JohnD1956

Is that cable screwed on under the dash? I believe my 69's have the spring loaded clip that hold the cable casing to the back of the speedometer head. It's not really tricky to undo, just reach up to the cable, follow it to the head, and then push towards the head to release the springs. Of course, this is one of those jobs where having a second person is almost a must. the second person may have to pull the casing out of the firewall from under the hood. On second thought, take it to the tranny shop. They can probably do it blindfolded. JohnD

I think you mean polarizing the voltage regulator Bruce. This should only have to be done once, upon installation, then I don't think that has to be done again regardless of disconnecting the battery. JohnD

It's worse than you think. I have consistently used Fram filters, although I think I'm going to switch to the NAPA brand soon, because of all the bad reputation they have been getting here and elsewhere. JD

I remember my Dad's 50 Buick from when I was small. I have never owned one. But if I recall the latches are inside the car with metal sheathed cables to the latches under the hood? If so, I'd soak those metal sheathed cables in PB Blaster, a serious ust penetrant ( much better than WD40 ) You probably need to soak them for a week or so, a little on there each day to really get it through. Then look for a return spring on the handles too. Something has to pull the latch back into place. I also looked at the wiring diagram for my 56, It shows a black wire to the starter solenoid, which could easily be incorrectly angled and touching the battery cable. I don't think it is the other small wire on there. Usually if that one is touching the battery cable the car won't shut off after it starts. Are you removing the battery cables at the end of use to prevent electrical shorts and draindown from this situation? If not, I most certainly would, till you get this straightened out. JD

Thanks for the explanation Willie. I suppose the real fix for this is reboring the cylinders? JohnD

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> To remove reveal molding, remove garnish molding and upper section of glass run channel: then remove attaching screws and carefully lower molding and remove from door. To install, reverse removal procedure. </div></div> Sounds simple to me... <span style="font-style: italic">Yea!!! Right!!!</span>

I was noticing the clear view of the road as well... Is that second picture for real? With the Buick name on the front? That looked like a high end toy for the time period... What great pictures... Leave it to you to fine em Mr. Earl... Did you find any 54's? JohnD

Saw you on the Travel Channels show on Muscle cars. From the angle of the camera looks like you kicked that Corvette's butt? My wife and I were proud of you... Keep up the great work. JohnD

Hey Old Tank, can you describe what you mean by shimming the upper ring? JohnD

You're welcome. Let us know what you find. Are you new to these forum pages as well as the car?

Looking for a needle in a haystack. Does anyone have a factory CD player for a 1993 Buick Regal? Please e mail offline at jld1972@empireone.net

I don't think you have a starter switch problem. The starter should not engage if the key is in the off or lock position. The fact that the starter DOES engage shows you the carb switch is okay. I'd look at the wires on the starter. There should be the battery cable and two smaller wires. I suspect one of these smaller wires is touching the battery cable. JohnD

I hope Tommy 1927 doesn't see this.... Ran both cars today, and the curse has passed me by ( for now). Might have something to do with the bug guts all over the windshields? JD

Note the options, and see the first post above.

another one

Another

Finally have some pictures

Here's some thoughts: I try to stick with a brand of oil once I have a car. On the sweetheart's 93 Regal 3800 ( which I bought new), we always have used Penzoil brand and Fram filters. It currently has 144K and still feels strong. These cars have oil pressure guages, and this car consistently has more than 60 lbs when it is cold and continuously runs at over 45 lbs of pressure when warm. By way of comparison, one of my sods bought a 93 Regal GS with the same engine, but I don't know the cars history. I do know he bought it with less than 70K and right now is just over 100K. And my other son just bought a 94 Regal GS with the 3800 at 99K. Again we don't know the prior owners and it's history, but both of those cars consistently run at 40 lbs of pressure. So I guess oil brand may have some importance, but not significant importance. I think it is much more important to maintain a schedule for oil changes that is appropriate to the use the car gets. And always change the oil filter too. JohnD

Wow!!! You're right Centurion... That is some bid history. I always liked wagons, and these 57's are real works of art ( IMHO) and this one being a California car seems to be beautiful. Sure wish I could afford it myself... JohnD 3757

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> put the clutch in, crank it, and it tends to start. ... once the clutch was in and i shifted into third, everything was fine... </div></div> I would suspect that your car has a dirty connection where the battery negative cable is attached to the frame. On a 56, the negative cable is attached to the motor mount, on the frame side. Don't know where it's attached on your 52, but I suspect the clutch movements cause the motor to rock thus cleaning small bits of this connection which causes things to work better for a short time. I was involved with an MG once. Had the slow starting symptoms like you. One day trying to get it going I accidentally leaned on the manual choke cable and got burned. We realized that that choke cable was doubling as the engine to body ground strap. And it just wasn't big enough. Luckilly the parts car we had still had them, and this cured the problem. JohnD 3757

Is this the 4 door Riviera ( ie: Hardtop) or the Sedan? JohnD

Hoy Boy!!! Me thinks I'll should wait till next week to warm up my Buicks. Can't afford these troubles. JohnD 3757

Hoy Boy!!! Pics of things to come I'm fraid!! But we gotta get through this to get to the next driving season. Hand in there Norb. JohnD

$180.00 You can buy a lot of vacuum hose and a rebuilt fuel pump for this. Sorry... I couldn't resist JohnD

Greg, Welcome to the wonderful world of tools... And congratulations on "making your bones" off the old girl. Remember these few words of wisdom. * If you don't have one, get a manual. Even a reprint is better than nothing. * If you don't have the right tool, get one. Nothing hurts worse than a twelve point closed end wrench stripping the edges off a six point rusted on bolt. * Use a suitable penetrating oil on rusted nuts and even on rusted bolts. I recommend PB Blaster for every time you need to do a job, and multiple applications over the span of a week before trying to turn a rusted nut. * Lastly, stand your ground. If a future mechanic wants to do something other than what you want on the car, drive away. Keep your car true to your vision for it, so it will always be "your" 53 Special. Hope to see you and your car at some of the upcoming National shows...or in pics you post on this site... JohnD