timing gears and chain while in there. Runs great now!

do any of these trade under different business names?

I knwo this is going to sound stupid, but what the heck. did you pull the dipstick and check to see if it really lost the oil? That funny sound, may have been a bad bearing on a water pump, where upon the coolant will pour out, but the only way for the oil to pour out is with major engine damage. Check the dip stick. A water pump may only cost around $100.00 to have installed.

That dealer is just taking you for a ride! Period! Here's what you might want to do. You will never recoup your investment unless the car is running. So , spend the $380 on the timing chain, PROVIDED the price includes the timing chain, and BOTH gears. Make sure the job will include all three parts. If you want to save additional money on labor, have him throw on a new water pump at the same time. This is another traditionally weak part, and a lot of the labor required for the timing chain is also required for the water pump. Then make friends with someone who is, or knows a classic car mechanic. Ask at work if someone has an interest in old cars and see if you can get their mechanic. If no luck, take the car to the busiest local non- chain auto parts store. Ask the counter man in the store for new wheel cylinders and a new Master cylinder. THEN ask for the name of a reliable local mechanic. You may not find the cheapest mechanic, but you will probably find a competent one. I say new wheel cylinders, because chances are your low pedal is caused by a leak there, where you really can't see it. The brake dust inside the brake drums is sopping up the leakage since it is slow, and the brake fluid evaporates. This happened to me once on my 56 Buick. It took me several months to finally pull all the brake drums where upon the problem was readily evident. You may not need the master cylinder, so have the mechanic install the wheel cylinders first and maybe you can return the unused master cylinder. But if not, you will save the mechanics time, and thereby your money by having the parts on hand. Do not buy rotors ( drums) unless the mechanic says yours cannot be "turned" or salvaged. One thing more. Even though you have the parts, offer to pay the mechanic's markup on the parts. This may cost you a small premium, however everytime I did this, the mechanic didn't charge me the markup. I figure by doing this, they realize that I know a bit more than average about their business, and I think I get better quality work. Of course, when I find a good mechanic I try to stick with them. Untill they estimate an exorbitant price for a job I know costs less. Really, get the timing chain done. I have done many, so it's really no big deal but it is always a pain in the butt, and you do need a fair assortment of tools. Then attack the brakes with a good mechanic. Good luck

For whom it may concern, I always felt that these cars just semed to lack something. I could never put my finger on what it was. Then this summer, at the Centenial meet, there was a sweet blue one, which I think had the 14" factory road wheels. And that was it. Those wheels seemd to push the tires out towards the fender more, giving the car a real muscular stance. It really seemd to be the missing link. John d

Lets see! 89K? Probably sat for several years awaiting a buyer. Runs for a little while then one day starts and drops dead...I bet it's the timing chain. I've had multiple Buicks. Once GM started with the nylon coated gears, and until GM started putting tensioners on the timing chain (in the 88-92 range I believe) every single Buick I owned need a timing chain and gears at this point. I would guess at a $400.00 estimate, which is kind of a shame since the parts are most likely well under $50.00. The good news is that if you have new timing gears installed at the same time , they should be the metal ones, and this will most likely outlast you and several generations of grandkids. Go for it, because it's probably worth it, and you'll need these sooner than later I fear. John d

Here are a few things to check, to try and find that rattle from under the car. Look underneath the front of the car. Lay right down on the ground in front, and look towards the rear bumper. About 12 inches from the front, is a thick metal bar which runs perpendicular to the length of the car. This bar may go through a bracket on each side of the car, right where the frame of the car is. There should be rubber bushings in the brackets which the bar runs through. Sometimes these bushings dry out and fall out, leaving the bar to bang against the frame every time the car goes over a bump. Also, this bar is connected to the lower suspension by a "link". There should be a link on each end of the bar, connected to the lower A frame of the suspension on each side. Make sure these are in place and push the bar around to see if this is the cause of your rattle. If this is not the problem, lay down on the ground on the drivers side of the car. Looking underneath towards the passenger side there should be the parking brake cable. Usually these are held very taught even when the parking brake is not set. There may be three separate cables to this system, and if one is broken, then there could be some rattling from one or more of the parts. Also, these cables are usually held up close to the floor pans of the car by heavy duty c style hooks. There is usually one on each side of the car generally attached to the heavy piece of frame that goes across the car under the back of the transmission. If either is missing, more opportunities for rattles. If neither of these check out, take the car back to YOUR mechanic and ask about the universal joints on the drive shaft. By the way, be sure to put some blocks in front of and behind at least one tire before laying under or in front of the car. Make certain that the car cannot roll, or be started while you're down there. You need the parking brake off to check those cables. Let us know if you find any of these to be the problem.

Unless the gas pedal sticks on your 69 GS 400 Convertible, with standard drum brakes no less.

I would like to add my story and agreement with the others. Buy Buy Buy. I always wanted a 69 GS 400 Convertible since college in 1970. Never thought I could have such a toy however. The price of these things just keeps going and going and going, worse than the eveready bunny. Then 10 years ago my sister calls me and says you have to see my neighbors Buick Convertible. She didn't know anything else about it but it's old and red. So I made a trip and there it was, a Red 69 GS 400 Convertible. Joe had just bought it with his friend from Connecticut. They were partners and no they were not interested in selling. 10 years later, the only thing I remembered about the car was it was red, and the dumb ass Jaguar hood ornament that was mounted in the hood right between the two ram air scoops. Then last summer, I was speaking to my sister and asked if Joe still had the car. She didn't know and couldn't remember the last time she had seen it. But she agreed to ask and later that month, she tells me that the car is in Conn, and Joe hadn't seen the car himself in six years. He wanted to get out of the partnership with his friend since he really didn't have much to do with the car anyway. A short conversation with Joe points me to his partner George. Armed with Georges E mail address, I asked if he still had the car and wanted to sell. 45 days go by. At this point, my wife was pretty much against the purchase, and I couldn't even remember if the car was a Skylark or a GS anymore, so I figured it wasn't for sale and talked myself out of following up. Then I get an e mail from George. I wasn't even going to open it. Except, it was labled GS 400. So I did, and lo and behold, George was interested in selling. He wanted to know if I wanted to come and see the car, about a 3 hour trip from where I live. His price was VERY reasonable for such a car. My wife made it obvious that it was not going to be easy, convincing her that the car was a good purchase, So I figured, Forget about it. But it was gnawing at me. So on an unrelated trip, I called George and made arrangements to see the car. One look and I was hooked. A 27,000 mile original car. Bought new in the Bronx, NY, by Georges Uncle, the car never left the northeast. Uncle #1 used to pull the car in and when he hit the concrete abutment in the front of the garage, he knew it was in far enough to get the door closed. Needless to say, the bumper was slightly squished. The only options were power steering, and Air Conditioning along with the tinted glass. Uncle was a bit ecentric, thus the Jag hood ornament, and a police spotlight drilled right through the windshield frame, both of which George had removed a long time ago, but the holes were never patched. Then Uncle#1 passes and Uncle # 2 takes it over. He manages to get some sort of dent or scratch in just about every corner of the car, and he only things replaced on the car was the battery, the tires, the starter and one set of single exhaust. Just before going into a nursing home, he calls George and offers it to him and Joe. They have had the car for 13 years or so and never did anything to it. I called my wife on the way home so she would hopefully get over it before I got there. And she was downright mad. After all, I already had three toys. By the time I got there she had cooled off, and then starts telling me to make a counter offer. But I said no, I really didn't think I could afford it, and I didn't want it if it was going to make her pissed off all the time. For her part she just kept saying you know you want that car. Go ahead and buy it! So another 30 days goes by and I'm at my sisters house for a gathering when in walks Joe. I apologized to him for leading him on but told him if he would sell the car for 2/3rds of their asking price, I'd put up with my wifes complaints. Another 30 days goes by and I figuring it's a dead issue when I get an e mail from George to come and pick the car up. And now I don't even know how I lived all last summer without it. Let me see if I can add a picture. I replaced the tires, plugs, and wires, along with the rest of the original ignition parts, and put on new dual exhaust, and tried like crazy to shine up the paint. Otherwise this picture is pretty much how I got it.