kenmatthews

Hehehe...my mistake on the drawing. I was at work and was going from memory. So it does have the flange at the top so I'll give it a good whack and see what happens. Rebuilt engine going well...much smoother! Here's some interesting stats for you. It took me 2.5hrs to swap out wheel cylinder on L-side and only 45 min on the R-side! Dohhh!!

I was replacing my brake cylinder on driver side up front and ran across a piece I couldn't shake loose. It grabs the end of the brake line not threaded into the wheel cylinder and holds in place. There is a bracket held onto the chassis with a single 1/2in bolt and then a U-shape piece that I couldn't figure out how to take off. Anyone know how? I took U-shape/bracket off chassis and studied up close. Shoving a flathead screwdriver and prying between hose and the U contour gave me a little clearance but that's it. ANy thoughts on how to pry it off?

Marc, You'll probably not come close to it, but on US29 headed southbound from I-66, there is a junkyard called Leon's Salvage. I don't have any contact info but he has a large lot. KEN

Thanks Bruce. No problems with the master cylinder. There was air in the lines and I got it out...with only marginal improvements. Got wheel cylinders and brake hoses on order. It's high time I changed them out anyway. K

Hey there SIXPACK, AT this point, I'm willing to try bleeding in the order you mention. You know, I went by the shop manual which says to bleed starting closest to master cylinder to get the air out there first and then work towards the back. My master cylinder happens to be under my foot accessible through the floorboard. In the next couple of days I'll do the adjustment. I seem to remember there's a star nut that you turn to move the brakes in or out...right? We probably have the same setup btwn 51 and 55.

This weekend my dad and I bled brakes on my 55 Super (orig. brake system- no PB). The reason is most of the power to stop the sled is the last few inches of travel close to the floorboard. If I let off and pump a little, I get better breaking higher up. So I bled each cylinder in this order (FL, FR, LR, RR). I tested and didn't get any improvements. Could it be a matter of adjusting the brake clearance on the pads rather than bleeding? At least I can knock bleeding off my TO DO list.

We finally got it off. Used a Dremel tool and cut the nut perpendicular to the threads. As we cut the spread apart enough to take off with an impact wrench and the threads are still good. Important so my buddy can get his core charge back! Thanks all!!

I have a friend who is looking for a nut splitter to fit 1-5/16in. nut. After checking JEGS and Eastwood, no luck. Already tried the local NAPA without any luck. Closest size we could find is 1-1/8 in. Anybody have any suggestions out there? THanks!

Just wondering if there are other Buick owners within stone's throw. Would be great to meet some folks in the immediate area.

Thanks for the advice Willie. The master cylinder is only 3 yrs old...forgot to mention that. I may have more questions as I get deeper into this project. But I have some direction to move forward with for now.

Well now that my car sat for 1 yr+ I've been going through and checking everything that needs attention. The brake system seems to be more mushy now than before. I've inspected each rotor and the brake shoes themselves look good. I also didn't see any signs of worn/rotting brake line that connect to steel lines. I plan on bleeding the brake lines in the next few days. Is there anything else I should give some attention to? Do I need any special tools if I decide to change/rebuild the wheel cylinders? Thanks guys.

Mark...just wanted to get back with you. The guy I mentioned in above post in MD has sold his cadillac limo and hearse. Looks like your trip was fruitful though...best of luck to you. K

Mark, I know a guy with extra cadillacs and buicks in Maryland (eastern shore). In the collection, I know he has at least one caddy limo that is either 49 or 51. I'll try calling you in case you don't have access to email during the next couple of days.

Hey Heine, See Judd's post on a different forum below. In case you can only find dual-exhaust headers... 56 dual exhaust manifolds will work but you'll have to cut holes in the drivers side frame like on a 56 for the pipes. I think there are issues with the brake cylinder also but I know others have converted a 55 to duals so it can be done. An upgrade for a 55 322 would be a 56 4 barrel 322 they have the highest compression of any 322, the biggest valves, the highest lift longest durration cam, and the most free flowing heads.

Thanks I'll put in on my TO DO list for the wknd. One interesting thing is I notice a rough hum somewhere around 45mph and goes away once I reach beyond about 55mph. Speedo doesn't work so I'm guessing based on my surroundings. Above and below this range the sound goes away but if I'm on the highway and come down into the range, it sounds right away. I part suspect it's the new engine rebuild still breaking in (?). I'm coming up on 500 miles.