JohnD1956

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Go to the V8 site. There is someone selling a 66 GS which fits your requirements nicely. claims to have been using it for a daily driver. JohnD http://www.v8buick.com/

I thought my 56 rear main seal was leaking but found out it was leaking from the oil filter instead. Up against the block side, dripping like crazy and flowing down the back of the oil pan. May not be the problem, but if you've had a recent rebuild, I'd check on that. Also, I forgot where I saw it, but apparently the oil filter housing has a stamped steel gasket originally? Did the rebuilder use one of those in this location? JohnD 3757

What? No hood insulation springs? I thought they were available last year along with the lifetime guarantee oil change supplement, which only costs $799.00 and makes any engine oil last for 150,000 miles. Considering the increases in the price per barrel this year, we could use that stuff again!!! JohnD

Will those whole cars include the trees? I can't believe I missed a pair of J bars, and bumperettes too. I feel so stupid!!! Oh well, Merry Christmas. JohnD

Hey Mr.Earl Any chance of checking those 56's for rear "J" bars on the bumpers? They are probably gone, but... Also I need some new top bumperettes for my Super. I'm thinking these must come from the Super or Roadmaster.

I would look towards the oil pressure guage hook up in the block. Under a hard run, maybe the pressure is pushing oil through a loose fitting there? Here's a scary thought for you. My 95 Riv started to drop oil which I never even saw. At an idle, no problem. Bring it up to 1500 RPM and it was pouring out, straight down on the road. It was coming from the gasket between the timing chain cover and the block. The dealer claimed the original gaskets were re-worked to provide reinforcement in this area. If during your rebuild you went with a higher pressure in the pump, you may have blown this gasket too. Take that look when the engine is idling faster. that may make the leak more visible. JohnD 3757

I have a 95 Riv and belong to the Riviera Owners Association. All the owners over there advocate changing the oil in the Supercharger before 100K, but funny thing is, some of them still seem to go anyway. In my case I have 111K on the original Scharger. It is still quiet although I'm sorta on egg shells with it, expecting it to go bad. But last summer the intake gasket went bad, and I took it apart for that job. In the process ,observation showed the inside of the Scharger casing coated with sticky thick oil. The EGR valve dumps right into the Scharger intake, behind the throttle body. As a matter of fact I was even having trouble with the throttle sticking upon start up. So I got a few cans of carb cleaner and sprayed away. Hit every surface till what I could see was clean to the metal. Also while I had it out, I tipped it on the belt end, removed the drain plug and let er drip out. Now, the 2 times I checked the unit before this, the oil was always at the top ( basically up to the bottom of the drain plug) but not that much oil came out. I think I put most of one bottle of Scharger oil back in. When it took me longer than expected to finish this job, the Scharger had been sitting about 2 weeks, and I could barely turn it by hand. But it did turn. When I started the car, the Scharger didn't turn at all. I turned it off, removed the belt and rocked it back and forth, . When I could get a full rotation I put the belt back on and everything was smooth. I concluded the carb cleaner probably did not hit the back wall of the SCharger insides, and probably sludged up the works. But once it got going, everything was great. Of course that is the 95 SCharger, which is different than the one you are planning on getting. Here's a few more things to watch for. Seems everyone has had problems with missing under load. Usually plugs and wires first. But mine had a plastic nipple for the manifold to water pump by-pass hose. Naturally it snapped off when I was pushing the wires through that area. The replacement is metal. Then the misses came back. The shop finally replaced the main processor, not because any codes showed, but because they could find nothing else, and this seemed to fix the problem. Then when changing the intake gasket, I had some dry rotted vacuum hose connectors. Probably from the heat. This car gets hot and stays hot for quite a while, unlike the wifes 93 Regal with the same 3800. That one will cool off at idle in 30 minutes. So that fixed the miss for a while, but now it's back. Now I'm figuring a tranny fluid change as it has never been done and the miss is at 45 miles per hour while the engine is loafing in overdrive. Drop it into 3rd gear and the miss disappears at the same speed. So the short of it is: Keep an eye on the intake manifold for antifreeze leaks, Change the Scharger oil if possible ( they said a turkey baster worked good for this by the way)or at least keep it topped off. Get the oil from GM shop. I think it was $7.00 per bottle, although that's probably equivalent to $30.00 per quart. Consider some remediation for internal cleaning of the SCharger, and enjoy the pants out of that thing. I think there's nothing like the feel of that Scharger kicking in. I think the car could fly if it had wings... JohnD

Bquick What is that PX code yo referred to in the first post? "And did not know to check for "PX" 3.91 Code!" I'd like to check on mine. Thanks JohnD 3757

What is this 3.91 code? and where do you find it, on the body plate?

I know they advertise in Hemmings, but try Damperdoc@aol.com I'm pretty sure that's it. John D

I recommend the services of Damper Doc. I got one from Ken Reeves for my 56, had it shipped to Damper Doc and they rebuilt it no problem.

Tired of the clutch?!?!? Oh no, is this a chance for a 4 speed car??? JohnD

While physically it is not impossible, I'd like to know how you get past State inspection rules? Maybe it's just New York State, but part of the inspection process here is supposed to be a visual inspection that all the original polution apparatus is there, and hooked up. Since the Olds motor uses the air bypass system, how would you accomplish this on a Buick 350? Also, I think you need to be really careful of what year motor you plan to use. My 78 Electra with the Buick 350 was every bit as dead as the subsequent 84 electra wagon ( with the 307) I had. I think you have to make sure you have a Buick 350 from 72 or older. Although not an Olds fan, isn't it almost a bolt in operation to drop the Olds 403 in there? I never had one but I heard they were very gutsy. JohnD 3757 3757

I'm not sure what year car you have, but on a 78 Electra I used to have, I changed the switch in the dashboard and fixed this. On an 84 Electra wagon I had, I replaced the wiper motor and washer pump and fixed this. I'd go for the wiper motor washer pump first. I think that is what goes wrong most often. JohnD

Ha! There you go Mr Earl... Even a Roadmaster... Hey Centurion, what do you have up your sleeve for 56's??? JohnD

You 59' owners are just blessed!!! Those cars are so beautiful...and unique... and so screaming <span style="font-style: italic">BUICK</span>. Great cars, and great pictures... thanks for sharing. JohnD

Is that cable screwed on under the dash? I believe my 69's have the spring loaded clip that hold the cable casing to the back of the speedometer head. It's not really tricky to undo, just reach up to the cable, follow it to the head, and then push towards the head to release the springs. Of course, this is one of those jobs where having a second person is almost a must. the second person may have to pull the casing out of the firewall from under the hood. On second thought, take it to the tranny shop. They can probably do it blindfolded. JohnD

I think you mean polarizing the voltage regulator Bruce. This should only have to be done once, upon installation, then I don't think that has to be done again regardless of disconnecting the battery. JohnD

It's worse than you think. I have consistently used Fram filters, although I think I'm going to switch to the NAPA brand soon, because of all the bad reputation they have been getting here and elsewhere. JD

I remember my Dad's 50 Buick from when I was small. I have never owned one. But if I recall the latches are inside the car with metal sheathed cables to the latches under the hood? If so, I'd soak those metal sheathed cables in PB Blaster, a serious ust penetrant ( much better than WD40 ) You probably need to soak them for a week or so, a little on there each day to really get it through. Then look for a return spring on the handles too. Something has to pull the latch back into place. I also looked at the wiring diagram for my 56, It shows a black wire to the starter solenoid, which could easily be incorrectly angled and touching the battery cable. I don't think it is the other small wire on there. Usually if that one is touching the battery cable the car won't shut off after it starts. Are you removing the battery cables at the end of use to prevent electrical shorts and draindown from this situation? If not, I most certainly would, till you get this straightened out. JD

Thanks for the explanation Willie. I suppose the real fix for this is reboring the cylinders? JohnD

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> To remove reveal molding, remove garnish molding and upper section of glass run channel: then remove attaching screws and carefully lower molding and remove from door. To install, reverse removal procedure. </div></div> Sounds simple to me... <span style="font-style: italic">Yea!!! Right!!!</span>

I was noticing the clear view of the road as well... Is that second picture for real? With the Buick name on the front? That looked like a high end toy for the time period... What great pictures... Leave it to you to fine em Mr. Earl... Did you find any 54's? JohnD

Saw you on the Travel Channels show on Muscle cars. From the angle of the camera looks like you kicked that Corvette's butt? My wife and I were proud of you... Keep up the great work. JohnD