JohnD1956
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Posts posted by JohnD1956
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First off, welcome to the Forum and welcome to the Buick Club.
Now the bad news. I do not believe you can use either the 1964 300 or the 64 401 with the existing transmission. While there may be an adaptor available I have not heard of one being advertised.
Also note, if you change to the 401 with a newer transmission you'll need to change the rear axle which is doable, but a lot of work. The original 56 setup is a "Torque-Tube" driveline, also known as a closed drive line. The rear axle is bolted to the torque tube and is not flexible like an open driveshaft. The driveshaft is inside the torque tube and the U joint is actually inside the rear housing of the transmission.
The rear axle is held in place by the rear shocks and the cross bar behind the rear end, also known as the Panhard bar. There are no trailing arms.
Virtually every other open rearend requires trailing arms for attachment. So, to put in a new rear axle you'll need to weld in braces to hold trailing arms.
This has been done by many, but it will take an experienced person to complete the work.
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Glenn, the bottom of that body looks VERY solid.
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I don't know for certain but I would think a roller on those pins would cause extra friction. If you had a roller then it might hit both sides of the channel while in motion and which way would it roll? I'd be interested to see what the channel this goes into looks like, and I would think the pin and one washer goes inside the channel, while the other washer rides on the outside of it, or maybe just the pin head goes inside?
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Sorry I can't help Pete. I won't be able to be there either.
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This sounds like a good program. If it starts in 2011- 2012, then the first time the award would be made is for the 2013 National? Or the 2012 National?
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I bought a new A6 style compressor for my 69 Buick from my local NAPA. It came with directions saying the compressor is built for the 4 Seasons Company. But it is new, not rebuilt.
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when I tried to start the car, the starter continuously engaged as the car started, then stalled, cranked and clickkkkkkk clickkkkkkk, cranked and started up. Once it was started, I let it idle in the dirveway for 10 minutes...smooth idle, did not shut down or stall. Decided to take it for a test drive to see if it would stall. Ran fine. Drove for about 25 minutes / 10 miles around my neighborhood. Nothing. No stalling, no anything. Ran fine. My guess is there might have been some bad gas in the line or something.
Pulled into the driveway and turned the car off. Attempted to restart. Back to sounds of the car trying to start and run at the same time. then clickkk clickkkk then the cars started for 5 seconds, stalled. Tried starting it again, whrrr whrrr ZOOM - started. This time not so smooth, not really rough, but a little more up and down with the idle than before. Turned it off, then some desieling after turned off.
Took it out of the drive to back it in the garage, and then it stalled in the middle of the street when I shifted into reverse. Tried starting it again and same as before, like the starter is going. Then it started right up, backed it into the garage and there she sits.
I think it might be in the starting circuit somehow. It was very disconcerting to have the starter and the engine running at the same time for those few seconds. I don't think that is good for either of them. What would cause the starter to continuously run like that once the engine is started? I wonder if it is the starter? It is beginning to be like owning Christine...
Just checking the timeline of this problem:
Before you had this problem the car ran good on your rebuilt carb, then you pulled the carb, and replaced it and now you have all this problem. Is this right?
If so, I would try to install a new carb base gasket. Incorrect vacuum will impact the timing and idle. Vastly incorrect timing will impact the cooling. Hot valves and fast idle lead to diesling. That and the switch at the carb is supposed to break contact when vacuum pulls the ball bearing in the switch out of play.
Also, I would double check all vacuum hose fittings and any rubber components, going so far as to disconnect and block some lines with golf tees to see if you can isolate a faulty vacuum unit, like the wipers, wiper switch and powwer brake booster. I believe it does have vacuum wipers, correct?
Plus I would check your generator wires. The clicking from your starter would be from low voltage. Is your battery up to full charge level? Is your generator charging properly? When the car starts the output from the generator is supposed to act like a failsafe to prevent the starter from running. With lack of vacuum at start the switch, it would remain in play, but the generator should prevent the starter from continuing to run.
The only thing I can't figure out is how it ran fine for 25 minutes and 10 miles and then you start with the problems again? This type of thing is very frustrating.
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1949 Roadmaster, I wanted to ask what type of tires you have on the car, and how many miles on the. Today my work vehicle started howling while driving from the front tires, which are cupped and have 65K on them, and I was reminded of when my Father in Law changed an entire rear axle in his 70 Malibu Convertible, just to find out his recapped tires made the exact same noise with the replacement rear.
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If you saved the computer and wiring harness that accompanied the 91 motor and tranny then the swap would be less of a challenge. I believe you will want to check the drive axles for compatibility with the older drive line and suspension.
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I would test the carb base gasket. While running spray some WD 40 around the base and if the idle changes, you've found a vacuum leak.
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Have you checked all your vacuum lines?
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Anything can be done, if you can find decent parts. Remember, if your's rusted through, chances are the siblings had the same issue. You need to check the junkyards in the southern USA for solid parts.
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Wow, gotta remember that one. I'm glad you fixed it, and appreciate that you took the time to post the results.
As to the top, there should be adjustments. The service manual may not address the top but then the Body manual should. 1/2 inch is a long way off in one of these, and I suspect one of the bolts in the mechanism on that side has loosened and possibly fallen out.
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Amen!
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Cool
If I could only find a fity fo rag top at my budget price. Like the pigon talk, Cheep, Cheep, cheep...
Dandy Dave!I bet you could build one from scratch Dave.
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Gulp!!!
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Before removing the socket from the housing I'd try to disconnect the wire and then make sure the rear signal on that side does not flash. If the socket is bad the system thinks there's a light in there. If the problem is elsewhere, disconnecting the socket would result in no change
And if this is anything like the interior light housings on my convertible, the socket appears to be held in by the series of tabs on the socket being pressed onto the light housing. In this case replacing the socket may be difficult and you may want to try and find a new or better signal light housing alltogether.
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Good idea Barney. That plus a few more items makes a lot of sense. I know the damage has multiplied, but any word from Jerry yet as to his situation?
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Jerry, if you are on-line, please know we are grateful neither you, nor your family has been hurt, and for all in Texas, we send thoughts and prayers your way. We hope everyone is safe and able to avoid major losses. The weather in this Country sure seems freaky the last two years.
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If the front right signal light wire has steady power while the right rear is blinking, then there is a crossed wire somewhere. Usually the signals on the side with the non working bulb will light and stay on without blinking. So I sort of expect to see steady power with a bad bulb. But the rears should not be blinking if you have the front bulb out of the socket. If it is doing so, then the front signal wire is grounded somewhere.
I presume you checked inside the front socket for a broken connector spring? Also the insulation inside the socket may be deteriorated and the spring could be riding on the back of the socket shell. This seems to be a persistent problem with cigarette lighters too. the insulation cracks and the lead shorts blowing the fuse.
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Also take a good look at the positive battery cable. Internal corrosion can reduce power flow especially when hot.
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I'd be glad to take you up on that offer. I know these cars are great rides when they are hardtops. I'd be very interested to see what they are like with no roof.
BTW. any chance you can snap a few photos of any added structural supports they put in when convertibilizing it?
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Wonderful news! We'll still keep him in our prayers, and await the report where you take him for another ride in the 55...
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Sweet. Sounds like a good deal Bernie. Hoping for the best results...
If I could only find a fity fo rag top at my budget price. 
Dandy Dave!
My 1950 Buick takes a first
in Me and My Buick
Posted
How cool is That! This is a major accomplishment. congrats Scott!