JohnD1956

What a topic!!! The blackhawk? The velite? the Lacrosse? Heres two thoughts for you. 1) GM is making a loud statement each day they delay the introduction of anything new. The Lacrosse looks like an Impala, two years later, The Terrazo looks like a Venture 4 years later, and the Velite will be nothing more than a warmed over Solistis. Every time Buick is lagging behind the others. This is not new for Buick lately. The Rendevous followed the Aztec and the Ranier follows the Trailblazer, interestingly being introduced just as gasoline prices reach record highs and SUV's are taking a beating. That loud statement I hear is the last person heaving a heavy sigh leaving buick and turning off the lights on the way out. #2) Even if these cars were cutting edge new, who do they really think can afford to buy them? Kids leave college today with huge loans to repay and very few find jobs with the outstanding pay in their field. Those who don't go to college can't make enough money to drive to the poor house waiting tables or flipping burgers at the fast food houses. Meanwhile the price of Buick cars continues to go through the ceiling! The Ranier is over 40K, The Rendevous is likewise in the high 30's and the Lacrosse is scheduled to be up in the $35K range as well. Meanwhile Chrysler is producing cars that look good, reflect cutting edge design trends, appear to be reliable, and are selling in the $20K range. Fella's and gals, hang onto your Buick Classics. When Buick pulls down the closed sign like Oldsmobile maybe our cars will appreciate faster. Buick people, WAKE UP!!! Tons of people drool over the Buick Classics! Get with the program and beat those Chrysler/Ford engineers like we know you can! And kick those GM Big wigs in the butt and take our piece of the American car market TODAY, not in 3 to 4 years from now while your in Bankruptcy Court. Whew!!! I feel a lot better now. John d BCA 3787

I have regretfully decided to try and sell my 69 Electra 2 door Limited. This car needs total restoration, But I am pricing it fairly. Here's what's been replaced in the last 8 years: all shocks and springs Water pump timing chain and gear tires disc brake pads Battery parking brake cables. Dual exhaust Here's what's been rebuilt in that same time period: Radiator recored front calipers rebuilt carburator rebuilt Here's what needs to be done: Drivers door should be replaced ( I have a rust free one from Desert dog auto parts that goes with the car) Bottom of both front fenders needs to be repaired Lower rear extension on drivers side needs to be replaced Seam over the wheel opening on the passengers side needs to be repaired Drivers side front floor pan needs a patch. Interior and paint, and a front windshield (Not broken, just pitted badly) Antenna should be replaced. Dash board surround should be replaced ( I have an uncut one that goes with the car) Exhaust manifolds should be replaced ( yes, I have an excellent pair that goes too) Bumpers need to be rechromed Here's the list of factory options: Front cornering lights 4 piston caliper disc brakes dual exhaust Posi rear Power windows,door locks, trunk release Tilt wheel with Cruise control Auto temp A/C Mirror map light split bench seat, six way power both sides. AM/FM stereo radio There may be more options but these are the major ones. Here's what doesn't work: Clock A/C and interior temp control Speakers ( rear window leaked on them) Make no mistake, this car needs either total restoration or can be dressed up for a daily driver. It has 130K on it. The original 430 runs excellent when it is used every day, but it does run too warm (200-215 degrees on a 180 thermostat) after 30 minutes at highway speeds. Running the heater will keep it at this temperature for at least 2 hours(I think the passenger side exhaust manifold is partially blocked and causing this). I have had it off the road for two years now and a brake line has burst. This was a Colorado car which I really love, but I just have too many projects. I'm asking $1,000 for the car as is. I also have a set of the 69 factory road wheels for the disc brakes. I will let these go with the car for an additional $300. Otherwise I'll just keep these for whatever future project comes along. I can be reached at JLD1972@empireone.net. I should be able to snap some digital pictures this weekend for serious inquiries only. I have no transportation available. Thanks for the read John D BCA 3787 ROA 10184

I'm interested. Please send the pics. If you want , you can send them offsite to jld1972@empireone.net

The 95 control module is definitely different in face value. But that may be a mask and the wires and connectors may be the same. However, you should go to the Riviera Owners Association web site. There was just someone posting on their e-mail forum about repairing one of these by changing a relay or switch that was inside the HVAC duct. I can tell you that my 95 had a situation where the passenger side would not adjust the temperature. The heat was on regardless of the A/C or the temperature. The Drivers side would get ice cold with the A/C or blazing hot with the heat, but the passengers side was hot all the time. I took out the glove compartment and found there was a small electric motor on the passengers side of the main heat duct. I was able to disconnect the wires, and remove this motor ( two screws hold it on and it just slips over the shaft). I took the motor apart, and spun the gears manually. Nothing looked dirty or stuck in here. I also put a pair of small vice grips on this shaft into the heat duct and manually rotated the shaft back and forth, which did result in the air temp changes as needed. I reinstalled the motor and it's worked just fine for two years now. I would give this a try as you have nothing to lose. John d 3757

The last Bugle had an ad from Bill Neary BCA 9100. He advertises 58 roadmaster trim and front/rear bumpers. E mail me off-line if you want his number, but the ad is on page 26, second classified from the bottom. John d 3757 jld1972@empireone.net

Check with the members on this list. I know one of the members was starting his business on 1st generation Rivieras. riviera-l@redeemer.on.ca John d 3757

This switch is amazingly simple. It is a tube, with a set of contacts on a carrier inside pushed AWAY from the contacts where the wires are by a spring. On my 56, when the engine is off, the ball rests on the throttle shaft. When energized, and you step on the pedal, the throttle shaft which has a high spot on it, rotates, and pushes the ball into the carrier for the contacts. This in turn compresses the spring and allows the contacts on the carrier to connect with the contacts on the inside of the wires, thus completing the circuit. Once the engine starts the vacuum in the carb is routed to a port on the switch and the ball is pulled off the throttle shaft so subsequent rotation of the shaft does not result in pressure on the contact carrier. The manual says there is a secondary failsafe to prevent the starter from energizing even if the ball is not drawn off. I have a hard time understanding it but it relates to the solenoid I think. Something about the charging circuit. When the car is off the energy flows one way to the starter. When the engine is running and the generator is generating, the power flows a different way and the starter solenoid cannot be energized. Seems to work. If you are having problems with this switch I recommend removal, and a thorough wipe down inside with rubbing alcohol on cotton swabs. I even polished the innards with super fine steel wool, and then blew everything off really well. Then reassembly WITHOUT any lubrication. That's what my manual says, and my switch is still working well after 50 years.

This may be totally off the wall, but does this engine have a bad harmonic balancer. I could swear ( as a matter of fact I did) that I heard 56 was the first year for harmonic balancers, but I have no idea is that is true. Anyway, the balancer on my 56 spun on the crankshaft over a period of time. The key just cut the inside of the balancer's shaft and it spun about one full inch at the keyway. As a result, the timing marks were way off. I finally found out about the balancer last year and put on a replacement. The car still ran terrible till I redid the timing which instead of being 5 degrees BEFORE TDC was close to 7 degrees AFTER TDC. Also, I had a bad hesitation on starts which seemed to disappear when I put some marvel mystery oil on the points breaker plate and then dropped somemore on the centrifugal advance weights. There is a small hole in the breaker plate which was marked as an "oil" hole. I've had the car since 1975 and didn't know about that. If it's not one of the many ideas posted already, I'd suspect a jumped timing chain. I know the 56 used metal gears on both ends but I put on a new set and chain when I did the balancer and now the old girl runs like a charm. The old ones may still be good, I don't know. I just figured after 50 years, we got our money's worth out of em.

I just saw this post. What do you meand daily driver quality? do you have any pictures? How much are you asking? Where does it need to be shipped from? Do you have some other parts? John D

Start with the most basic question; Do you like the car enough to stick with it? Electra T types are really nice cars and according to the standard catalog of Buicks, somewhat rare at 1,800 some odd produced. Still, 200K is 200K. Is it really worth this money? If so, rest assured it most likely needed the timing chain, which was undoubtedly the largest expense of the repairs you already did. Second be assured that you have the better of the engines available, in that 88 was the cut off year for the 3.8 v6 which was replaced by the 3800 v6, two mostly different engines. Next I agree with NTX5467. The service engine light most likely came back on when the car died. As long as the battery is holding out, the codes are in the computer. You'll need a readout. Before doing that however, have the fuel pressure checked. The car does not need to run for this. If there are no codes, and it does appear to be the fuel injectors, I can report that changing the whole fuel rail and the injectors frrom a salvage car yard is not all that difficult nor expensive. Still 200K is 200K. Depending on your location you could have a broken fuel line? or a burnt out fuel pump? or, more related to the timing chain, a bad crank shaft sensor, or cam shaft sensor. Or even just so much as a broken electrical connection to the same. What I can tell you is on a 3.8 engine once, after replacing the timing chain, and failing to install a new cam shaft magnet, the old magnet fell apart within a few revolutions of the engine. Not suspecting that at all we tried all types of trouble shooting. Several days worth of head scratching later we called in the big guns, who determined the problem and got it running. Unfortunately the 150K engine only ran another month and spun a rod bearing. But that was the 3.8, not the 3800. I personally know of three 3800's that each have 180K on them and seem like they can put in another 60 to 70K without breaking a sweat. Also on that car with the 3.8 my son got an engine out of a junker with 170K for $300.00 and drove the car almost another two full years with minimal repair, till it also died one day. His electra t type was not worth the repairs and he sent it packing with close to 300 K on the body and well over 200 K on the engine. God! I love them Buicks!!! John D BCA 3757 Next, I agree with

I totally agree with you both. I took my 56 from Wappingers Falls NY to Flint in 75. I really didn't worry about the car, just running out of gas as I did not have a working guage then. What a great road trip. Then we took it to Sandusky in 81, another great memorable time for us and our kids. Then I didn't have much time for it and I hardly drove it over the next 22 years, till the Centenial Celebration. Luckilly I did keep up with some things over the years, including a valve job when I found 2 burnt valves. So I started in January of 03 trying to ensure it's roadworthiness. I had a persistent intermittent knocking noise. Not like bearings but like a flapping tire tread. I had a leaky gas tank. I had rough starting, bad battery, slow wipers, and leaks galore. Plus a slight overheating problem. Nothing the heater fan couldn't take care of. But I had relatively new tires, shocks, a tight front end, all recent brake flex lines and a lot of confidence in the car. Before I left for Flint, I had a new fuel pump, resealed gas tank, recored radiator, repaired fuel guage sender, new tailpipes, new rear springs, new battery, and several replaced brake lines. I still had hard starting, and that lousy knock, but I pulled pushed and tried everything I could to find that noise, and finally figured I take the chance. We splurged on a set of new Wheel Vintiques Wire wheels, even though most of the car needs paint and my interior is shot, I just wanted something extra for the car while I had some money. Well, the trip turned out to be great. Drove out with the Boston-Flint caravan, and got there with no problems. While there had a flat on Thursday AM. Spokes leaking. A nice tire company across the street from the hotel set me up with a tube installed for $12.00. I bought three more tubes before I left. Still had the overheating, rough idle, and intermittent knock, but what a great time anyhow. On the way back we took a side trip to Guy Bennetts in Wayland NY. While traveling there I noticed a rougher ride than usual. But drove on. The next morning before going to Guy's, I heard a distinct knock in the engine compartment on a start up. Had some loose feel to the water pump bearing, so while at Guys I asked them to check the pump and the froint wheel bearings. Sure enough, I needed both. Had to rent a car to get back home from there. While it was there two more tires went flat. So I asked them to install the three tubes that were in the trunk as well. When we went back two weeks later to pick it up, Guy confided that he didn't know how I could drive the thing what with that rough idle and all. But I guess I was just used to it after putzing around for the last 22 years. So I got home and great guys at Wheel Vintiques were most accomodating. Send the wheels back and we'll reseal them. Off they went, back to steel wheels for now. I still had that stinking rough idle, the intermittent knock and slight overheating. So I decided to run the engine without the belts to see if it was the generator or the power steering pump causing that knock. Thats when I found the bad harmonic balancer, After the 1,200 miles I just drove. Found a used balancer from Ken at Wheat belt auto supply and had it shipped to Damper Doc in California for a rebuild. I was certain this was my knock. For good measure I put in a new timing chain and gears as well. Meanwhile apparently some debris had circulated in the engine and managed to clog the tops of my radiator cores, so that went back to the shop for cleaning. I got one of the radiator hose filters from Tony Gentlicore in Australia to filter any other particles in the coolant system. Got it all back together this spring and took it for a ride, but still had that flippin knock, still had lousy idle, and still had slight overheating. I had a spare carb rebuilt by Tom Toal in Ontario NY ( great Carb man who used to work for Rochester products when these things were enginered and built). Unfortunately when he shipped it back to me via the US PO, they decided to beat the box to a pulp and broke my starter switch. Even though the one on the car worked 99% of the time I did have some problems once in a while. So I swapped the switches and cleaned it inside as best I could. Got her going okay, and it felt much stronger. Then I checked the timing and found out it was at least 5 degrees PAST TDC, when it's supposed to be 5 degrees before TCD. ( probably due to the bad harmonic balancer which had spun about one inch past the keyway) That seems to have taken care of the overheating, and the rough idle is gone, but the rough idle was really masking hesitation on acceleration and I still had the knock. Finally, I dropped some marvel mystery oil pask the breaker plate onto the centrifugal advance unit. That seemed to take care of the hesitation and I drove the car for several mile and didn't hear the knock. And all this is to say, the trip was great, the car is great, the car is reliable, and very forgiving. I think the Buick Family is one of the best group of people this side of heaven, and I can't thank all the people who I've relied upon enough for all their help. I say Buicks were built to be driven and I plan to drive mine a lot more after all this.

Does anyone have a service manual for these cars that they don't need anymore, and are willing to sell? Please e mail me off line at jld1972@empireone. Thanks for your consideration.

I would love to have a factory unit. I know you can't figure a price till it's removed, and I don't know if I can afford it till you give me a price. As for removal, consider this. My factory manual says that in 56, Buick shipped complete units to dealers for installation. The units were charged before shipping. So it sounds like everything under the hood can be unbolted from the firewall, and leave everything connected. I know my radiator support is already cut for where the lines go through to the condensor, and they are accessed by just removing the top bar of the radiator support. This also means I probably would not need the heater box inside. I understand that the evaporator simply bolts onto the firewall under the hood where it replaces the vent unit that has the heater fan attached. I would need the AC/heat control from under the dash, and I would only need the center vent from the top of the dash, which also should unbolt. Did I understand that you are on the East coast? Maybe I could drive down from Albany to retrieve the parts and assist in the disassembly? John D

I'll post a picture of the 56 in a few days. While it needs paint, I want to put my Wire wheels back on first. Perhaps you saw it in Flint last summer anyway. The Yellow one with the black top. I had the crochet white bed spreads on the seats. And I had the Wheel vintiques kelsey hayes style wires on it. I parked it in the back row just in front of the music hall building with the rest of the 56 and 7's. Please tell me about the A/C set up on that century? Is it factory equipment, complete, and have you thought about selling it? John D

Do you still have this car available? Is it automatic, or standard shift? 2.5 motor? Color combo?

The heli-coils are in. It went pretty well, after mounting the old pump so I could use it as a guide, the 17/64 drill bit was so long I had the back of the drill against the condensor core. But after drilling, I even put the tap through the pump into the tabs on the timing chain cover, then the coils went right in. Tomorrow I hope to put it all back together.

Mr. Earl. I love what you've done with your place. Those 54's are incredible. I remember seeing the 54 Roadmaster Convertible at the National meet in Rochester NY. IT was yellow and beautiful but the coolest feature to me was the frameless vent windows. Those things looked so neat. What a car!!! Can't wait to see what you do with the restoration process. But if I was you, I'd hold onto everyone of those Roadmasters. I felt a kinship to you when you said your top list of 60's favorites included the 68/69 Skylark. I bought a 69 GS 400 convertible last September. Unlike you I could not see the GS in the rear view mirror as I had to rent a U-haul truck and trailer to bring the girl home, this being a full story in itself. But the coup-de-grace is it 's a 27K original car. And I know what you mean about how it runs and drives!!!! John D 1956

What a great idea! You are to be commended!!! Hats off to all who made that tour. My wife and I toured in with the Boston to Flint tour, and I think the drive over was definitely a major highlight of the meet. I hope we can do that again with the nationals over the next few years, especially if San Diego gets the nod for 2007. John and Linda De Fiore #3757

My son is interested in finding a solid Lesabre T type in this age range. Hopefully under 100K. Does anyone have any leads? Thanks for your help

Interesting question. I have no documentation on this, but I believe you can pull this swap off. The disc brakes on the 69 and older Buicks is the 4 piston caliper style ( like on corvettes) and I understand the spindles are different from that used in 70 and forward. Have you tried the 70 tech advisor from the BCA? Also you can try Tony Gentlicore at tony@mako.com.au in Australia. He is involved in a company there which has made some amazing parts for Buicks. One set up is a dics brake conversion for the earlier Riviera's which uses some standard GM disc brake parts. He is very knowledgeable and may have direct information on your planned swap.

Alright. Now we're fighting Chevys and Mopars!!! California here I come! Having a new 4 core radiator built for the GS as we speak. Damn the desert! The little lady will definitely expect to do Vegas if we drive that close anyway.

Thanks for the replies. I am thinking heli coils are the correct answer. Just investigated that today. They look rather simple, as long as you get the hole straight.

Right you are John. I say Fight Chevy's, and Mopars, not other BCA members. BTW, Im ready to try a road trip to California. I thought Flint was way too close from Albany NY. John D

Okay, I've had enough of these cars that I should know by now, but does anyone have any ideas on how to get those smaller bolts out after they snap off? I tried drilling them and using an easy out, but the easy out snapped off inside one of them. I then had to use a carbide tipped bit and a rotary drill to get the easy out, out, and then I drilled clear through both. I soaked in pb blaster for two days but still no luck. I'm just about ready to drill these as big as the openings on the pump and then put a longer bolt and nut on em. Luckilly they are both on the top side and I could actually do that. But I'm looking for other ideas so as to keep it stock in appearance. All ideas are appreciated. Thank you John D

Please let me know how you make out. I now have two 69's to do this on.